Bubbles

That's odd, I can't even find my own post. Good thing I saved this writeup: The 92' sc300's power non-heat leather DRIVER side weighs in at .............. 71lbs, including brackets and headrest. The power non-heat leather PASSENGER side @ 59 lbs, A 94' Supra TT leather DRIVER's seat with power tilt/slide weighs 49 lbs w/ brackets. The PASSENGER side without any power weighs 37 lbs. Coincidentally, the seats are both 22 lbs less than stock. My experiences with the swap: -Taking off the original seats are hard. The seat track has four covers; three of them there are little tabs, you have to take a screwdriver and somehow pull the tab outward. -Supra seats bolt right on. -It lowers up up to ~3 inches but minimum of about 1 inch from stock seats. -My build of 140 lbs and seats hug me perfectly. My waist is 32. My friend is 200 lbs and I'll see how he reacts to the seat. -The tan color of supra is more brown than the tan of my sc (maybe my interior is gray...) -Since I've been lowered an inch or two the 5-speed shifter is relatively taller now. Shifts feel awkward. -Driving seems faster now that I've been lowered. -The headrest I don't know how to adjust. It's on the bottom mark right now and the top of the headrest is about 1.5 inches above my ear (I'm 5'9")

You're the first to give some nice pictures. I have my winter break right now, so I'm going to start with my Daizen bushing replacement. I was wondering where you got that ball joint separator. I have little knowledge of ball joints, but when you used the ball joint separator, did you reuse the ball joint, or did the new control arm have a new ball joint? I don't want to :chairshot: my ball joints.

free???

Nice picture. Very clean. I love your headlights; it's crystal clear. Just watch out when it rains. Those tires are wide.

If you make another pipe from the right grill, you'll end up routing bugs and water to the filter. Just remember that there's a limit for the amount of air the car will take until the fuel management gets wacko. Let alone that if the air is coming too fast (say if you travel 100+ mph every day) the filter might break.

Different looks. Toyota Supra is faster b/c lighter (about 300 pounds), Lexus SC300 is more comfortable (more insulation = more weight). Possible insurance difference. For some reason the SC300 is tested at 225 hp @ 6000 rpm while the supra is 220 @5800 rpm, even though they have the same 2jz-ge engine (It could be the airbox or exhaust). Supra is about 2 inches lower and one inch wider, but the SC300 is about 14 inches longer. Supra is a liftback (hatchback) while SC300 is a coupe. I don't think any of them have wings/spoilers. Supra's road grip is better due to it's 225/50ZR16 Front, 245/50ZR16 Rear tires (1996). SC300 is 225/55VR16 all four wheels (1996). So basically the rears on the supra is wider than the front so the car will understeer a lot unless you do some weight shift or power oversteer. But then again the weight distribution is good 51/49 compared to SC's 54/46.

The only "mods" I did were the BFI and perhaps resealing the headlights or rewaxing the car. Resealing the headlights is just like the BFI cuz you gotta take out the headlight anyways.

You don't need anything else. Shocks would seem practical to replace along with springs. If you have a mechanic take apart the components, you might as well change the shocks (perhaps aftermarket) because it costs money to take the wheel and other components off. If you do it yourself, you are going to need to rent a spring compressor available at some autohardware stores (kragen, pepboys).

hmm... don't you need to take out the headlight to make the plastic cardboard chamber? The insulation shield helps block air from deflecting from the airbox. Basically you'll get more air at lower speeds. At higher speeds that might be a bad thing (full throttle sucks in too much air for computer to deal with).

If you want to save gas you can try the BFI cold air intake. If you keep the RPMs below 3500 and no full throttle you should be able to save gas. It'll cost you about $15 or depending on what tools you have (screwdriver, rachet, saw). I did it on mine and I'm not sure as to what mileage I used to get, but right now I get 21 mpg on a manual sc. I give it a run through the canyon once before every fill up and that eats a ton of gas.

I'm not positive but maybe it's the fuel tank cap gasket, hence fuel leaking out of filler hole. Manual says to replace it every 6 years/ 60,000 miles. If not that it is possible to take out the fabric wall in the trunk to the fuel tank. The clips that hold it are tricky; pull the panel down a bit to take a look at the clips.

it's maintenance not maintinence

It's in your owner's manual. There's schedule A, and schedule B. A is for most cars. You might want to change the spark plugs. One way to check to make sure you need to is open up the hood and look for the spark plug (ignition) wires. There's six of them. They should have a date printed on them. Usually wires are changed at the same time as spark plugs. If the wire is older than 72 months (6 years), then it would be a good time to change them. Stock Denso brand is good. For the air filter, if you want to save money, take some compressed air and blow out the particles from the back side of the filter, then do it from the front side. Stock Denso brand is good, you can try K&N it might increase airflow and it's reuseable so long term it might be good. I'm a little worried about the filtration performance of K&N filters because they state that over time the filtering gets better and better, hence the filter gets clogged up fast yet they state horsepower increases. As for the starter, I have the same situation on my manual sc300 w/ 130k. Change oil every 3 or 4 months, 3-3.75k miles, whichever is first. Check to see when the timing belt was changed. It needs to be changed every 60,000 miles.

I should try that. My cd player didn't work ever since I bought the car 4 months ago. The CDs would load but the console display would show "Error". Being a little lazy and wanting more performance, I decided to unbolt it and save me 20 pounds =~ 1.25 hp.

Stiffness is a matter of opinion. However, there is freeplay of the clutch. Maybe the clutch pedal is too tight. I think the owner's manual give information on checking it.

Holy crap... your's is dirty, my whole underside is brown. I thought that could be the underbody coating, but I managed to turn the rear suspension crossmember from brown to shiny black. I'd probably get kick in the pants acceleration once I scrape all the mud off. My car looks like redsully; the differential has wet black gunk all over it.

I'd like to get a Greddy/Trust MX dual exhaust, but it is expensive. Stores sell it at around $800. Not sure where to get them. For Eibach Pro-kit Springs the cheapest store I've found is ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2430351277 I'm not sure if ebay is a good place to buy springs; I have a feeling that the springs for sale won't be eibach springs. Next up is: http://www.adventon.com/acb/showprod.cfm?&...ctGroup_ID=1704 The cheapest price for an online store from what I've researched. Don't know the reputation of the company. There's also: http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/br...make/lexus.html I hear this company a lot. Never did business with them, but they do carry the Daizen bushings, so I'm guessing it's a good company. Prices aren't as cheap, but less than building retailers.

It's just the word drifting that got my attention. I don't have an IS3.

Man... I'm sorry that the car is gone, but at least your ok. Seems like you've only had the car for a short time. Maybe that's good because you didn't have to bond with the sc too much. No offense or anything, but what exactly happened? Was it raining, did the car oversteer/understeer? I just want to know so we can all prevent this from happening again. I was driving my 86 mercedes in the rain and I accelerated a little to much and the tail slipped right off. I did the counter steering where I would steer all the way to the left when the car was sliding to the right. I managed to only hit a curb with the front wheel and I needed to rebalance it.

Nice. Now you can feel all that downforce going on to your car. I'm too lazy to make one. Instead I'm doing routine maintenance on the car. BTW, I changed the coolant on my sc300, but I can't find the engine drain plug. Does anyone know where it is? The manual has a crappy drawing of the location.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ct=ST&f=3&t=84& SC300 should have more insurance costs than prelude, but I'm not postive on that. You should let your parents register for the car and they pay for insurance and say that you're a secondary driver that only drives 2 miles to school. The manual transmission sc300 are from 92-97 (not sure of 97). In my opinion, I'd go with a 95 (or whatever the year with obd I; 94,93,92) I don't know what stock engine code means but I'm guessing it's the 2jz-ge engine and the whole car is the jzz31. The 2jz-ge engine is inline-6 with cast iron block with alluminum alloy cylinder heads and pistons. It is rated at 225 hp and 210 ft-lbs torque. There is a website: www.planetsoarer.com that has information on making your own ~$15 intake. Many people including me say it is the best intake possible. The only headers I've found are from Xerd and someone on this forum said someone had bad experience with it on a supra (same engine). I don't know what "c" is in "i/h/c/e" but I'm guessing it's cam gears, not sure on that one. Exhaust would help but I think the 2jz-ge engine was designed mainly for the stock exhaust (the sc pipe has two 5 mm pipes after the cat). There are turbo availible for sc300. There is the engine swap to 2jz-gte (supra tt) which will be around $11,000. There is the turbo kit which is about $5000 for parts and you might need fuel injectors too. There is also a 1jz-gte engine that is a Japanese market 2.5 liter twin turbo and marketed on the japanese version of the sc300. That swap I would only do if you absolutely needed to lighten up the front end of the car. The 1jz is not going to pass smog in california and there won't be many parts to fix the engine if it breaks. If you can't get the sc300, you should get the prelude type sh. That's because the the ATTS system that helps reduce the understeering of the car. If you don't get the type sh, you basically have a good looking integra. The advantage of the prelude over sc is that prelude is lighter in weight and better gas mileage. The advantage of sc over prelude is that sc is more luxurious, rear wheel drive, and higher top speed (like that matters). The prelude and sc300 accelerate at pretty much the same speed of low 7 seconds. manual sc300's are going to be harder to find than manual preludes. Transmission swaps, in my opinion, are not worth it because with those thousands of dollars changing the transmission you might as well go ahead and buy a plane ticket to find a 5-speed sc300.

The sc300 is kind of heavy for drifting. Due to the market group that buys sc300's, there aren't many performance aftermarket parts for handling, however I did read that the 4th gen supra has many interchangeable parts. For stock solo II autocross, your up against the toyota supra n/a. The supra n/a is basically a de-luxuritized 300 pound lighter sc300. 240sx is very tough to find. Even the ones you find have mechanical problems. My older brother has a 91 toyota mr2. Seems like a good car because there's no power steering and it's mid engine. Only problem is that it's n/a and the engine is a little underpowered to power oversteer on 205mm wide tires. He got his for 4800 which is also a rare find.

Man I was hoping no one would want to buy volume 2. My volume 2 on ebay was missing some pages on the audio section. After seeing 18 or so bids I left it alone. Good job getting it. But honestly, volume 1 seems more important (engine maintenance).

I don't have an sc400, but I think the sc400 shares the same engine as the ls400. The ls400, if maintained well, should last over 200,000 miles.

I'm biased towards Yokohama. The name just matches with Lexus (toyota). Basically any high-performance summer tire that's not run-flat will make everything better. Here is my favorite article on handling including tyres: http://autozine.kyul.net/technical_school/..._handling_5.htm Basically, a section of the article states that many newer RWD cars (1980+) have been engineered to understeer more for safety (less sensitive to spin out). Part of it is due to larger rims and wider tyres. Read on and it gets interesting (start from page 1).