fisher972002

jongin I love 911's and Lexus.. We had a 1982 911 SC, great car.. parts lke brakes and suspension are soo cheap, but electrical/ignition parts are expensive!! but there are so many aftermarket for the old 911 it's expensive to buy, but very cheap to own.. All other porsche's other than the 911 are junk..Cheap to buy and expensive to own.. Look up parts costs for like the 944, out of this world!! The 944s', the 928's, I don't know why porsche even made these cars, the 911 is awesome.. My older 911 was very reliable because it was sooo simple.. Haven't had much exp with newer ones, my brother has 1998 911 C2S, that is an awesome car, with the factory turbo wide body.. Anyways, love the lexus... The electrical system is the true quality of this car and you are no fun with your 03.. I mean we like fixing stuff and with a new one like that nothing is worn out.. With my 1991 I've worked on it for the common issues with the car and it is so logical and easy to work on and no weird problems, something is broken, it is logical to fix and no gremlins like most cars... Lexus and 911, that is a nice combination!

Lexus / Harley.. LOL.. I've owned BMW's, the 3 series and 5 series are good, but those 7 series are junk.. The LS 400 in the early 90's was built to compete with the Mercedes 420 SEL.. ANd it does it very well.. I think the power steering pump failure is due to the high pressure, how easy the steering wheel is to turn.. But guys, we can say this is a weak point, but most cars those pumps fail at 100K or little longer.. The one in my 1992 explorer whines like a pig.. But I guess it doesn't leak, the seals are bad and air gets in there to cause the whine.. And the LCD is a common failure. The PS pump and suspension, I mean beause the car insulates you from the road, the bushings take a lot of abuse, i've rebilt my suspension at 160 K, that's not too bad and it drive like new now..... You will never have to mess with the engine.. No cylinder head issues, no intake manifold gaskets, none of that stuff, which if any of you guys have owned cars other than Japanese cars you know about..... But the electrical system on these cars is why then can be driven so long and are fixable.. Ther are literally no weird electrical problems.. I've never had problem with my insturment panel, I don't know about that? All the switches and buttons and motors and seat motors and all that, moonroof motors all work perfectly on my 1991,.... WHich on my BMW 750 IL, those things were constantly failing.. It had 160K and needed valve stem seals and new valve job.. I had to rebuild the transmission, my brother did that who is a mechanic.. The BB's in the tranny wore out and thus the clutch plate for Reverse and 2nd gear wore out and was totally burned out.. But in that car's defense, it was a real estate car and that V 12 was really tourque so I can see how it would wear out a transmission.... But still, that BMW was an 88 and my lexus is a 1991.. And the BMW wore out several years ago and just wasn't worth fixing anymore.. The lexus, is still going strong and doesn't miss a beat.. I love not messing with weird electrical problems and tranny problems and expecially engine problems... Ever car has parts that wear out, it's just that you can drastically reduce your exposure to expenses with this car.. And i don't know about the starter, mine still has the original at 170K so that seems fine to me?

Oh yeah.. The LCD temp/time display.. I had to replace that also, but again cosmetic and doesn't affect the funcitoning of the car.. Sent the unit in to the guy on this board in Claifornia, he does a good job for about $225 or so I think . And I had to replace the driver side power window motor and the courtesy light switches in the doors as they corroded, but I've had the car for 8 years and driven 60K and it still drives better than a new car and with a new AC and suspension, the car is really like a new car, it's unbelievable.. Just keep those leather seats cleaned and oiled.. Use Lexol.. Those seats love lexol... I also had to replace the seat cushions on the bottom of the front seats, mine got really hard and the cushions' just wore out.. I went to the junkyard and took apart some grey leather seats from a Lincoln Continental, perfect fit and perfect color match, and the bottoms are much softer and I love them now.. I'm sure the lexus seats were soft when new, but the bolster cushions were just gone.. I could have paid a shop to put in new bolsters, but the junyyard seats where way cheaper and I love all the cushy cushion of the lincoln..

Netaphan, On my 1991 I've replaced.. AC system, expensive.. $850 for just the compressor. So with freon/o-rings evaporator rec/drier an ac rebuild costs about $1500..LOL... If this has never been changed that would be something to "save up" for...you gotta pay to pimp - PS pump. They will leak on older LS's and leak on the alternator ruining the alternator.. You'lll know if it is leaking bad enough to drip on the garage floor.. If not, it probably has been changed. I would guess it's been changed - 1990 you're going to have suspension bushings probably worn out.. Specifically lower ball joints on the front and rear carrier arm bushings.. Grab the rear carrier arms if they twist they are worn out, but neither of these are mission critical, they just help stabilize the car as it floats - No other really weak areas.. Like the others say, for sure use Toyota type 4 transmission fluid.. If you use any other fluid you will get torque converter shutter.. when driving on interstate, if you punch it a little as the torque converter shifts down, it will shutter, kind of skip or shutter for 2 seconds... If the tranny has mercon/dextron it will do this, has to have toyota tranny fluid.. My AC went out at about 130K, not too bad for the original system, it's just that that compressor is 3x the price of other cars..LOL.. But if you do your own suspension work the LS is a great car and brakes are really easy and it is a logical car to work on.

Pishta, I think the carrier arm bushings, the round ones connecting to the frame will take up any vibrations and my lexus dealership said lexus doesn't even make replacement rear carrier arms bushings anymore and they used the ones we used.. the ADUS 505 bushings, so really you don't have any choice, but don't worry about vibrations, this is a good fix for about 2 hours of your time and only $66, lots of bang for the buck here.

Bravo, My rear end after shock replacement was still a little swaying over larger bumps.. The rear carrier arm bushing replacment really improved my sway in the backend.. I replaced the sway bar bushing a few months ago and that didn't doa nything.. The old ones weren't wore out though.. I'm with you J.. My old bushings were so shot that when I unwrencehed the bolts, the whole arm twisted...LOL... They were so soft.. Now they are solid and the rear end feels much better... I didn't have the vibrating when braking, but I just replaced the rear brakes... Wow , does the car handle much better.. I replaced the front strut bar cushions, that didn't do anything...... I think those are more of issues w/ 95 or newer LS's... But for the 1990 -1994, the weak points in my observations are... 1. Lower ball joints in front.. Those were really shot and the car wandered a lot. 2. Rear carrier arm bushings.. Lots of improvement here, of course only if yours were as shot as mine. 3. Front stabilizer bar bushings.. They just get hard and are cheap and easy to replace... 4. Upper control arms..Mine are shot and I haven't replaced them yet, this is next... But I tell you, my car drives so much better.. I can't blame the car, it's a 1991 with 170K miles on it and those things are just going to wear out.. I can't believe the dealer charges $600 to do the rear carrier arms bushings.. LOL.. That's funny...... If you guys don't have an impact wrench, get one of those 1/2" Huge Long Breaker bars and a 12 point socket 19MM.... I had to use a 12 PT socket because I just had the car jacket up, I don't have a lift' and with a 6 point My arms were swinging soo much I couldn't get more than half a turn because I would't line up on the bolt and a 12 point I can slowly remove it, does that make sense...

Ok, Thanks.. I did the drivers's side last night.. Not too bad.. I am in the middle of the passenger side.. I just drilled out my old rubber around the metal sleeve.. Then took a jig saw with a metal cutting blade and made two slits in it and hammered a small/medium screwdriver and the metal sleeve just popped out.. That's the way to do it, easy... no 2 jaw puller or nuthin1.. I put back together the drivers side and tried twisting the rod and it is much stiffer.. Mine was fighting back also so I see what you mean.. I think my radius arm bushing are ok also.. Can't wait to drive to see if this fixes my slight rear end vibration...

Hmm, Yeah, I just use one I bought from apple.com and it works great on my 1991 w/Pioneer.. It sounds awesome as that tape player used the hi powered amp and not the *BLEEP*ty radio..LOL.. Maybe it's the belkin thing, but I dunno if other tapes work, I would assume it would be the tape interface itself, get one from apple.com, mine's worked for a year wonderfully. Just slip the ipod in the ashtray.

Jad2 Were you radias arm bushing bad at all.. The ones on the other side of the arm that are circular? Did you replace those also

Bravo Jaed2.. Bravo! Nice post

Hi All, I think my upper control arms are shot also.. I've put on new Lower ball joints and stabilizer bar bushings and strut bar cushions... Handles so much better, but I am hearing a popping, and slight clunking over small cracks in the street.. I grabbed the driver side upper control arm and shook it and it make noise and shifted.. LOL.. Anyways, anybody bougth from that place http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS...yid7_pid65.html And are the bushings the exact as factory and do they maintain the ride... Am just asking because I've seen a lot of discussion about some people putting in those stupid poly busings and non factory shocks and ruining the ride of this wonderful car.. Has anybody replaced their UCA's and does the car ride the same? THanks

1998 Porsche 911 C2S.. 6 Speed manual, we were going 135 in 5th Gear with almost 3k of Engine RPM to go, and still had 6th Gear..LOL.. This car is super fast and going 130 feels like 70 in a normal car..scary.

Hmm, It seems all our older lexus window motors are finally going.. I guess it depends if you have to get a ticket at your work place and open the window twice a day..LOL.. Hey Bud, just went through all this , let me show you the light.. My car is a 1991 LS.. A few days ago, it rolled up and stopped about 2 inches shy of closing completely.. If you listed carefully to the motor, it goes the normal sound, but sort of pauses about every 2 seconds..It itn't like a constant steady elecrical motor hum, do you know what I am saying.... My brother is a mechanic so he told me window regulators wear out and the cables go bad over time.. SO I figured that was it.. Ordered a new Driver side power window regulator from Betts Lexus, $140.00 or so... TOok out the door skin, all the stuff, not that hard, then put the old motor in the new regulator, SAME problem.. What I don't understand, I looked at the curenline.net how to on the window regulator, I don't know what's going on, but in my 1991 lexus ls, there wasnt' any cables or white plastic pieces at all.. The window regulator was this arm with a big metal spring on it, the motor screwed into the metal arm with 3 metal screws and the motor had a plug'in.. Then 2 screws that attached to the bottom of the window.. THERE were no cables at all.. It was all this spring driven arm and the motor and that was it.. Of course you have the buttons on the window, that ride in the track in the door, but I definitely do not have any cables in my car.. ANYWAYS back to the fix.. Put back in the old regulator, A new power window motor from lexus is $380 dollars.. OUCH.. I got on ebay and bought a power window motor for $50 and rolled the dice that it wasn't worn out, and put it back into my old window regulator, and it works perfect...... Took back the new regulator from lexus and ended up spending only $50 to fix my window.... I don't see how theses regulators wear out as this spring was very heavy duty..... THe electrical motor must have been broken inside or something.... The window would roll up to about half way and yo could grab the window and then it would start again.. but then get stuck about 2 inches again.. But the new one is smooth as silk, rolls up nice and smooth and faast.. I forgotten how fast the factory motor was cuz mine must have been pretty worn out.. So yes, even on a lexus, these motors do wear out with everyday up and down use.. I almost guarantee it's the electrical motor, sounds like something is broken in the motor.. Also I remember when the window would get stuck, and you pulled it up, it would pop.. It would pop and pow, thenit would go back up, had to be quick with the hand..LOL Hmm, Though if you say all your window are going up slow then mgiht me the master switch... Cuz all 3 of my windows were faster than the driver window.. I replaced the driver motor and all 4 are about the same speed..

I know it is possible with some dealerships.. For example my brother has a 1998 porsche 911 Carrera C2S the only flaw on the car was some curb rash on the rear pass wheel..He sent it to a local dealership Ramsey pontiac/porsche, and they sent the rim into a repair shop.. They alum welded and sanded down, and repainted the rim.. For $200.00... Not too bad, it looks absolutely perfect.. You woudln't even know it.. but again, this car has painted rims from the factory that match the color of the car, so I don't know for aluminum non painted.... Check w/dealer/ or a local wheel repair place if you can find..

GLenmore, I don't think So.. I had to reposition the spring because the new shock were "turned a little different, so they didnt' use the same spot on the cushion if that makes sense to you... I don't have any thudding, and it is tight, so I'm not going to replace them..

Here are some pictures of the lincoln seat bottoms on my 1991 LS.. There's nothing like really comfortable caddy/lincoln seats.. I wish their foreign manufacturers would forget the hard sports euro seats..LOL.. I LIKE COMFY.. here is the seat.. Eventually I'll do the back so the pattern matches, but I dunno, it's so comfortable now, I hate to mess..LOL.. Here's some pics of my auto dim installation mirror with compass.. Keep in mind with the flash the mirror color looks light grey, but it is an exact match to the original lexus mirror.. That mirror obviously I need to clean up and touch up a few spots... And the wire hiding plastic piece looks like it needs cut better, but you guys get the idea.. This is a great mod.. I mean who has time to reach up and push that button on the original mirror.. ANy idiot comes behind you with brights, it adjusts automatically.. I love it.. Not bad for $45 dollars and a little work.

Here are some more pictures for eye candy... Even though the bottom cushion pattern doesn't match the seat back of the original lexus, %95 of the people won't even notice.. Maybe for a winter project I'll change out the seatback of the lexus seat w/the lincoln one, but for now it is ok.. Here is a picture of the front of the seat by the passenger footwell's.. With the orignal lexus seat, it has that nice trim piece that covers up all your hog rings that are unsightly because the seat cover at the attachment points aren't perfect obviously cuz it's designed for a lincoln continental, not a lexus... But with this trim piece, it doesn't matter.. Nice.. This picture is the rear of the seat.. Again the trim piece and the carpet from the lincoln hide my hog rings and I also used plastic tie strips Matches pretty good huh.. I have some alignment on the cushion to do on the second picture, then I'm done..

OK, I have some good pictures of my new seat bottom.. Let's see how do I put pictures.. I guess I'll attach them? The first picture above is the original seat bottom cushion out of the Lexus front passenger seat.. Look how pathetically flat it is..LOL..I'm holding it sideways.. It's like a flat board.. The second picture is the comporable seat bottom from a 1987 lincoln continental.. Back in the 80's when they made comfortable seats and everybody wasn't crazed with the hard euro seats like they are now.. This last picture is the installed final product showing the seat controls.. That seat bottom makes you sit perfe3ct height in the car.. It has lots more padding, you'd think you'd be "sitting high" but not the case.. All that extra padding gets scrunced as you sit and it's very comfortable

tcho82, Yeah, I'll take some pictures.. I just bought a new digital camera, let me learn how to use that thing and I'll try to get some new pictures next week early for you.. I have football games to watch this saturday and sunday I'll be recovering from a bachelor party..LOL..

I've been browsing this great forum and finally have fixed the clunking in my 1991 LS 400 front end.. Replaced the obvious.. Worn out lower ball joints... Handling improved lots, but still clunking over small bumps, potholes.... Went to the next most replaced, the Sway bar bushings.. They were a little loose, as cheap as they are you all should just replace them.. LOL.. Handling a little better again, but still small clunking... Strut bar cushions.. replaced these, but I think these are more common problem on the 1995+ LS's.. The old ones in mine didn't look worn, no difference, they were like $120 each, kind of expensive.. WIsh I didn't do that... LOL... Still clunking.. New tires, old tires really worn.. THen I noticed my driver's side strut was really oily.. Original struts, 157000 miles, time to replace.. Replaced the Struts, put ina new strut bumper, driver side one was all chewed up..LOL.... Fixed... Car drives like a new car.. The clunking noise was the driver's side strut, was so worn out that I really think the tires were "Slapping " on the little bumps.. That's my only solution, cuz I doubt it was the 'bumper" because again that is just to prevent bottoming out over hard bumps.. Better than a new car, it rides sooooo awesome.. Love it.. But I can tell when I have 4 or 5 people going down the interstate, the rear struts are a little worn.. But I can replace those later.. and most of the time I'm by myself.. If anybody is in the Des Moines, IA area and needs help with these front end parts, let me know, it's really not that bad once you figure out the procedure... For example on one strut, i accidentally loosened the top bolt holding the tension of the strut/spring and the strut unsprung while it was sitll in the car.. LOL :chairshot: : ... Of course it was stuck, so I had to take my grinder and cut the strut in half.. But then I replaced hte driver side in about 30 minutes, it was soo easy...... Just rent a strut spring compressor from auto store, no special tools except the torque wrench of course... other issues with my first generation ls400. FIxed AC, that was expensive $1600 and my brother did the work.. Wow, that complressor is expensive.. Hard seat issue.. Fixed , I found some nice grey leather seats from a 1987 Lincoln continental.. THe lincoln town cars seats are tooo big, but the smaller continental seats fit like a glove and the interior grey tint is an exact mathc... The seat bottoms are soo soft and comfy, I love them.. not bad fix for $20/each at the junkyard wrench and go....WHat is it with these newer cars.. I mean cars from the 1980's had the softest most comfy seats.. My buddies Lincoln LS has hard seats.. My buddies brand new Honda Accord with leather, has kind of hard seats... I don't get it... The seats from those 80's lincoln's and caddies are the best.. Acutally newer caddy seats minus the little ones have compfy seats, hard to beat a continental or deville.. Those japanese should take heed on seat design.. ;) Auto dim rearview mirror. My LCD rear view mirror sucked.. when my car gets hot, it has spots that go black, plus I like those auto-dim mirror's with the compass built in them, who has time to push the button on the lexus one..LOL.. Get the automatic dim.. Go on ebay, buy yourself a Gentex mirror.. The compass mirror I bought was a Gentex 177 and it cost only $35 dollars.. It was from a ford taurus.. Also you want the older mirror because it has a green compass display, it perfectly matches the Green LCD on the lexus radio/tmep.. Looks factory guys... Dont' worry about all the wires.. All you need is power/ground.. The plug is labeled as to which wire does what, the #1 wire is the power and #2 is ground. The power has to be ignition switched, lol, you dont' want the mirror on all the time as the car sits..LOL... Or the ground is the all black one.. All the other wires you don't need.. THey are for the backuplight sensor and all that, if you need to back up and absolutley can't see just turnoff the auto-dim feature with a push of a button.. THe mirror calibrates after you hook it up and as long as it stays mounted in the car, when you power up again as long as the car hasn't been tower or something, will remember the last position.. It's really cool.... I took off my factory mirror, and glued on the mirror chip thingy, and ran a 12 volt power/ground along the headliner and wallah... compass auto dim mirror..:cheers: I also painted the mirror the exact color of the original mirror.. Simply take the old mirror to the hardware store and have them computer match the grey color.. mask out the compass mirror.. Get the little plastic track thing to hide the wires, and it looks very , very professional.. Get some sharp razor blades, cut the scott's painters tape away on the edges of the mirror.. Brush on the paint with one of those foam paint brushes.. The texture in the gentex mirror will hide any brushmarks.. Plus with the foam brush, you won't see any marks... It'll look Lexus factory... Your passengers will wonder? Wow, what year is this car.. I thought they only put compass mirror's on newer cars... Total cost of the mirror changeout with the brush and paint and mirror, is about $45 dollars..LOL well worth it and a few hours of your time, I'll try to put on a picture of how it looks for you guys.. Plus the compass ligths look really neat with the cool LS guages.. It really looks good because the lexus is kind of boring at the sunroof controls and such.. I wish the sunroof contrrols had some type of courtesy lights so yo could see those buttons at night..LOL ANyways.. Of my ls has been great.. I do al the mainenance, the fuul filters, oil changes, brakes and such... The only other problem I've had with the car is the LCD temp display issue that everybody is aware of.. I sent mine to the guy reommended here and for $230 dollars have my LCD temp/clock back.. That is nice also....

I have a DIe Hard Silver, been a great battery for me.. You don't need to buy a "Lexus" battery.. They're all pretty much the same and most are recycled at the same plants.. LOL..

THe plastic cap does nothing to actually hold in the freon pressure.. But if it is oily, then your schrader valve is bad and they do go bad ever once in a while.. But I would look at the more obvious things, more htan likely slow leak in compressor.. You can charge 134 into and R12 system, if you compressor is leaking, you're not going to hurt anything anyways..... THe accumulator, orfice tube, all that stuff, all the o-rings will get replaced down the road when you permanently fix the ac.. Better save about 1500 or so.. THe freagin compressor alone is like 850.. I got mine with a UPS discount for like $759.. Expensive thing.... Labor plus freon, to goto 134 they will have to put on a bigger evaportor since 134 isn't as an efficient cooler as R12.. I spent $1600 on my system,I did it a few years ago, when R12 was still in the moderate ballpark price wise, right now, that stuff is more and more scarce and expensive.. I would just put in a little 134, get by for the summer and save some $$$$$$ cuz you're going to need it.. The only thing that R134 in a R12 system will hurt is the rubber o-rings.. and those can be replaced on an AC service anyways.... THe convertor kit is simply new evaporator and new orings....

Yeah, I have a 1991 Lexus LS.. My driver seat is pretty good still.. But my passenger seat, I don't know if the foam is gone or what, but it is really hard... WHen you sit on it it feels really hard and just flat.. My solution... I bought seats at a junkyard out of a different car... I bought leather seats from a 1987 Lincoln continental... Town cars's seats are really comfy, but too big... The continental series, right before 1988 when they changed the sytle to the split bench, those seats fit perfectly in the LS.. THe interior codes of the grey leather are an exact match for my 1991 lexus which is silver and grey leather....You can't even tellt he difference in the shades.. except for the small difference in the pattern of the leather... But man, those bottom's are much more comfy.. It's unbelievable the difference in the foam between the lincoln seat and the lexus bottom... I don't know if lexus was trying to go after hte sporty, firmer euro seat or what.. But I love the soft on your butt, comfortable american lincoln seat.. THe length, width of the continental seat fits perfectly ove the lexus bottom.. THe sides go down. and lexus has that little trim piece on the bottom of the seat the hides the cutouts of the lincoln.. Since the seat controls of the lincoln are on the inside left of the seat, at a control panel next to the hump in the middle of hte car... I wish all lexus seats were this comfortable.. No more wife complaints.. LOL.. :) ALso, I forgot to add. I bought each seat complete for $20 each.. at a "Wrench and go" type place... THe biggest trick is finding junkyard carS that the doors aren't missing where the leather is still pretty good..As long as the seats are in good condition, it's amazing what a little Lexol lether cleaner and then follow up with conditioner will do to junkyard seats, they look like new... Right now I just have the bottom's replaced with the lincoln bottoms, but maybe this winter I"ll replace the backs also so all the seat matches... But I don't really care for the back of that lincoln seat it's all vinyl.. LOL.. And another thing.. Why are the rear seats so plush and comfortable.. They have lots of foam in them.. WHy didn't they do that to the front.. Is it because the rear seats are 'cupped' and they hold you and they had to make the front harder so you don't tip around so much?? I DUNNO.. Is my car the only one where the rear seats are soft as lincoln seats but the front are flat as a board?? But Idunno, vinyl or whatever that is, that seat is soooo comfy compared to the hard as a rock lexus seat..LOL..