1990LS400

Bummer about the damage. The following website might help identify part numbers if you need any new ones and show how components fit together: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1998_LEXU...EAGKA_5501.html You may not want to go that route but I see a new "instrument panel" on http://www.parts.com for $707.86. But that doesn't included air bags or the miscellaneous parts you will need. IMO, salvage companies often don't sell at enough of a discount off new part prices. 50% off retail for a used part isn't enough off when compared getting a new part at 30% off list price from a discount new parts sellers.

Here is a diagram and part numbers for the 93 Canadian spec LS400 center console area: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_LEXU...EPGKK_5806.html I am assuming that the cupholder assembly includes the little flip down door you need and is the "HOLDER ASSY, INSTRUMENT PANEL CUP", part numbers starting with "55620-". http://www.parts.com/ has cupholder assemblies for US$101.48

I found this thread by searching the IS300 forum for "AVIC": http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...508&hl=AVIC And this one: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...240&hl=AVIC

I assume any shop that works on Lexus cars would have a "Lexus Diagnostic Tester" or something similar that would work -- or at least they should. The indie repair shop where I take my car has one. Apparently not many people have the CBES/LPS settings customized. The service writer at the repair shop that customized mine told me that I was the first person who had ever asked for the settings to be altered.

I couldn't identify an "intermediate steering shaft" if one bit me in the !Removed!! In the years I've been using these forums, nearly 20 years of Lexus LS ownership and personally knowing quite a few LS400 owners., I don't think I've ever heard anyone mention replacing something they called an intermediate steering shaft. Also, there are no TSIBs on issues with something called an intermediate steering shaft. It seems quite a stretch that both your and vfr's 00 LS are having the same problem. I'd be more inclined to think that the problem has been misdiagnosed on vfr's car. The only steering column issue I remember offhand where a TSIB has been issued -- except for the tilt/telescope motor problems -- is the "groan" issue in which the flexible cable at the bottom of the steering column is replaced with a U-joint. I'm still hung up on the concept that a 00 LS with your car's low mileage is having these issues at all.

The repair manuals for my 2000 LS400 say to check the following when the "Automatic light control system does not operate": 1) ECU-1G Fuse (Instrument Panel J/B) 2) Dome Fuse (Engine Room J/B) 3) Automatic Light Control Sensor 4) Light Control Switch 5) Door Courtesy Switch 6) Body ECU 7) Driver Door ECU 8) Wire Harness ------------------------------- I assume that the fuse mentioned in #1 is in the underdash fuse box and that the dome fuse is in the engine compartment fuse box. The light control sensor mentioned in #3 is on the dash on the driver's side. When it's working, laying something on top of it can cause the low beam headlights and tail lights to be on during the day. There are lots of pages on diagnosing this problem -- way too many to scan and post here. If you would rather not purchase a manual, you can view diagnostic information for a fee at https://techinfo.toyota.com Also, the sensitivity of the automatic light control system can be adjusted -- I posted information about that in this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...299&hl=CBES Post photos of your car when you can -- it's always fun to see another Platinum LS400.

These instructions are for a 1998-99 LS400 but it is essentially the same for all 95-00 LS400: http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/Adobe/MV-50-03-L-p19.pdf The radio in a 95-00 LS is even easier to remove than in a 90-94 LS -- I've done both lots of times. Be aware that the center air vents are fragile -- be gentle but firm when prying them out so you don't break them. Their replacement cost is $hundreds. If the vents fall apart keep track of all the parts so you can snap the assembly back together. The vents on my 00 LS usually separate into a zillion pieces and it's quite a puzzle to reconstruct them -- pay attention to how the vent parts fit together in case you have to reassemble them.

OK, here is another idea based on how I have resolved a few "mystery rattles" over the years. Remove every single non-standard item from your glove box, the spaces above and to the left of the CD changer, under the seats, from the trunk -- EVERYTHING. Remove flashlights, loose CD's in cases, cassette tapes, etc. Have the car as empty as it was when you drove away from the dealership when it was new. Does the "clunk" happen with everything removed? Noise has a way of coming from places you would never suspect. I've looked all over for the sources of rattles and have sometimes found the noises coming from loose items in the glove box. Just after buying my first LS in 1990, I noticed a particularly irritating buzz coming from somewhere in the interior. I hunted all over for the source of the noise and finally found it by using a cheap automotive stethoscope. It turned out to be a loose setting in a ring on my right hand -- something I never noticed while driving my previous noisy Mercedes Diesel daily driver. Do you have a particularly rough road nearby where the "clunk" happens continuously? Maybe have someone probe the interior with a stethoscope while you drive the road to verify that the noise is coming from the steering column -- or you could probably do it yourself if you are careful. My 2000 LS400 Platinum just passed 115,000 miles two days ago -- no "clunks" or suspension noises of any kind and the only front end work that has been done has been a front brake job and replacing the strut rods.

Here is a link to the specs and options for the 05 GS which show that HID was an option on the GS300: http://www.lexus.com/contact/pdf/2005/2005GSspecs.pdf Here is a handy website that shows exterior bulb types: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/A...placementGuide/

The only way to safely and realistically tow a rear wheel drive car like your GS is to put its rear wheels on a car dolly and tow it with the car facing backwards with its front wheels on the pavement or to put the entire car on a trailer. Either way, your odometer would not be activated. Disconnecting/reconnecting a driveshaft is not a trivial operation. Unless you are desperate to save a few bucks, just buy that $113 ticket on SW Airlines from Hartford to Pittsburg -- http://www.southwest.com/ . Driving a Uhaul truck is enough of a PITA -- towing a car behind a Uhaul truck is not fun for an amateur ... words from someone (me) who once had a commercial license and towed really big stuff. Do you have any friends or relatives who are frequent flyers on SW Airlines? No, you can't have one (reserved for family members) but my wife flies on SW enough to have more free tickets than we could ever use.

I am not certain but I think the LPS/CBES setting options for the 2000 GS400/300 are the same as for the 1999 GS400/300. Again I am not sure but I think any changes for the GS started with the 2001 model year and that the settings for the 01-05 GS are all the same. Attached is the list which covers the 01 GS430/300. 2001_LS430_LPS.pdf

I agree. Why bother with aftermarket oil filters when it has been proven that Toyota/Lexus V8 engines can go hundreds of thousands of miles on OEM oil filters. Each of the last couple of 10-packs of 909215-YZZD3 oil filters, including 10 oil plug gaskets, I've bought at a local Toyota dealer has cost only $40.

The 99 GS didn't have the feature to automatically lock the doors at about 12 mph like later model years -- don't remember off hand which was the first model year that had the feature. Attached is the complete list of customizable features for a 99 GS. CBES.pdf

Isn't your car still under warranty? If it is, why bother to hunt for the problem when the dealer could take care of it on his time and at no cost to you. Besides, a bazillion obscure issues can cause the VSC warning light to come on. Have the dealer "pull the codes" and zero in on the issue.

My guess is that it would depend on the brand and model of the iPod interface. Are there any markings on the iPod connection cable? Probably the most popular iPod interfaces -- prior to the availablility of official Lexus iPod connection options -- were from VAIS. Many Lexus dealers offered VAIS products as aftermarket projects. If the interface is from VAIS, you can view operation instructions on their website: http://www.vaistech.com/products/ipod_products.php If you still can't figure it out, it could take a little disassembly of the center stack to look at the components -- likely the brand and model is written on some sort of electronic "box" similar to the ones used in VAIS products.

It looks like you need to look at your owners manual. If you don't have one, register in the owners section at https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/home and view the owners manual online and request a replacement. 1. Like all Lexus and Toyota brand 1990-2006 V8 engines, the oil filter is removed from underneath the vehicle. 2. The drain plug is on the sump at the bottom of the engine like any other drain plug. 3. I've never heard anyone using a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Just use a regular wrench and be reasonable in the force you apply like on the other cars you service. Be sure to use a new replaceable drain plug gasket each time you change the engine oil -- it is a false economy to reuse a drain plug gasket. A new drain plug gasket will also reduce the already insignificant chance that you will over-torque the drain plug and eliminate leaks. 4. All V8 engines in all Lexus and Toyota branded vehicles use the same oil filter -- I buy them by the 10 pack, including 10 oil plug gaskets, at a Toyota dealer for $40. I guess you could use another brand, but why? I'm certainly not a fan of "Bosch quality" having owned many European cars since the 1960s. 5. Consult the owners manual for engine oil capacity. Switching to Mobil 1 should not be a problem. Back in the early 1990's, Lexus/Toyota did not sanction the use of synthetic oil. My first Lexus V8 had probably 50,000 miles on it before Lexus approved the use of synthetic oil -- I switched to Mobil 1 5/30 synthetic oil and drove the car to 183,000 miles. Last time I checked the V8 engine in the old 90 LS was still doing fine at something like 275,000 miles with its 2nd owner.

Maybe the forum navigation switch expert dcfish will respond. In the mean time, I can tell you that the 98-00 LS400 navigation is poor comparied with almost any inexpensive portable navigation device that can be purchased today. The last map update for the 98-00 navigation system was way back in 2004 and it does not appear that there are going to be any more updates. Plus, the 98-00 navigation system's harddrive is only 20 megabytes -- about the size of a typical computer harddrive from the early 1980s. The number of POI's and coverage area is small compared to newer navigation devices. Your 00 LS does not have the wiring harness to support the 98-00 navigation system including the harness that extends into the trunk to mount the navigation ECU in its place under the removable floor on the right side of the trunk. I have never seen anyone confirm that the HVAC connectors on the back of the navigation unit are the same as the connectors on the back of the HVAC control module in a non-nav 98-00 LS. I suspect that they are since the ones on the 98-00 GS are the same. The only good news I have for you is that my repair manuals show that the audio system amp (under the front passenger seat) is the same for the standard Pioneer system and the navigation system. I guess anything can be done with enough time and money. The solution I went with in our 00 LS and 98 Camry was to mount portable navigation devices on brackets and wire them into the accessory circuit so they automatically turn on and off with the ignition switch ... photos and install information are here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...m&album=131 Another option is to buy an aftermarket double DIN faceplate/bracket install kit and install an in-dash aftermarket double-DIN navigation into it. A ClubLexus forum member even moved his HVAC control below his new aftermarket double-DIN navigation to raise the level of the screen to make it easier to see. An aftermarket in-dash nav install can get somewhat expensive -- usually at least $1,000.

Part numbers for items in the tool kit of the 95 European spec LS400 are shown in this diagram: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1995_LEXU....html?hl=09120A I think the towel was only in the tool kit of the 90 to 94 LS400. The tool kit of the 90 LS I used to have came with a towel but the tool kit for my 00 LS (similer or identical to the 1995 LS tool kit) does not have a place for a towel. Edit: I checked the toyodiy diagrams and saw that the European spec gen 1 (90-94) tool kit did not come with a towel. You got a wheel block and we in the U.S. got a towel! This diagram has a photo of a gen 1 US spec LS tool kit with a towel: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1990_LEXU...EPGKA_0901.html

Introducing .... (drum roll, please) .... the new Lexus LS460 trunk lid prop! The attached photo is actually the broomstick I use to prop up the hood each time the LS hood struts start to fail until I can install a new set. Seriously, the trunk on every Toyota/Lexus car (not SUV) I've owned or rented doesn't have much of a spring to hold it open like on some cars whose trunk lids spring open with enough force to take your head off and a even make it difficult pull/push down the lids to shut. I guess you could actually use some sort of prop -- maybe a ski pole would make a good "upscale" trunk lid prop befitting an LS460. If this is a frequent problem, why don't you point your car down hill in your driveway so that the trunk lid stays open.

The purpose of getting an estimate is to know the cost of repairing the car and to learn exactly what has to be done to repair the car. There is no reason to just speculate on what the repair will cost.

killer, if your car is driveable, take it to Eveland Brothers for an estimate: http://evelandbros.com/ Eveland is probably the best in town for repairing fairly expensive cars -- we've used them too many times to repair damage caused by idiots who crashed into our cars while talking on their phones instead of paying attention to driving. I'm going to take a wild guess at what Eveland will estimate the repair cost for your car would be -- $17,250. The rear of my 90 LS was crashed in in 1999 and it cost just over $10,000 to repair -- and the damage to it was not as bad as the damage to your car. Let me know how close I am. I suspect I am low on my estimate. If we can somehow get you to survive to age 20 and stop competing for a "Darwin Award", I think you'll be OK: http://www.darwinawards.com/

Jeez killer, you just got the damage fixed from when that fire hydrant jumped out in front of you: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=54501&hl= And in another post you bragged about going 118 mph in a 35 mph zone on an Overland Park, Kansas street: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...amp;hl=Overland And you are only 16 years old? You've already had more "at fault" accidents than I've had in 43 years of driving -- I've had none. I think it is time for you to stop driving a car and ride a bicycle for a while -- if you do, you definitely need to be wearing a helmet. :chairshot: I've got to do quite a bit of driving in Overland Park tomorrow -- would you mind telling me when and where you will be driving so I can make sure that I stay far, far away from you?

Yes, you get the remainder of the 4 year / 50,000 mile basic and 6 year / 70,000 mile warranties on a used Lexus. An extended warranty kicks in only after the warranties that originally came with the car have expired. I assume that the Lexus division of TMC funds the original warranties. I've never heard whether Lexus or an outside company supplies the CPO warranties.

Anybody, including you, can perform maintenance without affecting the warranty. Just document the maintenance and consider keeping relevant receipts. At least occasionally check to see if any TSIB's or other service campaigns have been issued for your car -- a lot of free work gets done during the warranty period without asking. You can see the TSIB's on the NHTSA, ARRC, and other websites. Maybe it's changed, but in the early Lexus years, TSIB's were not always issued for known problems -- I never did understand these "secret" service campaigns.

Register in the owners section on the Lexus website and you should be able to view/download your owners manual and order a replacement hard copy if you need one: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/home