CrunchySkippy

I'm unable to picture the exact place you are talking about, but it does not sound normal. I would highly recommend against adjusting the hinges yourself. Body panel and door alignment can be a major ordeal. If it were mine, I would take it to a body shop. If you're bent on attempting it, be sure to have at least one friend help out. Doors are heavier than they look! You'll also likely need a breaker bar for the bolts (if you don't have access to an impact gun). Lastly, I would score a mark around the hinge so you can get the door back to its current condition. There is a good chance that you will find that the problem lies with the body panel instead. I've used a Sharpie if you don't wan to score it, although its not as "accurate". Good luck with your decision.

New pads will take a few miles to bed in properly. I'm not saying that's why you're feeling a difference (because I admit I felt NO difference with the TSIB replacements), but let us know after about 100-200 miles. By the way, did they replace your rotors? That could be the difference, too.

Mr. Raider - I'm not sure about a "full dismantling", but they would definitely need to drop the transmission pan to access the transmission pump pick-up (inlet) to connect their machine. In all honesty, I haven't looked to see how difficult the trans pan in our car is to access, so maybe that is where the "dismantling" description comes in. Another shop I used to work in simply disconnected the transmission cooler lines for the fresh supply and old fluid returns. Not as effective as an inlet pump, but definitely a quicker/cleaner procedure. One last thing to note: during both types of procedures the vehicle is running, so the transmission pump is determining the rate. Not an external pump/flush machine.

That stuff smells horribly when it is fresh! The "very dark" color is more thought provoking though.

Perhaps it is an electrical pump that your hearing. Although I have no idea why it would cycle a few seconds after stopping (and not be running constantly). Do you recall if you had a near-empty gas tank? I'm thinking maybe your fuel was sloshing to the front of the gas tank under hard deceleration and away from the pickup. Once the fuel levels out again, the pump has to "re-prime" to purge any air it may have picked up during the absence of fuel. May as well go ahead and check all your fluids (if you buy into my far reaching electrical pump theory). Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, even Windshield Washer Fluid. Or anything else that is powered by a pump (or sorts).

Agreed. I think we are saying the same thing.

"They" is the operative word above. I'm sure JustFlyin meant the transmission wasn't "dealer serviceable", not that the original manufacturer, sub manufacturer, or specialty house couldn't open it and service it. I bet Lexus has a cost/benefit analysis for all parts to determine whether it should be repaired or replaced when it is on their dime.

Do you recall if you were turning the steering wheel at the same time? I wonder if the power steering and additional belt driven accessories (brakes, alternator, A/C) induced too much of a load on the engine before it had a chance to stabilize (or react) to achieve idle.

The ABS noise is usually accompanied by brake pedal vibration (think foot massage). Although it is unusual that you never experienced this with your previous IS250 (or any other vehicle with ABS for that matter), it sounds like a textbook description of the ABS.

I just saw an add in a magazine for the new Maguires Clay Bar. Although I have not used it, the verbage (propoganda) states it "removes above surface contaminates" and yet "non-abrasive". I think it is about $20 at Target. Please let us know how it works out, if you choose that route.

I saw an IS350 on the highway yesterday with rear LED turn signals. I just assumed it was a newer model (2009 or 10 perhaps?) since I haven't really been keeping up with the updates. But it definitely caught my eye. I'm guessing someone else will chime in with more specific information.

I'm not aware of any either.

another proof that "savings" in gas quality and octane are really non existent... What causes the carbon build-up? [A] Brutal stop-and-go traffic? Definitely. Gas quality? Possibly. [C] Octane? Nope.

The installer probably disconnected the battery for the installation (as he should have done). You simply need to go to each window and lower them half way, then raise them back up (holding the button for a second or two after it reaches the top). Good luck.

One of the recall items I just had serviced was the "Service Campaign 9LB" for "Rear Brake Caliper Inspection". Maybe this is actually affecting you and your mileage? I'm not sure what the exact issue was...perhaps it was sticking.

The problem is that you take offense when questioned or worse yet corrected (as a member). Then you proceed to either close the thread or distribute warnings (as a moderator).

I was thinking that almost looks like damage from when the wheel was removed from the car (maybe a brake pad change, tire rotation, etc) and was damaged from being laid/slid on the ground. You'll notice the wheel (rim) is actually very close, if not wider, than the tire itself. Did you say all four are like this? Can you tell if the abrasion is directional or circular? -EDIT- It looks like it is circular. I'm changing my vote to something similar to Smooths suggestion of "rail damage".

I would tend to agree that the GPS is probably more accurate. But it should be noted that GPS' tend to have a slight lag/delay when changing speeds. Did you set your cruise control at each interval while travelling on a flat stretch of road (and also waited a few seconds before taking the reading)? I've also heard that altitude changes affect short term accuracy of the GPS as well...but I'm not sure of the definition of "short", though. I'm guessing its more like split-seconds.

I've got a shark fin on my 2007, but I don't have XM or Sirius (or at least a subsription). I always assumed the fin was for my factory NAV, but perhaps it was just pre-wired for satellite radio.

JENunnez - That is an excellent visual explanation. It certainly helped me, and hopefully others as well. Thank you. Pintoca - yes, try to post a pictures. Sounds like your upper control arm may be hitting the rim. You'd probably notice tire damage as well if thats the case. If its more inside the rim that you're describing, it could be something as simple as a piece of debris (gravel, etc) that lodged between the caliper and the rim. It doesn't sound normal, however I haven't exactly looked inside my own rims for comparison.

Try it in an AWD IS. For another exagerated example, try it in an older Jeep CJ or TJ in four wheel drive on dry pavement. Those Jeeps had short wheel bases and tight turning radius' (sp?). I think you'll experience exactly what LEXUS IS250 AWD was describing (jerky, skipping, and even hopping). I'm not exactly sure what you're experiencing with the ES FWD. FWD's wouldn't suffer from either understeer or transfer case inequality. How wide are your tires? I suppose there are different arc's for the inside of the tire vs. the outside of the tire, which might be magnified by a wider tire. Dunno.

It is unlikely you're going fast enough in a tight spot for a parking space to be experiencing any degree of "understeer"...at least any that would be noticable. I see you have the AWD, and what you are experiencing is most likely the wheel travel difference between the front wheel and the rear wheel. In any turn, the differential allocates the majority of power to the outside wheel. This is due to the fact that the outside wheel has a longer radius and a further distance to travel than the inside wheel. The differential simply see's this as the least resistance. On your car, you have two differentials - front and rear. Since the rear wheels basically cut off the angle of the arc of the front wheel travel, the rear wheels are travelling a shorter distance than the front wheels. An exagerated (and somewhat incorrect) example of this is the hypotinuse of a triangle. More specifically, the rear outside wheel is travelling less distance than the front outside wheel. The transfer case that sends the power to the front and rear differentials is unable to compensate for this degree of difference and you feel the symptoms you describe above. This is also the reason that 4WD/AWD vehicles have to have the same size diameter tires on the front and rear. In most circumstances, you can't notice this. But it is magnified in a very tight turn...and the IS has a decent turning radius. Hope this helps.

Well one thing is for sure...you certainly failed to provide anything insightful or helpful to the thread, Bartkat. Thanks to Randy and the my.IS forum for real information.

Nope, doesn't seem to help me Bartkat. But since you seem to know, what was your response to the OP's question? Hmm...nothing but a shot at me. Nice. Maybe I can find JoeZ and Fsport in my owners manual...

Most neighborhood service/gas stations have the used oil tank outside on the side of their garage bays. I used to talk to the attendant and they would let me dump my oil (no charge). Most attendents could care less. Lately I've just been walking with authority right up to the tank, and I have never had anyone even look at me. Someone once told me anyplace that sells oil HAS to take used oil, even if purchased the oil somewhere else. But this may only apply here in Northern Virginia, or maybe even 100% urban legend.