Neo

STBs will only hold the front suspension in place. It will help a bit with steering response. If you want to deal with body roll, then you should look into sway bars. Get a set of Daizen sways. They give you MUCH better cornering response while retaining much of the stock ride feel. Contact Todd at TM Engineering to get a set.

Of course it is your car and you can do what you want with it. :) With that said, think about lowering it a little if you can. When you put on 20s, all that "metal" makes the car look like it is raised, similar to SUVs. It accentuates the gap. I am not as familiar with the LS but what is the OEM sizes for your rims and tires? Sorry. Just a little lazy to track down which years came with what tire and rim sizes. ;) :D

LOL. I think it is just more terminology. When we mod cars, we do all the above if necessary. It just depends on what we each call it. :)

I think we have different definitions of fender rolling. As far as I know, rolling a fender is not flaring the fenders out. Although it is sometimes a side effect, it is not the intention. When you SHAVE the fender lip, you cut it off (like sha4000 mentioned) so that you eliminate wheel/fender rub. When you ROLL the fender lip, you are bending the lip upwards and inwards, again to eliminate wheel/fender rub. If done right, the shape of the fender should not change enough to show a flaring effect. Here are a few pics to illustrate the bending of the fender lip: Sometimes heat is needed so that the bending process does not damage the paint. This is why (if structural integrity is not an issue) I prefer to shave. You just need to go back with a fine grit paper and use touch up paint to minimize (if not eliminate) rust issues.

I have no problems with 20s on an LS but it depends on the setup. You just CANNOT get away with 20s and no drop/mild kit. Although personal tastes vary, I agree that the rims in the pic NC211 posted do not fit the class of an LS. Plus, since the "spokes" are right up against the edge with no lip, the wheel looks even bigger. :(

Wait. The pics are of the NF or DF? Where are the rear wheels rubbing? The fender lip of the top of the wheel well? As for the engine weight, it should be a non-issue. I am not sure about the new V6 being used in the 06, but in the 98-05, the I6 was using a cast iron block while the V8 used an aluminum one. The two ended up weighing about the same. This is how many aftermarket suspension companies were able to offer one setup for the GS300/GS400/GS430.

20x9 +35 is going to be close in the front. I am looking at getting 20x9 +38 and your wheels are 3mm more outbound. You will need fender work. I am just unsure what it will take. You will need to roll the fenders and possibly run the camber slightly negative. You can also run stretched tires instead but ride quality will suffer a bit. The wheel will fit the rear just fine. As for the fender mods, if you look at the wheel well at the fenders, you will see a lip that is covered by a black plastic trim. When you shave the fender, you are cutting of parts (or all) of this lip to make space for the wheels. When you roll, you are (using different techniques/tools) to bend that lip up and in, again to make room for the wheels.

From the feedback I've read, the DF (lower of the two) do not ride very well. The NF (although less low) would be a better choice for those who don't want to lose too much comfort. DF + stretched tires? Wow. How is the ride quality compared to OEM (not compared to your other dumped cars ;))?

If you are doing 19x8.5 all around (or any size all around), you will be limited by the front wheelwell since that is smaller. For a safe conservative setup, +38 would be fine. If you go staggered with a 9.5 rear, +38 would be good there too. If a 10 rear, +42 - +44 would be OK. ← What do you think of these? http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?ta...Special=Pricing http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?ta...Special=Pricing What exactly does the "offset" mean? ← I am going for an aggressive look, I want to go +18 offset in the rear with a 20x10 wheel. Can this work on a 98 GS? ← Do a quick Google for wheel offset and you will get a slew of writeups on what offset means. ;) As for the practical answer related to your question, the lower the offset number, the farther the rim will stick out. The offsets you want will work but not without work. If you notice in the pics you posted, the tires are smaller than spec and you see the rim lip beyond the tire. This is how the wheel is able to move up and down without rubbing. If that car (and I think I know whose care that is ;)) had regular tires, there would be problems. If you are going for this VIP look, then all the numbers I am familiar with goes out the door since the guys that do this will tweak their setup (tire spec, roll/shave, camber) until it works. It may look cool to some but it will not be optimal for daily street driving. The ride quality will be crappy and you can't drive the car aggressively. Just some compromises for you to keep in mind. :)

Or they can look here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=24286 ;)

Nice job. I am not a fan of these Mayas but wheels are always subject to personal tastes. ;) What did you use to lower the car? Tanabes? As for rubbing, it will depend on offset and tire sizing. I guess if you are using "underspec" tires, you have less rubber on the sidewalls and are paying for it a bit on the ride quality. It is a compromise that each person need to assess. Is the owner planning any more mods? :)

Cool. I am trying to work out my schedule to be there. The current meet date (10/02) was moved from the original plan date of 9/25 so I have a conflict now. :( Come by and say hi if you make it (and if I make it ;)).

I believe this is normal. If the light stays on, then I think you have a problem.

What are the specs of the IS SD rims? The standard ones are 17x7.0 (or is it 7.5). In either case, if you want a sportier look, you should go wider (8.0 - 9.0, depending on offset) so that the wheel is not as recessed into the wheelwell.

My answer in the thread you opened. :)

Even with fender rolling/shaving, those offsets won't work. You MIGHT be able to do it if you run more neg camber and smaller tires. With those choices, I'd go with WHEELS REAR: 20x10 +40mm (you will need to roll or shave about 2-3mm off the lip) FRONT: 20x8.5 +34mm (you will need to roll the fender) TIRES REAR: 275/30-20 FRONT: 245/35-20 (You need to do this to get the tire diameters the same)

I agree that 20s should be the biggest you should go. 21s might work depending on the style but the ride will be crap since the tire sidewall will be so small. I would stay away from 22s. There really is not a good way to make this work.

In that price range, you are probably looking at Wald and Vizage. For an extra $500 on the top end of your range, you could get into a few full bumper replacement kits like the RMM, L-Sportline, Vertex, Veilside, ... Look here for some ideas: http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php BTW - Since you are in NorCal, you may want to see if you can make it to EOS V4 (End of Summer meet) on 10/2. There will be plenty of modded GS for you to check out. Click on the link below my sig to get more info.

From what I've read, no. I believe the piggyback ECU is tuned differently.

I would venture a Gen 1. :P :D

There are no notches in my '98. The last time I saw notches was in a GM . In some other designs, the load on the rod is affected (as you suggested) by moving right-angled bent end of the rod to another notch to change the twist on the rod. ← There are on mine. Here is a pic someone I know put up. When I put on my aftermarket spoiler, I tried this but it was not enough. I had to but the stiffer bars. If the original poster does not have a spoiler, this may be enough.

EDFC = Electronic Damping Force Controller I'll give you one guess what it controls. ;) No height adjustment. It saves you from having to manually adjust each corner when you want to modify the damping. The fronts are not that bad but having to bend over/climb in the truck and pull back the liner whenever you adjust is somewhat a pain. You can only adjust them as sets: front and rear. You can not adjust each individually. There is also 3 saved locations so you can "tune" the car for soft cruising or more aggressive response (within the limits of whatever coilover you have) at the touch of a button. The system comprises of 4 motors, a controller, and wiring. The motors replace the click/step nuts that are at the top of each coilover unit. When you adjust the coilovers with each click, it is merely a guideline to keep the settings uniform. The actual valve is "analog" and can be opened and closed to whatever setting. The EDFC (if you choose) can increase the resolution of the settings from 16 clicks to 32. I don't know anyone that needs to fine tune their street car to that level but it is there. :)

One thing you can try before getting the spoiler version is to change the setting of the ones in your car. There are 3 notches at the end that you can position them. I cannot remember which direction is stiffer but it is easy trial and error.

Except that ever time you come to a complete stop & start driving again, it beeps all over again ← I guess my question would be why would you drive without your seatbelt? I was OK with the comment about not getting it on by the end of the driveway (although I would put it on before moving ;)) but the stop and driving again assumes you are now way beyond the driveway.

If you want as flushed as possible and are willing to shave the fenders, you can safely go with +32 in front and +35 in the rear, assuming you are talking about your 20x8.5 and 20x10 setup. Just in case I have a set of iForged in the classifieds. :) http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=23212 They are not as aggressive as can be, t hough. You will have to shave the rear and bend the front a little.