Shelly'sLS400

The Trac light does not come on the first drive of the day. After I turn the ignition off, and go back to the car and restart, the Trac light is on for the rest of the day, unless the car has cooled off for about 2 hours. It doesn't seem to effect the driveablity of the car. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be or where to start??????????

I just looked in the trunk and pulled the carpet back from the fuel tank. You can access the sender from the trunk and makes it easier than pulling the rear seat.... Thanks

I need to replace my fuel gage sender and was wondering if anybody has ever replaced one. I would imagine that it's not to difficult. I can get to the tank pretty easy. Any thoughts anyone????

I'm glad to hear she is okay too. Hope this doesn't have any lasting effects on her either. Bryan

Great! Thats good to hear :) I honestly don't know a whole lot about cars, but I'm learning what I can. Do you think it does look repairable, and would you fix it if in the same position? By the pics, it looks repairable. It's impossible for someone to make that call via the internet. You need to have a body shop or good body man make that call. If the frame is straight, then yes, that LS is worth fixing if you like the car. If that was mine, I would repair it. My car is solid and would be worth fixing. You and your boyfriend need to be the ones make that call. Good luck!!! Bryan & Shelly

So the two fans in the front are the radiator fans, correct? Thats Correct!!!!!

Great information guys!!!

It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the thermostat and o-ring while you are doing the belts and tensioners. The thermostat and o-ring would cost you under twenty dollars at your local dealer. I just replaced mine on my 90. My temp. was not getting up enough and just had t-belt and belts, tensioners, idlers, plugs, wires and radiator replaced, maybe 10,000 miles ago. I looked back and noticed that I did not buy a thermostat. Now, engine gets to temp and idles like it should... Just a thought!!! Bryan

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well all that was confusing!!!! So, what pair did you end up using!!!!!!!

Owners manuals come in handy!!!

Guess I'll be going with the OEM parts. Talked to a few BMW techs I work with and they feel that the OEM parts would be the way to go also. 167,252 mile and factory struts. If the new ones will last as long, I'll be in good shape.

My O/D & TRAC light did the same thing once before. I talked to a Lexus tech and he had me check the brake fluid level. Low and behold it was low. I top off the brake fluid and the lights went out. He said that was the way to get people in the dealer and charge the hell out of them. See if that works and let me know... Bryan

Looks great. My LS runs much cooler, but I think my Thermostat is stuck open. The operating temp is the key for all the temp. sensors to work right, then to send all the info to the ECU.

Could be a couple of things. The relay for the fan could be bad. The fan motor could be bad. I think the A/C system has to build pressure before the fan turns on. Have you driven it for a while to see if the fan does start??? Bryan

If your LS is still under factory warranty, why not take it to the dealer. The cabin filter is either dirty or the A/C evaporator has dirt and mold on it. When the fan is running, it blows air across the evap. and if its moldy, it smells bad in the cabin... Just a suggestion!!! Bryan

I HAVE LOOKED THRU THE FORUM AND STILL CAN'T DECIDED WHETHER TO GO WITH OEM PARTS OR AFTERMARKET. I CAN GET EMPLOYEE PRICES FROM HENDRICK LEXUS ( FRONT $86.71 EA. & REAR 97.16 EA. FRONT STRUT TOPS 78.25 EA. ). I KNOW I'M GETTING A GOOD PRICE, BUT I CAN GET TOKICO BRAND STRUTS FOR $80.08 EA. FRONT & REAR, FRONT STRUT TOPS FOR 49.09 EA. IT DOES SAVE ME SOME MONEY, BUT I DO NOT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT TOKICO STRUTS. I DID READ AN ARTICLE ABOUT THE TOKICO STRUTS AND THE PERSON SAID THEY WEREN'T BAD. DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE AN OPINION THAT COULD HELP ME BEFORE I SPEND ALL THIS MONEY?????

I have a same type problem and wrote the forum about it also . I had a few responses. Follow the link below or search my posts. I hope this helps. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ndpost&p=132437

Both ECU & engine are the factors, and ECU replacement is the fix assuming the engine isn't out of wack. I found the TSBs on my AllData CD, and, the last time I checked, they were also readily available online and at the dealers. Check engine error codes first before doing any repair. ← I'm having the same type of problem. From idle, in gear, I get a little spark knock also. I'm running premium fuel and have no check engine light showing. Are you saying that the ECU is faulty because of high miles? I have 143k on my 90!!! Other than the little knock, engine runs great and plenty of power, fuel mileage is the same.

We tried 87 octane once and it was terrible. The engine pinged so bad and I went to the auto parts store and added a bottle of booster. That was the end of the pinging and the last time for 87.

Its really personal opinion. The clear lens would blend in well to the silver. But if you don't like them, you can always sell them.

My driver side came loose and I first used hot glue. That held for 2 months, then lifted again. So then I used the trusty Super Glue and it has stayed down with no problems.

You need to check the brake fluid level. I had the same problem last month and come to find out that I had a brake line leaking and the fluid level went down again. The lights came back on and I knew I had a problem. After looking I found the brake line problem. Hope this helps.

I looked there last night! They use to be $35.00 but I guess the demand drove the price up. I could have sworn that I saw them on another web site!!!! Thanks

I thought about that last night and wondered what other Lexus model wheels would fit !!!!! Anybody have any suggestions?