amcdonal86 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks. Where can I find a replacement part online?Sewell, Park Place, Carson, Irontoad (aka Thompson Lexus in PA), Lexus Parts Mall, etc. shop each of them and buy from whoever is the cheapest.Also, what is the procedure for removing it?Unbolt the shock mount (some unbolt the shock too; I find that unnecessary), mark the alignment washers on the strut rod, and then unbolt the strut rod's nuts and bolts. It's a very easy job. Where is the shock mount? Is it accessed in the engine bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blake918 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Where is the shock mount? Is it accessed in the engine bay?You get to it in the wheel well. I'm referring to the bracket that attaches the shock and spring assembly to the lower control arm (I probably should have been more clear).This is what I'm referring to, see how the strut rod is blocked in by that bracket.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Where is the shock mount? Is it accessed in the engine bay?You get to it in the wheel well. I'm referring to the bracket that attaches the shock and spring assembly to the lower control arm (I probably should have been more clear).This is what I'm referring to, see how the strut rod is blocked in by that bracket.... Thanks again for the info blake918. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 I did a little searching and found this tutorial for removing strut rods. It's for a '98 but it should apply to most years, I think! http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM Hope someone else can benefit from this, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 For any interested parties, I have attached a photo of the strut rods (just received them an hour ago). I was going to install them today, but the weather isn't cooperating and UPS got here late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Well, I finally replaced them. I haven't had much time to drive around yet, but the noise still seems to be there, although much less frequent (seems acceptable to me). That was a pain in the butt!!! Taking them off was easy, but getting them back on was another thing. I finally found it best to bolt the non-bushing side in loosely first, and then worry about the bushing side. Using a ratchet as a pry tool is also a good idea, because getting that tube in the bushing to line up with that bolt is a pain in the ***!!! Overall, it was about a 4 hour install, and I consider myself fairly well seasoned, although I have never done suspension work. The job is impossible if you do not have at least a 2 foot breaker bar "cheater" extension. Don't go much longer than that, because beyond that, you'll have a lot of trouble even getting the breaker bar in position! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 Well, this repair has done absolutely nothing to mitigate the noise, but my ride quality and vibration levels are much improved. Also, cross slopes on pavement do not require as much counteraction with the wheel. I noticed that now I have a strange clicking sound coming from the right front brakes. I will probably try to lube them up. I may have inadvertently dislodged some one of the clips on the brake pads while I was jamming the strut bar into place. Other than that, the noise is still there! What could it be? UCAs? Ball joints? Sway bar links? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billydpowell Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 ROFL. The service advisor just read me the "results" of their "diagnosis". Of course, there is a long laundry list of problems related to the suspension. Apparently the rear struts are blown, the front ball joints are leaking, etc., etc.I asked them just to replace the sway bar bushings. Hopefully they will do that instead of scamming me. Probably won't be coming back to this dealership again. They could be right about those problems, but I certainly don't notice any "clanking" during braking and I have a good ear. This info is for a 1997 LS400, probably the same as yours, Hi, replace both strut rods, The strut rod part numbers are 48670-40011(LH) and 48660-40021(RH). They come complete with bushings and 2 pressed-in bolts. they run about 95 each. http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM this will show you how. and that lowspeed clunk will be gone. cheers.. Worked for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 ROFL. The service advisor just read me the "results" of their "diagnosis". Of course, there is a long laundry list of problems related to the suspension. Apparently the rear struts are blown, the front ball joints are leaking, etc., etc.I asked them just to replace the sway bar bushings. Hopefully they will do that instead of scamming me. Probably won't be coming back to this dealership again. They could be right about those problems, but I certainly don't notice any "clanking" during braking and I have a good ear. This info is for a 1997 LS400, probably the same as yours, Hi, replace both strut rods, The strut rod part numbers are 48670-40011(LH) and 48660-40021(RH). They come complete with bushings and 2 pressed-in bolts. they run about 95 each. http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM this will show you how. and that lowspeed clunk will be gone. cheers.. Worked for me.... Thank you. I replaced them, and the "creak" is still there, but only on really huge dips where the suspension is suddenly compressed. It doesn't seem to happen when I throw the car pretty hard into a corner anymore (I don't tend to do that on this kind of lumberwagon, but just for the purposes of diagnosis I did). Perhaps it's just me hitting the bumpstops, but I doubt it! Well anyhow, about the clicking noise in the brakes I was referring to:[i/] On a hunch, I used my spare tire jack to jack up the car and removed the front right wheel where the noise was coming from. To my surprise, the two lower nuts securing/sandwiching the lower control arm with the strut rod were not tightened at all! I mean they were barely hanging onto the end of the studs!! Since it was raining, I had done the job in a parking garage nearby. Apparently it's private (although free), and the owner came out and yelled at me and said to get the car out of there. So I picked up the pace and I must've forgotten those two nuts!!! Now the "clicking" noise emanating from the brakes is completely gone, and the car truly does ride like it's on glass now (even more so than when the nuts were not tightened)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Well anyhow, I think I will wait until the weather gets warmer (maybe 70) to see if the noise goes away. If it does, then it was probably some sort of bushing and then I can go from there. For now I think I will just live with the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McSwine Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I've got a "thunk" that goes away during warm weather (strut bars didn't fix). Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 Well, today is definitely the warmest day (high of 60) since I've had the car. The noise is completely non-existent, and the ride quality seemed better than ever. I think this confirms that it is a rubber bushing of some kind. I think I will probably try replacing the upper shock mounts and see what happens. I will have to wait until next weekend, though, as I will be out of town on business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e333li Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 do your shocks/struts have some kind of plastic cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 I'm not 100% sure. Why do you ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Well, I'm mentally preparing myself for replacing the upper shock mounts. I see that the ball joints are removed with a ball joint puller. I assume that since a ball joint puller is required to remove them that they must be hard to put the ball joints back in place. How is this done? Brute strength? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 Anyone have any idea? Also, don't I need a spring compressor in order to replace the upper shock mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Well, today was the big day. I installed the upper strut mounts, and the noise is GONE! I'm glad I did a little research and found that out what parts to replace myself. I hope somebody gets some use out of this thread! The install was a PITA! Removing the strut assembly is easy enough, but using the spring compressors (especially if you don't have a vice of some kind to work with) can be incredibly tricky. Also, the correct alignment of the strut mount (90º to the lower shock bolt) is imperative when you are putting the assembly back in, and is difficult to align while decompressing the spring. This is definitely a two-man job, in my opinion. If you are having creaking noise on cold days when going over large dips/bumps or are feeling like the suspension is slightly loose, you may want to consider replacing your upper strut mounts! (BTW, I celebrated fixing this noise by getting a speeding ticket, and also by washing the car! It's a beauty!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McSwine Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Anyone have any idea?Also, don't I need a spring compressor in order to replace the upper shock mounts? Are the strut mounts the part you see when you open the hood? I've got a 2000 with the same noise and I'm trying to make sure I order the correct part. thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Anyone have any idea?Also, don't I need a spring compressor in order to replace the upper shock mounts? Are the strut mounts the part you see when you open the hood? I've got a 2000 with the same noise and I'm trying to make sure I order the correct part. thx Yes they are. Beware, it's a fairly involved install. If you don't have a vice, make sure you have a friend to hold the spring down while you compress it. Took us about 3 hours for the two front upper strut/shock mounts. I got my parts from RockAuto. They are Monroe aftermarket parts, but they are very high quality parts, in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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