nc211

I wish I could go that low amigo, but I need to try and recoupe some of my losses on those parts, if possible. Unfortunetly, I was kidding about delivering it to you myself, simply because I don't have the time. I'm gone for the 1st three weeks of September, then all over the place after that. In my business these days, the scramble is on with this stocks and bonds market acting all screwy with rates. I've had to delay my enrollment into the MBA program from October to Jan,08 because of it. Let me see if it sells here first for my asking price. If I have no luck, let's talk privately, and maybe I can arrange to have it hauled to you. I'm buying the front caliper bushing repair kit soon, but not going to install them myself, just give them to the next owner. They need to be replaced, I didn't do it a few months ago when I cleaned up the pistons and such.

Ahh, ok, cool, thanks for the clearification! Yeah, I've got the black interior pieces. Coming in today, and while on our drive last night, I didn't even realize we were in 4th gear the whole time, and not the 5th. I still couldn't hear or feel the engine whatsoever, but looking at the dash this morning at the light, i noticed 4-d. Slid the gear shifter over to the right, and a light bulb in my head came on "oh, 5th, ok..". I do have to clean it up inside. The previous owner was clearly a smoker, and i can smell it. I've got one of those Brissell cleaners with all the attachments at home, so I'm going to steam scrub the interior this weekend to get that smell out. I love that back window feature, just love it! Need to get some advice on what aftermarket stereos will fit in the oem slot, and still work with the steering wheel controls, in the future. I'm tapped out at the moment, but probably next spring I'll replace the stereo if possible. I've got the basic cd/tape/stereo, which is a little weak, but plenty good. I'm soooo itching to go off-road, I can't stand it! Haven't had a capable 4x4 in 10 years.... Man, can Toyota build a vehicle... They're simply the best. No rattles, no nothing, just pure bliss.

yeah, you're right about letting it go....but i won't let it go to a teenager for his 1st car. it's too much car for that, and i would feel horrible, just horrible if i found out they were being teenagers and got hurt. I myself have had one too many close calls with the handling, and i'm a professionally trained driver for that sort of stuff. spent years in the movie business, and was trained to drive both offensively and defensively. had to, had to drive some pretty rich folks, and it wouldn't be good if they got hurt by the drivers inexperience. The LS is elusive in that regard. it can, very easily, lead you into trouble without the "talent" to get you out of it. I'll post up some pictures soon. We got out of the dealership, took a long drive with all the windows down and roof open "love that back window feature", by the time we got home, it was dark and starting to rain again. I must say, I'm excited by this change!! I have a very very very good feeling this 4Runner is going to be a great experience. There is nothing about it that gives away it's 51k mileage, except the odometer. not a scratch on it, not a rattle, not a single vibratoin, and for the life of me I tried to get that thump to kick in, but had zero luck. I'm wondering if I misjudged the salesmen taping of the brakes as the thump. It certainly drives differently, but not in a bad way. I called the local Toyota dealership to discuss the thumping problem on some. They have a technique they swear lasts for about 30k miles, by drilling out the yolk setting and flushing the grease. When I asked how much it was, being a lexus guy and preparing for doom, I was school girl giddy when he said $89! I said "you're b/s'n me! it's $105 for just an oil change at the lexus dealership!" He said "lexus parts, not lexus costs" I called the dealership back and said "sold!" Got it for $2,500 under blue book. Time for NC to spend some time underneath, put a little seafoam in the crankcase and then flush the oil for some mobile 1, replace the differential fluids in both differentials, and just drive baby drive. Loving this 4runner already! I don't think I"m going to miss the leather seats either. Sure am tired of sticking to it in the summer. And that automatic steering wheel is nice, but when it acts up, it's like Michael Bolton dealing with the fax machine in the movie Office Space "oh yeah, you like it like that, give it to me, you "! Home Depot, here I come...via the local muddin' hole! It is the SR5 model, 4.7 V8, 4x4, has some kind of oversized crome exhaust, looks like TRD gear, not aftermarket. I assume that's a performance accessory? Got metal gas and brake peddles with black rubber grips. That part of the "sport package" as the original window sticker says it has? Haven't a clue what the difference is from the SR5 to the non SR5?? EDIT: Here are the photos from the online ad..

picking it up tonight, closed the deal this morning. The LS is now up for sale... going in the paper soon. issues here and there are ok with me. my main concern is getting out the LS before something happens to it down the road, like the starter going out, or ac, or something big like that, that I can't handle myself. Plus the age of the car, and several model years old, the parts are now starting to creep up there in price. At some point, dimishing returns comes into effect, and putting that kind of money into the car, especially after all I've done already, just makes no sense to me. It'll be a GREAT car for the next owner, no doubt about it, will go for many many many more miles and years, but after 3.5 years and 50k miles under my ownership, its time for me to move on to something different. I will miss "her", and won't sell it to someone I think will abuse it, or some 16 year old that will get hurt in it. Already turned down an offer from a 16 year old in my neighborhood last night. Told him this is the wrong car for him, as it is very fast but handles like a wollowing elephant. A kid will no doubt take a turn too quickly for the car, and trouble will result. I can't sleep at night with that in my head.

for you army, i'd deliver it myself. this is your kind of car. Got in it today, and guess who's radio read out now says -M, instead of FM.... need Walker's magical touch soon on the LCD for the stereo.

The IS300 and the other cars you mention certainly offer more in terms HP and certain areas of refinement, and even space. But don't be fooled by the Mazda's size on the outside, we're capable of fitting 4 in it quite comforably, and we have the sedan version, not the wagon. It fooled me too. The 3 or 4 times we've gone to the beach "3 hours" this summer, we've taken the Mazda instead of the Lexus, and it's been excellent. The 5th gear really makes it cruise quite nicely. But, it is buzzier than the IS300, and doesn't pack the same punch. I would compare the Mazda's driving style to that of an older british pocket rocket, with a Japan touch on refinement. It comes with things like automatic rain sensing wipers, traction control, heated seats, ipod hook up, satelite radio, adjustable hid lights, 8 airbags, leather, triptronic automatic tranny, alarm, 18 inch sport wheels, computer, automatic tire pressure sensors, etc.... really has a full list of options that you wouldn't expect to see in such a car. But, it is noisy on concrete highways, very smooth and quiet on blacktop. Handles like it's on rails, and truly a blast to drive on twisty roads, easy to manuvuer in city traffic. I think it has 170hp, or in that area. Also pulls down 35mpg on midgrade gas, 38 on premium, 32 on regular. It's a "practical" version of the Miata. Not as refined as the Lexus though, not as roomy as the altima, and certainly not as "perfect" as the camry. But, it gets better mileage than those cars, doesn't have the throttle lag the IS300 has, more features. The Mazda is also built on the new Volvo s40 frame too, which takes the "mazda bang bang" ride out of the car, very nice. But, I know where you are with this....trust me! It's her car, and she'll tell you what she likes, and you WILL like it! Hahaaa. It sounds like you wife and mine might of been looking for different cars. Mine wanted something small, fun, safe and economical. Now that we have the 3, she couldn't care about any of that....what sold her on the car was the ipod input...go figure.

Smooth1, have you looked at the Mazda 3's yet? Went through this with my wife a few months ago, took forever too.... ended up with a new Mazda 3, fully loaded, and I mean LOADED, for under $20k. Couldn't be happier...

Dens, I found you over on the toyota 4runner forum "rx900", under the "problems and warranty" section. I can't post there yet, I'm in line for the mod's to accept me. I've read that sitcky on the thump. Question.... It sounds like to me that if this 4runner I'm probably going to buy tomorrow has the thump "and after reading that thread, it does". it seems like I could just add the lubing of the driveshaft to my oil change routine and be good to go? Use the ford teflon grease too, as mentioned in the end. It sounds like it's an easy thing to do, and as you know, I'm a DIY type, heck, bought this house for the garage "well, for me anyway, wife likes everything else <_< " . It sounds quite easy to do, and have no problems adding another 30 minutes to the oil changes. This sound good to you? The thump isn't severe, but it is there, kind of like releasing an air brake sometimes on a big truck. I'm convinced I want that 4runner, and after driving it, I can live with the thump, but just want to make sure it's an easily "maintenanced" item. Lubing something easily accessable every 6k miles is no problem, I've got the tools. It also sounds like if you drive easily, and not jack-rabbit the stops and goes, it's not bad. After the LS, easy-going is my way. Thanks Dens PS: I was suprised, and somewhat comforted to see that it's been an issue as far back as 97', and on other brands of SUV's too. I willing to accept it as "the qwerk" of the car. Just like a door ding; once you get one, you don't seem to get another. But fix it, and you're sure to get another.

I stand corrected, it's an 05', not an 04'. We just looked at it again while they were closed, crawled all underneath of it like a grease monkey, looking for signs of problems. Dens, interesting you bring up the clunk, because I think it did have it a bit, not very badly though. I could feel it when the salemen took his foot off the brakes, and sporatically when we came to a stop, not badly though at all. Was it just for the V8's? Not the V6's? It went away after the first 5 minutes, figured at 51k miles, it's probably due for new differential and tranny fluids anyway. The car looks perfect underneath, no scratch marks on any of the components, no old looking bushings, drove great too. It was definetly a garage kept car. Shifted flawlessly, and I really like the 5 speed over the 4 speeds, especially seeing how the 5 speed works in my wife's Mazda 3. Really makes the car cruise quite nicely. Is the clunk major? It didn't feel that way to me at all, very very minor, and very sporatic. I've come to the conclusion that every car has it's own type of glitch, somewhere in the process. BMW's have torn subframe mounts and vanos issues, volvos blow bulbs, nissans loose road feel or gain too much after 30k miles, toyota has the hesistation, etc.... I don't think there is a "perfect" car made, but Toyota certain comes the closest. So, if the odd clunk is this car's issue, then I could just pop it in "n" when coming to a stop, which is habit for me anyway. Just as long as it isn't tearing up the tranny and differential, I can live with it.

Looks like I'm about to retire the LS on Monday for a 2004 4Runner with the i-force V8. Has 50k miles, midnight blue, sunroof, power windows/locks options, 4x4. Not a limited, no leather, no power seats. But, is extremely nice to drive, awsome engine "i love those V8's". Didn't have that electronic throttle lag too badly, it's there, but barely noticable and easily managable. I'm giving up the luxury comforts of the 12 year old LS, for the newer technology and utility of the 4Runner. I'm keeping the LS, going to fix a couple minor issues, then put it on the street corner for $7,900. Should sell fast, especially considering the closest thing to it around here is a 96' with 140k miles, and BEAT TO SH*T!! I'm talkin', severe severe severe neglect! Paint is flaking off the trunk and roof, dent in the passenger fender, seats torn, plastic cover on gear shift indicator all ripped up.....and the price they're asking "Toyota dealership"????? $10,800!!! Un-freakin-believable!! CarMax offered me $5,000 for it recently, so worst case scenario.. I've tried, and tried, and tried to find a replacement for the LS that I would like. I've looked and drove every 2002-2004 BMW 3 series "too small", the 5 series "too small, crap cup holders", Infiniti M45 "too rough", QX4 "can't find one that hasn't been abused, and doesn't compare to 4Runner", Avalon "not ready for retirement community", Camry "actually drove both neighbors, enough said", Acura TL "rides like go cart", Jaguar "afraid of it", Audi 3 & 6 "too much VW for the price, and too small, don't like center consol". Volvo's "yawn..." MB E320 "feels a bit too economy on the inside for me, center consol too narrow, plus my boss has one, never a good idea to trump your boss"...I won't take an RX, not for me, can't afford the LX or GX. I've tried to avoid Toyota with everything I know, even drove a Ford Five Hundred....But at the end of the day, Toyota still has the quietest, smoothest and best built feeling. I love Toyota, but I HATE THAT IT'S RUINED ALL OTHER CARS!!! :chairshot: It's time to hand the LS to someone else. Aside of needing the caliper bushing repair kit, ebrake fixed, it's perfect. Will need new strut mounts in the next 25k miles, possibly new strut rods within 25k too. Timing belt due in 40k miles. So, any input on this one ladies and gents?

1987 VW GTI....drove it into the ground by 50k miles, and had a BLAST with it! Talk about a fun pocket-rocket!

you wouldn't think they would have that problem....but they do, still to this day..all toyotas do. it is due to the electronic throttle "drive by wire" setup. they have yet to perfect it. it's their one area of issue. drive a new toyota, it's there. they implimented the drive-by-wire setup in 1998. you'll eventually get use to it, and find you've adjusted your driving for it. before long, you won't even notice it. my buddy who is a lawyer in florida is working up a legal case against lexus, becuase his IS300 is so bad he's nearly been killed by the hesitation when trying to cross traffic. The dealership has been so arrogant towards him that he's about to take action against them. It's the one and only reason why I'm shying away from Toyota for my next car, and didn't buy my wife one a few months ago. I had her sold on the new camry's, but after a test drive, she instantly said she hated the throttle feeling, and it hesitated on the test drive coming out of the dealership into traffic. That split second turned me off completely as a car for her.

go buy 2 quarts of toyota tranny fluid.... drain the pan...when it stops draining, put the plug back in, pour in the two quarts, and you'll be set at level. oil... redu it if you feel you must. if it's new oil in there, just drain it and follow your manuals advice for amount to put in w/o filter change.

I've used seafoam in all situations as intended, aka...gas, intake and crankcase. I would not recommend driving around with it in your oil though, but rather put a cup in right before the oil change... let the car simply idle for about 20 minutes or so.....turn it off and let it sit for about an hour "so all oil can drip into the pan". Then drain it, but don't put the plug back in just yet. This part in my opinion is very important.... sacrafice a quart or two of new oil, pour it in from the top, and let it drain out from the bottom. You'll be amazed at how much black gunk oil is still sitting in your pan. The fresh oil will flush it out. Then, once you have clean oil coming out of the pan, close her up, change the filter, and fill her up. I love seafoam. It's done great things for my car. In the crank case, it smoothed out the idle, and is still silky smooth. I haven't done it in the past 10k miles, yet it's still super smooth and quiet. In the intake, it returned the pep factor to the car. So much so that I had to readjust the throttle cable setting back to normal, I was getting too much kick. In the gas tank, it's been ok. The only thing I noticed was the car seemed a little rougher while the seafoam was going through the system. But on the next full tank, it was great. I guess to answer your question.... I would make sure when you change your oil that you have let the car sit long enough for it all to drain into the pan, and sacrafice a quart or two to flush out the pan. Don't drive around with it in there. Not a good idea to put the engine under load with it in. If you were to look at where I put the oil into the engine, you'll see where the seafoam has gone in, as there is a definete clean trail. It ate away the varnish and gunk as it when in.

they would never call me back, so I said "screw it", as it is nearly certain this car will be replaced in the coming month or two for either a 3 series wagon or Infiniti QX4. I'm not even sure if it is the rack in my car and not a lower control arm bushing gone bad, again. I think it might be by strut rods, because i bought them online, and had the dealership install them under protest. I have a thread on here about proper install methods, as I don't think they did them right and have prematurely worn out. But to answer your question, I don't have an answer, they would never give me one.

my advice to new drivers, or drivers with a new car, is to take the car to an empty parking lot some evening, and learn it's limits, learn how it will feel when you stomp on the brakes, learn where the car will break loose on traction, learn the balance, and get comfortable with car in high-strain situations. Trust me, you will be amazed at how quickly your instincts can react in those split second situations if you've already seen how the car can handle. I took the LS out after I got it to an old abandonded movie theatre parking lot, and did donuts, peel outs, hard turns, got the abs to work, etc... It has come in quite handy on more than one occasion when someone stomps on the brakes in front me on the freeway... My instincts know I won't make it, the car can't "dart" that well, so I forcefully but not panically stand on the brakes, and gently swerve to his/her side, giving room for the car behind me to stop, and more importantly, not rearend me! I can honestly say, that I would not be alive today if it had not been for the great handling of my 1st car, a 1987 VW GTI. Kids and cars is bad enough, but to put them in an unforgiving vehicle is nuts. 16 year olds will see how fast it goes, no matter what "it" is. 16 year olds will see how well it will corner, no matter what "it" is. Might as well give them a mildly powered vehicle whos handeling characteristics will scare them, before they scare it. That's just my 2 cent$. For the record, i've been in 2 wrecks in my 18 years of "official" driving. One was at 23 when an idiot in a truck T-boned me while in a studio minivan "his fault". The other at 17, riding in the back seat of a 92 4door blazer after school, hot-doggin' in a mud field and flipped it two times at 60 mph. One was wrong place wrong time....the other was just sheer stupidity, and warrants the phrase "it's not your enemies that will get you into trouble, it's your friends!". I can assure you, if it had not been for the severe concussion from the accident, I would have been worse off from the beating my dad was about to put on me for being in that situation to begin with.... And that retired Colnel doesn't mess around with stupidity. Don't forget..... it's not your enemies...it's your friends... and when you become street legal, you're gonna have A LOT of friends.

Disclaimer: The following does not represent the opinions of this website, its management, and nobody with the screen name NC211. However, it is expressly conveyed that screen name SWO3ES shall be held accountable for all punitive damages due to misguided advice given by such therefore and/or thereof hereto foresay, NC211. Lawyers.....deal with them everyday, gotta watch your back!!! Hahaha Welcome to the club! Now, to the irrelevant and objective testimony aka..test-ur-money. The 04' - 06 LS430 is the last model runs for that series, and in many people's opinion, the best looking, I agree. Me being the owner of what has now turned into performance wise, a glorified camry with a V8 "mine has problems, but is 12 years old with 133k miles", I can say that it is very very tough to beat the LS for it's cruise-ability. I have never owned a more comfortable highway cruising vehicle in my life. I think you would be very happy with the LS, especially if you're in the car alot. Will it perform up to your standards in terms of cornering and such? No, probably not at first. It's no BMW, that's for sure. But it ain't no wollowy caddy either. In fact, it's quite supprising how well they do handle, considering their image an reputation. You mentioned that your 7 series began to have problems, so you sold it. That indicates to me that you're not one to spend time in the waiting room at the repair shop....with that being said, I would stay away from the air suspension setups. Granted, they'll last far longer than most, usually around 80-100k miles, but once they start to act up, it's open season on your wallet. They're such smooth cars anyway, that adding the air suspension really is an over-the-top item, if you ask me. Problems that LS's have are usually related to the suspension control arms, wheel balancing, etc.... The problem I don't like, and have been battling for years now "which has driven me to decide it's time to get rid of it" is that they're sooo smooth, that one tiny little imperfection in the set up, and you'll know it. If your steering wheel shakes a little, if you tossed a very tiny weight off the back wheel, if you've got a minor flat-spot...you'll know it, and it'll drive you insane. Their whole benefit, and reason for ownership is their smoothness. As where a BMW is a driver's car, and that's the appeal, the Lexus is a passengers car, including the driver. But other than that, they're great cars! The information in this posting and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient and may contain privileged and confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure, copying or distribution of this message or attachment is strictly prohibited. If you believe that you have read this posting in error, please contact the sender immediately and delete this posting and all of its attachments. Or, sue SW03ES as I'll say I was drunk when I wrote this, and therefore cannot be held accountable. Hense, the hillbilly grammer.

This VA talk sparked my memory, so I went back and pulled a few files from my past "I always keep copies, just in case I need to protect myself". You guys are right, VA benefits aren't a 1 time thing. It just needs to be your primary residence. VA loans are a bit of pain to do though, if memory serves me correct. More paperwork needed, and I can't rememer, but something about a valid certificate of elidgablity, or something to that effect. Good LTV ranges though. They just want to make sure you're not using that benefit for investment reasons. With today's world, it's quite easy to do some research on real estate, quite specific research actually. Josh, it might be worth the time to surf the net for the county's registry of deeds office, or real estate site. they're usually all the same "http://web.co.wake.nc.us/rdeeds/", where you substitute your county "wake is mine" and your state "nc, duh, is mine". But if you google the county name + "registry of deeds", you'll start getting on the path. Here in Raleigh, you can actually pull up everyone's home, photo included, and see who bought it, when, how much, what's been done to it, sales around it, building materials used, etc.... You're on the path to riches man, with that excellent thinking about rent. You get no sweat equity with a rental. And as technical as you are, no doubt in my mind what ever you buy someday, will be the nicest in the neighborhood. One thing to think about though, and to take into consideration, is Meghan handy around the house? I ask, becuase you being military, and knowing what kind of repair guys lurk around military towns "sure sweetie, $2,500 is normal to fix a toilet, you're husband would agree, if he were here and not in Iraq". She'll have to fix some thing while you're gone. Something to consider when taking on a home. Those repair guys are everywhere down in Fayettville "Ft. Bragg" and Jacksonville "Lejeune", which are both predomitely women run towns these days, with dad off to kick terrorist !Removed!!!! ....oh man, i'm getting that wild hair again...need to sign off, before Dubbya' comes back.

Are you sure it's a leak? It could be the old oil that's still splattered on the engine area around the filter. when you change the filter, a good bit of oil drains out, and it gets on a passing cooling line, and it also hits the upper lip of the pan's attachment point. you're supposed to wipe it down after changing the filter, but those cheap-o jiffy lubes don't always do that. i guess the easiest way to tell is to determine if the oil looks new, or old. if it's clear, then it's new and you have a leak. if it's black and old, then it's probably just the old oil dripping from the surrounding areas.

Wait, so are you saying that you test drove a "demo", but bought this one w/o test driving it too? Would they not let you drive the one you actually bought, before actually buying it? If that's the case, then I, and the car, and if need be, my attorney, would be at the dealership 1st thing Monday morning, DEMANDING either a full refund and your LS430 back, or a cut price on the demo you drove, or the option to pick a different LS460L to test drive and see if that one is better!!! If indeed they would not let you test drive the one you actually bought, or led you to believe it'll be just like the demo you did drive, then I'd be calling "bait n' switch" on this one, as you clearly did NOT receive what you were led to believe. Point of the matter is this: at 400 miles total, on a car that expesive, you should NOT have to put up with any of this crap from them, period! I'd communicate with the general manager via email, so it's in writing and time stamped from here on out. Print the emails out, and have them handy incase you need to prove anything. Don't, I repeat, DON'T let them treat you like you're bugging them and they're just telling you whatever to get you to go away. Hand them the keys, and tell them to prepare for a legal war and public embarrassement if they don't step up and fix this for you, NOW. Remind them of your ability to to buy an LS460L to begin with...aka...financial ability to handle yourself and hire the proper tools to do so, including advertising space in the local paper, if need be.

Josh, back in the day, while riding out the financial fall-out of 9/11, worldcom, enron, etc... i hid in the residential sector for National City Mortgage, producing residential mortgages. Not the case today, strictly commercial, but beside the point. I would suggest surveying the credit union environment in the area. Now, most of them, if not all of them under CUNA regulation, are "conforming" lenders...aka...traditional and by the book. But, they have some leverage ability too, loans that they make and plan to "shelf" them, not sell them to secondary market players "Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac". Basically, they make the loan, they keep the loan, you pay them for the entire loan. If it the loan goes bad, it's their problem, and their problem only. Now, having said that, they have programs that aren't subprime, aren't negative am "which you're not in that ball park for", and they're not interest only "bad, very very bad, these days". Many credit unions have a "1st time homebuyer" program, which offers 100% financing, but requires you to attend their classes, usually one or two. They basically teach you the basics of homeownership, how to take care of it, how to AVOID the financial pitfall, especially the one of feeling like since you have a new home, riding high on cloud 9...you need a new car too, or boat, or motorcycle...etc... That's where most get into trouble. Credit unions are easy on the fees as well, and usually better rates, usually. Credit unions are "non-profit" setups....aka...no tax liability...so they're "supposed" to pass along that savings to their members through lower fees and better rates. However, not all are like that...avoid the big ones...go for the smaller ones that are just starting out and itching for a footprint in their market. You don't have to load up on one loan either, you can do this with two if need be. Although they're fading fast, and are forecasted to be slim around winter, once all of this subprime paper gets digested by wall street and we can see the true damage. But the "twofer" set up consists of one main loan at 80% of the value, and then a second loan "home equity" for 15% of the value... known as an 80/15, with the remaining 5% coming from you. Basically look at it as a 95% loan to value finance package. And if done right, your total payment for both is usually within a few bucks if you did a straight 95% value single loan, with carries that PMI "private mortgage insurance". Enough for now.... but I would suggest a credit union. You're Army, you should be part of the Army Federal Credit Union. Don't blow your VA yet. You've got options. Tread with caution with lenders who don't charge fees.... When dealing with this, and you need that option, go "direct"...aka...you go to the bank or credit union, not "ACME Mortgage, LLC". Those are brokers...dot-connectors...and trust me, you're paying those fees, 5-fold, easily. Get home son, Red White & Blue missin' you!

My take on the $125 oil change, falls in line with a $10 cup of coffee. I'm in the same boat as SRK when it comes to oil changes. The last time anyone but me changed the oil, it cost me $250 bucks to have the lower pan replaced due to the tech overtightening the bolt and stripping out the threads on the pan. I paid half, they paid half, to have it fixed. That was back in 05'. But, you have to also take into consideration the car itself, and if it's worth $125 for an oil change. SWO's is new(er) than mosts, and worth more too. My old 95' is worth 4 figure$. So $125 for an oil change and inspection doesn't really serve me well. I don't need a mechanic to tell me "that part is wearing out".... no sh*t sherlock, it's nearly as old as the kid who just handed me the keys. And of course, my ever-evaporated patience with fixing it up.

RUN LIKE HELL!!!!!!!! DON'T CALL, DON'T ANSWER, DON'T ACKNOWLEDGE ANYTHING, JUST FREAKIN' RUN FOR DEAR LIFE, AND YOUR CREDIT SCORE!!!!!!!

Exactly!

Nightrain..... always a fun night filled with stitches and a court date.