RX in NC

Yep, my experience in owning over 20 vehicles during 35 years of driving is that it is always a good idea to keep your tires rotated. With today's better tire technology, a rotation schedule of 5,000 to 7,500 miles works for most average drivers. If you accelerate and brake heavily, a more frequent rotation schedule will keep your tire wear spread more evenly among all four corners but it will NOT lengthen your tread life. Only driving smarter and checking your tire pressures weekly can help you do that.

Congrats, and glad to learn that your wife is secure once again in what she's driving now. Although I've forced Lexus to perform and swallow over $9,000 worth of repairs to my wife's RX since September 2003 to keep it roadworthy for her, she strongly relates to what your wife went through. When I reach the financial formula of being willing to accept the depreciation and unload her vehicle (at 125,000 to 130,000 miles), she'll gladly be willing to dump her RX and move on. Good luck with the new SUV, whatever it is.

brandondiem, Your popping and clicking may be caused by the breaking down of the rubber bushings in your front strut mounts. This is a common problem in the RX series which Lexus has addressed through a Technical Service Bulletin. They essentially replace your original poorly-designed rubber bushings with new ones that are shaped to fit more snugly and hold up much longer. A number of owners (myself included) have had this TSB fix performed on our vehicles at no charge by our Lexus service departments. Search this forum using "strut mount rubber bushing failure" or "TSB SU002-99" as key phrases and you should come up with multiple threads covering this topic. The pops and creaks eminating from your suspension become more noticeable during cold weather but can be annoying during any season. Replacing the rubber bushings in the front strut mounts through TSB SU002-99 absolutely fixes this problem and gets the vehicle quiet again.

Yep, the condition of your rubber boots is critical to your chances for long-term life out of your CV joints. Once the rubber boots crack, the grease they contain escapes and it doesn't take long to ruin your joints at that point. So check the condition of those boots frequently, and replace them when they begin to show surface cracking. New boots are a hell of a lot less expensive than new CV joints and axles....

Your owners manual will tell you that your factory-fill transmission fluid should be good for the life of the vehicle as long as you operate it under "normal" driving conditions. Find these exact words in your manual, show them to your dealer, and insist upon obtaining fresh transmission fluid at no cost to you. Your vehicle is still under warranty and if your transmission is truly misbehaving, your dealer should repair this problem without charging you for it (as long as the vehicle has never been used for towing or been operated under other "abnormal" conditions - see your owners manual for a complete description). If your vehicle came with a trailer hitch installed, all bets are off and you'll have to pony up for the fresh fluid cost. That said, you need to understand that the weakest link in the RX series (particularly the AWD models) is the transmission. Read enough of the threads on this forum and you'll see that fairly quickly. Once you obtain your first fresh fluid change you should change your fluid at least every 30,000 miles from that point forward. No excuses - just do it. It's an easy job that you can learn to do yourself. There are several threads on this very forum that describe how to do so. Be sure that you use nothing except Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid (which you can purchase at most Toyota dealership parts departments for less than at your Lexus parts department). Good luck to you and keep us posted on how your situation turns out.

Yep, use your dipstick as your guide. But don't just check it once - check it over the next several days in all types of conditions (transmission cold, transmission hot, etc.). Take the time to ensure that you get your fluid level right where it should be. I check the fluid in my wife's RX300 every weekend at the same time I check the oil level and tire pressures. There's no excuse not to check it. Changing the fluid in these vehicles is so easy. With a 10mm hex wrench and a small funnel for refilling fresh Type T-IV fluid through your dipstick tube, anyone can do it and save themselves significant money.

To emphasize what SW03ES stated above, I remind you that my wife's meticulously-maintained 2000 RX300 AWD has required over $9,000 worth of repairs performed by our local Lexus service department since September 2003. Some of this work was while the vehicle was under the basic warranty but quite a bit of it has been post-warranty work as well. Fortunately for us, my "refuse-to-lose" approach in dealing with our local General Manager has ensured that we haven't had to pay a penny for any of the necessary repairs. We're grateful for the local red carpet treatment we've gotten as failures have surfaced, but that still doesn't change the fact that this will be our first and last RX.

jnosm, Good question and a very debated subject here on this forum. Search this RX300 forum using "transmission problems" as your subject and you'll uncover some very unsettling information on this topic. I found this website in September 2003 specifically because my wife and I grew tired of the unacceptable transmission performance she began experiencing on an intermittent basis, particularly as the weather cooled that autumn. She literally became afraid to drive her vehicle. I battled my local Lexus dealership using quite a bit of the information I found here and by mid-November 2003, my wife had a new transmission installed under warranty by our local dealership. It took me about a month to beat their service management into submission, but I never let up and I made sure they knew that I wasn't going to walk away from this problem. For problems like this, it helps immensely to have a "no-quit" mentality. I was born with one. The consensus is that the RX300 all-wheel-drive models are sensitive to transmission failures, much more so than the two-wheel drive models. A number of us have suffered failures, usually under warranty, and have had to replace our transmissions with Lexus picking up the tab (my wife's RX transmission failed at about 48,000 miles - her replacement transmission is now sitting at about 85,000 miles on the odometer). Be aware that if this cost has to come out of YOUR pocket, you're looking at a $5,000 to $6,000 job depending upon your negotiation skills. Lexus has done a lousy job handling (some would say hiding) this issue when the owners manual indeed says that your factory-filled transmission fluid is good for the life of your vehicle as long as you drive under "normal operating conditions" which means no towing, minimum dirt road driving, minimum stop-and-go trips under five miles, etc. I did a ton of research and decided to do a transmission drain-and-fill myself every 30,000 miles on the replacement transmission for as long as we own this vehicle, regardless of how clean the fluid looks and smells. I also check the fluid EVERY WEEK at the same time I check the oil level and tire pressure. Changing your transmission fluid in this vehicle is extremely simple to do, and some of the forum threads that you'll pull up while researching this topic will tell you exactly how to do it. Some folks on this forum will tell you, like your Lexus dealership did, that unless you change your fluid every 15,000 miles you're asking for eventual failure. Either way, you must change that fluid at least every 30,000 miles to be safe. And always ensure that NOTHING except Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid ever goes into your pan's filler tube. Check out the threads dedicated to this subject and make the right decision for you and your wife. Keep in mind that statistics seem to show that if your vehicle is two-wheel-drive, your chances for transmission failure are somewhat less. Best of luck and let us know what you decide to do.

dxt45, First of all, never think of any primary-purpose, driven-every-day vehicle as an "investment". It is in reality an "expense", and could become increasingly so as it ages and wears. Properly-selected investments appreciate. Your vehicle will only depreciate. Keep that in mind as you shop for cars from this point forward. That said, some vehicles hold up better over time than others assuming they are properly utilized and cared for. And therein lies the key - if you can find a vehicle that has complete service documentation and was obviously well-cared for, you stand a better chance of gaining a long service life from that vehicle as long as you educate yourself on its specific care requirements and follow them. You'll save a tremendous amount of money if you can learn to do the routine maintenance yourself. With $50 to $100 worth of tools and a friend who possesses some basic car care knowledge, you can. But the routine maintenance MUST be performed, on schedule, in order to obtain the long life from the vehicle that you're looking for. Much of this routine maintenance is quite simple to do. No vehicle is 100% bulletproof, even when it receives proper care. Components wear out and expenses can mount if you're having to pay a dealership (particularly a Lexus dealership) to do that work for you. You're looking to buy a 10-year-old (or older) car and although you may find a nice one, you must expect some maintenance and upkeep expenses right out of the gate. So set aside a portion of your funds as your designated maintenance reserves and be prepared to dip into them. I agree that you'll have a greater chance of finding a "gently-used" ES than you will an SC, and an ES will benefit you greatly compared to an SC from an overall cost-of-ownership perspective (insurance, fuel, parts, maintenance, taxes, etc.). But you must enter into this situation with the understanding that for the most part, repairs and parts are going to cost you more with a Lexus than they do with your Saturn. What you hope for is that the repair frequency will be much less than you're accustomed to. But only your ability to find a well-maintained car, keep it so, and a little luck thrown in can determine that over the long run. My best advice to you is to treat this like a business decision. No emotion, no "new car fever", no rash decisions. Take your time and find the right vehicle before you lay down your hard-earned cash to acquire it. And finally, spend some time on this site in the ES and SC forums to learn about the common quirks and problems that owners typically experience for each of these models. Scroll through and read the threads looking for common failures. All models have some, and if they seem to be relatively minor, you'll gain confidence that you're headed in the right direction. Good luck to you.

Regardless of Consumer Reports ratings, there will always be lemons with every make and model. The common RX300 AWD transmission problems certainly point towards the lemon grove in certain situations.

I believe the dealer is attempting to stick you with a repair that should be covered under warranty. I've owned at least 20 vehicles of various makes and models over the past three decades and I've never had a door handle come loose on any of them. Door handles are engineered for constant usage and should hold up over the life of the vehicle. Stick to your guns and insist to your dealer that you paid significant money to cover problems such as this one.

Many folks sing the praises of the Michelin LTX M/S which has been around for at least a decade. Most owners get long life and a decent ride with proper care (which means checking your tire pressure EVERY WEEK and rotating every 5,000 to 7,500 miles). Although pricey, the LTX M/S is less expensive than the CrossTerrains. Michelin has done a good job hyping the much-overpriced CrossTerrains to all the soccer moms out there in SUVLand. Like many, I hated the Bridgestone Duelers that came standard on my wife's 2000 RX300 AWD. She experienced short tread life (42,000 miles), lousy wet traction, poor snow traction, all the standard complaints that most Dueler owners will tell you. When I researched replacement tires between Thanksgiving and Christmas 2004 (and I over-research everything that has to do with spending significant money on our vehicles), I boiled it down to three choices: the Yokohama Geolander HT-S G051 (originally my first choice), the aforementioned LTX M/S, and my most unlikely choice of all, the Firestone Destination LE. I never thought I would buy a "stone" (Bridgestone/Firestone) tire again, especially Firestone with their borderline criminal behavior involving the Explorer rollovers about five years ago. But the more research I did, the more praise I uncovered for the Destination LE tire. It's built with top-notch technology, it carries a 60,000 mile warranty, and at the time it sold for a mere $70 (plus shipping) through tirerack.com. It's wet weather handling, longevity, and ride comfort were all rated in the top three out of approximately 70 tire choices for the SUV category. It was rated higher than both the LTX M/S and the CrossTerrain, and was priced almost 50% below the CrossTerrain. So I gradually came to terms with my Firestone mental block and decided to order a set in mid-December. Tires, shipping, balancing, valve stems, mounting, and a fresh alignment combined came to just under $400. The Michelins would have been at least $150 to $200 more. I rotated the Destinations for the first time last Saturday at just over 5,000 miles. They're still in perfect condition with the original 12/32 tread depth intact. The ride is comfortable, the wet weather handling is phenomenal, and the snow traction is solid. I'm glad I decided to give Firestone a chance with these tires. They learned some very expensive lessons from their Explorer experiences, and this tire apparently is one of the results of those lessons. If you're looking for a highly-rated all-around tire for the money, I think it's going to be hard to beat these Destinations. My only unanswered question now is whether they can really do 60,000 miles and more. If they can, I'll probably stick with this tire on this vehicle for as long as we own it. Good luck to you, hope this has helped, and let us know what you decide to go with.

California has some of the most proactive lemon laws in the country from the consumer's standpoint. If your vehicle was properly maintained during the 20,500 miles prior to your ownership, the situation is probably very favorable for you. There are two key components in any lemon law case. The first component is having complete documentation of your problems. If you possess all of the paperwork involving 18 warranty repairs in less than 10,000 miles, you're certainly off to a good start. The second component involves the dealer needing multiple attempts to fix the same problem. In some states the line is drawn at four attempts - in California it may be less than four. Do some thorough research of your lemon laws and build your case accordingly. 18 warranty repairs and 25 days with the vehicle out of service is certainly a strong case here in North Carolina, and I'll bet that it's an even better case there in California. The most important aspect of any lemon law attempt from the consumer's point of view is that you must approach it with a professional, no-quit, killer instinct. The manufacturer will not make it easy and may attempt to intimidate you initially. Your best weapon is your documentation and chronology spelled out from day one, along with the attitude that you're not going to be intimidated by corporate managers and their attorneys. Do your homework, contact the Consumer Affairs Department of your Attorney General's Office, and hunker down for a battle. With a strong case and solid preparation, that expected battle may turn into nothing more than a skirmish. Good luck and keep us posted.

I've had success in previous Japanese vehicles with both NGK and Nippondenso. As long as you stay with the correct iridium-tipped application, you should be fine with either manufacturer. Be aware that you should be able to get 120,000 miles from your original iridium-tipped spark plugs as long as you are properly maintaining your vehicle and your ignition system remains in good shape. Also be aware that in the RX300, the front three plugs are easy to get to but the rear three plugs require you to be a contortionist with special tools....

Glad to see that you finally received the front strut mount rubber bushing replacement under the Lexus goodwill policy, but yes, you should have also received the front-end alignment as part of the deal. We went through this a couple of months ago at about 72,000 miles and the entire TSB including the necessary alignment was covered through goodwill. Our vehicle's suspension hasn't uttered a squeak since, regardless of how cold the external temperatures have fallen, so there's no question that applying this TSB is the only way to go to finally get these things to shut up. Just be sure to press for your alignment as part of the package - don't pay for something when you obviously don't have to.

Most independent automotive analysts will tell you that purchasing an extended warranty is usually a waste of money. That said, there's no doubt that the RX series suffers from more than its share of serious and costly problems including transmission failure, rear oil seal failure, cracked exhaust manifolds, and prematurely-failing oxygen sensors. My preference has always been to refrain from purchasing an extended warranty and instead to tackle the problems head-on, fully researched and informed, with the service manager. My wife's 2000 RX300 AWD has suffered from all of the aforementioned problems, some within the warranty and some beyond the warranty, and I have a 1.000 batting average with my local Lexus dealership in getting these problems repaired with absolutely no cost to me other than my wife having to drive the vehicle to the dealership and pick up her loaner car for the duration of the repair. If you are meticulous about providing the necessary routine maintenance, researching your vehicle's problems as soon as they occur, and demanding the long-term quality that you expect from Lexus, then save yourself the purchase price of an extended warranty and enjoy the process. You'll save a hell of a lot of money in the long run.

Ask politely and professionally for the repair under the Lexus warranty. Some dealerships will apply what is known as a "goodwill warranty" to customers who experience certain early failures. I've received such gestures (including the replacement of our failed air/fuel ratio sensor at about the same mileage you currently have) from our local dealership on multiple occasions since mid-2004, and I attribute that to doing the research, determining that our specific problem is common and probably premature, and staying professional but firm in my approach with the service manager. Be aware that many of us have experienced multiple sensor failures between 50,000 and 80,000 miles. This does seem to be a common problem in the RX series. Some exhaust system components are covered in certain states to 8 years or 80,000 miles regardless of manufacturer, so do your research and go ask for what you want. Start by checking what your owners manual has to say about warranty coverage for your exhaust system. Look for specific components listed such as the various sensors involved. Good luck in your efforts.

I've noticed over the past few years that North Carolina has several automotive conversion shops that specialize in adapting vehicles (usually vans) for use by physically-challenged drivers and passengers. I've seen their ads in the automotive section of our local newspaper. Check your local Yellow Pages for "conversion autos" or "conversion vans", and also perform a similar search on the net. And finally, you should contact the Consumer Affairs Division of the Attorney General's Office in your state capitol - they may be able to provide you with specific companies as well as the customer satisfaction data pertaining to these companies. Good luck with your efforts, and by the way, what a great screen name you've chosen under your circumstances....

You probably haven't destroyed your transmission, especially since you already have 120,000 miles on the vehicle. Now that you know the proper procedure to use when checking your fluid level, check it weekly just as you should be checking your oil and tire pressures weekly. The fact that you have 120,000 miles on your original transmission with no apparent problems other than a low fluid level certainly works in your favor. Also, be aware that the all-wheel-drive version of the RX seems to suffer more transmission problems than does the two-wheel-drive version. Best of luck to you.

Depreciation is always the primary hurdle, particularly when you're in the habit of purchasing your vehicles new. I never let emotion enter the picture and I handle our vehicle transactions purely on economics and tax consequences. To maximize my results along these lines, I always buy (pay cash in full for) a two-year-old vehicle with extremely low miles that had only one owner/lessee who took meticulous care of the vehicle and as a result all service records are intact and accurate. I continue to take meticulous care of the vehicle and we drive it until the odometer reaches 120,000 to 130,000 miles whether that takes four years or ten years depending on who the primary driver is and the purpose of the vehicle. At that time I sell the vehicle myself, using the meticulous condition and all service records as the primary reason for someone to purchase my 120,000+ mile vehicle from me. I then start the process over again with another two-year-old vehicle that has low mileage and has been meticulously cared for. I've followed this plan for a decade now with all of our vehicles, and there's no question that from a purely economic standpoint it's the only way to go. But it requires a measure of discipline that those who catch "new car fever" typically can't muster. Good luck with your decision.

Yes, that's a common complaint on many different makes of vehicles and the primary reason why it pays to carefully inspect the condition of your brake pads every time your rotate your tires. I've owned vehicles that had brake pads designed to chirp or squeal before they were completely shot, but the chirping or squealing never occured. Learned my lesson the hard way many years ago to check those pads frequently once they reach 40,000 to 50,000 miles depending upon vehicle and driving style.

That's great information to share, mikey00. I'll make certain that the front pad wear indicators are removed from the old pads and installed on the new ones. Lexus should solve this dilemma by ensuring that all replacement front pads come with wear indicators just like the rear pads apparently do. Thanks again.

My wife's 2000 RX300 AWD is approaching 82,000 miles on the original brake pads (she obviously does a lot of highway driving). I always check the condition of the brake pads every time I rotate the tires, and thus far there's been sufficient pad surface upon each inspection. Some brake pads are designed to make audible "chirping" noises as they reach the end of their service life, which is a great design since it warns you to replace your pads before you inadvertently allow them to go metal-to-metal on the rotors. Can anyone confirm that the original Lexus brake pads on this vehicle will indeed begin "chirping" before they are spent? I don't want to install new brakes prematurely, but I don't want to run the risk of going metal-to-metal without warning, either. Thanks in advance for your input.

Power and acceleration are critical requirements in highway driving situations that we all encounter every day. Accelerating from an on-ramp, passing a semi, and merging into ongoing traffic are all accomplished more safely when there is horsepower to spare under the hood. The other side of this coin is that the driver must be experienced and intelligent as far as knowing when to use that horsepower is concerned. I never race anyone on the highways, but when I ask my Ram's 5.9 litre V8 to get going so I can merge or pass safely, it always does so, smoothly, quickly, and without fail. Sadly, that's not the case with my wife's RX300. It takes more planning and more time to accomplish a merge or a pass. As a result, in those situations it's far more preferable (and probably much safer) to be in my Ram as opposed to her RX300. Horsepower always has and always will kill idiot drivers (and unfortunately their passengers and victims as well), but horsepower in the hands of an accomplished and intelligent driver can actually save lives and improve the merging and passing process. Perhaps a lengthy, clean driving record should be a requirement for owning any vehicle rated over 300 hp (or even 250 hp). Such a law would definitely cut down on the number of stupid morons who kill themselves and others every day through their foolish behavior on our streets and highways.

I will not be at all surprised if the base vehicle stickers for nearly $55,000. No way would I even consider paying close to that sum for a vehicle that in my opinion will still be too small and underpowered for its class. It will be very interesting to see what the true mileage figures turn out to be. For those of you who decide to bite this bullet, I hope you'll get what you expect. But you're dreaming if you expect 32 to 35 mpg as some have discussed.