VBdenny

One of the biggest pains in cleaning a car is drying it after a wash. Most people say ahhhh.. and just let it dry. That's fine for some people as their cars look like crap anyway. For those of us who must have a absolutely clean car, it must be dried. It use to take me two towels and wringing and stuff. A friend of mine turned me on to California Water Blades about two years ago. Man, it's like a squeege and it takes 95% of the water off so you can just dry it with a towel. With the wax I use (Collinite #845 Insulator Wax http://www.collinite.com/), it looks like I just waxed it. I just bought a California Duster as well. You dudes in Cal know your stuff because I conside them a must have. Anyone else use a CWB?

I was in NJ earlier in the week and it rained, I'm in Virginia Beach now and it's raining. Matter of fact it's been raining all year. Regard just letting your car dry after washing, I guess you learned not to do that. You must have a California Water Blade. They are under $20, in fact they have a two pack at Costco for under $20. Whip the water off with it , then dry off with a towel.

No don't put Turtle Wax on your Lexus. After cleaning the car with detailers clay, I use Maquires #1 Paint Cleaner to remove any old wax, road oil, and to rub out scatches. I then apply two or three coats of Collinite's #845 Insulator Wax. I've been waxing cars for many years and I've used just about every kind made. Most waxes will give a good shine, but the shine doesn't last. My brother turned me I'd never heard of it but since my brother swore how great it was I agreed to try it. He tried the #845 Insulator Wax after he got a sample at the Syracuse Natins Hot Rod show at the NYS Fairgrounds. Since he went on and on about how it shined and protected after a long upstate winter, we bought a case of 12 bottles and split it. Well I'd say that one bottle would last the average person the rest of their life because it goes so far. A case cost us about $120 including S&H. I think you have to buy a case. After doing all my vehicles, I gave away all my other waxes because I know I'll never use them again. I'll include their website so you can read about it as they have several products. Anyway, heres the address http://www.collinite.com/ I'll also attach a picture of it on my LS400. You will NOT be disappointed!

maybe we could plan something at floyd bennett field next summer. usually it helps to plan far enough ahead. i knoe brooklyn is cool, so should everyone else. we could all do a coney island cruise for nathans dogs or something. there is also that nice park right by the verrazano bridge that would be good. i'm off every summer so i could help with plans.

I wash each of my cars, including my 400, several times a week. If it doesn't rain, I use a california duster. I usually wash the vehicles laste at night, sometimes after midnight. I like to wash at night because it's much cooler and also the soap doesn't dry before you have done the whole thing. I put two huge floodlights up on the top corners of my garage, so I have plenty of light.

Well, I do have the 400 back for awhile. My wife gets annoyed because I have a new truck and a Caprice and a 66 Cutlass. How many cars do I need? All of them! She has the Chevy for awhile while I do brakes and A/C on the Lex. The minute I fix the air, she'll have the Lexus back. Anyway, I bought it for her because she is so sweet! I just didn't know what a great car it was when I bought it. I always though a Lexus was just a fancy Camry. Was I wrong!

My A/C compressor doen't turn and the light doesn't blink, just steady green. I checked the codes and got 21 and 33. I really appreciate the advise on removing the battery and tray to get at it. Now that I went and looked at it I see what you mean. Do the compressors come with oil, or do you have to add it? I'll assume the come evacuated. Luckily, I have 30lbs. of R-12 which I bought at Costco for $79 (in about 1990). so I won't need to retrofit for R-134a or anything. Any other tips would be helpful. Do you have a number for Pace?

Sounds like a cool idea. Whatcha got in mind?

Apparently, the tire compounds used on low profile tires is fairly soft. This gives the car a smoother ride and makes it sticky in corners. The trade off is increased tire wear. Look at the sideway of the tire and it will give a TREADWEAR TEMP and TRACTION rating. For example my Michelin's say TREADWEAR 680 TRACTION A TEMP B. A rating of 100 is suppose to be about 18,000 miles but in reality, it's probably about 15,000. The low profile tires on my daughter's car were worn out enough after 20,000 miles that they needed replacing, but my wife spun it on the Interstate when it was iced up, and totaled the car before I changed them. Tire wear also depends on how you drive. I go fairly slow around Interstate exit/enter ramps. Whipping around them (as my wife does) puts excessive wear on your tires. In NASCAR they only get about 200 miles to a set of tire. Congrats on the new car, I hope you post a picture of it.

I don't get any noise from mine. I did spend time cleaning all the shims but I'm sure you did as well

I called Lexus about a rear caliper rebuilt kit (OEM# 0447950102) They priced it at $34.13 BUT it was way back ordered. I asked about a replacement caliper,(which they had in stock) $365. Luckily, he gave me the name of a local parts supplier that sells Lexus parts. They had the rebuild kit for $24.60. They also have a rebuilt caliper with pads and warrenty for $94. I ordered the caliper and pick it up tomorrow. They guy did recommend using Lexus pads which these were not. Mine are new so I'll just do a switch. I also inquired as to whether or not they ship and he said they do. He said it was okay to post there name. Might be a good place for comparision shopping. Bap/Geon 612 First Colonial Rd Virginia Beach, VA 757-425-7100 Another place that saved me a whole lot of money. VBdenny I'll take pictures and post when I replace it.

Can't be to happy with the cement. Unfortunetly, they call it cement for a reason. I suppose I would try soaking it with water and then work very carefully with a straight-edged razor blade. My neighbor had something like that happen to him at the Navy base and eventually ended up with a repaint. Since this is really expensive, I'd call your insurance company or sue the construction company.

Since my A/C stopped working, I did the AUTO REC and came up with codes 21 and 33. I saw the 33 was something about a sensometer. I would be interested to find out what 21 means since I didn't see anyone else that had that one posted.

When I first bought my LS400 last year and had to put some money into it last year, it kinda freaked me out. After driving the car for that time, and more importantly, after doing my own repairs, I have developed quite a respect for this car. Everything is beautifully engineered and easy to understand. I am aware that it takes significantly longer to understand how the components are assembled, but once understood, the quality of the engineering is clear. Seeing as how I gress with several other members that the key is to doing your own maintenence, I do all of my own now. I figured that it's a better way of spending my time than watching TV or video games. Denny

I gotta kinda agree with Todd, but if you only tow your motorcycle, that's cool. I think it's against some kind of rule to tow a U-Haul trailer with a Lexus. Just kidding. I had the same hitch at U-Haul for a Chevy I use to have and they're good because they bolt to the frame.

Sweet! I know you enjoy the smoothness. Vibration is really annoying, I just got back from Jersey with my truck which only has 19,000 miles and it has a vibration at 85mph which seems to increase with speed. I suspect it is tires because it came with cheap General Grabber tires. Glad the rim fixed your rig.

Never been under a 99 400 but I imagine it's about the same. Yeah, you'll have to remove the splash pan. Then it's real easy. Any auto parts store that sells oil is suppose to take the used oil for free.

Thanks Rich, Excellent information. Sometimes it's difficult to start, without a starting point. I'll check this stuff out this week and let you know if I get any codes. Denny

I'll bet they took your money quickly though!

Brakes on the LS400 are VERY easy to change. The hardest part is getting off the lug nuts that some idiot had torqued on so tight, I had to slip a peice of conduit over the lug wrench for leverage. VMF posted a diagram of the brakes. The only tools you'll need are a 14mm wrench (there is one in the on-board tool kit), a 10mm wrench for the bleeder (also included) and a C-clamp. 1. Jack up car remove wheel 2. put the tire or safety stand under the car (unless you are brave) 3. Remove lower 14mm bolt, do not remove top bolt. 4. Take a digital picture or look at VMS's posting) so you know what all the parts are (they are logical and simple). 5. Hold the pads and shims and rotate inner caliper out. 6. Clean off caliper boot (if you want, prevents future sticking) 7. Place a small pice of wood or metal over the caliper piston and using a c-clamp, compress the piston back into the cylinder (this allows you to fit the new pads over the rotor) BUT!!!! 8. AS YOU COMPRESS THE PISTON INTO THE CYLINDER, OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE. tHIS PREVENTS DAMAGE TO THE ANTI-LOCK SENSORS. They could be damaged by not doing so but not always). 9. Remove old pads and shims while examining exactly how they are aligned (also very easy). Remove the two wear sensors and install on new pads. 10. Reassemble pads, shims and springs (not difficult) 11. Pull outward on the caliper (it's on a sliding shaft) and push the assembly down over the rotor (smooth as silk) 12. Install 14mm bolt you removed. 13. Put on wheels and tighten. 14. Don't brake hard (unless you have to not hit something) until pads "seat" (about 500 miles or less). 15. Go out to dinner with a small part of the money you saved. In some situations, the rotor may be damaged if the old pads were down to the metal. Depending on how bad they are scored, you may want to have them turned. In the past, I've driven other cars with majorly scored rotors and they do fine but they do wear out the new pads quicker, If I'm wrong on any of this I would appreciate any corrections or tips so everyone knows. Hope this helps Denny

Soem parts of the country use "oxygenated" fuels for pollution control. I have heard regular use of these fuels can cause problems. Most likely it's something like the fuel injectors kinda clogged. I know people are opposed to fuel additives but I would use a bottle of either Slick 50, fuel system treatment, or Valvoline fuel system treatment. $10 a bottle (don't use ant cheap stuff or anything else as I tried them). It works very well for cleaning injectors. I only use it when I need it. I'm getting 24.3 MPG on the highways, when I see a drop, I check stuff out. All you can lose is $10 to try it.

I'm going out to a junkyard Weds. As always, I look for Lexus cars however, you just about never see one. I suspect the cheapest place to get one is a a junkyard but there are many many IN junkyards. If I do find one, I'll get in touch with you. Maybe someone else knows where there is one.

Interesting RED light on the Fram filters. I use the XG filter, not the regular one. Man, I have used these for years without any problems. I change the (synthetic) oil and filter every three thousand miles. From what I've seen, the X-2 Frams filter works great. Please let me know why you think a standard Toyota filter is better? Perhaps, I'll need to reconsider. Ref. http://www.framx2.com/

Soory, but the back looks too much like a Camry for me. The original Lexuses were easily distinguishable from other cars, Lexus seems to be moving in the opposite direction. I have no doubt the LS430's are as excellent as ever, I'm just short about 50 grand at the moment.

My 90 does that same thing. It worked great, then the compressor stopped turning, the clutch isn't engaging. I took it to a dealer and they said the compressor was "locking up". I know there is usually an automatic circuit breaker to prevent damage when the charge is low but I'm not sure on the Lexus. I suspect there is some type of lockout for the compressor. I was under the car yesterday looking at how to get at the compressor to change it when I was doing an oil change. Man, it is kind of buried up there behind the oil filter. Before I change the compressor and dryer, I would really like to know if I really need a new compressor, or if it could be the clutch engage. I think I'm going to have it checked out at another place for a second opinion. I know the dealer can fix it, it's just that I know they will say I need everything and charge a couple of thousand. I will state one thing I DO know. Driving a LS400 in the summer without A/C is torture!