Neo

Many of the turbos for the GS400 are custom. SRT used to have an SC for the 400s but discontinued them. There are talks/rumors of it coming back but that is yet to be seen. SRT is focusing mainly on their TT setup now (20-30k range). RMM had an SC but also discontinued it. I agree with bartkat. If you plan on going FI, find a good local tuner and see what they can do to help you get to your goals. Speaking of goals, it depends on what you want to do. The GS is a HEAVY car but with the right bolt on mods, you can get it in the low 14s but I have not seen anyone break 14. Maybe with NOS but I don't usually count that. If you just want to make full use of that V8, you can spend about 5k on bolt ons and have a very fast responsive street car. This would include a torque converter, LSD, valve body upgrade, and throw in exhaust and intake. You will be in the low 14s with this (and good techique at the drags ;)) and still be NA.

$1000 complete for 4 corners? That is cheap. Who makes these? I can believe it if it was $1k/corner.

I know how you feel on the mods but if your light is not working, it is not working. Maintaining the car should be first priority before mods. :)

http://www.l-tunedparts.com

No problem. Since I live in CA, I obviously do not have first hand experience with JPI but I know quite a number of Lexus owners who were very satisfied with JPI. The owner, Jason, was a tech at a Lexus dealership so he is quite familiar with the Lexus line of cars. Good luck.

Garland is not too far from you right? I'd recommend this place:

What was this thread about again? ;)

Thx again NEO! If you're getting a set can you let me know when they are available?! ← Yes I am getting a set. I'll try to post back when I get them on.

No one can get them to you since they are not ready yet. They were supposed to be available last month but it has been delayed. It should be pretty soon though.

You are right about the front. You can forget the rear. Forget rolling. Even if you shave the whole fender tab, it won't fit. If you either get a flare kit or do a combo of fender shaving and an aggressive camber setting to tip the wheel inwards, then you have a chance. Unless you really want these wheels, I'd wait for or get ones that has better offset numbers.

I was concerned about the rubbing. Are you planning not to lower the car then? If you are dropping it and +27 rubbed badly, the +25 (although only 2mm) will be worse. Going stretched and staying with the same series (I assume) will make the wheel diameter smaller causing slight problems with the speedo and odo. Usually people have problems with the aftermarket wheels a bit larger than spec. You will have the reverse problem. I hope these wheels look totally hot for you to push the limits like this.

I am not sure about the 2001s but on my 98, I believe it is the ECU-B that is in the passenger-side fuse box in the engine bay. I don't recall there was a 1 and 2 though.

I can't see any pics. :(

Those are pretty aggressive offsets for the SC. I know that those won't fit on my GS without fender modifications and the fronts would need some help from the camber settings. The SCs may have a little more room but I don't think that much. Hopefully someone with an SC can confirm but I would not get these yet if I were you until more info becomes available.

I have a buddy that is running 18x9 +45 all around on his 92 sc400. The front is more aggressive than your 18x8 +35 so you should be OK in the front. It is less aggressive in the rear but the rear can take more so you should be OK too. I also know of someone who has run 18x9.5 +45 which is similar to 18x9 +39. This is pretty close (4mm) to your setup too. The offsets on the wheels in question will actually push them out more towards the fender than OEM. I think AWJ is concerned about fender rub. If that's the case, adding a spacer will only make it worse. ;)

I don't usually recommend front spacers either but on the rears, it should be fine. Do the people you know that have spacers have the H&R or something similar that keeps the wheels hub-centric. If the wheels become lug-centric, you will get vibrations. The amount of vibrations will be somewhat based on how centered you put the wheels back on since you are now counting on the lugs to center the wheels.

Wheel companies that don't have custom offsets sometimes just have a set offset they call FWD and another they call RWD. See if you can find out that offsets (numeric) these wheels are. This will give a better indication of how the wheels will fit on the car. x7.5 are pretty narrow for a GS. If you have to use it though, 235 is the max, which I see you are already doing. The problem with your staggered tire sizes that you stated will also makethe rear wheel outside diameter bigger than the front wheel diameter. Is this your intent? Depending on the actual offset number, I'd prefer to get same size tires (so you can still rotate them) and get a spacer for the rear to push it out. This will solve your "front stick out more than the rear" problem. This way, all the wheels are the same size (unless you are really going for the small diameter front big diameter rear (like a drag car)). 235s would be fine but 225s are more comfortable on a x7.5 rim.

I've never heard this. Other than the reduced light output and color difference, it should not harm the system.

It seems I missed a bit of discussion. :) I usually only check in once every night. skperformance was half right. I always thought the OEM GS wheels were +45. They are actually +50. I checked on my 16s sitting in the garage and with a friend who has the 17s. They are not in the 3x range, however. The issue of FWD and RWD wheels are misleading. They have nothing to do with how the wheels work. Companies that do not offer custom offsets or ones that try to simplify by not having offset numbers use these FWD and RWD offset terms. These terms just translates to offset numbers. As long as the wheels fit the car, a FWD wheel will work on a RWD car and vice versa. The option list from skperformance is what you are basically left with. It seems like you are leaning towards the spacers. Make sure you get the H&R ones. The problems with many generic spacers are that the OEM bolts can accomodate only so much and that they cover up the hub making the wheels lugcentric. The former can lead to dangerous situations if large spacers are added while the latter leads to vibrations. The H&R takes care of both these issues. Here is a pic of the spacer: Good luck.

I don't know enough about the ES so you will have to help me out a bit while I give you some suggestions. There are also a lot of ES owners on board and I'm sure they will chime in. First, the OEM GS wheel offsets are +45. When you put the wheels on, how much is left before the outside of the wheels are flushed with the fenders? I am trying to determine how big a spacer you can put on. Are you dropped? How much do you like these wheels? Meaning, how much more do you want to invest to make this work before moving on to other wheels? Depending on how you answer these questions, two options that may come into play are larger H&R spacers ($100-$150 depending on size) and shaving your fenders. The larger H&R spacers have bolts attached to them so mounting should be no problem. Fender modification only comes into play if the wheels will overlap with the fender lip if pushed out that far.

Sorry. I don't have something to add about the auto-level, As for the wheels, the fact that they are 19s will not cause them to rub. The width (x8, x8.5, x9, ...) and the offset will determine rubbing or not. Tire size is also a factor.

Nope, unless you want to have the wheels custom drilled (not recommended).

What wheels are you running?

I have bought many items from here. Great place.

Hello Mike. ;)