ArmyofOne

My power steering pump is going, that could be what is going on with yours as well. groaning/whining is a classic sign pre-failure.

CRAP LOL. i guess i should update this: THE DATE HAS BEEN BUMPED AGAIN! PLEASE READ!! The meet date i have planned is Saturday April 16th, 2005 THE MEET WILL BE HELD AT JASON'S SHOP, JP IMPORTZ. THE ADDRESS IS: 3521 Security St, Suite 101. Garland Tx, 75042 His shop # is 214.221.3135 if you have any questions. so far we have: 1. ArmyofOne- Josh--ES250 2. Blake918 (LexusOwnersClub)- Blake--LS400 3. JPI- Jason--GS400 4. southernsc- derek--SC300 5. 1QWKLEX- Tom--IS300 6. HoeBag-Chethan* (hope i spelled that right ) 7. UTGS400* 8. bfx2460- Cindy and Bin 9. BigJoeD- Joe--IS300 10. Gato- Giovanni--ES300 11. crazeazn-John--Cadillac Deville 12. Toymachine40K - jon--IS300? 13. shiznit - Allan--IS300 14. JaysonMFK - Jayson--IS300 15. black4- Harold 16. UTA LS 17. bmoon_007- B 18. JamesIS300-James? 19. dbank02 20. ITZIAN 21. DaiCa 22. texisportx-Gary: IS300 SportX 23: rushgator-Glenn: SC300/400 24. monkenstei 25. sOsoLiD_IS 25 people! lets make thisbigger, comeon LOC ers, there are only 2 LOC'ers at this meet, Blake and I. we need more representation in the DFW Chapter!!

could be an ignition coil/cap or rotor( depending on your year you either have electronic ignition-coil, or mechanical-distributor/caps/rotors). the fact that you hit something could be coincedence. when this happens, all cylinders are getting fuel, but only a few are firing, sometimes 6, sometimes 4, it douns like 4 from your description (so half the cylinders). the ones that arent firing are stil getting fuel, and it isnt burning, so it dumps into your exhaust where its burnt in the cats. unfortunately this is not good for the cats. anytime you cat is glowing red, its not usually a fuel delivery problem, but an ignition problem. most of the time i see this the fuel system is working fine.

today i washed my car. nothing unusual, fill up the bucket with Meguairs soap and hot water...and proceed to wash in straight lines like i always do. i then decided i didnt want water spots when i was done, so i dried it with a chamois (shammy). but low and behold...there are swirls where i have dried, streaks if i went in a straight line. they are coudy and hazy, not like paint swirls, but more like they are in the wax. very fine. and if i rub them with wet finger, they go away, but then i have water spots again. so whats the deal here? is NXT that soft? this coat is a 4 days old. how can it be gone?

-- Like I mentioned, I wanted to redline it just because it was a special occasion. Yes, those needles have been replaced before. -- About the head rebuild: yes, I would consider it, if I hadn't heard stories about head rebuilds causing bigger problems with blowby. If you tighten up the top, the bottom gets stressed. Perhaps a compression check could be used to decide whether things would work out? Right now, I'm okay with it as it is. I use a remote starter for plausible deniability. The smoke has cleared by the time I get to the car. And really, it's just a puff of blue once or twice a day. cheers. ← yep thats a haed. there is no problem with rebuilding your head. thats a myth. since you have them off anyways, put on a new (preferably metal-$50) head gasket.

144,455 as of tonite. 1990 ES250. not bad for 15 years old.

Throttle Body and Intake cleaner is safe to use. Leave the engine running when you do it. if you dont you risk having a flooded engine when you go to start it. the reason the throttle body gets dirty is because the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system brings dirty exhaust gasses back into the intake system. the only problem is, it does puts them back in BEFORE the throttle body. so the whole system from the TB back gets gunky.

sonds good. keep us updated.

i paid $17.99 for my HPF at autozone. they now carry alot of parts they never had before.

that sounds like the ingition coil as stated above.

wilfred, you stated that it only does it when its warm...its not pinging then. pinging would be more pronounced at cold startup.

possibly spots for oil leak trouble, ranked in commoness (as i have noticed it) int he order they are typed in:Valve cover gaskets Rear Main Seal. Camshaft and Cranksahft seals (usually replaced when the timing belt is done.) Oil Pump seal. have you changed your pcv valve recently? definately check the oil drain plug and the oil filter. if the filter was installed incorrectly (i.e. making sure the old seal fro the filter came off with the filter rather than staying on the engine block) this could cause the problem. you wont get an accurate reading on the dipstick until the car hasn been shut off for a few minutes. thats why it read full the first time.

amen!!!!

oooooouch...i would get rid of it now. a roof panel repair is expensive. it cant be rpaired wihout cutting the roof panel out/off. the rest si ok, but damn, unless you can do this yourself...it will be hard to do for under what its worth. i will say this, the oil problem, unless it did not do it before the rollover is ongoing.

or better yet: a 1992 ES with 250,000 miles on it and needles that still light up. good stuff!! steviej ← I am quite drunk...but that is still funny. definately good stuff. (it is tsking quite an effort to type this).

Need pix to accurately depcit what body work needs done. if you stop drivingt he car hard now, you may be alright. if the engine doesntburn any oil now thats good. check your brake fluid, you may have leaked some when the car rolled over. (for the BRAKE blight) Fog light shouldnt be too difficult. the right blinker, i would check and replace the bulb. post up some pix, if there is unibody damage dont even bother fixing it. i woudl imagine there is, as the roofs of these cars dont tend to appreciate supporting the entire weight of the vehicle.

aint that the truth. my lex has a 36.1ft turning circle...we have an F150 that turns tighter than that!

EDIT: why are you in second gear in that pic? ← my guess would be so that he could get both needles completely in the picture. :P steviej ← ah, would make sense. :D what a better way to testify to lexus quality than a 250,000-mile-old engine at redline at 72mph? B)

thats probably just a head rebuild. the valve seals arent seating properly until the car warms up. as they get warm they expand. cost about $400 per head to rebuild if you can remove and reinstall yourself. and if you want, rebuild kits can be had for around $150. so for $300 and some wrench time, you can have a like new motor again. i doubt piston rigns are your issue. it would do it with every shift of the tranny or every time you take your foot off the gas...usually. or it would just smoke all the time. EDIT: why are you in second gear in that pic?

you should try Falken Ziex Ze-512, or michelin energy MXV4. I have the energy's on my concorde, and they are quiet, but in half a million miles of driving, the Zeix ZE-512 is the quietest tire i have ever encountered. for the money, i cant beat it, i paid $45 a tire.

how cheap? LOL. it is probably the Tstat again. if not its the WP, but not likely.

yep thats blake's baby. his is kinda like mine...at certian angles she hides her blemishes REALLY well. Blake, is that a 92-94 ES across the street? hiding in the bushes :P Not sure if there is an aftermarket bumper steve. but the best thing to do if there isnt, is try to find a junkyard bumper that you can try it out on. then you still have yoru original if it doesnt work. FWIW, the wiring and reconfiguration fo the blikers is going to be the most expensive part fo this. a custom moutning panel possibly would need to be made. then the fenders and wiring...could get spendy. but wiring is somewhat simple. i can help you with that blake. oh, and who told your sister her accord could be in this photo?!!! :chairshot: thast the only thing ruining otherwise a PERFECT photo of your LS.

If they did it with bondo, yes... but they would probably fill with mostly actual plastic. cut the mounting holes and mounts out of the cover so they are flat. Just 2 square holes in the bumper. get a piece of plastic and melt it in place, level with the surface, then sand smooth, then they would level with leveling compound (bondo LOL) and then prime and paint. at least thats how i always did things like this, its not that hard. any body shop who knows what they are doing can do it fairly cheap, id say $650 after paint. Its just like a big, expensive Monogram model car It would still have the ability to crack though, because there would be bondo at the seams. SW is mostly right, but there are ways (such as the one i described above) to minimize the risk. Melting the plastic to gether si the only way to ensure a strong bond so that cracking wont occur if a rock hits it. cause then the body work has to be re done. Steve, i hope i dont come off as being difficult, simply adding to what you said. you have a valid point, but in this case, i believe it can be reduced to a marginal risk. B) thats if they can heat up the plastic to contour it to the curve of the bumper. then they woudl use a solderig iron look alike to heat and melt the plastic at the edges and melt it together.

check your mounts, spcifically the dogbone mount. run a search to find out where its located, as im not entirely sure, i just know i dont have one becuase my car is a 1990. when they designed the mcv10 in 92 i think they added the dogbone mount.

True, but since I'm feeling punchy 1st gen ES 300 was 92-96 T belt 01 - I just sent you an e-mail. ← and the ES250 debuted in 1990, not 89... sorry SK, i had to do it :D