1990LS400

I wouldn't say that 185K is "just the beginning" but a well kept LS at that mileage can have a lot of life left in it although a number of components will likely need replacing/fixing along the way. My 90 LS looked and drove nearly like new when I sold it in 2003 at 183.5K miles. As of a few weeks ago, the second owner was selling it at 295K miles but the car had started to visibly rust around the rear wheel arches. Air suspension was a fairly inexpensive ($1,500) option in 1990 but it can cost several times that (exceeding the value of the vehicle) to replace all the OEM air struts with new ones. Many replace the air suspension with aftermarket coil spring suspensions when the OEM air suspension starts to die. What is the asking price for this car? Any rust or obvious cosmetic defects? Does the A/C work and has it been converted from R12 to R134a? Do all the internal electrics work including all the bulbs and LCD's in the HVAC controller and radio? Do all the gauges including the odometer work? Do the speedo and tach needles still light up? Does the car have heated seats and, if so, do they work? Do all the exterior lights including the fog lights work and are there signs of corrosion around the fuse blocks? Are there complete maintenance records documenting that the car has had regular oil changes and the timing belt/water/pump/idlers, etc. ($1,000+ job) replaced for the second time at 180,000 miles? These cars can be fairly expensive to own as they age. Based on my experience, at a minimum you should reserve between $1,000 and $2,000 anually for repairs and maintenance. And I'd regard this LS as a "hobby car" - not something to depend on as a daily driver. I think one reason my 90 LS made it to 295K with its 2nd owner was that it was a fairly basic model with fewer gadgets to break and that both the 2nd owner and I were obsessive about maintaining cars properly. A high spec LS like you are considering will be a greater challenge. Got any photos of this beast?

Please do not hijack a thread but start a new one in the IS section to ask a question on a different subject. On the OP's question, what are "Gold" and "Platinum" warranties? I do not see any mention of them on lexus.com so my assumption is that they are service warranties from outside the Toyota/Lexus organization.

The IS trunk lid spoiler is bolted into drilled holes like most spoilers - see attached installation instructions. I wouldn't worry about the drilling - a template is used to mark where to drill the holes which makes installation just about idiot proof. IMO, the main benefit of a rear spoiler is to make parking a little easier - that's why we bought a Camry with one ... so that my 5' 1" wife can tell where the back edge of the car is. IS250_350 Rear spoiler installation.pdf

I found a bunch of reviews on various auto forums (Lexus, Mazda, Nissan, BMW) on Sensen shock absorbers and found only positive reviews. All reviews seemed to say that the Sensen shocks they bought were stiffer than OEM but acceptable. I did not find reviews on complete Sensen strut assemblies including the springs. Different springs could dramatically change the ride. I think back to the optional "DHP" (Dynamic Handling Package) suspension offered on the 1998 LS400 in the U.K. where many thought the DHP springs gave an overly harsh ride and there there were problems with the springs breaking. But maybe the Sensen springs are OK - who knows? Why are you replacing your shocks? Leaking? The ones on my 2000 LS400 are still fine at nearly 147,000 miles and the shocks on my previous LS400 were still OK when I sold it at 183,500 miles. These cars had a soft suspension when new. People who buy them as used cars sometimes assume that the shocks are worn out due to the cushy ride but that is usually not the case. I noticed that the Sensen shocks are available separately for about $160 for a set of four which is certainly far less than the almost $800 discounted price for an OEM set from Sewell. I assume that compressing the springs to change only the shocks wouldn't be any different than on other cars. Spring compressors like the ones I bought 35 years ago sell online for as little as $25.

What "most luxury cars" have steering wheels like that? I've owned a few and driven a number of high end cars and have no idea what you are looking for. The wood/leather steering wheels on most current Lexus vehicles are quite typical IMO. If you want a leather steering wheel cover: http://www.wheelskins.com/

There are already systems on cars that override what the driver is doing. Stability control systems take control of the throttle and automatically apply the brake on selective wheels to prevent loss of control. It's wonderful! Mercedes is selling cars that automatically brake - even to a complete stop - if the system senses you are going to crash into a vehicle in front of you. There are systems on cars that sense if a person is drifting out of their lane and to notify them in one way or another. For the last several years Google has been testing driverless cars on public roads in the U.S. They do have a human "co-driver" in case something goes wrong. I'm looking forward to taking a nap while my car takes me to my destination - as long as the guidance system is not made by Lucas, Prince of Darkness.

The 2001 ES300 used iridium spark plugs like my 2000 LS400 uses - the recommended change interval is 120,000 miles. When I had the iridium spark plugs on my LS changed, the old plugs looked like brand new - not a hint of burning or other deterioration. The engine did not run any better with new iridium spark plugs and I suspect that the original spark plugs might have lasted the life of the car. I do, however, recommend following your car's maintenance schedule and replacing the spark plugs at 120,000 miles. I doubt if you need to replace your spark plug wires either. Have them tested if you are concerned. This isn't the 1960's - today's ignition system wires usually last the life of a vehicle. I'm certainly not going to change the spark plug wires on our Camry V6 - same engine as the ES.

Based on your description of the car, it sounds like you need Robosaurus.

No, Paul, you are the one who is always right.

Thanks Randy and Billy. I visited the hardware store this afternoon but couldn't find a prettier screw.

Judging by what appears to be grime on the "sticker" in the second photo, my guess is that its purpose is to prevent movement of the belt from damaging the interior trim it is stuck on.

There was no "2000 430". Do you mean "2000 SC400" or "2001 SC430"?

Hmmm... but she's OK with the disguised minivans on your list?

Many, maybe most or all, Toyota vehicles have multiple fuses for the audio system. My LS has a Radio 1 fuse and a Radio 2 fuse. One is in the fuse block under the dash and the other in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Fuses are always the first thing to check. Edit: I verified that your RX has a radio 1 fuse (#25) in the engine compartment fuse box and a radio 2 fuse (#65) in the fuse box on the driver side under/behind the dash. Check the radio 1 fuse first - it's easier to get to and I know that on some models that a bad one can cause a lack of sound while the radio display continues to work OK. There "should be" a tweezer-like fuse puller stored in the engine compartment fuse box.

Here is an almost zero cost way to fix a center visor that won't stay in its up/closed position. Remove the center visor with a plastic trim removal tool - it's held in place by friction like much of the interior trim. Pry at the rear edge of the visor base to pull it down. Do not pry at the front or on the sides near the front of the visor base since it has tabs at the front that insert into the headliner and act as hinges as it is swings up into place when restalling it. The visor is held in the UP position by a metal plate which is attached to the hard plastic base with three plastic rivets. The metal plate acts as a spring. When the visor is rotated upward to its closed position, the spring/plate contacts the flat side of the plastic rod to which the visor is attached causing the visor to snap upward. It's a little hard to explain and impossible to photograph but it will be obvious if remove the center visor. What caused the visor to not stay in its up/closed position was that front plastic rivet holding the metal plate to the hard plastic visor base had failed and was no longer holding the metal plate firmly against the visor base. The flat side of the plastic rod no longer pressed firmly against the metal plate to hold the visor up ... it's a "cam action". To fix, I first removed the remains of the failed plastic rivet. I then drilled a small hole through the center of the visor base where the failed plastic rivet had been. Miraculously, I quickly found a screw, washer and nut in my gazillion hardware piece collection without making a trip to the hardware store. It might look better if I had used a screw with a black head but, as obsessive as I am, I think this might do. The little silver bolt head cannot be seen from the driver or passenger seats without trying.

Let's see. You want to be able to seat six. You want AWD. You're tired of a truck-like ride. Would you also like TPMS, DVD player, HID headlights, memory seats, etc.? Ta Da! Toyota Siennna Limited AWD. This one currently on eBay has about 8,000 miles on it and is in Florida.

Have you tried the following which is shown in the ES350 owners manual? iPod problems To resolve most problems encountered when using your iPod, disconnect your iPod from the vehicle iPod connection and reset it. For instructions on how to reset your iPod, refer to your iPod Owner's Manual.

You might try removing the HVAC blower fan and look for debris that might be causing the noise. I had a similar noise in an LS400 a long time ago that I would describe as "chirping / screeching". A shop removed the junk that was contacting the fan and causing the noise - I think it was insulation that had come loose. I remember it being a cheap fix.

And, of course, if the tires are over six years old, they should be replaced. There is a date code on the tire sidewalls - how to interpret the code can be found at tirerack.com and probably a number of other places.

I'll be surprised if you find people on this forum who have done this! Maybe try buying ten feet of windshield washer size hose and give it a try. But might want to have a repair shop or dealer do it. They might have a faster way and be better able to dispose of the fuel.

I have no experience with go-part.com but their prices for aftermarket radiators looks low unless they make it up in shipping charges.

Access to the reservoir and pumps (and to replace front marker light bulbs) is through the wheel well. You might be able get enough access by loosening just the front of the wheel well liner.

There are numerous causes of vibrations like yours which are much more common than a defective U-joint: wheel imbalance, defective tire, worn suspension parts, worn transmission or engine mounts, engine issues. It's great that you solved your vibration issue but I think yours is the first time in almost a decade on Lexus forums that I've seen anyone report a U-joint issue on an LS.

Thanks, Randy. I'll consider trying your other fixes - not the Wrigley's - if I don't find a way to fix it so that it at least seems to work properly. I don't mind spending the $70 for a new one if I can't fix it. Very little has gone wrong with this car but I may be singing a different tune if we keep it to the planned 200,000 miles.

First question: Did you forget to attach the price data?