jzz30

yea its straight through the hardest part might be lineing up all of the clips when you put the insulation back on.

i dont know but this happened to me and it was the fuse. its worth a look right? and maybe the trac light doesnt turn on untill the computer tries to activate the trac?

yea like he wrote the manual said that and all i could remember was it said to use compressed air...

well what your probably need to do is get dual filament bulbs and sockets that fit the housing and just splice in the the night lights and brake light wires.

well there is no real way to test it but usually if the clutch is worn it makes a metallic whining noise when the clutch is engauged but goes away when it disengages. try spinning just the compressor by hand (the clutch part)and see if there is any abnormal resistance that could cause the noise you describe.

thats allright we all make mistakes and i know you know your stuff

your trac fuse is probably blown

actually the LS has 2 coils a primary and secondary coil.

the clutch starts to make noise after a while of use try check that.

the 400 motor is direct lifter to cam, no hydraulic lifters. you need to get some good feeler gauges and measure clearance and then buy the corrected size shim. as for removal you just use a air nozzle to blow out the shim and slide in the new one.

i put together some oem toyota ballasts and bought some aftermarket bulbs, the whole setup cost me under 300 bucks.

yea i have bose in my room, its great, its compact and its better than my dads sony speakers that went for the same price and took up much more room, and its some of the best sound i have heard, but the levinson in the cars are better than the bose. K9: im in mechanical engineering. i will be in post more often soon.

no way? he was here? im in engineering i wonder how come i didnt hear about this?

you just need to take it for allignment.

some newer specs on a 1jz-with vvt-i from 97+ taken from HyperRev. compared to the older 1jz single turbo (still ceramic turbin shaft) vvt-i (of course) compression ratio: 9.0 same displacement, bore and stroke. output: 280ps@6200rpm 38.5kgm/2800rpm the biggest difference here, i think is the torque a slight gain of 1.5kgm from the eariler 1jz but max torque is reached 2400rpm's earlier.

heres the pic or drawing rather. the best widebody soarer out there i think. i especialy like the GT style vents on the fenders.

no our tuner did it, i helped on bits of it but wasnt really the main installer he almost bought a water/methonol injection kit to try and get rid of the knocking but he found the problem.

i have known some harmonic balancers to move out of place. if the crank mark doesnt match the cam mark i usually but a long screwdriver in to #1cylinder and see about where tdc is.

hehe the guy with the IS is my friend, he came to the shop where i work at to do the turbo, the car is stand alone and that PFS turbo kit costs 10G's! but not worth the money, the kit had all kinds of fitment problems and bad tech support from PFS but after everything got worked out the car was fast! it made 370hp to the wheels and the torque was right there too. its one of those cars that make you go holy sh!@#t as it boosts. but the sad thing is he just sold it a few weeks ago for a big loss, i think he sold it for 28k or something like that. anyway alittle side tracked, he just disconnected the vacume hose and all was fine i dont see haw removing it would hurt if not help.

its still under development and its just a picture on a magazine but i will try to scan it and post it.

if you have a Napa around your area that mixes paint, they have a color chart for various manufactures, you can see the different whites used there.

good to hear!