JohnH

Fyi... I've been using a Phillips and "Radio Shack" brand of cassette adapter for years now. Some brands just don't work, (like your Sony I guess). Others have both track wheels connected so the tape unit "thinks" there is actual tape moving. You could save yourself some bucks by just trying a couple other brands of adapters. My .02

The antenna adjusts to 2 different heights based on if your listening to AM or FM. I believe FM is the lower height. (don't have my car with me to check) If that's what's happening, it's by design. Try switching back and forth from AM to FM. You'll see.

Simple question... Would you change an Oil Filter, and leave the dirty oil in the engine? B) Same answer for the tranny..

Sounds like maybe the rear window seal. Probably at the bottom.

I had the same thing happen a couple years ago. For months this was happening. I figured it was probably the solenoid in the starter, but as long as it would eventually start, I just ignored it. Well.. One morning the solenoid stuck ON, and the engine wouldn't stop cranking even after it has started. Fortunately I was in my driveway and dashed into the garage for a wrench to disconnect the battery real quick. Got it towed, and they replaced the starter. All was good. Not to say that's your issue, but the symptoms are identical! Good Luck..

Absolutely. Anything made of rubber should be looked at on a vehicle that old, regardless of the mileage. All belts and hoses. If your timing belt goes, it could hose your whole engine. Best get it taken care of. My .02

You've got to be kidding me.. For what was, a $50,000.00 plus car, with less than 30k miles on it, for under $5k !!!!!!!!!!! What are you waiting for? Being stored outside, you will probably want to have your 65k miles service done now, (belts, hoses etc). After 16 years, anything made of rubber may have to be looked at. Still a great car, and a great deal...

My '95 SC300 has done it almost since day one. I was told that it was because the exhaust system was well contructed of heavy duty Stainless Steel. Don't know if that's the fact of the matter, but after 13 years the car still sounds the same, and still crackles when I shut it off.

I've had my '95 SC300 5 Speed for 13 years now. Including tuneups.. I've spent less than $7k for service in that time. It is by far the most reliable car I've ever owned. (Ive had many cars in my 54 years) Plus.... The 26 MPG highway is a definite plus these days. It's not a screaming V8, but it gets past 60 in 2nd gear pretty quickly. My .02

Here ya go... Clean or replace this filter. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=38751&hl= Here's where to get a new one if you wish. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...4294967004+9172

Before you spend the bucks on new ones... A few years ago, I followed the steps to pull off and break open the headlights to clean the insides because of yellowing. Turned out I was stupidly mistaken. The yellowing was on The Outside, and Not the inside. I put them back together then bought a bottle of Meguiars Plastic Polish at the Auto Parts store. After using that they looked good as new! It was just that the plastic on the outside had oxidized from the Sun. Of course, now they condensate when before I messed them up, they didn't. Oh well. Live and Learn. Not to say you don't have issues inside the headlights, but you might want to try this first, just to see if it helps the situation.

I might suggest you clean off the electrical contacts with a pencil eraser. Moisture usually corrodes them over time. And definitely replace both sides.. It's a pain opening everything up.. Why do it twice.. --------------------------------------

You can pickup a used one here... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-1994-L...81641QQtcZphoto Or.. Check out this previous thread... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=Climate There's a place in SF that will send you one with a new lens, you send them yours. JH

Had this happen a couple years ago. The "turning the key a few times" went on for a few months. Then one morning, the solinoid got stuck In The Flywheel, and wouldn't retract. Had to run in the garage and get a wrench to Quickly disconnect the battery. So.. U might want to get it fixed sooner, rather than later. Don't know the procedure. I paid a local place to do it. ($700 later) Good Luck

I got $250 for mine a couple years ago on Craigs List.

I have had or still have some of the issues you stated. It's just the nature of the car. The pluses way out weigh the minuses though. But what you should look at is, whats the Blue Book of the car. Mine is a '95 also, and Blue Book is about $8k. So before you put $10k into it, you have to decide if you love the car that much. I only have 120k on mine. With 170k+, you might want to really think about putting more into it. Engine and Drive Train could be next. I've loved this car for 12 years, and have not put more than $6k worth of tune-up and repairs into since I bought it, (I've been very fortunate). Problem is.... They don't make them anymore. I keep waiting for something major to go wrong so I'll have an excuse to get an IS or something. Maybe in its 13th year. JH

Replaced mine a couple years ago when I kept getting bonked on the head. I replaced them with the stiffer ones that must used when a spoiler is attached to the trunk. I don't have a spoiler, but I figured these will last longer, and open better. They do..! Just a little touch of the trunk and it flies open, (watch your face). Here's where I got mine. http://www.buyautoparts.com/addtocarts/199...runk_Strut.html Ditto. I expected them to lift the trunk once it was released, but you have to lift the trunk the first half a foot or so and it will continue to do the job and should hold it up fine.

I've run into the same thing. I have 2 that don't work. One is a Phillips. I don't recall what the other is. Actually, the cheap one I got at Radio Shack works fine. Different ones are designed differently. It depends on whether both wheels turn or not. The lexus cassette looks to make sure both sides are turning. to make sure its not jamming. You just need to get an adapter that has the 2 wheels "tied" together, and it'll work.

Ok... So I finally got tired of the clutch chirping like a bird all the time. I had a new throw out bearing installed last week. All was great for about 4 days. Now I can hear it starting to chirp again.. Just slightly.. but chirping. Goes away when I touch the pedal, as before. I'm afraid its gonna just get worse again. Could it be the fork holding the bearing after all? (as suggested below) Or ??? Thanks...

Your not going to believe this..... But try turning your emergency flashers on and off a couple times. Mine does this from time to time, (like 5 years now). Especially in the fall and winter. The switch for the emergency flashers is on the same circuit as the turn signals. The contacts for that switch get a bit dirty from not being used. I've had to do the old "on and off" thing with them twice in the last week, and Presto.. The turn signals work again. Good Luck!! So.... Did that work? (just had to know that someone else has the same wierd issue)

Your not going to believe this..... But try turning your emergency flashers on and off a couple times. Mine does this from time to time, (like 5 years now). Especially in the fall and winter. The switch for the emergency flashers is on the same circuit as the turn signals. The contacts for that switch get a bit dirty from not being used. I've had to do the old "on and off" thing with them twice in the last week, and Presto.. The turn signals work again. Good Luck!!

Bought mine here a while back. Just follow the instructions cafefully. It's not too hard. http://www.buyautoparts.com/model_category...rts+Search.y=23

There are 2 more bolts. You have to remove the front wheel, and peel back the wheel well liner after taking out a few of the screws holding it. You'll need a 12" socket extention to make it easier. Warning: There are a couple Very Sharp pointed guides attached to the lights that will scratch your bumper if your not very careful when you pull out the lights. I would suggest you lay down some Duct or Masking Tape on the bumper all across the area below the light before preceding.. (been there,, scratched that).

Went thru this about a year ago. Same symptoms. I'd have to turn the key a couple times to get it started. I swapped the battery, thinking that was it. Not.. This went on for several months. One day, it finally gave out all together. And it gave out in a bad way. It died with the solonoid electrically fused in the ON position. I had to quickly disconnect the battery. You might want to Not wait that long to get it fixed. You'll save money on the expensive Towing bill. :cries: