jzz30

i think the first gen LS400 were drag limited to 149 but im sure that can easily be brocken at night tempratures and or down hill speed runs. the newer LS 400s can go a little faster cus of the increase in hp and torque.

did your chevys have timing belts that you changed or it was just the components belt you changed? you have an sc 400 right? (i read your profile) the 400 is a litle bit more complex than the 3. but if you have changed timing belts on a chevy than i think you can do it your self

i think that you are supposed to use a supra ecu and that will eliminate all of the problems. their is a guy that did this and wrote a book on this and i read the preview and thats what he wrote.

414b is an r12 alternative. its like the replacement you bought, it doesnt need an oil replacement. it might be similar as the mac-freeze, or freeze12, but its likely that it is not because 414b still affects the ozone layer, just less than r12. so the normal person can not buy it make. i know that you know that you cant mix r12 and 134a so check if the stuff you bought is comapible for r12 systems or did you already use it? does it work? and this membrane im talking about is like a valve i dont know what kind of material they use but when i changed the system over with 414 it died very quickly. those other products like the leak detector, i think can only be used when the system still works but is not blowing really cold air, unless you fill it with enough gas to get the compressor clutch to engauge. if your a do it your selfer like i am but dont want to ga as far as getting a licence just change all the seals in the a/c system including the compressor shaft seal and take it to an a/c shop and just get the system filled because the system needs to be vacumed first to get all the moisture out/ water in an r12 system can make hydro chloric acid and it will eat the aluminum pipes slowy but surley and not to mention it can cause to your compressor.

hey does anyone out there know about how much it would cost to ship a motor from japan hawaii? does it need to pass any emmisions test or anything like that?

im really "only" looking for about 500hp(as if that werent already enough) but i heard if you go above 5-600hp you cant run on pump gas?

expect to pay a little more or less than $100 for the timing belt. what is involved in changing it is for you to probably drain and remove you radiator and fan assembly then the covers that cover the front of the engine, bringing the engine to top dead center loosening the timing belt tensioner and the hardest part will probably be braking the main engine pully loose then you either carefully tap the pully off or use a puller which is recomended. taking it appart and putting it all back will take a first timer at least a day if your not sure start early in the week end if thats when you have time

i dont know about the hight but im guessing it is the same. as for the stiffness its a little softer because in japan its not an is300 is a 200 i think they use a 2sge motor same as the mr-2 but no turbo so lighter engine softer springs makes sence right?

you should check if your a/c compressor clutch has been changed i think its about $200 for parts. I changed mine and you couldnt even tell if the a/c was on it was so quiet as for changing the timing belt its fairly easy, and it helps if you have a factory repairmanual that tells you step by step with pictures on how to do things, other than that a good set of tools is all you need

a/c recharge isnt all that hard but like anything its expensive when you start cus you need to buy all the gasses but if you deal with 134a its not so expensive and its supposed to be ok for the environment but my brother and I have done successfuly many times. but one thing that you have to be careful with lexuses it that you absolutly can not use r12 substitutes like 414b. this gas will eat up a membrane in side the system that will cause the a/c to fail. I only wright this from personal experience. so its either a 134a conversion or staying with r12

if your a/c system still uses r12 refrigerant its not likely that you can fill it up your self r12 is very pricey and is not manufactured in the US any more due to invironmental issues if you really wish to purchase it you first need a licence to buy it but it is fairly easy to pass the test but then you need about $6-800 to buy the smallest amount, which i think is about 30 lbs which is enough to fill up several cars. if you go that far you still need to fix your a/c leak if there is one for that you need to get a special dye that you can see in uv light , this is added with some gas and the engine is run with the a.c on if there is a leak the dye will appear most commonly under the a/c compressor clutch area where then all the seals in the system need to be replaced because of depressurization so you end up doing the whole thing so in the end you should just take the car to the a/c repair shop to get the thing fixed

i am thinking about a conversion from a non turbo ge to a turbo gte conversion with the same motor but some of the internals are different. does anyone know if the intake manifold off the turbo motor will fit on the non turbo head along with all the electronics? is anything missing? I plan to change head gasket and pistons,and maybe valves if the turbo valves fit in the non turbo.

i was told that synthetic lubrication is so good that it isnt really good to use it in the first filling from the factory. Is this true?, that the engine will take longer to break in or has modern machining proceses gone up in tolerence so much that there is no need for such a break in process so that auto manufacturers can go ahead and use synthetic as a first filling?

i am assuming that the upper arm ball joint is bad too because when I changed the lower ball joints there was so much play that you could move it up and down with your fingers as for the strut arm bushing i really cant tell if its worn but i think i probably will just change that since i will be taking everything appart. my tires are ok I think there fairly new, they are michelin energy something or other, i would rather use brigestones but they wear a little too fast for my driving but reel much better. i have had the bad tire noise a few times about 5 years ago i think it happens when you drive over pot holes too fast with junk tires.

hey thanks ill try that!!

hi i just signed up and i have a few questions about some noise my car makes. I have a 91 Ls400 with 120k mi. and the car makes a vibrating low frecuency kind of noise I have just changed waterpump,timingbelt, and all of the tensioner bearings and of the pullies and things that spin on the front end of the engine except for the fan. the engine runs smoother but there is still noise. a mechanic friend told me that it is the engine mount. has anyone had this problem? one more question. i recently changed the lower sus.arm and ball joints on my ucf because of suspension noise, there is less noise but it still remains does anyone know if the upper arm balljoint, and or strut bar is known to go bad? Do you wish to enable emoticons for this post? Do you wish to enable your signature for this post? Post Icons [ Use None ]