bartkat

The above posts are correct. Also a visual exam willl often show some oil leakage from bad shocks. That's a dead giveaway that the seals are going.

It's not unusual for new tires to drive awhile, break them in, and then rebalance. There's all sorts of possibilities here, but not always the machine or the operator.

Look for "paintless dent removal". The people who do hail damage can do it with similar tools.

They might not last as long as iridium, but they should give good performance. Here's some info. http://www.rpmoutlet.com/ngkinfo.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars...suvs/vpower.asp

I figger that you need to leave that concrete on there longer. The longer it sits, the less it will adhere, and then it should just pop off. Probably will leave a dull spot behind, which can be touched up with wax.

On my IS 300 the entire lower skirt has that protective stuff on it.

Plain water with just a few drops of vinegar. And, of course, lint free towells.

When I got a new car and wasn't driving my Firebird much, I decided to put some "fuel stabilizer" in the tank. A couple weeks later I took it out for a drive. After driving about 40 miles, I went down to a road we used to use for accelration tests. The best time I ever had turned there was 92 MPH. That day I easily turned two runs of 95 MPH. (it's rougly a 1/4 mile. I figure the performance had dropped gradually over the 90.000 miles I had driven the car and I hadn't noticed it. The fuel stabilizer had similar ingredients as injector cleaner. I'm now convinced that it made the difference, even after using mostly "techron" gas for most of the 8 years I had the car.

I posed a reply on another thread about the service bulletin on IS 300 E shift, not going to repeat it here.

If you have E shift the problem shifting from 1 to 2 is partly because 2 is a 1st gear overdrive. It's a kind of slushy slow shift. 2001 and ealy 2002 vehicles had a service bulletin on this and dealers were able to make some improvement. Mine had the upgrade and it only gives me the slow shift at wide open throttle. The problem seems to be electronic. Check the topic "ECU Flash" on the link here. http://www.is300forum.com/fix/index.html Here's a site where you can find IS300 service bulletins. Just change the car to your year and model. http://www.alldata.com/TSB/31/02310815.html

Yes.

Somebody started a thread abouty a BOV sim just the other day. Why would you want a BOV if you don't have a turbo anyway?

Here's my 2002 IBP http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/bartkat/v...rc=ph%26.view=t

You can to to www.edmunds.com and plug in your zip code, then select the car and options and get the invoice price, retail price, and their "fair market value" price.

http://www.takakaira.com/accessories/night...nightpager.html

Here's some places to start. Then maybe search on some of the brands they have. http://www.is300.net/store/customer/home.php http://www.i-m-racing.com/lexusis300.html http://www.lextasy.com/storeb/agora.cgi?xm...m=on&product=IS

Here's a pic DIY for removing headlights. http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=226292

Sounds like it may be more serious than this, but it might help to dress all the rubber trunk seals with spray silicone. It softens them up and may provide a more effective seal. Same goes for the tail light gaskets. Also if somethings going to leak, it will usually do so a high pressure automatic "touchless" car wash.

People often sell their stock IS wheels when they get upgrades. They're often for sale on Ebay or some of the Lexus forums. Sometimes they are even selling the wheels with snow tires already on them.

If you work on the brakes with any fluid lines open, you have to bleed any air out of the lines so the entire system is full of fluid with no air inside. Otherwise, the aire can be compressed and the brakes won't function properly.

:D

Here's one way to make the fog lights work without the headlights on. You'll have to get this before it gets deleted. http://is300.net/modules.php?name=Columns&...ge&pid=17&cid=7

There is a small inverter box near the fuse box under the hood. This box has a "warning hot" type label on it. The DRL are plugged into this box. Just pull the plug and the lights won't come on with the ignition. Your high beams will still work.

When shifting a trans without syncrhonizers, as in some older trucks, you push in the clutch, rev the engine, then clutch again and shift. Its a way to try and match engine to trans revs to ease the shift. However the following is probably more appropriate to your question. "Double-clutching is the proper way to downshift at speed without placing excessive wear on the transmission's synchronizers. This allows you to select a much lower gear without the tell-tale lurch you normally get when the clutch is let out after downshifting. " "When downshifting my BMW M5 from 4th gear to 2nd at 50 mph, I need to raise the engine speed from 2200 rpm to 5000. To prevent excessive synchroniser wear, the clutch is depressed and the shifter is moved to neutral. The clutch is then released, and the gas is depressed to bring the engine speed up to where it needs to be for the lower gear. The clutch is then depressed again and the shift lever moved into the lower gear. When the clutch is released the second time, the engine is already turning the proper speed . While this sounds complicated, it's easier done than said, and only takes about a second. " http://www.driversedge.com/dblcltch.htm

I've seen keys for sale on ebay.