Karl K

Try disconnecting the battery for a minute or so, maybe the controller is confused. Sometimes this can help. Good luck. Karl

I wonder if there is a separate fuse for that ?

Hello Mikey00, the download worked great. Thanks a lot, Karl

Mikey00 could you please add my email to your list for the manual? einkauf35@earthlink.net thanks a lot

Hello mikey00 would it be possible for me to add my email address so I could get the manuel as well? I would really apreciate it. Thanks in advance, Karl

Hello dirtypwntang, what is the 10 bottle of fuel additive you would use called? I am sort of fuzzy about what to put onto the tank If you have something that really works, please let me know. Thanks, Karl

Bank 1, sensor 1 is the exhaust manifold under the car. Bank 2, Sensor 2 is the one behind the radiator. Good luck Karl

I've got the same problem... My driver's side window had been acting a bit flaky here and there over the past few weeks (rolling down when I tried to roll it up, etc) but it was seemingly very random so I didn't think much of it. Now this morning I can't get it to roll up at all, so I'm hitting up these forums looking for some anwers... HELP! All of the other windows work fine, so I'm thinking its just a problem with the switch or maybe the motor itself in my driver's side window.... any thoughts? Do a search for "Window switch" and read my post "The 600 Dollar Window switch" it explains what I dit for the same problem. Good luck Karl Thanks for the reply Karl - I'll DEFINITELY give that method a shot once I get home... :) Hopefully it works! As for my situation right now, I went back out to the parking lot and messed with it for about 10 minutes... after trying like 30 times it just miraculously came up and closed all the way so at least I'm safe for now... I noticed that whenever I tried to bring the window up, I heard a small faint clicking noise (I hear the same one from all of the other windows as well) so I'm thinking that the switch itself and the motor are working fine, there is just something keeping the window from actually coming up all the time, so maybe your method will work. The only thing that makes me doubt this is that for the past few weeks, I've noticed that the window would sometimes go DOWN when I told it to go UP -- that leads me to think that there is in fact somethign wrong with the switch/contacts/etc... thoughts? Sounds exactly like my problem. Spray lots of WD 40 into the switch and keep working the switch to get the contacts cleaned up. Karl

I've got the same problem... My driver's side window had been acting a bit flaky here and there over the past few weeks (rolling down when I tried to roll it up, etc) but it was seemingly very random so I didn't think much of it. Now this morning I can't get it to roll up at all, so I'm hitting up these forums looking for some anwers... HELP! All of the other windows work fine, so I'm thinking its just a problem with the switch or maybe the motor itself in my driver's side window.... any thoughts? Do a search for "Window switch" and read my post "The 600 Dollar Window switch" it explains what I dit for the same problem. Good luck Karl

My guess is that once you get the engine to run on all cylinders, by raplacing the plugs and or coils, the MAF and IACV will function normally again. Do the most obvious things first. Good luck, Karl

Another thing that could cause binding of the shift lever is that when parking on an incline and not putting the parking brake on before putting the transmission into park can cause an excessive load on the parking lock inside the transmission making it hard or impossible to move the shifter. It is good practice to always put the parking brake on before putting it into park. Karl

Did that problem come on slowly or did it happen suddenly? If it happened suddenly it is likely a sensor malfunctioning. If it happened slowly, over a long period of time, it could be carbon build up. hope this helps Karl

If you suspect corrosion in the fuse panel, which you think is temperamental, you could remove the fuses, spray the fuse panel with contact cleaner ( like from Radio Shack) and reinstall the fuses in their proper location. Hope this helps Karl

Actually you don't have to remove the door panel. Take a tool or other instrument, something like a screwdriver without sharp edges, get in toward the rear of the switch plate and carefully pry the switch out of it's location in the arm rest.....don't force it, play with it if you have to you don't want to scratch the plate. It is held in place by spring clips. Once it is out, disconnect the electrical plug, unscrew the face plate so you just have the switch assembly, turn the switch upside down and spray under the moving part, swish it around and start rocking the switch slowly until it moves freely. It worked for me, hope it helps somone. Good luck Karl

The $600 window switch...well, almost $600 dollars at the dealer, $477.70 discounted plus shipping. My drivers door window got stuck in the down position. The switch felt rough and sticky and I didn't want to force it. I took the switch out of the door panel, removed the face-plate, sprayed some WD-40 into the switch and started to slowly work it. After a while the switch felt as good as new. I put it back into the door and my window Is now working again like it always did. I hope this might help someone down the line. Karl

I recently bought a scanner on eBay, a "U380 OBD II Trouble Code Reader Scanner OBD 2 II Engine" It works as it should and is reasoably priced. It was $39.99. Good luck Karl This link should take you there. http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-2357-0...em=110025771903

Come-on guys. This is strictly for looks and it has to please the owner. I think it looks cool. Karl

Hello, I have a code P1135 (Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1Sensor 1) My problem is that I can't find a direct Part Number replacement. I checked with oxygensensors.com The Toyota Number on my sensor is: 89467-18011 Is this number possibly superseded? Thanks for any help Karl

Thanks, coz, for the input. unfortunately I don't have nav. I just ordered a code reader on eBay. Thanks Karl

Can trouble codes be read without having a code reader?

I also had the check engine light come on along with "VSC" and "Track off". It went off again by itself for two days and now it came on again. There seems to be no difference on the car's performance. Is there a way to read the codes without having a code reader? Thanks for any help, Karl

I also had some battery problems recently. It was the battery that needet replacing. When I tested for currant draw, putting the ampere meter in seies with the battery, there was a 5 milliamp draw, which I think is fine. good luck, Karl

I just replaced the battery and had no radio code problem. There is no code.

After backing out of garage I shifted into 4th rather than "D". No reason, just screwed up. You must have stopped for gas at least once. Did you screw up again after you gased up?

They should use the five year old in the commercial, he has it figured out!!!