Bykfixer

here ya go https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bilstein Click on parts catalog at the top left and take it from there.

How clear are the lenses? If they look like glass Sylvania halogen should be good. If they aren't clear as glass a 3m headlight restore kit can make your lights seem a lot brighter.

Wanna buy a bridge Mac? Cause if you believe that either side of those DC crowd has your back I have a bridge for sale……cheap.

We already tax aplenty, we just spend too much. Pay the politicians $1 a year and they'll go home a lot sooner.

When you're 22 the 20 years from then seems like it'll never arrive. When it does arrive you wonder at what point did you skip 15 of them.

Ya mean I don't have to keep a 2x4 in the back anymore? Right on!! Welcome aboard scchen.

You may also check into replacing spark plug wires and distributor cap. I changed plugs on a vehicle and it did fine for a while, then it ran rough again, which led to changing distribtor cap and rotor button. White soot buildup caused intermitent conductivity. When it ran like crap again I took it to a shop who replaced the wires and all was good again.

Very good info 99yoToya96. Thank you!! Welcome to the site. I learned as a bridge inspector that a given torque applied assures proper tension (as in amout of pressure applied between two items) so adding lube can reduce the resistance as the bolt tightens, which can result in an increase in that tension beyond what one or both items was designed for. Too much clamping force can weaken a wheel or stretch the stud. One other thing many may not consider is warping a brake rotor when over tightening occurs. So applying lubricant can also contribute to that. On bridge bolts and traffic signal mast arms wax is applied as a rust inhibitor but that is factored into the pressures applied and confirming the numbers using sample bolts. We use dial type (not to be confused with beam type) torque wrenches as using a clicker can be slightly inacurate and often times folks like to confirm click 1 with a click 2. That is also a no no. Click once and stop. Also don't forget to have your torque wrench calibrated.

New guy here, just wondering how often long time members check in and look around. Please stop in and say hello, won't ya?

I like to tell people my family crest has a blue oval in it. Yet these days Ford aint what it used to be. Even the fabled F-150. My company issued work truck has what sounds like rod knock and has since day 1. Ford says "oh it's the fuel pump, nothing to be concerned about". And there is not a lamp in the floor up front. Only this LED thing in the ceiling you don't dare look at after dark or you see spots for a while. Oh it has plenty of giddy up and go, but for how long? My company is about to swap the truck for an Explorer. Another fabled vehicle that just feels cheap when you close the door. I test drove it recently and thought "man I sure would like them to issue me a Lexus, a Toyota, heck even a Hyundai"…… and I'm a Ford guy. Yet these days rooting for a Ford is like rooting for that Washington football team, you have to be a true fan. I used to subscribe to consumer reports simply for the annual used car guide. But when issue after issue no longer focused on good washing machines but instead the perils of laundry detergent waste I just let the subscription end. I read it for product reviews, not to be lectured on how my choice of soda pop container may lead to extinction of the doa doa bird. Nope I had the Sierra club magazine for that. Now the used car guide used to state how even though cars were becoming more and more reliable some of the ratings of them were being down graded. Not because the car was lousy but because "consumer reports was raising the bar" they'd say. My subscription had run out before the Lexus was born. But each day I drive about 150 miles to and from my job and folks, there are still a whole bunch of old LS cars out there. Being a new (to me) 2004 GS owner I look for that old school Lexus grill each day. There are a lot of what Dragnet character Joe Friday called "late model sedans" with the famous L badge on the road. Actually although I've never officially counted I think I see more classic grill'd Lexus each day than the Darth Vader grill'd ones. Apparently Mazda has begun an in house auto tranny production instead of out sourcing. And with that apparently comes Mazda durability.

Here's an 11 minute story about how Lexus came about by my favorite car nut.

The knock sensor is a microphone that listens for knocks inside the motor. It often resembles a spark plug sticking out of the block somewhere. In your case it looks like a bolt. Being it sticks out of the block means it's usually deep down into the abyss of microscopic space to move around. So often mechanics quote expensive prices to replace it. I'm not familiar with your automobile but will say if the knock sensor is original it may simply be the connection point between the wire to your computer and the sensor itself has enough corrosion to cause lack of electrical connection. Or over time the sensor itself has broken due to 20 years of a vibrating engine. If you have gone to the trouble to unplug the darn thing and clean the connection point it's a good time to replace the sensor. One thing I learned is wrapping it with a little teflon tape before installing soaks up some of the vibration and can aid in lifespan. Now if your motor is actually knocking enough to cause the sensor to hear it changing the 02 sensor is probably not going to help. Bad 02 sensors usually cause the engine to add more fuel to the combustion, which probably won't cause a knock. If over time the motor oil was not changed often or a filter a tiny bit of residue on the main bearings could cause a knock. There is such a tiny gap between the bearing and block that it doesn't take much to cause one to get too hot. But on a happy note it's probably the knock sensor is the issue. Now if your friend says "I didn't know they made those with diesel engines" then you probably have a knock. This video may help.

Curves

There is no off switch if that's what you mean.

Gotcha, Again the junkyard is your friend. I learned how to disassemble and reassemble the 3rd gen Honda Prelude stem to stern at a junkyard. Using the wishlist I knew when one arrived and would either take a section apart or study how something was assembled and fix mine with the knowledge.

Your car has built in traction control(s). It was not built to do burn outs. Burnouts mean loss of traction. Loss of traction means slower times at the authorized quarter mile race track.

https://www.partrequest.com/auto-parts-detail/1999-2003-lexus-rx300-rear-seat-lower-center-cup-ho-383883753974 $30 plus shipping I'd try your local auto recycle center as well. Often they have web sites with a wish list type of thing where you type in the vehicle you want parts from and the range of years for the model like 99-03 Lexus RX300 and they will send you an email when one arrives.

HMMMMM

I tell the kids to leave a message because I don't normally answer calls from numbers I don't know. I remember as a kid (170 something) my nearly deaf dad would let the phone ring. My mom while busy doing something would say "answer the phone, would you?" He'd say "it's just a salesman"……frustrated she'd answer it only to discover he was correct.

I had a similar issue where the new battery had a bad cell but showed 12 volts anyway. My old school mechanic (now retired) tested each cell and found two were slightly over volted and one was under volted. He explained to me that there are 6 cells and each should have around 2 volts. If I recall correct two were at 2.4 and one was at 1.6 so the tester showed things were fine in total. I took the battery back to the auto store where the guy did a load test and saw that it did have a bad cell so he replaced it. When they place a regular tester on the terminals it just checks total voltage. My mechanic had a diagnostic machine that showed all kinds of stuff, but he would then check things the old fashioned way. He was the sort of mechanic where if your car would not start he'd stick a rod into the fuel tank to make sure it had gasoline regardless of what the gauge said it had. Anyway, it sounds like it has a bad cell.

Nice!!

Woohoo!! Thanx for the update. How do you like the sound?

Ugh! We all get them. Now that nearly everybody has dropped Ma Bell type phone service and gone cellular so have the robo calls. Some phones let you block them. But if you are expecting the Maytag man to call from a strange number saying he's enroute or your kids borrow phones from friends because they forgot to charge theirs……it's not always practical to block those unfamiliar numbers. So today (while expecting a call from a delivery service) I saw on my ID a familiar looking number so I answered it. Turns out it was an auto insurance sales call. He starts out "so I see you have auto insurance and I can save you money". Most hang up at that point. My reply was "sir I do not own a car"… to which he replies well I suppose you don't need insurance". I was surprised at how he kept his composure so I said "well hang on a second, can you insure my shoes to cover me accidently collideing my foot against somebodys butt?" He said "of course not" so I asked "can you provide me collision insurance for my bicycle in case I smash into a parked car while intoxicated?" By then he was ready to hang up on me instead of the other way around. How do you handle robo calls?

Q

Welcome aboard Zambie. Without knowing the specifics about your JVC head unit I would say yes you can simply tie your amp to the head unit and be good to go. Without knowing the specifics of your JL amp I cannot say for certain every speaker and the subwoofer would work though. Some use a 4 channel amp where the front speakers are powered by 2 channels, the sub powered by the other two (being bridged into one) and let the head unit drive the rear speakers. If you prefer your soundstage to be from the rear use the amp to drive rear speakers and head unit the front speakers.