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Posted

We went out this evening and attempted to repair the adjustable steering wheel problem (stuck in the up position). Tool box in hand and garden hose washer at the ready. I followed the pictured tutorial I downloaded last week. So with my 13 year son we got the two lower screws removed, separated the left top cover, but could not remove or unfasten the right side. Something is preventing this from being released. We looked for a 3rd screw, but there was none. What is keeping the top cover from releasing. It's also keeping the lower half from dropping down. I'm sure its something simple, but I did not want to force the issue and possibly cause some damage. I know you guys out there know the answer. We're waiting here for your reply. We'll complete the repair tomorrow based on your assistance. Thank you in advance...again.

Posted

Larry, as a rule the garden hose washer fix is for the in & out motion of the colume.

the up & down might be like this:

I copied this from someone on the forum:

My '96 had the same problem. What I did before tearing the steering column apart is to check out the micro switch on the ignition lock cylinder. The switch is attached to the underside of the cylinder by two very small phillips screws and has a button that fits up into a slot near the opening of the cylinder. When the key is inserted into the cylinder, it pushes the button down completing the circuit and energizing the tilt/ telescope motors. After years or use, dirt accumulates around the switch button and it can become sticky. I took out the screws and carefully pulled the switch down and away from the cylinder, and by using a small brush and blowing on it, I was able to clean the dirt from around the switch button and the hole in the cylinder. Be careful not to blow dirt into the cylinder. I reinstalled the switch, inserted the key and the column worked properly.

You can access the ignition switch by removing the lower insturment under cover, then dropping the lower safety panel, this is the panel below the steering column and contains the switches for the trunk lid release and fuel door release and has an air duct, which is just below the column. These coverings are held in place by screws and clips. Then you will have to remove the lock cylinder finish plate, this is the round bezel that surrounds the cylinder, pull it straight out, it's a press fit. Then pull out the cylinder surrounding cover, the square shaped cover that fills the space between the steering column and the center console, it has the round hole for the cylinder and is held in place by retaining clips. This will give you full access to the cylinder and you can remove the switch without removing the cylinder.

Just something to check before disassembling the column. Good luck.

I havent had a 94 lately, but turn your steering wheel 1/2 turn and see if there are a couple of screws hideing from you......

Posted
Larry, as a rule the garden hose washer fix is for the in & out motion of the colume.

the up & down might be like this:

I copied this from someone on the forum:

My '96 had the same problem. What I did before tearing the steering column apart is to check out the micro switch on the ignition lock cylinder. The switch is attached to the underside of the cylinder by two very small phillips screws and has a button that fits up into a slot near the opening of the cylinder. When the key is inserted into the cylinder, it pushes the button down completing the circuit and energizing the tilt/ telescope motors. After years or use, dirt accumulates around the switch button and it can become sticky. I took out the screws and carefully pulled the switch down and away from the cylinder, and by using a small brush and blowing on it, I was able to clean the dirt from around the switch button and the hole in the cylinder. Be careful not to blow dirt into the cylinder. I reinstalled the switch, inserted the key and the column worked properly.

You can access the ignition switch by removing the lower insturment under cover, then dropping the lower safety panel, this is the panel below the steering column and contains the switches for the trunk lid release and fuel door release and has an air duct, which is just below the column. These coverings are held in place by screws and clips. Then you will have to remove the lock cylinder finish plate, this is the round bezel that surrounds the cylinder, pull it straight out, it's a press fit. Then pull out the cylinder surrounding cover, the square shaped cover that fills the space between the steering column and the center console, it has the round hole for the cylinder and is held in place by retaining clips. This will give you full access to the cylinder and you can remove the switch without removing the cylinder.

Just something to check before disassembling the column. Good luck.

I havent had a 94 lately, but turn your steering wheel 1/2 turn and see if there are a couple of screws hideing from you......

Posted

Billy:

Thanks for the reply. The problem is the wheel is not lowering itself when the key is inserted in the ignition. You can hear the screw cycling and what sounds like the gear grinding like its misaligned. It sounds like the classic system of the washer being worn down behind the gear. I'll check for a 3rd screw later today after work.

Posted
Did you turn the wheel to expose the screw, bottom right of cover?

Is there a 3rd screw that we missed? We did move the wheel to expose the right side screw.

Posted
Did you turn the wheel to expose the screw, bottom right of cover?

My son (13 years old) and I attempted the steering wheel repair again tonight with SUCCESS! There was a 3rd screw exposed behind the steering wheel when turned allowing the upper and lower covers to separate. Here's a great tip. Instead of modifying some tool or scrap metal we used the small paint can openers I got over the weekend at Home Depot! They were small enough to fit behind the plastic gear and gently nudge it loose. Best part is that they were free! They are the smallest ones I ever seen. They're now in my tool box. After removing the gear we saw the problem. The rubber (what was left of it) had pretty much gone away leaving the blue gear to wobble and fail to line up. After cleaning the rubber remains my son inserted the "hose washer". He reinstalled the metal washer and nut and it works! 7 months in the up position was quite annoying. I set it on auto and after a few tests put it back together. By the way, I called the Lexus service center and this repair is $240.00! How can they justify this? Total cost of this repair......25 minutes of time and a 10 cent washer that will probably last for years. Anytime we can avoid the dealer is a good day. Thanks guys for your tips and help once again! (My wife is very happy too.)

Posted
Larry, as a rule the garden hose washer fix is for the in & out motion of the colume.

the up & down might be like this:

I copied this from someone on the forum:

My '96 had the same problem. What I did before tearing the steering column apart is to check out the micro switch on the ignition lock cylinder. The switch is attached to the underside of the cylinder by two very small phillips screws and has a button that fits up into a slot near the opening of the cylinder. When the key is inserted into the cylinder, it pushes the button down completing the circuit and energizing the tilt/ telescope motors. After years or use, dirt accumulates around the switch button and it can become sticky. I took out the screws and carefully pulled the switch down and away from the cylinder, and by using a small brush and blowing on it, I was able to clean the dirt from around the switch button and the hole in the cylinder. Be careful not to blow dirt into the cylinder. I reinstalled the switch, inserted the key and the column worked properly.

You can access the ignition switch by removing the lower insturment under cover, then dropping the lower safety panel, this is the panel below the steering column and contains the switches for the trunk lid release and fuel door release and has an air duct, which is just below the column. These coverings are held in place by screws and clips. Then you will have to remove the lock cylinder finish plate, this is the round bezel that surrounds the cylinder, pull it straight out, it's a press fit. Then pull out the cylinder surrounding cover, the square shaped cover that fills the space between the steering column and the center console, it has the round hole for the cylinder and is held in place by retaining clips. This will give you full access to the cylinder and you can remove the switch without removing the cylinder.

Just something to check before disassembling the column. Good luck.

I havent had a 94 lately, but turn your steering wheel 1/2 turn and see if there are a couple of screws hideing from you......

Posted

Thanks to Royt and Billy for helping us find the elusive 3rd screw. This is such a simple repair. If anyone needs any assistance, please feel free to ask.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Thanks to Royt and Billy for helping us find the elusive 3rd screw. This is such a simple repair. If anyone needs any assistance, please feel free to ask.

i have the same problem in my 94 ls400 the wheel does not come down...how do i fix this exactly?

Posted

Thanks to Royt and Billy for helping us find the elusive 3rd screw. This is such a simple repair. If anyone needs any assistance, please feel free to ask.

i have the same problem in my 94 ls400 the wheel does not come down...how do i fix this exactly?

You could try Google or follow the video tutorial below

or

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4237

As other members have said you can simply fit a suitable replacement washer (try Home Depot) under the gear to get the same results.

Posted

Thanks to Royt and Billy for helping us find the elusive 3rd screw. This is such a simple repair. If anyone needs any assistance, please feel free to ask.

i have the same problem in my 94 ls400 the wheel does not come down...how do i fix this exactly?

You could try Google or follow the video tutorial below

or

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4237

As other members have said you can simply fit a suitable replacement washer (try Home Depot) under the gear to get the same results.

thanks that bolt to get the gear out is what i had trouble getting out lol. thanks for the youtube link.

Posted

Thanks to Royt and Billy for helping us find the elusive 3rd screw. This is such a simple repair. If anyone needs any assistance, please feel free to ask.

i have the same problem in my 94 ls400 the wheel does not come down...how do i fix this exactly?

You could try Google or follow the video tutorial below

or

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4237

As other members have said you can simply fit a suitable replacement washer (try Home Depot) under the gear to get the same results.

thanks that bolt to get the gear out is what i had trouble getting out lol. thanks for the youtube link.

success lol. that actually worked.

  • 2 years later...
Posted
My '99 does not telescope at all so I need to do the fix but interestingly enough, the tilt started not lowering intermittantly and then stopped altogether. I can lower it manually and it always raised automatically when the car was shut off. The telescope does not function manually. I had a spare key so I tried that and the wheel lowered when placed in the ignition consistently so I'm thinking it is the micro switch that needs cleaning although I don't know why the key would make a difference?
Posted

The 1999 year model has a different motor set up to the earlier years and the motors have been known to fail.

Bad news is they are not cheap but some other Toyota models use the same motor and cost less.

As you mention check the key sensor 1st.

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