914lps

Have a muffler shop test for back persure. It could be a muffler and not a cat. Around here it is a $15.00 to $20.00 test. I would also check the timing. Then??????

If I have read the post correctly he allready replaced the cats........ Why don'f folks read the complet post???? Sorry I have no thoughts on what to check. ?The red cats tell me there is unburned gas or oil getting into them, but I have no idea of why?

Thanks for the info. It seems like my Ls likes to have trouble when away from home.... But in a year of driving I may do 1,000 to `1,500 miles locale, the rust of at least 20,000+ miles all out of town. More then once I have done two 3,000 mile oil changes in one month. The TB service is was coming due... I had been putting it off. I believe this will end up being the TB slipped due to the tensioner.... No one to blame but me. Luck and the car had nothing to due with this one. I was pushing it. Now the BS I had with the PS pump is another story....... As My machanic is a nice guy that knows cars in generail, the LS he has worked on is mine, the Lexus book would be a smart investment. Just an expensive one. From what I'v heard none of the other books are worth it. Anyone looking to sell the repair manuail for a 91 LS 400?

On Lexls.com on the guide for doing the TB it shows the three sensors. So I know the location. Just need to know what reading I should get. Looks like this weekend I go buy an LS shop book. I should have one anyway. Just not looking forward to the price of over 150.00 I have seen for the real deal.

Should the metter read any set value, or will it just show open or closed? (what should it show) Also where is the sensor located?

Thanks for the help.. But.... Car is a 91 not a 93.......... I am home... Had car towed 172 miles. We did a compresion test tesed at 220. I am going to replace TB but want to get the car to start first. No piont in doing the TB if the car will not start due to another issue. I do apershate the attempts to help, but please before offering help and thoughts take the time to read what I'm dealing with and what I have done. I have seen this on other posts... Folks offering advise without reading all the info.... Why????? I will have my shop put the MAS back on and take a timing light to it. If it's that, we will reset the timing, get car runing.. Then replace TB and water pump. As for why the belt slipped. Not that likly it streached. More like just old and the tensioner let it slip. We well redo as per recomendations on Lexls's site ( damed good info). I know you all mean well, but I just do not like it when folks post stuff that showes they have not read the post completly or the threads to it. We will look at the marks on the cam sprokets.

Update: Timing belt as stated above is on it's last leg, but is working. We took the cover off and looked at it. Timing belt is turning when cranking. Will be replacing it and the water pump as srtated above, but first I need to find out why it is not runing... We checked compersion reads 220. We reset the CPU no help. Checked eng codes. We are getting the codes of 12 and 24 in that order. So, anyone have the info on what these codes stand for? From what I can tell, the code 24 is becouse we are trying to start the car with the Mas auir flow sensor off the car. And the code 12 is a timing issue??? If I'm right I get a gold star... But I would rather get the car runing. Anyone have any recomendations, other then puting the MAS back on the car and take a timing light to It?

Car will not start. Just cranks . No spark at all. Both coils dead??? Pulled two spark plugs. They are dry. Seems like injectors not fireing. I have fuel pershure. Pulled timing belt cover. Belt is looking bad, but is still on. I get no check eng light when I'm trying to start the car. I was driving at about 60 MPH when 6car gave me a one or two second loss of power, then seemed OK. I pulled over and looked at the engine. Everything seemed OK. I took off again. Got up to 50 or so, and car went dead. Lost all power. Had a smell like a burned belt. Car would crank and not even try to start. Got towed to my shop. I'm in a small town. My car is the only lexus this shop sees. So, any ideas?? Any sugestions? We are going to see if we can pullany codes from the car. We will try to reset the CPU, and check the timing...... We are thinking that the timing belt sliped.... The car seems to have no "rsistance" when it cranks, like it is truning faster then normal?????? OK lets hear your thoughts..... Oh, I will be doing the t-belt and water pump as the t-belt is looking old.... But need to get car runing first.......

I had the "Memory" reset or cleared, depending on how you look at it. Check eng light has not come back on... Before that I but a new gas cap on. It was a cheep 7.00 to spend to see if that was it, but still got the light coming on after the new cap was put on. And I put it on tight. Light only whent off after I checked for a vacum leak with carb cleaner spray. with engein running. But last night I think the water pump froze and took the timing belt.... Had car towed to the shop will know later today. Thank god 91 LS is a non-interferance eng. It has been about 90,000 miles since the water pump and belt had been changed... But the good news is the check eng light is still staying off, and yes the bulb is good, becouse it does light when you first turn the ingnition on (when all dash lights come one). But car will not start at all. Starter sounds like it is turning eng over... Was going down the road at about 80 when bingo!, Total loss of power. Something smelled like burning rubber. I though the serepentin belt went, but it is fine. I'll know later today, but if it is not pump and timing belt, I'll do them anyway, yes I know they are past due

:cha OK here is what I first posted: "My check eng light on my 91 LS 400 has been going on and off. ODB 1 so it will not hold a code. When down to about 2 gal of gas light comes on. Fill up, light goes off... Until today. It finailly stayed on. Had it read. Got an EGR messadge. So what am I most likly in for?" One of the responces talked about a posable vacum leak. So with the car running (and yes the check eng light was still on) I sprayed carb cleaner around the vacum lines to look for a leak. The car's idle did not change, etc. So no sighn of a leak. I go to turn car off and the chec eng light is now Off! It is now two tanks of gas later and 600 miles and the light has not come back on. Could it be fixed?????????

Sorry Lexus told me it did not... Gee a dealer not knowing what they are saying........ :whistles:

My check eng light on my 91 LS 400 has been going on and off. ODB 1 so it will not hold a code. When down to about 2 gal of gas light comes on. Fill up, light goes off... Until today. It finailly stayed on. Had it read. Got an EGR messadge. So what am I most likly in for?

Hay, no big deal. This is almost as good as regular gas or super... Or reg oil or syn........ In short, some good pionts on both sides and some bad pionts...... Like "Guns are only made to inflict pain and suffering and to kill. Nope. Some guns are made to never be shot at anyone. They are made only for target shooting. yes the can be misused. Just like almost anything can. A gun is nothing more then a tool. It is the person holding it, or responsable for it, that is responsable for if it is used for good or bad. Now a fishing hook... That is only designed to hurt and mame in order to do "it's job". But something is not "bad" just becouse it hurts, or kills. What makes it good or bad are the cercumstances and the personail belifes of the person or persons judging if it is right or wrong. And debates of this type are endless in nature. For the most piont gun owners will not agree to give them up, and anti-gun folks will not agree that guns are good, etc.... But what is great, is that we can all agree to disagree ;)

Had freind with a modl T. It had a glow plug and a crank. No battery needed. On the flip side, a 20 mile an hour crash would total it and you......

Lets make more trouble.... :whistles: If you ajust the numbers to accout for the number of cars on the road, and the number of pepole killed by cars, and compair that to the number of guns, and how many are killed by guns... Cars kill so manay more folks then guns. Even if you just look at the number of folks killed in by a car when a crime was being done. Running from cops, druck driving, hit and un.. And so on. You can ajust the numbers for # of guns per capita an the number of cars... But cars are more deadly then guns.... But no one talks about taking all those dedly cars of the street.......

If you did that in Las Angeles with out a permit (that you can't get) you would have gone to jail. Los Angeles sucks. Lived there for over 40 years. Moved to Arizona where we don't need to stiking permits! And Guns don't kill pepole... It's the bullet that does it! I was not in your shoes, as such I'm not going to say if you should have or should not have pulled your gun... But I'll bet your naigbor has no complants. Knowing me. I would have busted the guy, and called the cops. I also carry but I have an Air Taser in addition bto a side airm. When on the road, air taser only. Do not want to get busted in a state that does not care about my AZ rights, Like Los Angeles. So, I'lll just light them up with high voltadge :whistles:

Total guess on my part. One, your battery is dead and can't hold charge, and or altenator dead. In either event low or no voltadge. Or two your CPU got messed up from the poor battery conection. Discoect battery for ten min. Then reconect. See if everything comes back. To me these are the most likly, but could also be bad battery cables, or bad ground conection. But this is electricail, CPU related in my book.

if the vents are vacum controlled in the ls then Ill bet you have a vacum leak in the a/c vent controlls

SK you know more then me. But if he has no idea when it was last changed can't hurt to do it now. When my car acted up it would not stay running under load, and acted up in park. Then seemed to be fine after I reset the computer. To play it safe i did the fuel filter. It was past due antway. Car has been fine. Have driven over 3,000 miles. I know a resent could have fixed "something" ells.... But I have seen a fuel filter act crazy at only a certan fuel flow.

Hope it works for you. When the guy did mine I watched. Defanitly take your gas cap off. And when you take a wernch to the fittings you are going to get gas leaking out. Tie a rag around your wist. It will soak up the gas and stop it from going down your arm.

Had something allng this lines with my 91. I took a chance and changed my fuel filter (it was way past due). Touble never came back. So when was fuel filter last changed in your car?

Before my last remote stopped working, every one I had was next to worthless. Had to stand so close to the door, I could reach out and just put the key in. Also had to keep pushing the remote, and move it around. Like a dumb sh... I would take 10 to 20b second to open with the remote. Now it takes only 1 to 2 with the key... Looking forward to talking with this company and doing a review of thier stuff.

Looked at a company that makes a replacement for the remote on the lexus. Depending on year you ether just plug in thier moduail, and use thier remote, or you can get away with just using thier remote and program it to the car the same as a replacement key. I'm looking forward to getting more info and testing it out (I'm a writer, so I get stuff for free :whistles: ). I'll keep you all posted. I'm looking forward to a remote that realy works father away from the car then one foot, and also never having to buy another remote key from Lexus!

I sent him a money order for some parts last Monday. I'm waiting for the parts now. Should have them this week. If not here by Friday then I'll get in touch with him. I have his address and number, but not with me. He is in Florida.

My 91 revs fine. I would go with clean TB, run seafoam or b12 chemtool in gas tank. Clean intake manafold (there are threads that talk about it, but basicly pull vacum line and let it suck in b12 chemtool or sea foam). Tune up items Plugs, wires, caps, coils.... reset ECU, disconect battery for 10 to 20 min. Muffler shop should charge about $20 or $30 to check back preshure on your system.