Lower Ball Joint Replacement

[mejojo]

I bought left and right lower ball joint assemblies from IronToad.com ($85 each) and am plannig for the installation. It seems straightforward enough, but the instructions call for:

"Disconnect tie rod from steering knuckle arm using tie rod puller No. 09628-62011 or equivalent"

and

"Remove lower ball joint from lower suspension arm using ball joint remover tool No. 09628-62011"

Of course, the tool number is the same for both. My question is....is this a tool I need to procure from AutoZone for the job, or will an alternative (such as a hammer haha) do the job?

Any input?

I will take pictures and post the procedure when I do the job, which probably won't be until the weekend after Christmas.

Joe

[obergc]

It looks like a standard gear puller in the picture Joe. The trick will be to find one that will fit right. Autozone has a loan a tool program that might do the trick. Check this one out.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...tie_rod_end.jsp

Curt O

[wolver1ne516]

Ever heard of a pickle fork?

[tansupplyman]

Most of the time a pickle fork will destroy the tie rod rubber seal but you can use if these are to be replaced.

Here is a link for polyurethene bushings FYI:

http://www.daizensporttuning.com/products/...m_bushings.html

[mejojo]

Finally got around to replacing my lower ball joints. As I mentioned, I bought them at irontoad.com for $85 each.

I tried to attach the before and after picture, but got grief. Check the gallery page 27. It was pretty straightforward, with just a couple of gotchas. There are only 6 fasteners of interest:

2 bolts that attach brake caliper. I don't know if caliper removal is necessary, but since it just takes a minute to get a couple of pounds off the wheel, why not.

2 bolts that attach the steering knuckle to the ball joint assembly. These were on there *real* tight....I used a 24" braker bar to manhandle these.

1 nut and pin to attach tie rod end to ball joint end

1 nut and cotter pin to attach the actual ball joint to the lower suspension arm.

You loosen all these bolts/nuts before taking anything apart.

Remove the 2 steering knuckle bolts and swing the wheel/knuckle out of the way. This is necessary to get a clear run at your tie rod end with the puller.

Both the tie rod and ball joint bolts will take a fair amount of pressure with the puller before you hear a quick "crack" and then they're loose. I was expecting to have to press the bolts out, but it's not like that.

Installation of the new part is now trivial...just the reverse.

The one thing that almost got me was that the tie rod joint bolt sort of mushroomed when enough pressure was put on with the puller to get it loose. I had to spend about 1/2 hour dressing the threads with a file before I could get the nut back on. I did NOT want to have to take the tie rod end off and get it to a mechanic with the appropriate dies. Yeesh.

The first one took me about 2 hours including a run to AutoZone to borrow the puller and breaker bar. Once I finished the first side, I was sure I could do the other side in under an hour, but then I had the thread problem to deal with.

An average DIYer with the proper tools should be able to finish in well under 3 hours for both sides.

Joe

[99lsguy]

Joe,

Great post!

How do the NEW tie rod & ball joints go on? Do you use the special tool to PRESS them back in or what?

How could one avoid the damaged threads?

I've copied/pasted all of this down for future reference - Thanks!!!

sound like you save $300+ by DIY :D

[mejojo]

The tie rod end and ball joint are reattached just by tightening the respective nuts and inserting the pins to keep the nuts from going loose.

The dealer quoted $410 for the job, so I saved $230. ($410 - $85 - $85 - $10 shipping)

If I did it again, I would put some hard metal "buffer" on top of the stud. I guess the ideal thing would be another nut of the same size threaded on most of the way, but leaving a small gap at the top. The puller center rod has a pointed center which made an indentation in the top of the stud and began the deformation. I'd try to avoid direct contact.

Hopefully it will be many years before your 99 needs ball joints!

Joe

[99lsguy]

Joe,

Thanks for the reply :D

Yes - I do hope I have many miles and years ahead of me

[tansupplyman]

Got my lower joints from Irontoad today---was really'scared' about the order[by cc] since there was no address or tele # on the website. Had no idea who irontoad was, are where there were; and if I didn't get the order, how could I tell my cc co. what happened(with only a web address). So.............

Was happy to see when I received the order that it is a Lexus dealer in Pa. Maybe they are just not wanting to advertise(by listing their name) that they are 'lowballing' these factory parts.

Tks for the write up; let you know if all goes well on this end.

You didn't say if you 'didn't' hear or felt any difference !!!!!

[wmOH]

I recently had tires installed on my 96 LS400.

The installer suggested checking the alignment. I agreed, even though this car drives in a straight line without fail, and has shown NO abnormal tire wear.

When I picked up the car, he indicated he could not do the alignment because the lower ball joints had too much play and needed replacement.

This car has only 62k miles. Is it reasonable to expect that the ball joints need replacement?

Thanks.

Bill

[99lsguy]

wmOH,

The miles are a little early. But the car is 7 1/2 years old so it is possible.

I suggest a GOOD IMPORT SHOP (with specialty in LEXUS) could give you a better diagnositic. Call Dealer with estimate too...

They'd probably check it for $40 or so and then apply that toward alignment/repair if something was really wrong.

Let us know what you find out....

[mejojo]

Tan,

Yes, the steering wheel play is greatly reduced, though I still need an alignment to reap the full rewards of this repair. I, too, was told that an alignment couldn't be done with my old ball joints. So, now I need to find an alignment place.

Good luck...it's dirty, greasy work. I think I washed my hands 5 times. If I had it to do over again, I'd wash the front underside, especially the inner side of the wheels, at a do-it-yourself car wash with the jet sprayer. A pair of cotton gloves would also save you some scrubbing time.

Joe

[michaelsn]

I thought this repair manual on CD was useless. I found this in it, I hope it helps if you want to check the lower ball joint yourself.

BALL JOINT CHECKING

Upper Ball Joint

Clamp ball joint in vise. Move stud back and forth 5 times

through its entire range. Install nut. Using INCH-lb. torque wrench,

turn stud at rate of 2-4 seconds per turn. Measure turning torque on

fifth turn. Replace ball joint if turning torque is not 9-30 INCH lbs.

(1.0-3.4 N.m).

Lower Ball Joint (LS400)

1) Raise vehicle. Place 8" wooden block under one front tire.

Ensure wheels are positioned straight-ahead. Lower vehicle until

approximately 1/2 of wheel load exists on one coil spring. Place

jackstands under vehicle.

2) Move lower arm up and down. Measure ball joint vertical

play. If play exceeds .012" (.3 mm), replace ball joint. See LOWER

CONTROL ARM & BALL JOINT under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.

(How do you measure 0.3mm!!!???) Michael

[tansupplyman]

TKS, Joe

On the gloves: EVERYONE needs to get the 'latex' gloves[really not latex, but tough Nitrile or something]; you can get a box of 100 at autoparts etc stores. They are super for just about any dirty car work(also protects when you are using solvents)--the box will last for years.

Now if I can just remember to use them !!!!!!!!

[Rice]

I thought this repair manual on CD was useless. I found this in it, I hope it helps if you want to check the lower ball joint yourself.

BALL JOINT CHECKING

Upper Ball Joint

Clamp ball joint in vise. Move stud back and forth 5 times

through its entire range. Install nut. Using INCH-lb. torque wrench,

turn stud at rate of 2-4 seconds per turn. Measure turning torque on

fifth turn. Replace ball joint if turning torque is not 9-30 INCH lbs.

(1.0-3.4 N.m).

Lower Ball Joint (LS400)

1) Raise vehicle. Place 8" wooden block under one front tire.

Ensure wheels are positioned straight-ahead. Lower vehicle until

approximately 1/2 of wheel load exists on one coil spring. Place

jackstands under vehicle.

2) Move lower arm up and down. Measure ball joint vertical

play. If play exceeds .012" (.3 mm), replace ball joint. See LOWER

CONTROL ARM & BALL JOINT under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.

(How do you measure 0.3mm!!!???) Michael

The procedure is correct.

As far as 0.3mm, the answer is simple; There sould not be any play in ball joints, period.

[mejojo]

I FINALLY got down to the alignment shop and now, with new ball joints and an alignment, it drives very much like new. Before the alignment, it felt a bit shaky/wobbly, and I had my doubts about the ball joints being the problem, but now it's great.

Of course, without new ball joints you may be told that an alignment is not possible, or worthwhile, as it seems that Gen 1 LS400s ball joints are about done for by 100,000 miles.

4-wheel alignment was $74.95. The dealer wanted $117 for the same.

Joe

[wmOH]

Finally got around to replacing the ball joints. At 65,000 miles my 96 LS has seen mostly city miies. The replacement was definitely needed. Rides great now.

With my brother helping, we also replaced all four rotors, pads, brake line bleed, tranny fluid and lube bushings... in under 3 hours.

Rotors probably did not need to be replaced. I am keeping them in case the new ones get messed up or someone out there needs a cheap replacement.

[blake918]

Where do yall go for alignments?

[99lsguy]

Finally got around to replacing the ball joints. At 65,000 miles my 96 LS has seen mostly city miies. The replacement was definitely needed. Rides great now.

With my brother helping, we also replaced all four rotors, pads, brake line bleed, tranny fluid and lube bushings... in under 3 hours.

Rotors probably did not need to be replaced. I am keeping them in case the new ones get messed up or someone out there needs a cheap replacement.

wmOH,

where & what brand of rotors did you get?

HOw much for all four?

[99lsguy]

Where do yall go for alignments?

Blake,

I got a coupon from local Lexus dealer for $69 wheel alignment. Since I keep on thinking I need tires, I would go to the dealer for this price - although I"d probably call my local Indep. Lexus shop first and see if they'd match the price.

This being said, they (indep shop) probably would match the $$, so I'd take it there because they'll let me watch and ask questions. I don't like to miss an opportunity to chat to a mechanic while my Lexus is up on the rack

My coupon is good thru 6/30/04.........so now if I'll just bit the bullet and get some new treads

[wmOH]

99lsguy,

Metro Lexus -dealer at WWW.discountlexusparts.com

Talked to Paul.

91 for the front, 101 for back. Pads about 100 for all.

They are in Canada, so the exchange rate will determine final price.

Like I mentioned, at 65k the rotors actually looked pretty good. I probably should have had them machined, but with the calipers off to do ball joints, and working on a Sunday AM, without a machine shop available, I bit the bullet and paid the price. I probably still spent less than having a dealer do the service without rotors, and had fun doing it.

[99lsguy]

wmOH,

you are absolutely correct!!!