SPORTcoupe300

Why don't you just stop by the dealer and pick some up?

what he said. :D

Just wondering if there was anyone here who drives a baby blue GS and lives in the Bay Area.

My 96 SC300 5spd with all options except heated seats went out the door for roughly $47,000 7 years (and 100k miles) later I bought it for $11,000 with extra 18" rims (worth $1000) and installed Eibachs ($500)

I went to Toyota and bought the Supra oil filters. It's one for $4.99 or 3 for $12. That comes out to be cheaper than the tough guard fram crap. Mobil1 Synthetic is the only oil that goes into my engine. Using synthetic with a fram filter is a waste of money.

I hope you know that the Borlas you ordered are just mufflers that bolt-on directly as do your stock ones.

That is why my cigarrette lighter is occupied by my phone charger =)

It's a big pain in the !Removed! conversion and I don't think many have done it. Price would be too much. I don't get why you would want to do it anyways. SC300 has plenty of power and if you want more you can turbo an SC300(to have way more power than SC400) for much cheaper than converting an SC400 to a stick.

Eeeeek. Were all the dashboard light on when you bought the car? 1. Yes you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the plugs (pain in the !Removed!) 2. 3k @ 60mph in O/D sounds a bit high but then again, I drive a 5spd so not completely sure. 3. If you know what you're doing, you could replace the gasket yourself but it will take some tools and a bit of time. Make sure it's the gasket before you take anything apart. Go to a mechanic and get a compression test. That should tell you if your headgaset is leaking.

You probably told the dealer you needed a new headlight.....or he understood you that way. If you replace the bulb yourself, make sure not to touch the glass part of the bulb. If you touch it, the grease off your fingers will stay on the bulb and burn the bulb after a few weeks.

Loose wire somewhere. Take negative off your battery and then check positive. Make sure it's on tight and there is no green crap around. Then follow the wires to the starter and make sure all the nuts are tight. Does your Trip Meter ever reset by itself?

I bought my SC lowered an inch in Front and Rear. It was also equipped with 18s. When it came time to change the tires (very soon after i bought the car) I saw that it had bad camber problems. The tire was worn to the thread on the insides while it still had some rubbe on the outside. After buying new tires I went to a professional allignment shop where the guy aloowed me to watch the whole process. What I saw was that the front camber was about 1 degree and the rear was about 2.5 degrees. I thought this strange since the car had been lowered and equal 1 inch both front and back. To make a long story.....not as long...the guy won me half a degree on the rear wheels and nothing on the front. You can view my before & after stat sheet here And to answer your question about the camber kit.....no there isn't one for the SC300.

I've got the same problem and it's caused by the rotors not being machined when the brakes are changed. The rotors glaze over and then you get the squeak. The way to fix it now is just wait till these brakes wear out (if you're cheap like me) and then have the rotors machined(in my case replaced) and new pads.

Gotta stay away from those cliffs in cars as nice as the SC. Sorry to hear about your loss. Tell us how it happened if it's not too painfull to remember. :(

Got the same problem but i thought this was normal. From what I understand, that's how AM works. It travels further due to longer wavelengths but is more susceptible to interference.

An 8 cyl car should run about 15K a year. So if a 93 SC400 has anything under 150K, that's decent mileage. If you take care of it, it should run way past 200K. My friends got a SC300 that's going on 290K on factory engine and tranny.

Livin in a dream world buddy. Either you gotta cough up the dough, or you gotta know what you're doing, otherwise you won't get more than 5 horses.

So what did you end up doing to the headlights? Did you take them out and "dry" them. Or did you do the light sanding from the outside?

Plus the coolant doesn't have to travel as far (I think) so your water pump gets a bit of a break.

As far as I know the SC400 engine is a non-interference engine, but don't take my word for it. Factory reccomends 90K and I agree. If in doubt, just do it anyways.

As in "it's good stuff"

http://www.lextasy.com/storeb/agora.cgi?ca...n&ppinc=search2 I think that's what you're looking for

Oh yeah...almost forgot..... The tires have the best ratings I've ever seen on any tire. "Results from our online tire survey: 13 surveys submitted 35,523 miles reported Dry Traction 9.6 Wet Traction 9.2 Hydro Resistance 9 Snow Traction N/A Cornering Stability 9.2 Steering Response 9.5 Ride Comfort 9.4 Noise Comfort 9.1 Tread Wear 8.9 Key: Superior (8.6-10) Excellent (6.6-8.5) Good (4.6-6.5) Fair (2.6-4.5) Unacceptable (0-2.5) Would You Buy This Tire Again? Most said: Definitely (Average of 9.8 out of 10) How Did This Tire Rank In Its Category? 1 out of 45 tires (Score of 9.2 vs best tire in category score of 9.2) That definitely says something.

I like Yokohama as well but they used to be a bit cheaper. They're starting to catch on that people like their tires and are raising their prices. Right now I think this is an awesome tire for it's price: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW-2 I love the unique tread pattern and the fair price of $178/tire Definitely my next pick.

Sell the Ford and do the na-t. (if your engine's getting kinda old, like over 100K, do a rebuild first) Then fine-tune the shiznit out of it and you'll be looking at 500+ horses. You'll end up saving money over the ge-gte conversion, but make sure you get everything you need and every possible precaussion you can get. With a turbo, you want to make sure that no matter what happens, you don't blow your newly rebuilt engine within the first few weeks. Oh yeah......F-Max!