CrunchySkippy

It's also not uncommon for a light coating of rust to form on the rotors overnight. Especially in rainy/humid conditions. This is usually removed quickly with the first application of the brakes, and not noticed throughout a trip. For me, this happens sometimes when I back out of my driveway in the morning. Anything more than that is probably an indication of a greater problem, IMO.

I've used them for garage ticket stubs or airport parking ticket stubs. I suppose you could even use them for toll booth cards. Naturally, I alway panic when I can't remember the *safe* place I stored them in...

Right on, Gaugster. My first reaction was "Engine oil on the rear axle?!?" But then again, I'm not aware of any "valves" on the rear axle either... I don't even think we have breather tubes for the differential, but I can't say I've searched for it. Try to identify the fluid first. Post a picture if you need assistance. If it doesn't show up again, well, who knows. But I think you would have remembered driving through an "oil puddle". That stuff is expensive these days.

But very likely using iron sleeves in the cylinders on those aluminum blocks. Smooth should be able to add insight to whether or not this is *always* necessary. (But I always thought so.)

I agree with GDixon. If performance is what you're after, go for the higher performance model(s). Not only will you save money in the long run, but the reliability will be there. An additional 100hp is hard and expensive to achieve through bolt ons or chip upgrades. Nitrous and/or turbos seem to be the obvious upgrades to pickup 100hp on the 250. I don't know that you will find much in the way of research on the availability or impacts of adding these to the stock 250 engine. I'm content with my 250, however it doesn't sound like you will be happy with the base power. Good luck with your decision either way.

Unfortunately, I'm afraid we will look back 6-12 months from now and think "$4.00 a gallon was cheap". Does anyone remember $3.00 a gallon?!? We kind of blew past that threshold so fast its hardly a memory...

Although I've never used it either, I always assumed it was same as "leaving bread crumbs", in the event you wanted to depart via the same route as you arrived. I haven't really come across a need for it, I guess. If someone has a good use of this feature, please let me (us) know about it!

I'm rather unconventional - where I keep cars for about 8-10 years before trading them out. May as well be something that is comfortable and reliable (theoretically). I've got a year and half with this one at about 16,000 miles. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon.

I'm surprised you even find it driveable after looking at your 300T specs. Talk about apples & oranges...

To my knowledge, there were no mechanical revisions to the 2008 engines. And technically, the ticking is not indicative of a "problem" but merely an audible result of the direct injection. By the way, kudos for finding this older thread - presumably by using the "Search" function!

I passed on it as well. I've been screwed by warranty services in the past (no experience with Lexus, however) where they ding you for depreciation, normal wear-and-tear, etc. To me, buying that warranty is like betting against yourself, where you believe you will have some sort of major repair (greater than $1900 in today's dollars) in years 5 through 7 ONLY. If something happens in the first 4 years you're already covered. After year 7 and your out of luck anyway. If you're risk averse, this may not be a bad way to minimize financial exposure. If you can self-insure future repairs, you'll likely come out ahead. Then again, you may be one of the unlucky ones and need repairs... "Do you feel lucky? Well, do you punk?" - Dirty Harry Good luck with your decision either way.

I wish I had thought of that line!!!

I'm sure he did. Nobody ever likes the new kid on the block, especially when they're competing with you. Did he bother to mention which Toyota was identical to the IS?? By the way, BMW's are nice too - but they have their high and low points, just like anyone else. Just be an educated consumer, and you'll make the right decision that is best for you. Afterall, you're the one that has to make the payments. Good luck.

Smooth1 - you lost me with this part: Maybe its the definition of "fast" (top speed vs. acceleration)? EDIT - I thought more about this: Are you saying that 8 cylinder engines *typically* make more HP throughout the range (usuable) than, say 4 or 6 cylinder engines? On another note, didn't the Acura TL (circa 2004) originally state it had 300HP and then had to give rebates to original owners and restate it as ~270HP?

Can you tell us more about the specifics? I'm having trouble comprehending that statement. Thanks.

No, not at all. Again, I want to congratulate you on your keen sense of HP ratings. Most people would utilize a more scientific method rather than "feel". Horsepower is defined as work over time, not acceleration. Now - if you wanted a fast car, you should have paid attention to other factors instead of just HP. And probably test drove a few other models. As far as the other thread you are referring to, I was not aware of it during my original post. I'm sorry you bought a car you're not happy with. Your *BLEEP*-n-vinegar responses lately give that away.

I'm impressed you either found a 4 wheel dyno to test your car (unlikely) or took the time to pull the engine so you could get an accurate reading at the crank (highly unlikely). Kudos. But no, I haven't seen the commercial. Sounds like a similar theme Lexus ran about 15 (?) years ago, though. Anyone else remember that one?

Although it is strange that the uneven wear did not become evident at the 15,000 mile interval - inside wear is not unusual. It can be caused by wheels needing alignment (as you stated) or it could be from a negative camber setup (as the tech stated), among other causes. I am surprised you have never come across negative camber effects on any of your Corvettes or Porsches, but I've never owned any of those vehicles (wish I had). Many sports cars are setup with negative camber to help negate the effects of body roll. Thus giving a larger tire contact patch while in a hard corner/turn. And since the wheels are tilted in towards the chassis (think of an "A" when looking from behind the car), it is natural that the insides wear faster. Unfortunately I haven't seen the specs of the 250AWD to confirm if this car is set up with negative camber. What is the ball join issue mentioned above?

Hey Rich, what are you talking about?!? :D

There's something I didn't know, but appreciate. When I read that in the FM (nice, by the way), I didn't pick up that it would work with a dead or missing fob battery. I assumed placing the fob by the Start button was simply so that a very weak signal from the fob could be received.

I actually thought I once saw a "toggle switch" somewhere in the Setup Menu. I was toying with the NAV and other features when I came across it. So I'm not sure if it would just toggle the info on the NAV (distance to target), or actually the display in the instrument cluster (odometer, temp, etc). Naturally, I can't recall the specifics now. (Maybe I dreamed it.) I'll see if I can figure it out tonight to prove or disprove my memory. I did a brief review of the online manual and came up with nothing. Strike One against my memory.

you can also just put the seatbelt on. I'm with you about always wearing a seatbelt. However, just last week I experienced the annoyance of the alarm... I dropped my wife off at the train station and once I started rolling again (without her), the alarm started going off. The car assumed she was still in the passenger seat. And since her seatbelt was not connected - the alarm rang for almost a minute before silencing. Does anyone know if this is because I did not put the car in Park when she popped off the seatbelt and opened the door? I haven't had a chance to test it that way. I know there's a sensor in the seat to determine if anyone is there for the airbag deployment...maybe mine isn't functioning correctly?

I guess we need to define "performance" expectations. I just have to remind myself that I'm driving a Lexus IS, not a Porsche GT2. Here's an honest question: If the anti-lock braking system kicks in during a panic stop, doesn't that mean that you are getting the maximum coeffecient of friction anyway? Regardless if they are "performance" pads or "dust-free" pads? Maybe the performance pads lock up quicker (time it takes from starting to brake to the point the computer engages the antilock)? Unfortunately (or fortunately), I don't take my Lexus to track days. Brake fade is not an issue for me (dirty wheels were).

That's a good point...does anyone know if the TSIB has been updated to include the 2008 models? That may be an indicator if they are still using the "dirty" pads (although not necessarly tell us if the opposite is true). If I remember correctly, it took a while for the IS250 to be included, even though it is the same as the IS350. Perhaps it is only a TSIB item if a certaian number of customers complain. Just a thought.

I can't feel any difference. I seriously doubt anyone short of a pro/am racer could notice the performance differences either. Maybe some people who continuously wait until the last possible second to slam on the brakes at every stop light... :) The truth is, brake handling is only partly made up by the brake pads. Tire traction, tire condition, suspension setup, weight distribution, brake calipers, etc... all determine how the car handles under hard braking. Plus, its not like they replaced the pads with granite. :) Sometimes I wonder if Lexus didn't simply say it decreases brake performance just to stem the tide of swaps under the TSIB...