jaswood

It's not just the "position from base" that's the problem- it's the shape of each bulb. Halogen bulbs use a long filament coil that's strung inside, while HID bulbs utilize a small, pea-sized capsule that contains two wires on each end. The light is formed inside the capsule, in the form of an "arc" (like a lightning bolt) going from one end to the other- which illuminates the material in the capsule. The curvature of a halogen reflector/projector is optimized for a long, vertical filament, while an HID reflector/projector is shaped to focus on a very tight pea-sized area. This is why HID units produce such an "even" output, while halogen units cannot. The reason no one has been able to produce a halogen reflector/projector that has such an even light dispersal and sharp cutoff line is because mathematically, it's impossible to produce a paraboloid that has a rectangular focal point (the shape of a filament). Focal points are just that; points. Unlike HID reflectors/projectors, those designed for halogen bulbs aren't perfect paraboloids. They're stretched to accommodate the rectangular pattern of light from a filament. Thus, even if you manage to find a re-based HID bulb (which has been modified so that the capsule is placed the same distance from its base as in a halogen bulb), only a portion of the capsule will be at the modified focal "rectangle" of the halogen reflector. This is the only light that will end up on the road. The light from the pea-sized capsule that's outside the thin "range" of where a filament would be, will now be thrown everywhere else; above the cut-off line, up in the air, etc. as a halogen reflector was not designed for light outside the range of a filament. And dual capsule HID bulbs have the same issue, just twice as bad. And they're moot here as Lexus headlights don't use dual filament bulbs for high/low beams- they have separate bulbs for high and low. Sounds like a lot of doublespeak to me, but..... If you look at the "size" of the halogen filament with respect to the distance of any point on the reflector asssembly the ~1/8" filament length will appear about the same as a distant star to a human eye, a single, small, BRIGHT point of light. But even so, the HID's single point of light is "centered" at the centerpoint of the ~1/8" halogen filament. So if anything is different the distance lighting of a HID within a halogen assembly will yeild more focussed lighting around, near, the downroad point of interest.

Yes, Use FORCE turning the steering wheel HARDER against the object the front tire was forced, rolled, into the last time you parked.

No, the "failsafe" is YOU. Mostly the CEL, Check Engine Light, and it's up to you to pay attention to that and a few other "fail" indications and reach IMMEDIATELY.

Hope this helps...

Our '95 LS400 is approaching 300K, all I ever do just prior to the test is change the oil and filters, oil and air fliters, FULL tank of PREMIUM fuel, drive the car HARD for 15-20 miles, not fast but holding in low gear ratios, and shut down the engine as I progress in line to the test station. Shutting down the engine in line results in a bit of engine overheating which I think is desireable. It got new plugs, finally, at 230,000 miles along with both distributor rotors and caps. EGR valve has been cleaned ~3 times, the MAF/IAT sensors at least once.

And what happens after the engine is detune, it will try to go back to normal until it detects knocking again, then detune again. This cycle happens over and over again, that repeated slight knocking may or may not damage your engine in the long run. I guess I am not willing to take that chance. You seem to be not aware that your ECU "knows" when the car is refueled.

You can buy HID "retrofit" bulbs, "rebased" as you say, that have the electrical arc in exactly the same placement, respectively, as the halogen filament. My experience would indicate that is more the "rule" vs your X+1 statement. You can even buy dual filament equivalent "hi/lo" HID bulbs that place the arc in the correct position for both high beam and low beam use

No, since the advent of EFI, wide band knock/ping sensors, and monitoring of crank position, the A/F mixture can be slightly enriched if the fuel octane used requires it. Since about 2000 most "high" compression engines (10:1 EFI, 12:1 DFI) REQUIRE premium ONLY for full, best(?) performance. I've been running regular here in Houston in my 2008 ES and now in my 2011 Rx since they were both new. No knocking or any noticeable difference from premium. I've tried premium and have to say I cannot tell any difference in power and it makes no difference in MPG. I've asked at the dealership and been told premium is recommended but the sales guy who told me that said he runs regular in his cars. "..No knocking or any..." Human ears are not sensitive enough, or maybe I should say not "quick enough" to discern engine knock when it occurs in these newer EFI engines. The new wideband knock sensors will detect the onset of knock/ping so quickly, and at such a low level, that the driver will never take notice. Upon detection of even these minor levels of knock/ping the ECU will INSTANTLY "detune" the engine. The A/F mixture will be enriched "just enough" to alleviate, abate, the possibility of detonation.

No, your RX is factory tuned for premium fuel use. But it will automatically "detune"(***) if you use regular. *** Detune: In this case uising EFI PWM increased duty cycle voltage to enrich the mixture for heavy engine loads/loading, mostly for acceleration.

How hard/easy does the starter turn over..for how long. Indications are that your 12 volt supply voltage is dropping to ZIP when you engage the starter. VSC relies on the ABS pumpmotor to supply brake fluid pressure and if the battery is even slightly low(***) you will get that fault. *** Low in voltage may not mean low in state of charge. You might have a shorted battery cell in which case the remaining 5 cells will get charged to ~13 volts when the alternator is being used but will drop significantly otherwise. That lower voltage, 5 cells fully charged, will still start the car but be below the leve needed for the electronics without the engine running. I would start by cleaning and burnishing the battery posts and connections. A poor battery connection will oftentimes cause the voltage from the battery to dip to ZIP the first instant the starter is engaged but then the connection resistance will break down and now the starter will turn over. But in that brief instance the system had ZERO volts.

Your OEM rebuilt probably came from the same rebuild house that the aftermarket parts stores use.

Unless you consider yourself a highly competent DIY'r.... RUN!

And here I was ready to put my money down on a front CV joint.

Stearing shock absorber/stabilizer....

Even if you discover that you have "AWD" please keep in mind that your RX is PRIMARILY a patently UNSAFE FWD when operating with wintertime adverse roadbed conditions. The RX uses 3 simple, fully open, diff'ls, front, center and rear. That results in it being a simple ONE-WHEEL-DRIVE except AFTER wheel/spin/slip occurs in which case TC, Traction Control, activates. Late model RXes have the ability to switch off TC.

Please keep in mind that you have moved the vehicle center of gravity UPWARD and wintertime driving often requires quick turns/maneuvers.

I have a vague memory that the A/C fuse is shared with the cigarette lighter... Fix the lighter...?

You bought a "base" FWD vehicle, so just what did you expect..? FWD, base FWD/AWD, patently UNSAFE in adverse weather/roadbed conditions. Yes, if even the slightest level of "driven" wheel, front by default, wheelspin/slip is detected the rear drive clutch (2010 and after) will be instantly decoupled, the engine will also be INSTANTLY dethrottled, while the "driven", front wheels, are returned to a tractive condition using "moderate", PWM, braking. As a safety matter once front wheelspin/slip is detected it is of the UTMOST importance to return those wheels/tires to a tractive state. Otherwise loss of directional control will be a real threat. Just exactly why ABS become such as important matter back when technology first made it possible, relatively inexpensively possible. But yes, later model year Lexus FWD vehicles have the ability to turn off traction control and VSC.

It is my understanding that as of 2004, the introduction of the RX330, nothing about the transaxle itsself was changed. What was changed was the adoption of DBW in order to prevent the engine from developing torque until a pending or in process gear change could be fully completed, especially a downshift gear change resulting from a quick driver change to acceleration, or more importantly a "re-acceleration" after a brief period of coastdown, throttle closed coastdown period. The "AWD" VC was dropped but that was more due to the fact that Trac activation made it useless, non-functional, anyway

No, both "faults" will clear within a few drive cycles.

Rear brake light bulb failure, even just one, will disable CC. Don't forget the high mount.

I would only put chains on front as that is where 90% of your drive is on the RX300 AWD..... "..90% of your drive.." With the exception of the 99-00 models and the 2010 and after models the RX3X0 series "awd" is a simple "One-Wheel" drive system simple "open" differentials front, center, rear. These models rely, always belatedly, "post" the slip/skid event, on Trac braking to "enforce" engine torque apportionment to non-slipping wheels. Along with the use of braking for this purpose you also get INSTANT engine dethrottling. Many "awd" models that make use of the trac braking technique now have an "off" switch to allow the vehicle to get unstuck.

Op has a 2012 RX350 that uses a completely different "awd" system than prior, <2010, models. The history, mostly other marques, of the new type "awd" is not good, highly prone to PTO failures. My guess is that those failures arise directly from the "locking" of the rear drive clutch in every day situations regardless of roadbed traction conditions. Were I the owner of one of the new(er) "awd" systems I would immediately add a switch, 3-mode switch. Off-Auto-Lock. Off...no rear clutch power. Auto..factory mode, to be used ONLY when the driver has doubts of the level of roadbed traction. Lock...rear drive FULLY engaged, to be used ONLY with driver certainty of SLIPPERY roadbed conditions and below ~20 MPH. As recently experienced, AGAIN, here and abouts, AWD/4WD even with wintertime speacialty tires, just doesn't cut the mustard. We had 12" of snow here last week, but the more important point was/is the layer of ICE beneath that snow.

Within a week after purchasing my new '01 "awd" RX300 I had 4 new 17X8 RH wheels fitted using 1.6" spacers. Wider stance, more tread surface contact area....and....wait for it.... More suspension clearance at the front and much more importantly enough suspension clearance at the rear that a good set of cable chains could be fitted. My RX runs on summer use only tires, BridgeStone Turanzas throughout the year. When things get tuff, as they just did, the rear chains go on first, and then I add the front chains. I have tried driving with just the front tire chains installed but I was, remained, entirely cognizant of the radically different driving dynamic that creates.

Assuming you have no CEL indication the most likely problem is a plugged up, internittently plugged, catalytic converter. Not exactly an uncommon problem.