Econ

Holy mother! Those are low prices. What's the deal with this place? It's almost kind of sketchy, they're so cheap. Definitely bump this thread when you get the stuff in, would you? <shameless self promotion> Also, jadecuir - in case you need it, I posted a lower ball joint how-to for gen-1 LS400s in the how-to section. </shameless self promotion>

No one has had any complaints that I'm aware of regarding the $50 02 sensors - they're generally universal and need to be butt-spliced to the harness from the car (which, for some reason, adds at least $30 to the price if it's included).

No real time that you "have" to change your sensors unless you're getting a check-engine light. But at 208k and 15 years, you might just see an increase in performance and mileage as your sensors are kind of old.

To the best of my knowledge, what nc211 has said is entirely correct - I do accounting work on the side for a private practice CPA who handles primarly small business and personal returns. Generally speaking, the legal seperation between a Sub-S and it's sole owner creates the need for a paper trail that documents the transactions as wholly seperate. (Arms-length generally does not apply in this case, since it's privately held) However, instead of leasing back to the company, why not have the Sub-S acquire the vehicle for business purposes and lease it itself? You have to be careful, though, from a legal standpoint as courts won't hesitate to make the connection between a Sub-S and it's owner(s) in cases where the transactions were clearly not solely business decisions. Termed "piercing the veil", they will refuse to provide the personal protection afforded by incorporation in cases where the company was simply acting as a proxy (read: your !Removed!) for the owner(s). Ergo, if the company stops making payments, you may still be personally liable for the lease. EDIT: Damnit, need to read the full post. Sorry. I wouldn't risk charging the payments back to your company without getting an opinion from a CPA in your area. There's no business reason for the payments to be charged back. And there's definitely no depreciation benefit, based on what I know, if you were to acquire the vehicle this way.

I got my lower ball joints for about $80 a piece from irontoad.com, and saw them for slightly less at discounttoyotaparts.com - $45 seems like a really, really low price for gen 1 LBJs. If you do find them for $45, post it up, I'd love to have a line on a place that can supply parts like that.

Nothing unusual, it looks like. Perhaps they let the registration lapse. It looks like maybe they sold the car to someone who didn't drive it? Frankly, CarFax reports are kind of hampered in their usefulness because of these types of problems. Was it in an accident and wrecked, hence the reason for the long period between registration notes? Or was it just a normal lapse? Most likely it was nothing, just a normal lapse.

I'm not familiar with the possibility of it damaging the front control arm, but I do know you shouldn't go more that 10, maybe 20 centimeters bigger on the tire size over stock (when using stock rims). That means that a 205/65 R15 stock tire shouldn't -ever- be replaced with a 255/50 R16. The beat won't seat and you're asking, nay, begging for a blowout. That said, are you saying that you have rims that fit 255/50 R16s? If so, have you noticed any rubbing or otherwise before? What's the offset? If your offset is substantially different, I believe that could cause abnormal suspension wear.

I swore I'd just lurk and not get involved, but this is too tempting. I think you guys are all saying the same thing, but attaching different intent. We've all agreed that 0-60 acceleration is the same b/c at WOT, there's an independed map used by the ECU. Also, we've agreed that the shifting feels different in PWR mode vs. Normal. I think everyone has seen that the engine revs higher, and tends to shift a little bit more abruptly (hence the "firm" feel). So it is psychological? From SW03ES's point, yes. You're at a stop light, and then the light turns green. You get a lead foot and so does the LS next to you. No matter what position your ECT is in, you're going to get to 60 at the same time (ceteris paribus). Branshew's point, though, is totally valid as well. It's not all psychological. If you're cruising at 20 and want to get to 50 without going to WOT, the PWR mode on the ECT is going to get you there faster. Why? Because the engine is kept more towards it's powerband than in the Normal case. Again, I'm not talking about pedal-mashing, I'm talking about just moderate pressure on the pedal. I'm sure most people are familiar with the shifting lag when you first hit the gas. The PWR mode just eliminates that lag and gets the engine to optimal revs and holds it there longer during normal driving. Knowing that driving isn't binary (on/off, stop/go), the effect is not purely psychological in moderate (i.e. city) driving. However, if you are the type of person who drives around with either the gas or the brake on the floor at all times, PWR mode isn't going to make a lick of difference, and it becomes a "feel good" switch.

Wow. I didn't even know that there was a power option on the truck. Fancy-schmancy. The scematics attached are for a 1991 LS400, but I don't think that there's any difference between the two. Let me know if you need any help reading them.

Hey - sorry, didn't see your reply in the steering wheel replacement thread until just now. Removal/replacement of the steering wheel is a really straightforward process. Unfortunately, I don't have time right now to put together the walkthrough, but I will hopefully have some time this weekend. I'll make sure to send the instructions along to you as soon as possible. In regards to swapping a '94 into a '92, I'm not sure if it has been done before (though I can't imagine that someone hasn't already tried). Provided that the harness for the airbag sensor is the same on both wheels, I can't see a reason that it wouldn't fit. Clearance issues may exist, though, so you might want to take some measurements before swapping to make sure that you won't block turn signals, wipers, etc.

+1 - check the fuses first. After that, there's a brake light sensor that has gone bad in a couple of 1st gen LS400s. Harder to diagnose but we have the schematics and someone already has a fix for it. You can also click on the "search" button in the top graphic menu on the site, which may provide a wealth of help immeiately.

About $100 each for the front rotors from www.discounttoyotaparts.com, and $145 each for the rear rotors. I never noticed a big difference between rotors from OEM distributors and Autozone or Checker, frankly. Look at the venting in the rotors from the discount auto parts places and you'll probably see what I mean. There's just not much that can vary unless you replace it with an aftermarket setup.

The TRAC light, unfortunately, is another error code that you have to pull. There's an engine control module and a traction control module, both are separate processors with separate error codes. First, open your hood. Look at the left side of the bay (while facing the car) and about mid-point on the fender is a black plastic box-cover. Pull it off. Find the service connector underneath (circular plug) and unplug it. Remember what you just did to get the check engine light error code? Just put the paperclip between the two in the middle (E1, which you did before, and the slot left of it, Tc). Count the code just as before. Let us know what the code is and I'll look it up. Ooops - almost forgot. Code 70: Open in EGR gas temp sensor circuit Short in VSV circuit for EGR EGR hose disconnected, valve stuck ECU I'd try cleaning it if you know how. Check out the hoses to make sure they're secure. If it doesn't work, let us know. There are more diagnostic steps, but they're more involved than this simple explanation.

If it is the rotors, you'd have to ask the guys at the shop you have them machined at. They'll be able to tell you if it's too far out of spec to have them machined. That said, I generally just replace warped rotors whether they're willing to mill them or not. Seems kind of like asking for trouble if you put rotors that have already warped back on. Just my $.02.

I don't know that you could even install a traction control module as an after-factory add-on. That would be a horrendous job of installing piping and a traction control ecu, harnesses to the engine control ecu and integration with the ABS. I think that components are moved around the engine bay as well, which would requrie additional work. That and the fact that the 1st Gen LS400 traction control modules are spotty at best would probably make a project like that a no-go.

If you've set the climate control to "AUTO" the blower will only come on when the temperature is not within the set range. However, if you select a blower speed (hi, med, low) the blower should remain constantly on. When is it that your blower isn't working?

When you say "accelerate quickly", are you talking about wide open throttle, or just aggressive acceleration? This could be an EGR valve problem, but it sounds more like an air/fuel mixture issue since it runs fine otherwise. Have you checked the error codes to see if there are any stored?

Than hitting the dash? Yes. There's probably a problem with the circuit board(s) driving the needles. Do the rest of the indicators (fuel, temp) work correctly?

If you're mechanically inclined, then that will go a long way in working on/with a higher-mileage Lexus. I myself have owned a bevy of american cars (sticking foolishly with my father's opinion that american cars are better for whatever reason) before the 1991 Lexus my fiancee brought into our relationship. While I've had to put about $1500 worth of parts into it (it has 160k miles and it's maintenance record was, well, poor at best) it rides and feels better than anything I've ever had the privilege to drive. And every time I repair something, it makes a significant difference, which makes me happier to have it than before. The only significant thing that I've been putting off is tearing down the top end of the engine to do the valve adjustments. There's even significant questions as to whether it's neccessary at all (see the many postings on this board) but I'm kind of a stickler for this stuff so I'm still planning on tackling it. Repairs to date: R/L front upper control arms - $600 in parts R/L lower ball joints - $180 in parts Rack & Pinion - $380 in parts (I got taken on this) Power steering pump - $200 in parts Forward 02 sensors - $100 in parts Things you'd want to look for/avoid on a used 1st Generation LS400 (1990-1994): Traction control system - they can be problematic Air suspension - $1,000 a corner to replace the strut yourself (you can always convert to standard suspension with a conversion kit, though) That's about all I can think of. But if you're looking at any other full-size sedans in the price range, I belive the LS400 will beat them all.

I like that a lot more than the concept of locking when in drive. Sounds like a huge problem if someone can't get into your car when you're injured in an accident. What would be the point of having the car locked when you're driving?

Ok, should have looked at my information before. I don't think it's pinging because the 1990 LS400 is equipped with knock sensors. They're sensitive siesmic sensors designed to pick up on the vibrations caused by engine detonation (pinging) and are linked to the ECU, which will accordingly dial back the injector pulse width to reduce pinging until it's gone. So, given that detonation is avoided by the knock sensors, which compensate by reducing power, I'm going to guess that it's something else. Once, after I had worked on my intake manifold on my other car, I heard a tapping noise coming from the engine bay when I was accelerating. Sometimes when I was cruising, but not as often. Turns out (after six weeks of freaking out) that it was a throttle cable that I forgot to re-attach to a bracket that was tapping on my hood. When I accelerated the engine would twist in it's mounts and the cable would bounce up and down. Frustrating. Without hearing the noise, this is going to be much harder to diagnose. Does the metallic rattle sound occur whenever you accelerate? Or can you accelerate gently and avoid the noise? What about when your foot is on the floor? Does the sound ever get louder? Check your spark plug wires to ensure that they're all tightly secured and there isn't too much dieletric great in the boot. This problem generally causes more of a knock and less of a metallic rattle, but could definitely be the culprit. Also, seriously consider having a certified mechanic look at it if this continues to be a problem after 1 tank of gas.

I don't know that the fix you linked to would work on the LS400. In fact, I don't think that they're talking about the same type of suspension at all. I believe that the Soarer (SC in the US, right?) gas shocks are different from the LS400 air suspension. The LS400 air suspension uses pneumatic cylinders to raise and lower the ride height of the car. This requires that air be pumped into/released from the shocks themselves. A sepearate ECU controls the air suspension (it's located in the trunk). Gas shocks are a different type of shock. They're completely sealed and rely on the gas and oil to provide a varying degree of bound/rebound resistance for the springs. Generally, they're used on a sportier setup (hence the use the SC) and don't have any sort of controlled response. In it's simplest form, it's a gas-filled bladder that is compressed by the oil forced through the channel by the spring action. The gas filled shock provides an increasing resistance to further compression at a non-linear rate, which provides an effective progressive spring rate (the rate at which resistance to compression rises is disproportionately greater than the increase in force required to compress).

Pinging (also called detonation or pre-ignition) is caused when the fuel combusts early and unevenly. That rattling or knocking sound you're hearing is the piston & rod being shoved back the 0.1mm or so of play they have so hard and fast that you can hear it over the sound of the engine operating. Not a desireable state to be driving around in, but waaaay better than rod knock. The following is a brief fuel quality/octane rating primer based on what I can remember and is in no way inclusive of all information or definitive. Check Wikipidea for some additional info -- Fuel quality shouldn't affect pinging, but octane definitely does. There's two methods for measuring octane in fuel, if I remember correctly, and I don't know the difference between the two. However, their results (octane rating) are very similar. Higher octane fuel burns more uniformly, and some claim more slowly (though we're talking about fractions of a second). Some engine designs (such as high compression engines) need this uniform burning characteristic in order to ensure they run optimally. Pinging is eliminated because the higher octane fuel is less likely to combust early (detonate). Sometimes the combination of the temperature in the cylinder and the pressure the air/fuel mixture is subjected to can cause lower-octane fuels to spontaneously combust (much like how a diesel engine works, except diesels do this on purpose). The fuel burns in one area before the spark ignites it, and works against the upward momentum of the piston. Sometimes octane boosters work. Sometimes they don't. It depends on how well you mix them in with the fuel. If it is indeed pinging, I would do two things: 1) Wait for your tank to go nearly empty before filling it up with premium, and 2) Dump a container of BGK44 (made by BG Products) to clean out your injectors and any potential carbon build up from the pinging.

This has actually been covered in pretty decent detail - you can try searching for subwoofer replacement. Also, lexls.com has a fantastic walkthrough regarding the replacement of the sub with an aftermarket version, definitely check it out.

Eeep. Rattle when accelerating? Something like change rattling around under your hood? I would hope not - that's likely a rod knock, and those aren't any good. Does the rattle vary in frequency according to speed of the engine or speed of the car? Or does it vary at all? Do you notice a difference on windy days vs. calm days?