92LS4008888

Maybe remove serpentine belt and see if it will run well.

BTW what problems would a dirty egr filter cause?

My mechanic who used to work at a Toyota dealer says that the emissions test result is a pretty good indicator of engine health (we are talking about CA Smog test - apparently one of the toughest). I guess it makes sense because any burning of oil or coolant or blowby would be picked up by smog test equipment. But what we are looking for are very good emission test (very low levels of emissions) results not just passing the test. Does it make any sense?? When one buys a used car, the owner might agree to do the smog or he might alrady have the smog test but usually it is tough to ask to get the vehicle tested for sompression etc. Also, i suspect that a full compression test for the V8 might run more than $100; just getting to the plugs take some time.

I flushed my using Mobil 1 ATF and so far everything is running very well.

I think the confusion comes from the fact that LS power steering comes from the factory (Toyota Japan) with a clear/amber fluid in it. All Dexron that I know about is red in color. Power Steering fluid is also amber colored. Hence the mechanics put in power steering fluid. So it is either the Japanese have a clear/amber form of Dexron (not that surprising given that Toyota has red coolant vs the typical green) or that Toyota does use a specific hydraulic fluid that is closer in formulation to Dexron than power steering fluid. My gut feeling is that the Japanese use Dexron which is tinted amber. In short use Dexron because that is what is stated ON THE COVER of the power steering fluid reservoir.

Is it safe to spray brake cleaner onto the caliper pistons and boots? Will it attack the rubber boots? I changed my rotors and pads with original Lexus parts. I suspect that my calipers is sticking because the rotors were warped and the pads were unevenly worn (unfortunately, I did not know to check the pads as the came off for wear so I do not know which side is giving problems). However I removed the sliding pins and greased the hell out of them. So far brakes are excellent, quiet and actually very powerful. If you feel that you need lots of pedal effort to stop the car, one also can look at the pads. Just buy a set of original pads and the difference might surprise you. I also have a Toyota Avalon and it took lots of effort (brake pedal travel is normal) to stop the car. I pulled the old pads, which looked brand new, and put in Toyota pads and there was a big difference.

I just read lots of folks complaining about LCA bushings. So I figured that must be it. When I bought the car, the right front tire was unevenly worn almost to the threads on the right shoulder. The car pulled to the right. I put in new Michelins in the front and did an alignment. The alignment guy said alignment was within spec. When I drove the car after the alignmnet, it still pulled to the right. So I brought it to a recommended alignment place and they said alignment was in spec too. I asked them to check bushings and they said suspension was tight. But the car still pulls to the right. It canot be the tires because these are new tires; whatever was causing the pull to the right and wore out the first set of tires has not been solved. So I figure, probably LCA bushings. The steering is vague will little self centering effort but I have been drive Front wheel drive cars and this is my first LS. Also steering does not seem precise and when going on an highway on ramp, I need to correct my steering inputs a little. There is also some steering vibration. You think it is the LCA? I am pretty confident that the shocks are gone.

I have a 92 LS 400. I am planning and budgeting to replace the Lower Control Arm bushing with Daizen bushings. I have been quoted about $400 labor for the job and the part is $100. Since I am paying the labor to do the LCA, what other part should I change at the same time so that I can save on labor. Shocks? Anything else. I am not familiar with the suspension parts that need to be removed to do the LCA. Bushings and even shocks are relatively inexpensive parts which I can order before hand and get the mechanic to put in for me, while he does the LA bushings. Thanks

Was your tranny having any problems before you flushed it?? I have a LS with 200k miles and fluid was changed 100K ago!! Car shifts very well and there is no slip. Just wondering if I should flush it completely or just do a drain and refill.

finally changed my transmission mount. Here is what you need to do: Drive the car up on a ramp (I used a Rhino Ramp) Use the jack that came with the car, together with a piece of wood, to even out the pressure point, and apply jack on tranny pan. You need to apply just enough jacking force to lift the tranny about 1/2 inch. Behind the tranny pan, you will notice a cross member. This cross member is held to the chassis by 4 14mm bolts. There will also be 4 12 mm nuts that holds the tranny mount towards center of this crossmember. Remove the 4 nuts in the center followed by the 4 bolts on the crossmember, remove the crossmember. You will be able to see the tranny mount. The tranny mount is held to the tranny by 4 bolts. Remove the 4 bolts and remove tranny mount. Install new tranny mount. Alldata list torque figures for the 12mm nut at 10 pounds and the 14 mm bolt for the cross member at 19 pounds. Is this correct? Anyone please care to comment? My old mount's rubber was pretty much squashed to the point that it was metal on metal. See attached pics: Notice that there is barely 1/8 of inch of space. With the weight of the tranny, I am sure that it was metal on metal - this means all the vibration will come through I did not have the time to take the car for a drive but I immediately noticed less vibration at idle. I am sure that the motor mounts are probably shot. However motor mounts are $110 each and labor is another $250 or so. It is too difficult a job for me to undertake. The tranny mount took me 30 minutes, the mount cost about $56 delivered from Park Place Lexus. It is a really cheap solution for those looking to reduce vibration. Anyone can do it. My car has 200K and has issue of vibration.

I am planning to change my tranny mount. Where would be a good place to jack up the transmisson, so that i can remove the mount. Can I just put a piece of wood and jack it up by the tranny oil pan? Thanks