jaswood

Disconneting the battery with the engine running is a really BAD idea.

Ebay.

"..It just flashes as it is idling.." ONLY at idle...? Then your battery voltage is too low during idle, probably as a result of weak or failing alternator/regulator. Did you clean/burnish the battery posts/connections before reconnecting..?

Clean the MAF/IAT sensor elements.

To what "alternator fuse" are you referring? The 120A fusible link? Yes the 120A orielly's said battery and altenator reading good! light is off now still please give some answers really could use some. If the 120 amp fuse is getting blown, it is most likely a chafed (or nicked insulation) on the main wire from the alternator which is touching chassis ground on occasion. Or whoever installed an alternator did not get the main feed correctly centered and it may intermittently short to ground and take out the fuse. Yes, intermittent SHORT on the alternator side of the fuse, maybe within the alternator itself. Alternators are not generally capable of putting out enough "juice" to blow this fuse.

I think it depends on the formulation of the rubber, etc, compounds in the tire itsself.

Rear bushings, especially diff'l mounting bushings/cushions.

In wintertime, say in MT, parking brakes, e-brakes, are often used to "stabilize" the vehicle, prevent the rear from attempting to lead, on long downhill runs.

Like the tire shop, it's unlikely that even a Lexus dealer will have an A/C specialist on staff. Find an A/C "only" shop.

Since I still have the factory shop/repair manuals for my '92 LS400 I went and had a look there. The '92 also used 4 oxygen sensors, the only difference is that it doesn't show the rear sensors as being self heated like the ones shown for the 95.

Since I still have the factory shop/repair manuals for my '92 LS400 I went and had a look there. The '92 also used 4 oxygen sensors, the only difference is that it doesn't show the rear sensors as being self heated like the ones shown for the 95.

Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of. Some sort of confusion factor going on here. I have to go look at my '92 LS400 factory shop/repair manuals to be sure but off the top of my head it seems to me that it also used 4 oxygen sensors. The front 2 sensors, upstream of the catalyst, are used for controlling the A/F mixture, stoichiometric mixture, for idle and cruise, low engine loading, and the 2nd set downstream of the catalyst to monitor catalyst efficiency. I suspect what has happened in the interim is that the front oxygen sensors are now more commonly referred to as A/F sensors. The only change to those front oxygen sensors that I am aware of was the addition of self-heating to shorten the sensor detection response time when a cold engine is first started. Jaswood- Did you bother to read the entire Denso description??? They clearly explain the difference between the two, O2 sensor as compared to A/f ratio sensor. There is a reason that an A/F ratio sensor is called that, to differentiate between it and an O2 sensor. They are clearly different parts. One WILL NOT work in the place of the other. There is a reason why one costs 4 times what the other does, and it's not called "increased profit"! That's the reason I told you to try switching places on a vehicle that uses both. This is probably not true on your '95, but it is definitely true after they started usinf A/F ratio sensors. They are called "wide band sensors" whereas the O2 sensors are called "narrow band sensors". If you do have ANY intertest in actually learning, there is plenty on the internet that will explain EXACTLY how they work, and the difference between the two. It's obvious you aren't interested in learning, so I officially leave you to your delusions. Goodbye. My '95 LS400 has, uses FOUR oxygen sensors and to date I have changed out three of those, one rear and both fronts. One of the front sensors had the heater fail but I changed both out. Do you know of any reason why the more expensive wideband sensors cannot be used could not be used as plain old "oxygen" sensors downstream of the catalyst...??

HEADS UP...!!! You may not need a new oxygen sensor if you have had a recent VSC or Trac activation, especially for an extended period/time. Prior to DBW adoption (RX330 and beyond) EFI fuel cut/starvation was used to dethrottle the engine. Unless the driver knew to QUICKLY release the gas pedal lots of unburned oxygen will reach the already HOT oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. Not sure why but that appears to temporarily change the composition of the oxygen sensing element and now the oxygen sensor will give out false readings for the next few drive cycles.

Whenever there is a CEL indication VSC and Trac functions are automatically, by default, disabled. Fix/clear the CEL and the VSC/Trac sudtems will go back to normal operation. This goes back to the days prior to DBW when EFI fuel cut/starvation had to be used to dethrottle the engine. Dethrottling the engine via EFI (driver doesn't know to release the throttle and may even react to the dethrottling by going WOT) results in PURE, unburned, oxygen reaching the oxygen sensor and the catalytic converter, not a good thing in either case. So having VSC/Trac continue to operate with a CEL indication can sometimes be comparable, tantamount, to throwing gasoline on a roaring fire.

That is not a fusiable link in the traditional sense. In reality it is simply a short piece of solder used to protect from too much heat if someone holds, forces, the lighter down after it is warm, HOT, enough. Holding it down too long will result in overheating of the "local" area and thereby melt the solder link to prevent more dangerous consequences

Anyone done this...? 250K miles and all three rear diff'l rubber mounting bushings are shot. Shop manual says differential must be removed. I'm pretty sure the diff'l's front/nose bushing/cushion can be replaced easily without removing the diff'l. Not so sure about there diff'l mounting rubber bushings. Anyone...?

http://www.densoaftermarket.com/oxygen-sensor.php 2/3's down the page: Air/Fuel Mixture Sensors "DENSO continues to innovate with the latest development in oxygen sensors, known as air/fuel sensors..."

Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of. Some sort of confusion factor going on here. I have to go look at my '92 LS400 factory shop/repair manuals to be sure but off the top of my head it seems to me that it also used 4 oxygen sensors. The front 2 sensors, upstream of the catalyst, are used for controlling the A/F mixture, stoichiometric mixture, for idle and cruise, low engine loading, and the 2nd set downstream of the catalyst to monitor catalyst efficiency. I suspect what has happened in the interim is that the front oxygen sensors are now more commonly referred to as A/F sensors. The only change to those front oxygen sensors that I am aware of was the addition of self-heating to shorten the sensor detection response time when a cold engine is first started.

Some midwest dealer salespersons sell the same Toyota warrantly for <$800.

Pray tell Jaswood, where did you come up with that information??? I have been down that road and I stand by what I said, the A/F ratio sensors (two) and the Oxygen sensor (there is only one) are NOT the same thing. Why don't you buy a couple of Oxygen sensors (they're a whole lot cheaoer than A/F ratio sensors) and put them in place of the A/F ratio sensors (they will fit!) and see how that works out for ya. While you're at it (hav'in fun that is, put one of the A/F ratio sensors in place of the Oxygen sensor behind the Cat Conv.) Let us know how this experiment works out for ya. Ought to be interesting! The 4 oxygen sensors in my '95 LS400 are exactly the same, the only real difference is that the heating capability is not used in the rear ones. I suppose it might be that someone makes rear ones, cheaper, that do not include the heating element.

The honeycomb structure within your catalytic converter is coming apart, crumbling, and partially or fully blocking the exhaust flow.

Well, it is a full time AWD - 70% of the power goes to the front wheels and 30% goes to the rear. That 70/30 F/R torque split was only true of the 99-00, which happens to be why those transaxles are well known to be so short-lived. As of '01 VSC/TC was adopted and the VC fluid's formulation was revised such that it remains forever "flaccid". As of '01 and after the RX series become a simple one-wheel drive system, simple open differentuals, front, center, and rear, with TC being the only resource for enforcing torque distribution. With the advent of the RX330 and RX350 the VC component was dropped entirely since TC activation never allowed it to be functional anyway. It wasn't until 2010, when the Ford Escape AWD system was adopted, that the RX350 became a somewhat functional AWD system, at least during low speed acceleration, starting out from a stop, etc.

Driving those 60,000 miles without the proper feedback for controlling the A/F mixture might have very well compromised the catalyst in your catalytic converter. The honeycomb structure breaks off in chunks and will often partially BLOCK the exhaust flow.

ost. No, the A/F ratio sensor and the O2 sensor are actually 2 very different parts, and your car has both. The A/F ratio sensors are on each bank of the engine (2). The O2 sensor is behind the catalytic convertor under the drivers seat area (below the floor pan). The PROBLEM is, the parts industry (and maybe even the dealer or manufacturer) have very much confused the picture by calling (and even listing in the parts book) an A/F ratio sensor an oxygen sensor (O2) which it IS NOT! They are 2 very much different parts (that just happen to look a lot alike) and are very definitely NOT interchangeable! No, sorry, but these days (since ~92[?]) all oxygen sensors are the SAME, they're just used for different purposes/reasons. The "front" oxygen sensor(s) are used for controlling the A/F mixture during light engine loads, loading, idle or constant speed cruising. The "rear" oxygen sensor(s) are used to determine if the catalyst is still operating efficiently.

Just keep in mind that it isn't really AWD, most of the time only the front wheels are driven, so don't take it anywhere, or get caught out anywhere, you wouldn't take a simple FWD.