RX in NC

We all do a mix of highway vs. city driving, some moreso than others. The common tendency is that AWD owners bear a greater risk of transmission problems than FWD owners do. My wife does quite a bit of highway driving, and her transmission failed at just over 48,000 miles.

Glad you found this forum helpful - there are a number of folks here who know what they're talking about. Go get it fixed under warranty. Replacing a rear main seal and having to pay for it out of your own pocket will set you back about $1,100 at the typical Lexus service department. I'm sure you'll greatly enjoy not having to spend that money to fix your problem....

I swore off cell phones and pagers in 1997. I grew tired of lousy coverage and support as well as the hassle of having to carry around still more devices in order to stay "connected". I thought about it for a few days, remembered that I had been both personally and professionally successful in the days before cell phones proliferated the planet, and decided I could become that way again. I turned in my hardware, cancelled the services, and never looked back. Folks can call me at my home office, and if I'm not in, they can leave a message and I'll get back to them. Some things never change - thank goodness. And I'm a lot happier as a result. I don't miss my cell phone one iota. And a hell of a lot more of my time actually belongs to me now....

Instead of fixating on rims and DVD players, if you purchase an $8,000 Lexus you're going to need to put your "customization money" aside for maintenance and repairs. These vehicles can be quite costly to maintain, particularly if you can't perform the work yourself.

Fluid changes are considered a maintenance item and would typically not be covered under a standard warranty. You can ask your Lexus dealership about changing your transmission fluid at no cost to you due to its color - perhaps they would prefer changing your fluid to replacing your transmission down the road. I doubt if they'll change your fluid for free at this point, though. But it doesn't hurt to ask.

mikey00 is correct - if your battery is original, it should be the first component you check out. Failing batteries can cause some very strange behavior throughout your electrical system before they finally die.

monarch's statements are opinion, not fact. However, I believe that changing the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles (or even every 30,000 miles) will help to minimize problems for most RX AWD owners. But having to do so is simply inexcusable given today's transmission technology. Lexus should acknowledge and correct this as a service to all owners who have been affected by premature transmission failure. We pay far too much for these vehicles to be stuck with lousy transmission design and performance. Bear in mind that I've recently heard of at least one catastrophic transmission failure in a properly-maintained and driven RX300 AWD at just under 12,000 original miles. The driver was a middle-aged female and the vehicle was always serviced on schedule by the selling dealership. I don't know the model year nor were the full details shared with me, but if I can confirm this story I'll post it here. If this turns out to be accurate, it instantly invalidates monarch's statement.

Be aware that transmission "flushes" involve more risk than doing a simple drain-and-fill. When you flush, there is always a possibility that the process will dredge up safely-settled debris that can lodge in the nether regions of your transmission or torque converter and create an entirely new set of problems for you. Also, most of these shops don't use the actual Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid that Lexus recommends as the only fluid that should ever go into your transmission pan. Most flush shops start with a universal, all-purpose fluid and then add additional contents and chemicals to it until the fluid supposedly matches the chemical composition of whatever your factory fill was. I find this hard to believe because these tranny flush technicians are not chemists and are not working in sterile laboratory conditions. I doubt very seriously if any fluid they mix up for your vehicle is going to be the identical twin of Type T-IV transmission fluid. I'll continue with my routine drain-and-fill process every 30,000 miles for as long as we own this vehicle. While the flush-and-fill concept sure sounds like the best way to clean your transmission system as well as to get 99% of the old fluid out of there, I've spent considerable time researching the process and I believe that the risks are greater than the rewards. Good luck to all of you who decide that the flush-and-fill concept is the way to go, but I recommend that you research it very carefully before you decide to pull the trigger for it.

As I pointed out previously in this thread, the best reason NOT to install aftermarket filters and coolers is because you'll void your warranty with Lexus. After your warranty runs its course, aftermarket hardware could become a consideration. I'm not going to do it, however, because if the transmission in my wife's vehicle fails again, I'll require Lexus to replace it again. I'm batting 1.000 in requiring Lexus to repair these known failures in our RX300 and I expect that to continue.

SK Performance, I'm guessing that if you decide to install an aftermarket transmission filter or cooler while your vehicle is still under the normal Lexus warranty, Lexus could then use that decision against you to claim that you have voided your warranty by compromising their transmission system design. Lexus could then have a legal reason to refuse to repair/replace your transmission if you still experience transmission failure down the road. What's your experience in this situation? Did you approach Lexus for assistance before or after you installed your aftermarket transmission filter? What was their response? My point here is that you never want to jeopardize your vehicle's warranty. Installing an aftermarket transmission filter or cooler probably gives Lexus the opportunity to tell you "sorry, but you created your own problem and we're not responsible for it".

Take it from those of us who've experienced transmission failure within our own RX300 AWD models - at a minimum you should be changing your Toyota Type T-IV fluid every 30,000 miles. This is probably your best bet towards delaying transmission failure down the road although there are never any guarantees. It is unfortunate (and inexcusable) that the RX300 AWD transmission design forces owners to have to play defense with what should be a much better-engineered vehicle due to the price tag it carries, but that's just the reality of the situation. I strongly wish that I had discovered this website prior to acquiring my wife's vehicle rather than about a month afterwards. Had I done so, we never would have purchased an RX, period. Change your fluid, don't stress your transmission anymore than your normal driving has to, and become aware of what "normal operation" is for your particular vehicle in various temperature ranges. Pay attention to any degredation in transmission behavior and deal with any problems as soon as you become aware of them. Being a careful and cautious driver with extremely limited jackrabbit starts and stops should help considerably. That's true of basically any vehicle, and much more so with the RX series. Best of luck to all of you RX owners out there.

Unfortunately, 18 mpg is about right. My wife sometimes manages 19 to 20 in hers, but she is cautious and conservative. You may be wasting your money if you change your original iridium plugs now (they are expensive, about $10 each at NAPA or Pep Boys). They're usually good for about 120,000 miles. You may want to pull them and clean them before spending the money to replace them. And be aware that those three plugs in the rear are almost impossible to get to unless you know what you're doing. Watch out for your transmission. That's the biggest weakness in the AWD RX models. You seem to have already deduced that by reading this forum. Good luck to you.

Since you're still troubled by the significant expense of the Michelins, I recommend you check out the Yokohama Geolander HT-S G051 at tirerack.com. You'll spend significantly less money and that choice is a better bang-for-your buck as well. The G051 is rated higher than both the Cross Terrain and the LTX M/S. I think the G051 is the best overall tire deal in the small-to-medium SUV category at the current time. Nothing wrong with Michelin if you want to spend top dollar - but like many of us, it sounds as if you prefer not to....

I have to admit that given all the known RX problems, handling in the snow is not one of them (as long as the driver has sufficient snow-driving experience). Our 2000 RX300 AWD does just fine as long as the snow depth is no more than 5 or 6 inches. Ice is a different story altogether. You must have chains installed to have a chance to successfully deal with ice. I'd say that your problems have more to do with your tires than with your vehicle's snow capability. If your vehicle came equipped with the OEM Bridgestone Duelers, you unfortunately have a soft-riding, narrow-siped, lousy-handling set of rubber. I was glad to get rid of my wife's Bridgestones back in December when they reached 42,000 miles. I knew they couldn't get through another winter driving season without putting her in jeopardy. When it's time for new tires, I recommend the Yokohama Geolander HT-S G051 as an excellent all-around choice. It's priced far better than either the Michelin Cross Terrain or LTX M/S, and is actually rated higher in rain and snow conditions than either of those. It probably won't deliver quite the mileage longevity of the LTX M/S, though. But I think the Yokohamas are the best tire deal on the market right now for small-to-medium SUVs. Check them out at www.tirerack.com.

Our 2000 RX300 AWD has been meticulously maintained (including an initial transmission fluid change by Lexus at about 29,000 miles) but the transmission failed at about 48,000 miles. My wife is a careful and cautious driver, so driver habits are not the culprit here. The transmission has a design flaw or engineering weakness that may be related to insufficient transmission fluid cooling in the AWD models. Although the owners manual says to never change your fluid for the life of the vehicle unless you operate under severe conditions (tow a boat, drive primarily on dusty roads, etc.), you're asking for serious trouble if you don't change your Toyota Type T-IV fluid at least every 30,000 miles. Best advice? Stay away from AWD and stick with front-wheel drive models.

If you've gleaned this site as thoroughly as you say you have, then you already know the bulk of the major issues: 1. AWD increases your chances for transmission failure. 2. The various oxygen sensors typically begin failing before 70,000 miles. You'll be able to clean some of them but will also have to replace some of them. 3. Check the exhaust manifold carefully. The original ones tend to crack. 4. The rear oil seal is prone to developing leaks around 70,000 miles. 5. The strut mount rubber bushings are improperly shaped, resulting in a Technical Service Bulletin and they should be replaced with the improved design. If you can convince Lexus to cover the various known issues above as I did (both before and after warranty expiration), you'll save yourself many thousands of dollars in repair costs. If you cannot perform routine maintenance yourself, caring for this vehicle over its life will be relatively expensive. If your primary goal is to keep your ongoing maintenance costs under control, you'll be better off with a Toyota 4Runner assuming you pick one that has been properly cared for. Insist on having the maintenance history, and try to limit the mileage more towards the 40K side rather than the 60K side. My wife is approaching 81,000 miles on her 2000 RX300 AWD now. All things being equal, we'll keep it until 125,000 to 130,000 miles and then get rid of it since at that point it makes financial sense to take the depreciation hit. We won't be purchasing another RX.

A primary vehicle is too large an expense (don't fool yourself, it's NOT an investment) to decide on a whim that you don't care for it anymore after just a couple of hours behind the wheel. This is one reason why you should do your research first before ever stepping into a showroom or onto an auction lot. Know what you want, what options you prefer, and what you're willing to pay before you even think about spending your hard-earned dollars. And be disciplined enough to stick to the plan. That way, there are no surprises and you wind up with a vehicle that you both can live with for at least a few years. Sit down and have a head-to-head discussion with the wife about any future car-buying plans. Do your homework and ensure that you wind up with what you need. Your checkbook and your depreciation schedule will both rest much easier if you consistently follow this plan anytime either one of you gets a notion for some new wheels. Good luck to you - you possess far more patience and restraint than I do. I probably would have left her on the curb a long time ago....

I'm much too big (6'7", 245 lbs.) for my wife's RX. Neither headroom nor legroom is even close to being sufficient for me. I also find it significantly underpowered, but part of that may be due to my primary vehicle (5.9-litre V8 Dodge Ram that will literally fly). In our neck of the woods the RX is definitely a gal's vehicle. More than 90% of them are being driven by women.

I've had vehicles in the past that just wouldn't stay running beyond initial start-up in cold weather. It acted like a fuel system problem (as many suspected in the previous posts above), but lo and behold the battery tested out to be on its last legs. But I'll take a battery replacement over a more serious (and expensive) issue any day....

Low-or-no comprehensive deductibles are very affordable and worth it for one primary reason - replacing windshield glass. I've kept a zero-deductible comprehensive coverage level for at least two decades at a cost of perhaps $25 a year. During that time I've replaced more windshields on more vehicles than I can remember. A windshield is one component that you always want the best quality your insurance company will provide, and a low-or-no comprehensive deductible is the ultimate method to ensure that you always get top-quality glass when you need it. Like everything else in the insurance business, the cleaner your record and the longer your good history with your insurer, the less it will cost you to lower or eliminate your comprehensive deductible. If you haven't looked into this particular aspect of your coverage, you should do immediately. All it takes is a couple of busted windshields to realize the value of this philosophy. Back in the mid-80s we had two windshields in two different vehicles broken on two successive days by passing semis throwing rocks. That's when the value of having no-deductible comprehensive coverage really hit home for me.

The RX300 timing belt is well-engineered and thicker than the average timing belt. Although the recommended change interval is 90,000 miles, 99% of the original belts are good for 120,000 miles and beyond. Unfortunately there's no way to check your belt's condition without physically getting to it and looking at it. The term "non-interfering" basically means that you shouldn't suffer engine or valve damage if your timing belt breaks during operation, so you can continue to run the original belt without risking further damage and expense. Good luck.

Clean, burnish, and re-tighten all of your battery cables again. Have you recently purchased gasoline from a station that you don't usually visit? Did you run your fuel tank within an eyelash of empty before refueling? Have you been working with any cleaning chemicals under your hood? Once you've ruled out the above possibilities, your trouble codes are probably going to point to a failing sensor. Many of us have dealt with mass air flow sensors, air/fuel ratio sensors, the various oxygen sensors, etc., so we're familiar with quite a few of the codes. Get them read, post them here, and several folks will have some suggestions for you to try before you decide to spend big bucks that you may not need to.

From a maintenance and resale perspective, the best exterior color is always white. White fades the least, matches best when repainting is required, is the easiest to clean and wax, and has been the most preferred color by the general public for almost every brand of vehicle (except Ferrari) for decades. If you choose a white exterior (especially for a vehicle that you plan to keep for a long time), you won't regret your decision.

When changing headlight bulbs, just be aware that some of the replacement bulbs available on the market may last only a year or even less before they degrade or burn out. The Sylvania Silverstar fits into that category. In fact, if you contact Sylvania about the Silverstars, they will essentially acknowledge that the bulbs are designed to go about a year under most applications, even when properly installed without getting any skin oils or other foreign debris on the bulb during the installation process. So if bulb life is important to you (and I think it should be at the prices required), research your replacement bulbs very carefully....

Realtors are worth what they're paid only when they are honest, ethical, and have the best interests of their clients at heart. I've dealt with a handful of realtors in our area who are none of the above, and actually took two of them to "realtor court" about a decade ago due to their dishonesty concerning a disclosure issue involving a home we purchased (yes, I won the case - both realtors were put on two-year probations and will always carry that incident on their permanent records). So like anything else, it's buyer/seller beware. Get references, research your short list of potential realtors, and be careful out there....