vissine

This is an old thread. Who is actually having problem and does need help?

Your car is so nice. I need to re-paint my car but don't know where to send it to.

I think this problem is more like electrical connections.

There is no relay for the wiper. You have to inspect it at the wiper motor connector. If both high and low speeds are working at the motor, then you have to troubleshoot the switch. It maybe as simple as dirty connector.

Is there any other reason than polution to replace this VSV when it's filter broke off?

Thanks SHA4000. I agree and am investigating the fuel system.

Black. But for a few minutes so I won't worry about it too much.

I have a similar problem like this one. Hope someone can relay me to any solution. My LS problem is when I turn the ignition key ON (not starting), the fuel pressure reads zero. When I crank the engine, car turns over and runs, but with heavy smoke. I troubleshoot the circuit at On positio to see if circuit opening has any voltage, it does not. The control line is FC from the ECU seems not working. The way I understand is when the key is on, EFI main relay is on, Power run to Circuit Opening and the FC (from the ECU) will turn on the Circuit Opening relay to allow current flow to the pump relay. In my case, the Circuit Opening Relay does not give any output, so the pump does not build up initial pressure. Now, when I start the engine, the car runs (with smoke), in that sense, it appears the Circuit Opening Relay is working (otherwise the pump doesn't work). Is it safe to call the ECU is bad so it did not turn on the pump when the ignition is at ON position? Measuring fuel pressure, it should be between 38-44 psi, mine reads 38. Should I just blindly replace the pump because it is at the borderline?

I have a 96 model. The number is 89661-50303 from the day I got it.

1992 Starter Replacement - by Landar This is a link of starter replacement. You don't need to go that far to replacing a starter but removing the manifold is a step in the process.

There is one screw at the bottom side of that bottom part that you maybe missing. It's pretty easy to remove that plastic cover if I remember correctly.

Hello friends, So, I have time to take a look at the car (been social distancing, so I don't need to drive to anywhere). Anyway, I was able to check the fuel pressure gauge, lucky enough, I did not see anything. At this point, I don't even care to crank it because the pump maybe a problem or circuitry. I didn't check the spark because it takes some times to remove stuffs and I have to take care of the pump anyway. First thing first. First, I remove the pump relay and check the circuit there: zero, no voltage at all. But, before reaching the fuel pump relay, the battery voltage needs to pass through the Circuit Open relay. I went a head and remove the Circuit Open relay and check there, all the voltages are ready to go. At this point, I was thinking "maybe the Circuit Open relay is defect". I pulled out my tool to get some electrical wires for connection and try to confirm which one is bad. Sure enough, the CIrcuit Open relay was good, Fuel Pump relay was dead. I went to Advance auto parts to buy the relay, plugged in and the car was alive again.

Can you hear the hum noise in your car when the key is at ON position?

Car cranks, but does not turn over. It could be a dead pump or clogged filter. At least, that's what I am thinking. I don't hear the hum noise when ignition key is at On position although I hear the clicking sound of the relay. I normally didn't notice that hum noise anyway. I haven't got time to troubleshoot so come here to brainstorm first. There is no symptom, it's just cold dead. I am looking into connecting a gauge to test the fuel pump before replacing it. It's just that I haven't done it before so I don't know which port on the fuel rail that I need to tap into.

Has anyone performed a test to diagnose if a fuel pump is having problem? I think I have fuel pump problem but don't want to replace it randomly.

It looks like the crushed gasket of the filler hole caused the mess at the filler hole.

Just 4 gaskets (2 each) (front and back of the cats). Before removing the bolts, spray the bolts with penetration liquid and leave them alone overnight. There is no reason to replace the O2 sensors.

Mine is 96, I can relate to 95 and 97 models. There are 2 resonators near the exhaust outlets. Whoever told you that it has 4 cats doesn't know what they were talking about.

I think sha4000 is right about IAC valve. I would clean it first.

Mine went out at around 250k miles. It didn't throw the code yet but I heard clanking noise in one of them so I replace both with Bosal converters. Both still work fine after 50k miles. I could have lived with it but the noise bothered me.

You can check if the shifter indicator light shows P or N. This is a common issue with old cars.

Replace the solenoid is pretty easy and straight forward, difficult part is to identify which one to replace.

It was human error. I cut off old oxygen sensor and replaced with a new one a few years ago. Because the replacement cable was a little longer than it should, I had to use zip tie to keep it out of the way. Recently, when I got it on a lift, the cable got crushed causing shorted.Visual check solves the problem.

I am sure some people here can help you better. But I will suggest to change transmission fluid & filter.

What are the names of these codes?