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About Dave_02RX300

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    California (CA)

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  1. It was definitely NOT the Manifold Gasket... and my last post said Ody (my other car), so the strain has shown... Repairs complete: Replace both side Valve Covers (gaskets) Replace Front Crank Seal and Replace two cam seals Replace lower oil pan gasket Change oil and Filter
  2. The Ody has really been stinkin' for quite a few months. The oil leak is much worse, and it drips onto the exhaust manifold. And it shows oil spots on the driveway now. I'm having the following repaired: Valve Gasket Oil pan Gasket Front main seal about 800$ of stuff. Hopefully this will stop all the leaks. The rear main seal is hopefully OK. I'll know after this crap is complete. Otherwise, it's about another 600$.
  3. Thanks for the replies - I have about 125,000 miles on the car. The issues seems steady state now - now getting worse - I only get the leak+smell when I rev up to 85+mph - California highways ;-). I'll have a mechanic check it out, especially the valve cover gasket. I replaced one of those on a 1991 Camry Wagon (V6) a long time ago.
  4. From 2006: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/33197-failing-exhaust-gasket/#comment-214276 I thought I better post a new thread since the old one is dated 2006, and maybe those lucky folks have new RX's. About 6 months ago (early 2016) with about 120k on my 2002 RX300, I noticed some burning oil smell, intermittently, at 65+MPH. I have finally tracked it down to an oil wet spot on two of the bolts that hold the front exhaust manifold. I'm hoping it's just the gasket, and not a crack in something. -Dave
  5. I have a small oil leak in front at the gasket, intermittent, but when it does drop a drip of oil on the manifold, it's pretty stinky. I'll post more details in a new thread, as this is 2006 and I'm posting now in 2016. Thanks for the great history of these cars. -Dave
  6. Indeed they replaced the coolant (what Dad used to call radiator fluid). They did not replace the trans. fluid. Supposedly they inspected it - I'll ask for a report on that inspection. Something new: When the stereo is played just loud enough, the passenger door handle rattles on the outside of the car. I could use duct tape to fix this, but then we won't be able to use the passenger door ^_^ Has anyone ever resolved an outside door handle rattle, and are there any images that show a good fix? And why would this occur only now - post 90k maintenance, while driving home from the shop? Here's the cross link to the new issue so we don't plug up this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/15762-rattling-behind-door-panel/
  7. I have this problem now too. When the stereo is played just loud enough, the passenger door handle rattles on the outside of the car. I could use duct tape to fix this, but then we won't be able to use the passenger door ^_^ Has anyone ever resolved an outside door handle rattle, and are there any images that show a good fix?
  8. Well, looks like you're right. I wonder why (a) the quote for the WP wasn't lower, since they're already doing the effort for the timing belt. and (b) the dealer said I don't need it. Oh well, when the pump goes, if it goes, I will worry about that the... Here's an interesting video of someone changing the timing belt and WP on an 03: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPwYEgrcHA8 Hopefully if the WP ever does go... I will know that sound to a "t". I heard it on the old Volvo, and also on my old 82 Tercel. I won't ever forget that sound of a water pump "about to go"
  9. OK - I took it into the dealer. I thought about the non-dealer mechanics in my area, but there was no concise opinion on them good vs. bad - half of all yelpers and angieslisters said F-, and the other half would say A+. Can't take the chance they screw it up. So, the dealer said I don't need the water pump - that's why it's not on the maintenance list. In fact, it's not driven by the drive shaft (like the old Volvo), it's on a separate belt. They said, if it starts to leak (unlikely) it will leak onto the ground, slowly, and it has its own Parts + Labor cost, independent of the timing belt work and the 90k maintenance. As for the transmission fluid - they "inspect it" and if it needs replacing they do so, otherwise they don't. The quote was approx. $1250, but I expect it to be more after the "brake inspection" - that may cause it to be much higher if there is brake work besides replacing the brake fluid. I'll let you know when it's done. In the mean time, I am enjoying the free loaner car: the IS350 - a real rocket sled! -Dave
  10. ...proving you can't have too many posts on this subject. I've spent a few hours reading the posts on this and other forums. And listed below is exactly what is printed in the RX300 maintenance manual. Since my RX300 is a 2002, I have included two major replacements from the 120k list because my car is 11 years old. It seems to me, from reading many (most, but not all) of the posts, there are 4 main points of debate: 1) timing belt replacement (yes/no) 2) drain vs. replace trans fluid 3) replace plugs (yes/no) Well, the manual says to do all 3 of those (as shown below) when the car gets to 8 years old (90k, 120k - doesn't matter because my car is old old old and has never had the trans fluid replaced on my watch). 4) WATER PUMP: I could not find the water pump mentioned in ANY location of the maintentance manual for the RX300 (2002 year). Some say do it because why not it adds only a little expense, and they got the timing belt off, and all the rest of the crap, so do it. Others say it will go 150k miles. My opinion - replace it - I lost a waterpump driving a different make/model of car, and I was 125 miles from home, and it shot the propeller through the radiator. No, it was not a Lexus, it was a 1970 Volvo (ok, it's true story and I hope you are laughing). None the less, I will probably replace the water pump because of fear, just FEAR. Well here's the list, plus water pump. I think I am going to a non-dealer mechanic that knows Lexus. -Dave ------------------------------------------ RX300 Maintenance List (including the major replacements for 120k or 8 years) ------------------------------------------ replace A/C Filter replace brake fluid replace engine air filter replace engine coolant replace oil and oil filter replace timing belt re-torque drive shaft flange bolts replace spark plugs (@96 mo) replace differential oil (@96 mo) inspect the following: ball joints and dust covers inspect the car body brake lines and hoses brakes, linings, pads, rotors, etc. drive belts drive shaft boots exhaust and mountings fuel lines, tank, vapor, vent fuel cap gasket rack and pinion steering linkage and boots transmission transfer case and differential oil rotate tires test drive
  11. Thanks everyone - I got it fixed. I bought the full unit online and installed it (motor + antenna). I cannot find links to all the posts I read about this topic. However, they fell into two categores: a) you need to replace the antenna mast B) you need to replace the whole shebang motor and mast. Anyone reading this post should look for the details about a and b above first. The mast-only replacement is much less expensive (about 25$ vs. 175$). But much harder. In a way I was lucky - I had to replace the entire motor and mast. I found the exact replacement at autopartswarehouse.com, and the part was called: Part #: W0133-1740786 2000-2002 Lexus RX300 OES Genuine Antenna Antenna RX300|Base OES Genuine Indeed, it had the exact same numbers and markings as the unit I removed. Including the Made in Mexico ;-) At first it was daunting to try to replace the unit. And I wish I could find the motivating post, but one contributor said you literally have to take the entire trunk apart. Well, that was a bit over the top - but you will have to remove a heck of a lot of those plastic snaps, and remove quite a few panels on the inside, and remove much of the spare tire plastic to get at the thing - you'll know when to stop. Then it's just the outside lock nut (I used a screwdriver and a mallet to rotate it), and two bolts on the inside. Electrical connections were the wire harness which only fits on one way, and the RF connector. There is a long black rubber hose that disappears down a hole, and you just gently pull that out. Question: What is that water hose used for, that shares space with the antenna tail? Just wondering. Thanks everyone for all the details in many many posts, regarding the antenna. And for the "you can do it yourself" motivation gained from reading those posts. BTW - the dealer wanted 600-800$ to replace this. So, you better do it yourself. -Dave
  12. Thanks for the replies. For some reason, the auto-email-me with replies wasn't operating on this post. So I just saw this info now. I took it to the dealer, and for $125 diagnostics plus 55$ for the part, he's fixing it. I felt it was important to replace this most important part on the car with original Lexus parts. And to make sure it was wired to the seat belt sensors. Indeed, I may have been able to unbolt it and try to clean it out - but it seemed more of a bent mechanical plate or pin in there, and not so much as an issue with sticking because of all the coffee that's been dumped on it over the years. [Naturally it was also time for a 4 wheel alignment, and a clean, flush, replace the transmission flud - that's never been done before on this 84k miles car]. I think I will have to visit a non-dealer, local shop, for the broken antenna motor gizmo. The dealer's estimate was over 600$. I'd follow the instructions for the antenna show in other detailed posts, but I'm not that good. Thanks -Dave
  13. On my 2002 RX300: the driver's side seat belt lock/release gizmo is giving me problems. I could not figure out the name of this part, but it's the slot you click the belt's buckle into, and it has the RED release button on it. Ya know, that thing you click the buckle into, on the right side of the seat. The PROBLEM: it doesn't let me click in all the time. It feels like the buckle is blocked by an obstruction. Sometimes, if I press the release button in-and-out a few times, I can get the buckle to click in. And once in (and I'm buckled up) it stays in OK - I can only pull it out when I press the release button. So it seems secure, once it's fastened. But getting it to click in and stay in takes half a minute or so. I have to kind of jimmy it to get it fastened. It's almost like someone lost a quarter in the slot or something is blocking the buckle. I took a look in the slot, and it's clear, and I can see the locking pin moving just fine when I press and release the release button. So, is there a replacement for this? And if so, will I need to rewire the whole car, etc. etc.? Thanks -Dave
  14. Someone should make a video of this for youtube - then I could really see how to do it. Thanks!
  15. Thanks - after owning this car for 6 years, I never noticed if antenna height = f(tuner frequency). You sure? In any case, it doesn't go up all the way - when I get some time, I will review the excellent link-to-post above about fixing/replacing instructions. -Dave