ROYT

Search your club forum, this popular problem is widely covered here and in the UK

The junction box with the tail light relay does swing down, I think there is a clip at one end, but it's so long since I looked i can't be sure. Definitely swings down though!

In the shop manual the fuel pump solenoid resistor appears to be directly connected to the centre tap of the FP relay, marked PR. Using an ohmmeter the resistance between the terminals is shown as 0.67 - -0.79 ohm at 20 degrees C [68 F.] replace if out of spec. Assuming Europe spec. is the same as USA!! Hope this may help

Did you check first for the popular fault of breaks in the wiring in the boot[trunk] hinge?

Try to verify that you have fuel line pressure. I.E that the pump is running

Series 2 cars Europe the fuel pump ECU is shown on the right side of the boot [Trunk] This may be the left side for USA. Cannot see a location for your series one car.

Try swapping it with the one next to it, if it works it may be the HT wire is faulty or just a faulty plug. If continues to get fowled all the time may be faulty injector not spraying nice cone or leaking

Here is a tip someone might find useful if they have to change the starter themselves. I just did mine. Having got the starter in sight, you have the painfully slow job trying to get the fixing bolts undone at 1/4 turn at a time. I left the EGR pipe in place which didn't help the access but saved another lousy job. Buy a LONG 14MM Spanner[WRENCH!] you can reach in better than the standard size. After you manage to get the bolts out, cut a neat sawcut in the threaded end, leaving no burrs and do not mark the threads, make sure they are clean. When refitting, as soon as you get the bolts started, use a thin screwdriver and WIND THEM COMPLETELY IN FROM THE THREADED END, this just leaves final tightening and saves a lot of time.

Did you turn the wheel to expose the screw, bottom right of cover?

I looked at the parts list for SC. Looks like ;disc off: large nut on end of shaft off hub end off.... and there is a snap ring behind the oil seal, is this holding it? Just trying to help, never done this job!

Local to me aircon specialist recharged mine not Lexus. I expected a five minute job, he was there two hours. Had elaborate unit of containers and lines on a small trolley. Apparently to be done right the system has to evacuated and god knows what before recharging etc and also a small amount of special oil is in there too. Cost me £50, think about 80 dollars US.

Have someone check the aircon for refrigerant. On earlier models, mine is a '94, the compressor will not try to run without refrigerent. It's part of the design, after recharging mine worked fine..

Primary coil resistance 0.41 - 0.50 ohms Secondary coil resistance 10.2 - 13.8 ohms. H.T wire resistance limit... 25k ohms per wire. Shown in w/shop manual for Europe spec. car [uK], presumably same for USA?

Strip out the area where it smoked and look for wires melted together etc...

Did you top up the water inlet housing[ nut on top of thermostat housing ] with coolant first before the overflow tank? the water valve lever is shown UP [presumably wide open] for this procedure. Maybe this is to prevent an air lock?..just guessing but worth a try..

Thanks for the info.... Re Iraq etc........ don't think the western world has a cure for places where religion produces suicide bombers....

Hi Folks Hoping they are the same remote over here in UK, can anyone tell me the battery number for the key? cheers

If the electrical movement is faulty, suspect the module for memory etc. If it's just the heated bit, mine don't heat unless the rear screen heater is on.....

If you have'nt fixed this, when my key would not operate the electric door locks I found a small switch [behind the key] on the lock barrel was the fault. It is quite small with silver contacts, these were worn and when the key was turned in either direction they made no connection. Replaced with second hand one, now all fixed. If you are handy you can actually dismantle the switch and clean and check the contacts, but as its a fiddly thing to get to, have a serviceable replacement ready in case its shot!

You could try 10/40 for a start and see if thats better. Don't know about Seafoam...don't think this is available in th UK cheers

How many miles has the car done? 5/30 oil is hot and thin at high speed, you may be better with a thicker grade.....

I used to get this on my old Mercedes.........Look at each hub for the small disc that has edges like a castle wall. Make sure these are clean with no mud etc in the 'wall', each segment must be clean. Clean the sensor ends [ these are close to the 'wall'] at the same time. ABS works by 'seeing' the high and low steps of the wall, if the wheel locks the sensor 'sees' it and puts on the ABS system If they get full of mud etc the sensor 'sees' it as not revolving i.e wheel locked.

Check the splash guards are not touching the disc.......easy to bend them when working on the brakes.

OMAR When my LS was down on one side it had a broken front spring. I replaced them both myself. The strut comes out easy with the spring still on, you can work in comfort in a vice [make some lead jaw liners] What you do need is some really strong spring compressors. ;)

Thanks for that ....... I'll have a look :)