Karl K

I just "updated" and am already sorry. I tradet my 2001 RX300 with 84,000 miles on it for a dealers demo 2012 RX350 with 8000 miles and factory new car warranty. I miss the drawers in the center console, the sun glass storage compartment and the little cubby-compartment on the dash on the left side, I used to keep some change in. What bothers me most is an annoying ressonance type of noise (it's hard to describe) at idle. It disapiers when you go. The dealer tells me it is normal. With a so-called luxury car for almost $50,000 you shouldn't have to put up with something like that. The only improvemrnt over the RX300 is the turning radius. I hope you have better luck. BTW, I now have a Weathertech Cargo Liner in black and a pair of front original Lexus rubber mats in brown in like new condition laying around.

Hello all. Last time I cleaned the servo contacts I took an eraser and thoroughly cleaned the comutator ( the disc that the fingers make contact ) before spreading the grease and that was over a year ago and it is still quiet.

I live in Florida and don't have to worry about snow and I don't go off-road. All I want is a smooth, quiet ride and the GoodYear Assurance Comfortread sure delivers it. I got them at Sam's.

Just keep soaking it and turn it back and forth till it's completely free or you'll tear out the threads.

Thanks for that warranty info. Problem is I live an hour and a halve from the nearest dealer.

Hi all, The drivers seat belt latch is broken and neads to be replaced. Where would be a good place to get one other then a dealer? 2001 RX300 Thanks

<Have to ask... How did you arrive at that particular solution?> This info came from a Lexus technician.

Try this: Put the window all the way up and keep the switch pulled up for about four more seconds and put it back down. It worked for me. The window tracks should be lubricated with a Silicone spray, or the jam ....pinch thing will just kick in again. Karl

First thing I would do is get away from this dealer and find a good independent repair shop with good technicians. A Toyota dealer might be a good bet too since they share this engine.

Well said code 58 Happy New Year, Karl

You can replace the A/F sensor yourself. It's an easy job. When you look down between the radiator and the engine you see the sensor screwed into the exhaust manifold. Now that is A/F sensor 2. A/F sensor 1 is located in back of the engine and is accessible only from under the car. The cost of the sensor is about $150.00 at oxygensensors.com and free shipping. I would use only the Denso brand, it is original equipment. Happy New Year and good luck with the sensor.

I am sure that any one of the codes you have listed will prevent the overdrive from engaging

>I have few issues with my 2000 RX300 front wheel drive. Miles 84K. The drive side window goes down but hesitates to come up. If the window is half open, when I press up, it goes down instead. When it is completely down, then it comes up. Sometimes it doesn't come up at all. I have to wait for 15 20 minutes and try again and it comes up. Few times, I had to shut off the engine, restart and then only it comes up.> What did you have to do to get the window to work? Did the pinch protection procedure help? My 2001 just started tie same thing. Thanks, Karl

It is amazing that someone would do a wheel alignment on a vehicle with worn ball joints and or tie rod ends. Karl

code58, it looks to me that you are right on with the ignition switch, it makes perfect sense. Another possibility is the connector to the ignition switch. Unplugging and reconnecting it could also be a test. On the old VW beetle, with an intermittent problem, we used to soak the whole ignition switch in contact cleaner for a test. If it fixed the problem, we would replace the switch. Karl

code 58, 1. I don't believe valve float is possible with all the limitations deigned into this setup. 2. Since you broad up valve float, the intake and exhaust valves are not running side by side, they are running opposite one another and in a typical floating condition the intake opens before the exhaust closes and the two collide. This is not going to happen in this engine, it is a tame engine. This is just a picture of what happens when valves float because of over-revving or because of weak valve springs Karl.

code58 <Even valve float at high enough rev could cause interference.> That is correct except the valves would not hit the pistons but each other. I which case, broken belt or not, the valves would be bend or broken and of course then the pistons would finish the rest. Karl

code58, of course I didn't own one of those 124s, I'd rather walk. I was in the repair business. Independent foreign auto repair shop for 34 years. Now I just enjoy my motorcycles. Karl

code58, you are absolutely correct about those belts, they seem to last forever. I remember replacing T-belts on the four cylinder Porsches at 28,000 to 30,000 miles. Any further and you were asking for bent valves for sure. Or the Fiat 124, any further then 35,000-40,000 miles and you were looking at a new engine. I am at 63,000 miles on the 2001 RX 300, I guess I've got a bit to go. Karl

Just the other day I saw a trail of oil coming out of a quick oil change place and running down the street. I wonder how far this poor soul made it before the engine locked up. Karl

The 9 Volt battery works well in a car where the cigarette lighter is not switched by the ignition. If you would plug it into a switched socket and turn on the key that would instantly kill the 9 volt battery and render it useless. Anyway, you shouldn't change the battery with the ignition on, that's verboten. Karl

<Quote> I have no idea what the guy at Orielly's was talking about He is talking about a special tool that's required to push the piston back when you have a caliper with integral handbrake mechanism which is not the case on Lexus. BTW, nice instructions code58 Karl

Guys, I hate to interrupt the conversation but take it from a retired pro. Never pry the piston back by putting pressure on the disc. The proper way is to pivot the caliper up, put a "C"-clamp on the old pad, open the bleeder, crank back the piston by applying the c-clamp pressure against the old pad, when the piston is all the way in close the bleeder. Never push the old, contaminated fluid up-stream into the master cylinder just like code58 says. Also you wouldn't have to clean up the mess from an overflowing master cylinder reservoir. Just my 2 cents Karl

Real nice work. Thanks for sharing all that.

Gentlemen, I agree with all the posts above but like to add a much over looked item. The PCV valve. Yes the little PCV valve. A clogged PCV valve lets pressure build up in the crank case forcing the oil out where ever it finds a way. In all my years of professionally repairing and tuning engines I have stopped or at least reduced many oil leaks by replacing the PCV valve and making sure that all the associated passages and hoses are unrestricted and not leaking vacuum. So, along with Auto-RX, take care of the engines breathing system. Good luck, Karl