914lps

I would say if that did not release it, it is not the mechanical part of the latch that is at fault. Must be something bent or misaligned etc., on the inside of the door or the door itself that has it "jammed" shut. Have you tried GENTLY prying it open at the same time someone is pulling on the emergency release? Also found this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/37394-fuel-door-wont-open/

Sounds to me like either a bad radio, or a bad power connection. Either the the positive or negative. You said you did the instal. Make sure all you connections are good. A test light may show good, but the connection could be good enough for a meter or light, but not for the radio to power right. Also try shaking and moving the power wires, etc., as you test them. Try asking here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/VAIS-Technology/296685372022

Hit the internet , find used Lexus parts dealers, call them. If you are in a large city should be one or more near you. Call them. If they don't have it see if they will be on the lookout for you.

Today my 91 LS 400 did something it has never done. It started to show it running hot on the temp gauge. This car no matter how hot (like 130 in the shade) or how cold outside would always start, "warm up" get the temp gauge needle to dead on center of the gauge and stay there. I have never , ever seen it go higher then the center of the range. In ten years with this car. Today after driving about four blocks, I could watch the gauge start climbing. It got to the first mark on the gauge just under the highest point on the gauge. Then drooped back to the center. Then it started climbing again. Would get to the same point and drop again... But only to go back up. I did have the A/C on, but that should force the electric fans on, and help the cooling... After about 5 or 6 times it stopped doing this. And stayed dead center, as always... I had driven a total of maybe 5 miles. After it stopped doing the up and down, it stayed at the traditional dead center point. I drove about another 5 miles to my destination. Stayed there for at least 4 hours and drove home. The car did not do it once on the ride home. And it was even hotter out. I am thinking that the only thing that could make it go up and down that fast is the thermostat malfunctioning. Any thoughts on this? About a month ago I had the A/C converted over to 134A and on doing the work it was discovered that one electric fan was dead and the fan switch on the bottom of the radiator was no good. A working fan and new switch was installed and the system checked OK.

I think the system still sees that the drivers door is closed etc, and can still go ff. If pulling the fuse gives the results you want on the alarm, but then also kills stuff you still want power to, I would try to find a wiring schematic and find the wires from the fuse that feed the alarm, and kill that wire. Leaving power to the stuff you want. Sorry I do not have the wiring info. Also hopefully those other things are not tied to the alarm system in a way that you can't have one without the other. I hope these thoughts are of help.

I wanted to post a great big Thank You! For the info you sent me!

I know if the pressure gets to high the compressor will shut down. On my 91 the unit has two electric cooling fans in addition to the mechanical fan. The electric ones are there to cool the condenser. Especially when the engine is at low rpm or you are driving at low speed. Do you know if these fans are working on your car? If they work like my 91 they should come on every time the AC is turned on. Hopefully someone can chime im on if the 95 is like the 91 in this regard.

Still looking for information like diagnoses procedures and wiring etc......

WOW, thank you! PM sent! Again Thank you.

I thank you for posting and trying to help. I must apologize. Apparently I did a not so great job of posting in the first place. So I will try to fix that. When I posted: "To try to get my car on the road as we look for a replacement fan, we moved the drivers side fan to the right passenger side. As this is more inline to cool the condenser coils." I wanted to convey that in fact the "bad fan" was switched with the working fan. And we knew one fan was working and one was not, as we pulled both and bench tested with 12 volts. One worked one did not. The working fan was the one normally on the left or drivers side. However we put it back on the Passenger side, and the bad fan was left off the car. Leaving no fan on the drivers side. So you stated: "The cooling fan itself could be test if one fan is still working swap or (sorry I have a great deal of electronics background) jump the fan to 12volts and make sure it works...If it works then you have either a sensor, relay, or wiring issue." So we already did do what you recommended to see if the fan(s) were good or not before I posted the thread here. We know the one fan in the car is good. We do not know why it is not coming on. We knew at the time it could be a wiring issue (one of the reasons I asked about a wiring schematic), Sensor, switch, or computer issue. That is WHY I posted here. I am looking for more How To trouble shoot information, beyond what we already knew and did before I posted here. I apologize for somehow not making this clear when I started the thread.

Yes it is a 1991 LS 400, sorry I did not state that information, but I thought that is why it shows to the left under my name. Yes compressor is coming on. I know that that knowing is important. That is why I a asking here. Especially in reference to the schematic. I do not understand the statement "temp switch for the fans at the bottom of the radiator ( simplest fix)..." are you saying that if I do something with this switch it is the easiest way to get them working no matter what? The system seems a lot more complicated them that. And I am noit asking about them coming on due to engine temp. But when A/C is on. As turning A/C on is supposed to force the fans on as long as A/C is on... Is it not??? I do appreciate your help, and I am sure you know what you are meaning to say, but unfortunately I do not know what you are trying to tell me. Specifics would be very helpful. That is why I am posting here. I know in general it could be several things.

I am having a major issue with A/C electric cooling fans under the hood (A/C Condenser Fan Assembly). The twin electric fans that come on to help cool the A/C condenser are not working. This issue came up when fixing a leak in the A/C system. On putting the fans back in place it was discovered that a bird was badly mangled in the fan on the right or passenger side. Due to this bird jamming that fan, the motor is dead. When given direct voltage the other fan (drivers or left side works). To try to get my car on the road as we look for a replacement fan, we moved the drivers side fan to the right passenger side. As this is more inline to cool the condenser coils. But when we turn the A/C on, the fan is not coming on. Does anyone know how to test this to find out if it is a bad connection, or is the brain that controls the fans messed up?? Do both fans have to be connected for the system to turn them on? Or can you cheat with only one fan for a short time? A wiring diagram would be great. As we may have a grounding issue. Also anyone know where to get a replacement fan or motor without going though Lexus?

I would say if it has been more then a month or two and he is having no issues then things should not be effected by the left over old oil.. But that is a guess on my part.

The issue "we" are having is flushing the system. Most ac systems you pull he compressor and drain the oil from the built in reserve. However Lexus uses a custom compressor that has no oil reserve in it. "The system also has four pressure ports in it instead of two . Along with other unique to it things. So "we" can not find information on how to properly flush the system correctly. And were the system has it's oil reserve, and the such. I found directions from Lexus on how to do the conversion. However it simply says to flush the system. It does not say or give info on "how". The system must be flushed of as much of the old oil as can be done. Leaving to much of the old iol is not a good thing.

I am feeling that way. It is at the mechanics for the conversion of the AC fro r12 to 134a. But can't figure out for sure how to flush the oil out. But that is another story. I was going to do the brakes and fix the door handle when I got the car back.. But life is messing with me... So .... I have now told the shop to fix the door and do the front brakes (rotors are warped)

Thank you. I know his sit well. Already printed it out. I strongly suspect the rod came off from the door handle. Anyone know how it clips on and where to get replacement clips??

That is what I am thinking. The car is now at that age where plastic stuff is just falling apart with out even touching it. Frustrating as it is a good car and runs good... But little thing and not so little thing one after the other... Is no fun...

On my 91 LS 400 the front outside passenger door handle stopped working. The outside keyed door lock will still lock and unlock the car but pulling on the handle does nothing. I can open the door with the inside handle. What is the fix for this and what stopped working or broke? I did try looking for info at https://techinfo.toyota.com/ but must have used the wrong words as found nothing.

I went to https://techinfo.toyota.com/ and paid the 15.00 Nothing dead on for what I need. But printed outabout100 pages of stuff to take to the mechanic in the a.m.. If anyone has any info I would still appreciate it.

I would love any info he can give. At one time I would have tried to do it myself, but these days my boddy does not like me doing those things... I did do it myself when I had a 84 Saab. But that was a very long time ago, and a much simpler extreamly easy to get to system.

One of the first places I looked was over at Lexis.com. Good guy, but did not have what I needed. I will stop over at techinfo to see what I can see, but I believeI need more then diograms and parts ID. I need directions. Got to be on the web someplace.....

My A/C is out. I have a leak in the system. It is small, but I need to fix it. After researching I have decided to convert to 134A. My research was reading posts online, and calling about 6 repair places in major cities to see what they recommended I'm in a rural area. So first I convert the system. Fill with 134a and then look for the hard to find leak. I took the car to my “regular” mechanic. He is a good guy and is honest. But I am the only customer around with a Lexus. In fact to find a guy that “works” on Lexus day in and day out, it is a 150 mile trip. Anyway he is working on it. Or trying to… His plane is to evacuate the system, flush it, change the fittings, replace the dryer, etc, and then fill with 134a and oil, and UV dye. He is having a hard time figuring out how to get to the parts he needs to get to as the Lexus routing of stuff is different. So I am looking for any diagrams or tutorials I can find. Anyone know of any???? If needed it is a1991 Lexus LS400. I did some Googling and Bing'ing, and forum searches, but today just has not been my day. In particular he needs any directions on retrofitting this A/C system, how to get into the system. What of the four service ports are for what (which ones does he connect to for charging, gauges flushing, and so on) , how to flush the lines and drain compressor, best way to clean evaporator and dealing with the expansion valve (replace it or clean it and how to clean) on the fire wall. As always I thank you folks. Oh I told him I would take my time to research it etc.. My time is cheeper then his.... :P

I would tap the fuse block with a fused line befor taping the ignition wire. It does not matter if it is switched or not.

I was thinking of poking around under the power seat with a volt meter.. After all how often do I move the seat.. Not much at all. If needed mine is a 91 LS400 USA. Right now it is in the shop getting the ac converted to 134A. As it has a leak and staying with r12 is just to expensive. And weekend temps are expected to be 120 so working ac is more imporant right now that playing with a "new" 12 volt power wire. Im sure someone is going to ask... I live in Arizona... The hot part of it !!!

Thank you. The wireing giude is good info. I am thinking are there wires that may be sandard but not "used" that I could tap into. My car did not have the cell phone kit. It does not have heated seats ( don't know were they offered on the 91??)... So could I tap those wires and get say a 15 amp to 20 amp line?