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Posted

My seat belt will no longer retract. I managed to pull off the body panel hiding the unit and took a look. Sprayed some WD40 in there but didn't do any good. Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace the retractor? Does that mean I have to replace the whole belt, too? What's a reasonable cost to replace this at the dealer (if I have to go that route)? And if there's a place I can buy the part, where do you recommend? Thanks for any help you can give me. I've saved quite a lot of money doing a lot of replacement by myself. Mostly cosmetic or door lock panel. Easy to take this car apart!


Posted

www.newlexusparts.com

check online or call em, i recommend online because its cheaper then when you talk to the salesperson for some reason

Posted

I had the same problem in my 90. I bought the whole belt assembly from the dealer for under $200. Its easy to install. Took about 45 minutes to an hour. You might check some salvage yards, but having a new clean belt is nice too. Hope this helps.

Bryan

Posted

Less than $200 at dealer prices and an hour to replace--that sounds manageable. Thanks for the info. I'm glad to hear that THIS repair I can afford!!!

Posted

I got mine for ~$190 from a local dealer, Lexus Kearny Mesa, here in San Diego and a friend installed it for $35.

Posted

Just got a quote from my Lexus dealer $290. Unbelieveable! The lowest quote I got was $200 from AmericanLexusParts.com. But your deal sounds better. I'll check that out. In the meantime, I've managed to jam the belt somehow so I can still wear it for the time being.

Posted
Just got a quote from my Lexus dealer $290. Unbelieveable! The lowest quote I got was $200 from AmericanLexusParts.com. But your deal sounds better. I'll check that out. In the meantime, I've managed to jam the belt somehow so I can still wear it for the time being.

I found that if I jerked the seatbelt right as I was turning the car off it would retract...slowly.

Posted

Okay! I'll try doing that and seeing if it'll retract a bit. That'd be a lot better. Hard to go into reverse without a little play in the belt. ;)

Posted

I found this great deal at www.parts.com and clicked on oemwholesale.com. They are selling my part for $176.70 and will use my shipping account. Best deal yet!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 95 LS400 and the seat belt is getting worse and worse. Sounds like there is no fix for this but replacement. Both the driver and passenger's side are slowly going out at the same time. So WD-40 won't cut it, huh??

Posted

Yes, going to have to replace. It's not hard. Just pry up the running board cover by the seat, then it'll let you access the cover over the seatbelt area. I ordered my replacement for less than $200 from www.parts.com from oemwholesale. I haven't received it yet, but can't wait because I feel like I'm not safe without my retractor working. Plus, if I get caught speeding or something, I'll probably get a ticket. Good luck!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally got it. Make sure you get the right color. Took me about 30-45 minutes to install it. Works great and cost only $200! I purchased mine from Jose Diaz through parts.com. He's at Park Place Lexus in TX. Make sure if you have the beige interior, that you order the part that ends in E0 and not B0 which is gray.

Posted
Yes, going to have to replace. It's not hard. Just pry up the running board cover by the seat, then it'll let you access the cover over the seatbelt area.

I took a look at the running board cover by the drivers seat and couldn't exactly see how to pull the thing off. Do you have to take the entire running board off before you can access the cover over the retractor? Or are you saying that you can just pry up a corner of the running board to get to it?

I've got a good source for a seatbelt assembly for a $100, but I hate to buy it if I can't figure out how to install the thing without snapping the plastic of the cover or running board.

Thanks.

Oh yeah...are there different seat belt assemblies for the "memory" seats and those without?

Posted

i personally would not use wd 40 it is petroleum based and can damage the seat belt

the main reason why belts and tensioners go it because of dirt dust and hair

the mechansim inside it lightly greased

wd40 will remove all of it

and just leave the hair mainly to bind up

it you opened up the assembly it might just need a good cleaning

but most of them are made not to be tampered with so it is sealed

Posted

Just take a flathead screwdriver and pry up across the running board. It'll pop out. There are little plastic things across it underneath that just fit into the holes in the frame. They're pretty strong, so as long as you just pull it up evenly and work across it without just pulling up all on one side, you'll be fine. You'll have to do it to the one in the back as well. The same goes for the B pillar. Just pop it off. Then you'll just need to pry off the covers to the bolts at the top and bottom of the belt assembly, and ratchet them off. They're on pretty tight. Pull the carpet away from the side of the car as much as it can tolerate. There are plastic tab things holding them on under the running boards. You can see them easily, just pop them off with the same screwdriver. At the B pillar now: there's a smaller bolt at the top of the retracting portion that holds that whole retracting belt plastic part in. Just ratchet that off. That's not on so tight. Then just pull the assembly out of the hole in the B pillar. There is a set of cabling with a rectangular connector head in a plastic protector, that will go to the side of the running board next to the front seat. It is held in with a plastic pin, too, against the body. Pry that away from the body. Then squeeze the two edges of the protector cover over the plug-ins (there are two). That'll lift off them so you can disconnect them from the head. They're like phone cable connectors. Then just take that whole assembly out and replace with the new one and just retrace your steps. The easiest way is to just take the car apart first to see what you're up against and have the new part too to see what parts go where. The part comes with a line diagram showing how it's to fit in the car but you won't really need that if you just see how it's in there as you're taking it out. Very easy. If you can figure out how to take things apart and put them together without directions, you can figure this out. Trust me, I'm a "girl" and I figured it out just fine--but I'm a bit better with spatial relationships than most women are. Took me maybe 30-45 minutes tops--mostly because I had to really put some elbow grease into getting the bolts untightened. I've taken my LS400 apart quite a lot making a lot of interior repairs and most things just pop off with the help of a screwdriver. Don't be too afraid to break anything. It's really pretty durable. Also, my car has the memory seats, the adjustable everything, so you'll be fine. Good luck!


Posted

Wow! ccf913...that was certainly very nice of you to have taken the time to give such a complete "how-to". I certainly wasn't expecting such a complete rundown of what it takes to replace this item.

Thanks to you, I think I'll take another look at the running board and see if I can save myself some $ over what the dealer charges for labor.

Much appreciated,

-Taz

Posted

You're welcome, Taz. Frankly, I was concerned when I talked to the Lexus dealer who sold me the part that he couldn't ship it via air because it contained an explosive. An explosive?!? I thought I'd have to hire the dealer to install it. The tube that goes down into the B pillar from the retractor is the explosive. Lots of warnings on it. Don't worry about it, though. You don't have to take the little rubber cap off it to connect it to anything. It just settles down into the hole in the B pillar and doesn't cause any problems. I've used my seatbelt since I've installed it and I'm very happy with the results. I think the part is not as nice as the original, as the "feel" of the piece that hooks into the other side when you wear it is not as smooth nor does it have the same feel as the original. But hey, it's better than constantly snugging it up as I'm driving or reeling it in when I get out of the car else it'll get caught in the car door. My concern wasn't getting into an accident, but getting pulled over for speeding (I'm due for a ticket any time now) and then having the cop see my seatbelt isn't working properly and ticketing me for that, too. I've done a lot of work on this car, mostly cosmetic, and saved a lot of money. I even got an offer while I was at a stop light, by someone who wanted to know if I wanted to sell it. Got it Nov. 2002. It's a fantastic vehicle. Enjoy yours!

  • 4 years later...
Posted
Just take a flathead screwdriver and pry up across the running board. It'll pop out. There are little plastic things across it underneath that just fit into the holes in the frame. They're pretty strong, so as long as you just pull it up evenly and work across it without just pulling up all on one side, you'll be fine. You'll have to do it to the one in the back as well. The same goes for the B pillar. Just pop it off. Then you'll just need to pry off the covers to the bolts at the top and bottom of the belt assembly, and ratchet them off. They're on pretty tight. Pull the carpet away from the side of the car as much as it can tolerate. There are plastic tab things holding them on under the running boards. You can see them easily, just pop them off with the same screwdriver. At the B pillar now: there's a smaller bolt at the top of the retracting portion that holds that whole retracting belt plastic part in. Just ratchet that off. That's not on so tight. Then just pull the assembly out of the hole in the B pillar. There is a set of cabling with a rectangular connector head in a plastic protector, that will go to the side of the running board next to the front seat. It is held in with a plastic pin, too, against the body. Pry that away from the body. Then squeeze the two edges of the protector cover over the plug-ins (there are two). That'll lift off them so you can disconnect them from the head. They're like phone cable connectors. Then just take that whole assembly out and replace with the new one and just retrace your steps. The easiest way is to just take the car apart first to see what you're up against and have the new part too to see what parts go where. The part comes with a line diagram showing how it's to fit in the car but you won't really need that if you just see how it's in there as you're taking it out. Very easy. If you can figure out how to take things apart and put them together without directions, you can figure this out. Trust me, I'm a "girl" and I figured it out just fine--but I'm a bit better with spatial relationships than most women are. Took me maybe 30-45 minutes tops--mostly because I had to really put some elbow grease into getting the bolts untightened. I've taken my LS400 apart quite a lot making a lot of interior repairs and most things just pop off with the help of a screwdriver. Don't be too afraid to break anything. It's really pretty durable. Also, my car has the memory seats, the adjustable everything, so you'll be fine. Good luck!

What did you have to pay for the new retractor?

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