2007 Rx400H Radiator Replacement

[WifesRX3001]

Hello, I am a relatively new member (signed up a few years ago, but havent been on the board much). I have to replace the radiator in my wifes 07, rx400h. I have replaced radiators in other cars,and wondered if there was anything special or unique about this project in the lexus. If anyone has a link to a procedure which identify and precautions i should take to prevent any damage please provide it. Also a picture of the location of the vent on the engine for ensureing all the air is out is much appreciated...thanks.

tito

[WifesRX3001]

i figured it out...thanks...

[RX400h]

I guess it's a good sign that no one else has had to replace his or her radiator!

[lenore]

Ok mine just cracked on the right side car facing the front bumper. The plastic tank has a 3 inch crack. Any tips on the replacement?

[lenore]

You spoke too soon, darn now I have to replace mine.

[lenore]

I just came up with a thought, maybe when the dogbone engine mount becomes weak, from the constant on and off of the ICE engine, the upper radiator hose puts stress on the radiator tank. I am considering replacement of the dogbone engine mount on top of the engine. This would cushion the constant torque on the radiator hose from the starting and stopping of the engine. Especially after 147k miles....just a thought...I ordered a Denso radiator, but am not sure of the quality etc. The unknown is getting everything out of the way to remove the radiator...

[RX400h]

Now, if you had that $1500 factory service manual set.................

[lenore]

Ok, finally received my radiator from RockAuto (Denso) was a great find, looked exactly like original minus crack. Tips: The rivet thing on the radiator support bar that goes from top to bottom of bumper area is really a plastic cap and can be removed with sharp screwdriver hiding a 10mm nut. This allows replacement of radiator without removing bumper. Other tip is there are( 4) 13mm bolts holding Radiator into radiator mount. The bottom two come up straight from the bottom of car, however not accessable unless you raise the condenser radiator assembly which then I put a block of wood under so that I could remove the lower two bolts. Other than that pretty straight forward. Put carboard between radiators to protect them while removing and replacing to protect fins. So total cost with a new lower radiator hose was $119. Oh yes and and coolant cost around $23 for Toyota pre mixed. Good luck my friends.

[F1098]

I just did the radiator on my 2008 RX400h. It had 137k miles and the passenger side end cap had a 6" crack.

Tips:

Bolted to the center of the upper radiator support, the vertical bar can be unbolted. Sharp screwdriver to pop off plastic cap to reveal a nut. remove the nut and the other 5 bolts and the upper radiator support will come off. This was mentioned above.

After disconnecting the radiator hoses and removing fan assembly, I used a pry bar the lift the lower radiator support (the radiator and AC radiator are bolted to this), and put a rubber flex disc (from a job on my wife's car) between the frame and lower radiator support bar.

Getting to the two 12mm bolts on the underside of the radiator support was a pita, I had to pull the lower radiator support bar rearward pretty significantly to access bolts. The passenger side lower bolt was the most difficult by far

The lower bolts attach to a square nut mounted in the radiator. The passenger side lower bolt was spinning but not unscrewing. The plastic housing had cracked and the square nut was spinning. It looked like the coolant that had dripped down had corroded the threads on the bolt and nut. I just pulled the radiator off that last nut and used pliers to get the square nut loose.

I had the most difficulty reinstalling the hose clamps. The channel lock pliers couldn't squeeze the clamp tabs far enough.

I finally googled it and found this video:

I got the clamps to lock open and they were a breeze to install.

[volosong]

Just had to replace the radiator on my '60 RX last month. Also leaking on the right side, (passenger side). 200,000 miles on the car.

[Tequila]

Regarding removing the radiator, I found it easier to remove the radiator with the lower support attached instead of removing the 2 12mm head bolts securing the radiator to the lower support. This is done by removing the bolts holding the ac condenser to the lower support, and lifting the condenser up and forward out of the lower support. The lower support is not fastened to the car, it just rests on the rubber iso mounts.

My radiator also had a crack in the passenger side tank on the front side near the top. Seems to be a common failure.

I also replaced it with the Denso. Perfect fit. Less than $100 including shipping from Autoplicity. Was on Fedex less than 2 hrs after order.

[lenore]

On ‎9‎/‎8‎/‎2015 at 8:46 AM, F1098 said:

I just did the radiator on my 2008 RX400h. It had 137k miles and the passenger side end cap had a 6" crack.

Tips:

Bolted to the center of the upper radiator support, the vertical bar can be unbolted. Sharp screwdriver to pop off plastic cap to reveal a nut. remove the nut and the other 5 bolts and the upper radiator support will come off. This was mentioned above.

After disconnecting the radiator hoses and removing fan assembly, I used a pry bar the lift the lower radiator support (the radiator and AC radiator are bolted to this), and put a rubber flex disc (from a job on my wife's car) between the frame and lower radiator support bar.

Getting to the two 12mm bolts on the underside of the radiator support was a pita, I had to pull the lower radiator support bar rearward pretty significantly to access bolts. The passenger side lower bolt was the most difficult by far

The lower bolts attach to a square nut mounted in the radiator. The passenger side lower bolt was spinning but not unscrewing. The plastic housing had cracked and the square nut was spinning. It looked like the coolant that had dripped down had corroded the threads on the bolt and nut. I just pulled the radiator off that last nut and used pliers to get the square nut loose.

I had the most difficulty reinstalling the hose clamps. The channel lock pliers couldn't squeeze the clamp tabs far enough.

I finally googled it and found this video:

I got the clamps to lock open and they were a breeze to install.

They do make a tool for those clamps...Makes it so much easier.