bartkat

Go here and plug in your data and you can get the maintenance schedule. http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/vehicle.do

AMSOIL Automatic Transmission Fluid Now Recommended for Toyota and Honda Applications http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/au...oyota_Honda.htm

Technical Service Information Bulletin Please refer to the following table for correct application of Dexron III (Dexron II) and Toyota Type T-IV Automatic Transmission Fluids or equivalent. http://www.clublexus.com/index.php/fileman.../246/tc001l.pdf

BO007-03 SEP 03 Interior - Trim Panel Removel/Installation Precautions

You just gotta take them out and take apart and reseal them. Or maybe find a set on Ebay.

oopsie

A good tire shop should have a radial runout guage. They can turn the wheels on the car and measure if they are out of round. Could also be a bent wheel.

I don't have one of those cars, but this is a great thread start and the info is interesting and helpful.

I guess if I was gonna fix that, I'd roll it back a few miles or so while I was at it.

Damn. That's rotten, especially with Toyota touting those hybrid cars so much. :(

You got a new SC430 and you want to mod it? Come on man, don't try to pull my leg. Just pop the rocks out of the tire treads and wipe out the fender well liners every time you park it. :D

Jgr7 bartkat

1. All manufacturers, luxury or not must meed CAFE standards. If you look at the RX 300 EPA estimated gas mileage goes from 20 in 1999 to 26 for the 2004 models. So even the big boys have to do something to make their fleet average mileage meet CAFE. 2. RX 300 is an SUV with a tall profile, and a CD higher than a sedan. Part of the mieage problem is going to be wind drag at speeds above 55 MPH. However, your 20 MPG is much better than a comparable SUV from the late 1980's, which were lucky to get 16-18 MPG highway average. 3. You can holler all you want about dirt in the engine, but all other things being equal, a more deeply pleated and layered aftermarket filter will allow better air flow and clean just as well for a longer time period than a stock filter of the same porosity, but less layers and less overall area. 4. Oil on the MAF is moot. If the filter is cleaned and oiled properly, that's just not gonna happen. 5. You have EGR, an air pump, a catalytic converter system, an ECU that tries to keep emissions low, and more that all works in conjunction to keep emissions down. Even with an aftermarket intake, you still hook up the EGR reabreather hose and the gas tank vapor canister hose, so there's no chages made to emissions controls. 6. VVT? Why did they come up with that? It's so the engine can run with low emissions at normal loads, but still give some increase in performance whan you mash down on the throttle, that's all. 7. If the engineers didn't have to worry about any of the above and wished to sacrifice a little smoothness, they'd be pumping out 3 liter engines with 300 HP, and that would be more "optimized" performance, right off the assembly line and into a showroom near you.

Performance is compromised by meeting emissions regulations, and somwhat of a demand for half decent gas mileage. Smoothness and quietness are also in demand by most buyers. Engineering is further compromised by manufacturing techniques, and many other factors. Performance is by no means optimized on the average, everyday automobile as it comes from the factory.

Please refer to my post #3, above. I've used Bill's Quick Lube for over 10 years and I always specify a Toyota filter which is only a couple bucks extra.

Recommended tire pressure is 34 PSI front and rear. I usually run 36, especially if I'm doing lots of highway driving. A drop in ambient temperature will cause your tire pressures to drop. That's something that happens this time of year. The seat warmers cycle on and off and should maitain a nice comfy warmth. You really don't need them on after the whole car warms up. Regular maintence like oil changes, etc. are ok done by someone other than Lexus. Just be sure to keep your receipts. There is no "performance chip" for IS300's. All engine management is done by the ECU. If you do lots of mods, then consider a stand-alone module, such as Hal-Tech. Without serious mods, you really shouldn't need it though.

Let's face it guys, all intakes and filters suck.

The prices you find online are selling prices, not asking prices. Blue Book prices are derived from actual sales. It's your choice man. I doubt there's any profit in selling a car you've had for awhile. Maybe price it between wholesale and private sale value. If selling to a friend, get the money up front. It's easy to lose a friend over a car deal.

Stick a small screwdiver between the tab and the pins and the blade assembly should pop loose so you can slide it off the hook.

Kewl. Isn't Shropshire the home of the famous sheep? When I was a kid on the farm in Ohio people had shropshire sheep and we had hampshire pigs. :D

That's another good reason he should check on Edumds.com and plug in his zip code. Prices do vary by location.

It is not as easy to collect as oil or tranny fluid, and there is way more of it. Around my parts it is illegal if any goes into the street sewer. I just can't be bothered with the possibilities of "what could happen" that's all. In addition, The ES also has a particular refill procedure that can be tricky if not done right. I leave mine to the dealer. steviej ← That's correct, plus if one is flushing there's all that water which is conaminated with coolant and it has to go somewhere. I had the private garage that does my work, flush and replace the coolant and the brake fluid for my 30,000 mile inspection. He used all Toyota products and it cost me a mere $79 for the whole deal.

On what car?

Trade in = $18,324 Private sale = $20,344 Dealer retail = $22,382 You can run the appraisal program here. http://www.edmunds.com/used/2001/lexus/is3...e.num1.1.lexus*

JoeZ is the guy that makes the JoeZ intake, and some other neat IS300 stuff. http://www.is300.net/forums/showthread.php?t=156138