mikey00

I thought we had 2 seperate issues here right from the beginning. First is the reverse and foward shifting issue. It sounds like you may have this fixed with the new sensors, which only time will tell. If the trans problem is fixed, I wouldn't go looking for a tube of some sort of trans conditioner. Also, I don't think the sky is falling just because they used a compatible transmission fluid rather than genuine Toyota type T-IV. If it were me, I would get some life out of the fluid and then go back to Toyota type T-IV in the future with a flush or multiple drain and fills. Second is the check engine light which went out on it's own and we thought may have been fixed with you cleaning the maf. But the CEL is back now. A P1130 is a Air Fuel Ratio sensor (bank 1 sensor 1). Here is a link to a previous discussion on the sensor complete with a pic of its location and a source for the part. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364261

Thx...will order them and post what happens.You guys have been great :D What makes them go bad? How do they go bad? Do they lose their magnetic pull.....? <_< Not sure. I was lucky, I just cleaned mine and swapped their positions and the problem never returned.

"Before the sensors were swapped the transmission would shift hard between 1st and 2nd. After the sensors were switched the car has run like a dream until the reverse issue today...." That certainly makes it look like a sensor issue. I would get 2 new ones. The RX used 2 different types of sensors with a slightly different connection. Make sure you read my post about getting the right ones so they fit the connector in your RX. Rock Auto is the cheapest at about $70 ea. The Lexus dealer will get $90. + for them.

ok thx... I really don't think the scan tool is going to help here without getting a check engine light. The sensors in the RX act up and send out bad readings causing trans problems like the reverse issue. Problem is the ECM is not recognizimng sensor failure and does not generate a code. I know there are OBDII codes for the sensor, that you will get if the sensor flat out fails, but that is not the case. I am sure you have the sensors clean, because I have done this before and there is not much to it. Just wipe it off. The big question here is: Does the RX react differently when the sensors are swapped?. You may want to swap again to verify this. I would expect you to have the reverse issue when they are in one position and some kind of foward shifting issue when they are in the other position. If this is the case one of the sensors must be bad. I would just replace them both. If you are going to do this you have to verify which ones you have. They are either Aisin Seiki or Toyota. The Aisin Seiki are labeled Aisin Seiki on one side of the sensor and Toyota on the other side. I am not sure how the Toyota ones are labeled, most likely Toyota on both sides. You can get them from rockauto.com for about $70/each. They are under cruise control sensors. I don't really suspect the fluid unless they didn't use a compatible fluid. If that's the case you could do another flush to get all the fluid out and replace with Toyota type T-IV. If it were me lastly I would drop the trans pan to make sure the trans filter isn't plugged. This shouldn't be the case as the factory filter is a free flowing screen. Unless someone changed it to a paper filter when they serviced the trans previously.

Any thoughts on how long before I know if this problem is really fixed? That's a tough question. It all depends on the frequency of the problems you were having and how many cycles you go through problem free before feeling comfortable that it is fixed.

I didn't change my WP when the belt was done at 90k and won't change it when the belt is done again at 180k. This is based on info I received from multiple Toyota techs claiming the WP does not fail and changing it is a waste. I think Lexus techs have a better comp plan because they always want to change as many expensive parts as possible.

It's impossible to tell if they did a flush or not. Being that you really have no reason to doubt them, they most likely did the flush as requested. A flush often moves dirt around in the trans and can deposit it on a sensor and cause problems (that's what happend to me). As long as they used a compatible fluid (even though it wasn't genuine Lexus/Toyota), I wouldn't worry about it. If you really wanted to go back to Lexus/Toyota fluid you would have to do another flush using Lexus/Toyota fluid. A drain and fill only removes about 1/2 of the fluid. As long as everything is working fine, I would let things be.

First off, don't get under the car to look for sensors, as advised. They are on the top of the trans and not visible from underneath the car. One is directly underneath the air box and you need to remove the air box to see it. Removing the air box is not that hard. The other sits at about a 45 degree angle facing the battery and can be seen without removing anything. A flush sometimes moves some small metallic dust around in the trans and it ends up clinging to these magnetic sensors causing them to malfunction. I would pull both of them, clean them and swap their positions without disconnecting the battery cable. This will most likely fix your reverse issue and stands a chance of fixing other issues as well. If it doesn't fix anything you now have to make the decision of getting the codes read or just disconnecting the battery and resetting everything. My personal preference would be to just reset everything and give it a try. If the problem is still there the code will return, so nothing lost. If the problem is fixed, who cares what the code was. As far as the trans fluid goes, it sounds to me like the shop used a compatible fluid and if you wanted genuine Lexus (Toyota Type T-IV) they would need a heads up. Sounds fair enough. You may want to verify this with them. Given the known trans problems with the RX many, myself included, prefer to use nothing but Toyota Type T-IV. Others have used a compatible fluid without any problems. As long as that's what they did you should be fine. Here is a pic of the sensors on a trans and I have basic removal directions in the post below the pic. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...t=speed+sensors

I would keep your troubleshooting simple at first. I assume you know how the auto mode works and that it does vary the fan speed depending on the temp set. Being that your problem started after the cabin air filter change, check here first. Removing the cabin air filter is very, very easy. Open the glove box. There is a plastic piece on the back that lifts out. Behind that is a plastic door that you open to get at the cabin air filter. Pull out the filter put the plastic back on and run it a bit and see if you notice any difference. If that doesn't do it, I would try resetting all the electronics next. Disconnect your negative battery cable for a few minutes to do this. Alexander the o.k.: Are you sure your link for retriveing codes works on a RX? It looks to me like SK was referring to a pre-OBDII vehicle.

This place has keys reasonablly priced and they can get a key code from the VIN. http://www.toy-lex.com/

Yes. You don't actually program the key. What you actually do is program the RXs security system to accept the key. Here are some directions: http://www.toy-lex.com/programming11.html

Everything I said so far has pertained to a 2001. I re-read your first post and now realize you have a 2000. I must have got a little confused with your name RX300-01. Anyway, 2001 with the towing prep package requires part # 08921-48070 ($99 at newlexusparts.com). This is a power module that plugs in by the spare tire and mounts on 2 studs already there and wiring that plugs in to the pigtail under the car. I think the 20a fuse that goes in the fuse box is also included. Very easy install. 1999 and 2000 with the towing prep package require part #08921-48070 which has been replaced by 08921-48051 ($171 at newlexusparts.com). I think this will also work on 1999-2000 without towing prep package, you just won't have the trans cooler. This is the power module plus more wiring then what comes in the 2001 kit. This wiring plugs into connectors in the cargo area and requies removing panels inside the cargo area to get at the connectors. This install is a little more difficult and although it sounds long to me, people in the past have reported 4 hours for install. The Lexus kits supply the neatest install and are also the most expensive. You may want to investigate e-trailer, u-haul and the other hitch sites and see if there are cheaper alternatives.

Thanks very much GDixon, mikey00, 1. the picture 5, 6 as GDixon mentioned does not apply to my car since there is no where to be found in the cargo area. 2. i don't see any box the mikey00 mentioned also, I also remove the plastic box right under the spare and did not find the wire too. I have finally called Lexus of StevenCreek and they told me I still need to order the converter box assembly cost $220... I will have to find a different cheaper solution somewhere but 220 is a lot of $$$ for me now... by the way, it makes me wonder if my realy have the Transmission Oli Cool installed as specify on the windows sticker... Any thought on where I can look for in the engine compartment??? again really appreciate for your help. So far everything seems right with your RX. You have no reason to doubt that you have the towing prep package. In my previous post I mentioned you would need electronic module. You need to add (buy) this to the towing prep package. That's the converter box the dealer is referring to. The other plastic box I was refering to is accessed from under the car. It is about 10 in wide and about 24 in long. It is held on by a nut front and back that should be quite rusted by now. Inside that is a plug to connect your wiring harness to. I am pretty sure it is on a short pigtail and has some kind of protective cap on it. If your window sticker said towing prep package, I can guarantee you have the trans cooler. If you want to verify, look at the front passanger side inside fender well. At the front of the tire you will see some louvers cut into the fender well liner. Peak inside and you will see a small radiator type device. I think your expectations of the towing prep package are a little higher than what it actually is.

They are Lexus prices. Go to irontoad.com. Also prices at newlexusparts.com are usually about the same. I think you will find most of the parts can't be sourced from Toyota. Lexus and Toyota both use the same part numbering system. Sometimes you need to drop the "-" from the number for it to work in the Toyota system. But for the part number to be in the Toyota system the part must be used on a Toyota model. For example the RX rear pads are also used on the 4 cyl. Toyota Highlander so they show up in the Toyota system. The RX front pads are not used on any Toyota models so they show up as an invalid part #. In comparing the available parts there is no money to be saved here by using Toyota. Just buy using Lexus discounter.

It's been a few years since I have investigated this on my 01 with towing prep package so I will do the best I can going from memory. In 2001 even with towing prep package a few things need to be added to make wiring work. First there is the electronic module which gets plugged in up in the spare tire area where there is a stud to mount it on. Second the wiring gets plugged into a pigtail accessed from under the car. Take off the black plastic cover directly under the spare and you will find it in there. Lastly, you need to add a fuse in the fuse box. Many in the past have assumed they had the electronic modle because they had towing prep package and tried to make things work with just the wiring and fuse but found out differently. It looks to me like the PDF and directions in the above posts are for 2005 and newer.

You are not the first one to have trouble with those screws, others have resorted to vise grips. This link points to IACV screw problems but I thought it may be helpful: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=30723 I have not had any experience with the advance machines you mentioned but maybe someone else can comment. For $80 I think I would get it done. Just remember check good for exhaust leaks first. A exhaust leak would most likely even fool that sacnner. In 2000 there was some kind of problem with a exhaust manifold weld and also with the flex piece after the manifold which you will see from underneath the car. These leaks often showed as CELs indicating sensor failures. You may be able to find additional info on these subjects by searching the forum. (search is at bottom left)

Front Rotor 43512-48011 Rear Rotor (2wd) 42431-33030 Rear Rotor (4wd) 42431-33140 Front Pads 04465-48060 Rear Pads 04466-33050 Rotors are about $80 ea Pads are about $45 per axle

It is important that you keep an eye on the trans fluid and do drain and fills to keep the fluid clean but that is not the problem here. With certain CELs the ECU does not allow the trans to shift into overdrive and that is what is happening here. In most cases cleaning the MAF fixes this code. Another common cause on 2000 and older RXs is the exhaust flex piece after the exhaust manifold leaking. You may also want to check out obd-codes.com for some other ideas. The P0330 is usually a knock sensor. I would clean or replace the MAF to fix P0171 and hope it also clears the knock sensor code. If not you may to check here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...sor+replacement

I remember this being discussed a few years back and the consensus was it is an interference engine. The confusion started when Gates listed the engine as non-interference in their timing belt replacement chart. It has since been changed. I did email them and the answer came back interference engine but they did admit that they reply on the info verbally communicated to them from Lexus shops. Others have cited numerous info indicating interference engine.

Absent having accured in excess of 150,000 I will not consider replacing the timing belt in my '01 AWD RX300. The timing belt that was removed from my '92 LS at 153,000 miles looked as if it was ready for the NEXT 150,000 miles. And the issue of replacing the water pump is nothing more than an "old wives tale". Long ago water pumps often failed due to failure of the internal seal protecting the "nose" bearing, the ONLY bearing, from failure due to coolant getting into it. To help prevent that all water pumps have a "weep" hole/opening so the small amounts of coolant getting past the seal can simply drain away onto the street. Basically the improvement in those seals over the years has resulted in such a low water pump failure rate that replacing them as a preventative maintainance measure is a waste. I have to agree with you on both counts. I am sure my timing belt would have gone at least double what I had it replaced at. But Toyota had a coupon for about $320 and it was in the Lexus manual as required maintenance , so I caved in. But then again torqueing drive shaft bolts are also in the manual and who does that. At least Toyota was up front with me when I enquired about water pump and idler. I pretty much got the same answer from 2 Toyota service writers and 2 Toyota techs: "We see a lot of these engines and the WP and idler do not fail". They do however check them when replacing the TB. I bet a Lexus tech would have a different answer. Lexus techs are most likely on a more agressive comp plan.

If you have very litle experience with cars, the timing belt may not be the place to start learing. It is much more difficult then the typical do it yourself project. My suggestion would be to get it done at a Toyota dealer, should be less than $400.

Both my 2000RX and now my 2001RX use regular. I did experiment a little with higher octane to see if there was any benefit and there wasn't. My 01 is now at 130,000 miles. I have never had a valid check engine light or any sensor failure and the plugs looked new when changed at 125,000. If you find better performance with higher octane it is only because your wallet is lighter. Some older RXs may benefit from a higher octane if they have a lot of carbon buildup due to many short trips,etc. or maybe you bought it used and are not sure of it's past use. In this case I would be more inclined to investigate carbon removal products before going to a steady diet of preimum. There has been at lot of discussion about fuel requirements in the past. Do a search on "octane" in this forum for info. Even a survey at this link: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...ighlight=octane

Genunine Lexus replacement backs are available on ebay for about $15. Another option is cover your key with a rubber jacket. They will hold a broken key together and are also a good idea for a key before it breaks to protect it from breaking. Mine came from thejacketstore.com.

The CEL could have been caused by something as simple as a gas cap not on tight. I would first reset the light and if it comes back you know you have a valid code. If it never comes back, who cares what it was. Save yourself $30 and reset it yourself. Just pull the EFI fuse for a minute or pull the neg battery cable for a minute.

Most likely your haedlight aim sensor is corroded. Hear is a link with some info. A search may yield more. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...headlight+level