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Posted

Lately, my stock sub has been making this horrible sound to which I can't stand listening to music. Its time I need to get it replaced. If I am correct, the stock sub is 8" and shouldn't produce more than 40 RMS, right? I went down to circuit city and best buy and they had nothing for stock replacement. Is there any store online where I can buy a replacement?

Posted
No I don't want to buy from ebay, I'd rather buy from a legit dealer online.

PM DCfish, he might help. One thing you'll run into with the sub, is that there are not a lot of aftermarket options if all you want to do is drop one in and hook it up. measurements and depth are unique to the car's oem setup.

Posted

Hi,

I couldnt find an equivalent sub anywhere. So i took my sub to a repair shop and they quoted me $80 for re-coning.

I didn't want to spend that much so I bought a 8 inch sub off craigslist for 10 bucks and removed its cone and am now going to install it into the OEM myself.

Wish me luck...

Posted
No I don't want to buy from ebay, I'd rather buy from a legit dealer online.

EXCUSE me - it was just a suggestion.

My bad, I wasn't trying to be rude or anything. I just don't like ordering from ebay anymore.

Posted
No I don't want to buy from ebay, I'd rather buy from a legit dealer online.

EXCUSE me - it was just a suggestion.

My bad, I wasn't trying to be rude or anything. I just don't like ordering from ebay anymore.

Be careful when replacing the stock subwoofer, mine was a pioneer 2 ohm speaker. Unless you want to change out the amp too, 8" 2 ohm subwoofers are all but impossible to find. You can wire a 4 ohm dual voice coil into a 2 ohm configuration. That's what I did with this speaker, http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...eries/db804dvc/, I bought mine online at www.cardomain.com, and paid about $80. It fit pretty well after bending back the lip of the rear dash hole with a crescent wrench.

Good Luck!

Posted
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about cardomain.com. Were the connections easy to install?

Yes, just soldered on stock connector.

Posted

My car stay several years on the sun and the sub is dead.

All forums says that we must find the same : 40 RMS, 2 OHM, 8".

On ebay, there is nothing. What is 40 RMS? is someone can explain to me the RMS?

8" is the diameter so, 20 cm.

To connect only two wires. It's important for the polarity?

Thanks all

Denis the frenchy

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about cardomain.com. Were the connections easy to install?

Yes, just soldered on stock connector.

Hi, I was reading thru the posts and 'cause I have the same problem with my '02 LS 430 UL, I would like to know how did you connect the two 4 ohm coils. Was that in parallel, that would give you 2 ohm impedence across. There are dual 2 ohm coil woofers available too, could they be used? thanks for your input.

Posted
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about cardomain.com. Were the connections easy to install?

Yes, just soldered on stock connector.

Hi, I was reading thru the posts and 'cause I have the same problem with my '02 LS 430 UL, I would like to know how did you connect the two 4 ohm coils. Was that in parallel, that would give you 2 ohm impedence across. There are dual 2 ohm coil woofers available too, could they be used? thanks for your input.

Check out this website for a wiring diagram (http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?imageID=1DVC%5F4%2Dohm%5Fmono)

Posted
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about cardomain.com. Were the connections easy to install?

Yes, just soldered on stock connector.

Hi, I was reading thru the posts and 'cause I have the same problem with my '02 LS 430 UL, I would like to know how did you connect the two 4 ohm coils. Was that in parallel, that would give you 2 ohm impedence across. There are dual 2 ohm coil woofers available too, could they be used? thanks for your input.

Check out this website for a wiring diagram (http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?imageID=1DVC%5F4%2Dohm%5Fmono)

FRENCHY:

I believe RMS is TRUE WATTAGE.... It is usually exactly half of what the rated power of a speaker is. Speaker sine waves are measure peak to peak giving them a differencce between the high(+) and low(-) peak. this number is the total power (wattage) of the speaker.

RMS is the measurement from the top(+) peak to the zero(halfway) line.

40 watts RMS = 80 watts speaker

Most speakers you find in you stereo store will show the total power on the front as 80watts and then show an RMS wattage rating on the side of the box.

The reason they have 80 watts on the front???? Wouldn't you rather buy 80 than 40??? It's easier to sell.

Getting the speaker at 2 ohm's will be the hardest part of it all I would imagine.

Posted

I purchased an 01 UL this week in near perfect condition, minus the blown ML sub. I asked my authorized dealer for recommendations on an aftermarket replacement. He directed me to a local audio shop in an attempt to save me some money. The owner of the shop wanted to make sure he installed a compatible aftermarket sub, therefore, he made a trip down to the dealer and had a meeting with one of the lead techs. After discussing all of the details with the Lexus Tech, here is what they decided on, Crossfire Sub

I am not an audiophile and am not extremely educated on the ML system. However, the local stereo shop was able to install the mentioned sub with very minor modifications and it sounds incredible, at least to me. Total cost, including install, was $175.

I hope this assists other 400/430 owners with the same problem. It might not be perfect solution based on pure technical specs, but it has worked well for me.

Posted

RMS stands for ROOT MEANS SQUARED.. In the speaker world in summary it means what power your sub woofer can handle on an average basis.. If you have a thousand watt amp and you only have a 40 RMS rated woofer, you are most likely going to blow that woofer. A 40 Watt woofer will be able to handle peaks of more that 40 watts but not sustained. (Say up to 100 Watts)

To solver your problem you need to know how much power your system is supplying to your sub.. If you have the Mark Levinson system, I believe it will be around 100 Watts. If you get a woofer that is rated at a Higher wattage (say 400 watts) then your amplifier will not have enough power to push the woofer.

Impedence is a big factor. If the woofer you take out is 2 Ohms then you should replace it with a two ohm. You can use a 4 ohm but then you have just turned your 100 watt amp into a 50 watt amp (performance wise). Not all amps can handle 2 ohm loads so don't apply the rule of the reverse. If you have a 100 watt amplifier and you took out a 4 ohm speaker.. Then if you replace it with a 2 ohm woofer my amp will perform like a 200 watt amp.. It will perform but may overheat and shut down..

Make sure you observe Polarity of the wires when reconnecting the wires to your new subwoofer. If you get these backwards you will be out of phase with the rest of the system and you will have a dramatic loss of BASS..

I have read on earlier posts that Pioneer makes a good replacement. Someone also posted the procedure on how they replaced the woofer from the back deck.

You mentioned that you removed the cone, I assume the you are referring to the dust dome cap in the center. That is there to prevent dust and dirt from getting into the voice coil. With that removed your speaker will not last as long.

I will be replacing mine this spring.

GOOD LUCK


Posted
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about cardomain.com. Were the connections easy to install?

Yes, just soldered on stock connector.

no rms means; root mean square, it is a mathimatical function of the average peak power vs. the absolute peak power

that the drivers coil and suspension can handle before failure...

to put it into car terms, it is somewhat like saying your ls rms speed is say, 90 mph for a sustained time before engine failure,

if that makes sense...

in an amplifier rms is obtained by multiplying the absolute peak before full scale distortion by .707...

hence if your amp can has a peak power output of 1 volt( which equals +4 dbu peak to peak) than your rms would be 1 volt

X .707...

this is how the stereo shops pray on ignorance...beacuse stating the wattage of circuit really doesnt tell us anything except how much work the amp has performed, not what its capable of...

so when a shop says 1200 watts!!! thats almost ALWAYS the peak power handling of the system before failure, not in any way indicative of what you could expect on a regular basis...

Posted

also you guys need to realize that it is a FREE AIR setup with the stock speaker

you need to make sure that the sub is a free air subwoofer, or the sound, and life will be shortened

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Lately, my stock sub has been making this horrible sound to which I can't stand listening to music. Its time I need to get it replaced. If I am correct, the stock sub is 8" and shouldn't produce more than 40 RMS, right? I went down to circuit city and best buy and they had nothing for stock replacement. Is there any store online where I can buy a replacement?

I have a 90 ls 400 that needed a sub replacement as well. The dealer has two options, the Nakamichi or Pioneer subs, both pretty expensive, 370 amd 260 respectively. I talked to local installers. The first said he could throw in a "Kicker" for 150 bucks, but he really had no concern about ohms or enclosure space. The second installer said I would be better off getting a factory component or he would build an enclosure for one of his own subs. He said his experience with the trunk space and the resistance requirements of the ls 400 system have never been very good. He said he would be more than happy to take my money and install something that didn't sound quite right, but he thought the best bet was still a factory component.

Posted
Hi,

I couldnt find an equivalent sub anywhere. So i took my sub to a repair shop and they quoted me $80 for re-coning.

I didn't want to spend that much so I bought a 8 inch sub off craigslist for 10 bucks and removed its cone and am now going to install it into the OEM myself.

Wish me luck...

GOOD LUCK MY FRIEND!!!! ;)

Posted
Lately, my stock sub has been making this horrible sound to which I can't stand listening to music. Its time I need to get it replaced. If I am correct, the stock sub is 8" and shouldn't produce more than 40 RMS, right? I went down to circuit city and best buy and they had nothing for stock replacement. Is there any store online where I can buy a replacement?

I have a 90 ls 400 that needed a sub replacement as well. The dealer has two options, the Nakamichi or Pioneer subs, both pretty expensive, 370 amd 260 respectively. I talked to local installers. The first said he could throw in a "Kicker" for 150 bucks, but he really had no concern about ohms or enclosure space. The second installer said I would be better off getting a factory component or he would build an enclosure for one of his own subs. He said his experience with the trunk space and the resistance requirements of the ls 400 system have never been very good. He said he would be more than happy to take my money and install something that didn't sound quite right, but he thought the best bet was still a factory component.

HERE IS A LINK THAT MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU IN YOUR DECISION:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html

<--HOW TO REPLACE SUBWOOFER...INCLUDES LINK TO THE SUBWOOFER YOU CAN BUY...IT'S ONLY ABOUT $70 FROM CRUTCHFIELD!

YOU CAN ALSO CALLED CRUTCHFIELD UP AND TALK TO ONE OF THEIR ADVISORS FOR FREE!

I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU A LITTLE BIT!

  • 4 weeks later...

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