mikey00

I agree on this one. I think there is some component failing in this trans causing the fluid comtamination and not the other way around, contaminated fluid causing failure. I am on a 15k drain and fill schedule, but even if I upped it to a weeklly drain and fill, I think this trans, in time, will fail.

Here you go: http://www.lstechnologies.ca/index.htm

Here is a DIY for the trans complete with pictures. http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/xmission_fluid_change1.htm

I checked with 4 different Toyota people on this, 2 service advisors and 2 techs. Everyone pretty much had the same answer. The wp is designed to last the life of the engine and rarely does it fail on this engine. When they do timing belt they check pump bearing and inspect for leaks. If necessary they change the wp but almost never. If I insisted, though, they would very graciously take my money and do it for me. Plus I was already having trouble justifying $339 to change a belt that no one has ever known to fail even when run well over 100K. I really didn't want to add to the cost by changing good parts just on the rare chance that they may fail someday. It also seems most agree that it is a non-intergference engine, except for the Gates Brochure, which may just be a typo. The car is over 5 years old with 90K on it and the owners manual recommended it, so I went for it.

My local Toyota dealer ran a coupon for 15% off on a 6 cylinder timing belt, normally $399.99, now $339.99. I was due for my 90K service so I had him do the belt, brake fluid flush, coolant service, oil and filter. I did a drain and fill on the transmission, changed the air filter and cleaned the cabin air filter myself before I took the RX in for service. Total cost for my 90K service was just a little over $500.

Thanks, guys. I am a bit unfamiliar with the accessory belt and V-belt. Could you guys provide some insight into what they are and what purpose they serve? I'll probably go pick up a can of the belt dressing and try that out. Where are these belts located? Thanks! The belts are on the passenger side of the engine. Looking from the front with the hood open the one in the front is the a/c, alternator belt and the one below and to the rear is the power steering pump belt. The timing belt is enclosed and can not be seen.

Really? You waited that long to change the belt. That sounds risky. I have this notion that one should replace the belt around 100K. If the belt breaks, severe problem can result but not sure if the RX has the same risk. I think tune up can wait. If the car doesn't miss a beat, it probably is not necessary to get it tune up. I bet that someone might think otherwise. ← RX300's engine is non-interfering. If the timing belt broke, nothing in engine will be damaged. The RX has an interference engine according to Gates. http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_co...folder=brochure

Another thing to take into consideration is long term service cost. Lexus is a premium brand and the dealers work this to the max when pricing service. I bet Acura is the same. The Honda should be more reasonable more like Toyota.

It's most likely the v-belt. You can pick up a can of belt dressing and spray it on when it's making the noise. If the noise goes away, you found it. Have the v-belt changed. The timing belt is not due to 90K and most likely would last much longer than that. As far as the brake fluid goes, it should be changed every 30k per the RX owners manual.

I just did mine too. It had 15K on it was still somewhat red but was slowly going over to the black side. I don't drop the pan but I do a drain and fill using both the transmission pan drain plug and the front differential drain plug. It takes just about 5 qts. I am going to continue on a 15k drain and fill schedule, which I think is excessive, but I want to give this trans every chance of survival. However, I do believe there is a design problem in this model trans and even a weekly drain and fill or a weekly flush will not prevent its eventual failure.

A battery is only $39 at Costco. It's the fastest and cheapest troubleshooting you can do. Even if Lexus gives you a pro-rated warranty on the battery, they will still get you for at least $100.

Front 4 piston calipers double the clamping force because it is clamping on both sides of the rotor, not to mention that is on top of larger caliper surface (2 pistons on a side vs 1) and larger rotor size. Check out LS's rear rotor, it is vented and again larger in size than RX's rear. That combination is more than 10%. That design is more than 10 years old, now newer LS430 has boosted up its brake design. Each of its own, for me, I would like to have a little more insurance when it comes to brakes. If I travel 50mph down the street with my family on board and a druken driver just ran a red light, I am not thinking I have a sport car, a SUV, or a luxury sedan, I slam on my brake to stop so we don't get crushed. If given a choice, I would rather have engine to underperform than my brake underperform. I guess others may think they would never get into such situations then RX's brake is perfectly fine for them. This discussion has really gone off the deep end. I'm outta here.

What's your point? I only said I thought the RX has good stopping power and I still do. I don't doubt that if you look long and hard enough something somewhere will stop quicker. Although the StopTech article provided no data to support this.

I agree stopping power is a primary feature, that's why I listed it as number one in my personal observation of the RX brakes and it was also listed in lenore's observations. I don't put much weight on the data you supplied above. They were 2 different groups performing the tests at 2 different times on 2 different surfaces. Just for example in 9/03 Consumer Reports tested the RX330 60-0 stopping distance at 134' and the X5 at 136'. At least this is the same testers on the same track but it's the 330 not the 300. If you read the Edmunds report that you supplied the link to above you will see that the number is actually 134 not 132 as you stated above. It looks a little suspicious that CR and Edmunds came up with the exact number but I guess it is possible.

Other than the rust ring, I thought the RX has a pretty good brake system. Good stoping power, very few complaints about warped rotors or need for rotor replacements, pads last a long time with even front to rear wear. From my own experience and posts on the RX forums most get 70k to 80K on a set of pads.

I stayed with the stock Lexus pads for the same reasons you listed above. You may want to check the price at irontoad.com. Being that they have Lexus part number you don't have to worry about matching them up with a Toyota number. Same price as Toyota dealer and they come right to your door in just a few days. Don't worry about the wear indicators mentioned in the previous post. They are just small metal clips that you remove from the old pads and put on the new. Takes 2 seconds. Or order new ones with the pads.

If you found out about the hose behind the air filter box I guess you finally got around to doing a search. Don't forget about the gas cap.

I do like that method much better than a flush, but I think I will stick with my drain and fill every 15K.

You need 2 rear hatch lift supports. Bad news is the dealer gets about $500 for 2 installed and no aftermarket companies make them to fit the RX. There is a outfit in Canada that rebuilds them but shippping back and forth accross the border is more of a hassle than it is worth. You can get oem ones from an online Lexus dealer for about $128 each. Here is a link: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808

I just got a replacement key for one of my other cars, a Pontiac Vibe, at Walmart, total cost 97 cents. I hope I never need one for the RX.

That's an old Gates document posted on audiworld. The new one shows the RX as having an interference engine.

You may want to pull the ABS fuse and do a test run. If nothing else, this will at least eliminate the ABS as a possible cause. ← Easier said than done. Has anyone tried to pull the ABS fuse? I tried and can't get it off, I even tried a pair of plier. thanks Lexus.:chairshot: ← There should be 2 ABS circuit breakers in the engine compartment fuse box. I know others had the ABS sensor ring fail, which is part of the axle, and pulled the circuit breakers rather than have the whole axle replaced. Of course, now they don't have ABS, but it is better than it activating all the time. I am not sure if there is a trick to pulling the breakers and I can't check right now because the wife is out with the car.

You may want to pull the ABS fuse and do a test run. If nothing else, this will at least eliminate the ABS as a possible cause.

DataDots do not make your HIDs unusable and do very little to prevent theft of HIDs. A theif will have no problem making your DataDot HIDs work in his Honda Civic or selling them to one of his freinds to do the same. It is also reported that theives are just ripping out most anti theft clamps, bolts, etc when they go after the HIDs. Mercedes Benz reports fewer HID thefts due to increased protection from the bumper. DataDots are more effective as a total car theft deterrent where the DataDots are hidden all over the car. The thought being that a theif may remove most of them but will most likely miss some of them which may allow the car to be traced back to its owner.

On Lexus's website, lexus.com, Lexus has an "Owner FAQ" with hundreds of answers to hundreds of questions. Here's one question / answer pertaining to transmission fluid: Transmission fluid Question How long can transmission fluid last? Lexus's Answer "If a vehicle is driven under light usage, the transmission fluid may last 60,000 miles or longer. The 2004 LS, GS, and LX models introduced "WS" transmission fluid, which may last the life of the vehicle." So as you can see Lexus is not claiming "Type IV fluid is good for the life of the transmission" but only that it MAY last 60,000 if the vehicle is driven under light usage. Every RX300 Scheduled Maintenance Guide booklet says the fluid level should be checked every 30,000 miles. The factory service manual goes one step further and says the fluid condition should be inspected at that interval as well and changed if it should signs of deterioration. I agree the RX300 Scheduled Maintenance Guide booklet is not real clear about when fluid changes are needed, but when Lexus dealers and the Lexus website try to clarify matters for owners and try to pursuade them to do a pan drain and refill every 15K or total fluid replacement every 30K instead of being appreciative, the owners think the dealer is trying to rip them off and make money on a service that isn't needed. So the Lexus dealer is caught between a rock and a hard place. ← Why then did Lexus go the extra step of labeling every ATF dipstick with "No need to change ATF under normal driving conditions"