1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15

[yakev724]

Fast instructions (10-15 minutes to swap locking mechanism or 20-25 minutes to install $15 alternative)

You need: two flat screwdrivers, short philips, torx30, 10mm. (drill and soldering iron to install alternative)

1. Remove door panel http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288373

2. Make sure that glass is up.

3. Remove 4 torx30 screws (three on the side and one inside) that hold locking mechanism

4. Unlatch small plastic clip (red circles on picture #1 from the post #73)

5. Remove one 10mm bolt (under “inside” torx bolt) that holds vertical glass rail (yellow circle picture #1 from the post #73)

6. Look up, toward external door handle through large opening in the door from inside. You should see to rods attached with plastic clips to the door handle. Undo it. (picture #6 from the post #73)

Locking mechanism is ready to come out.

You should be ready to understand what is on the pictures in the post #4 now.

[saikaiting]

gonna try tihs again tonight, thanks guys, will let u know how it goes.

:)

[lmnop]

I did this over the weekend... It was a little more difficult than I hoped, but i got it done w/o ever having taken a door panel off of a car, or soldered before. One of the earlier links was broken so this is the actuator I used:

Generic Actuator

I ordered 3 just in case (I'm doing 2 doors), and tested them all with a weak 12v battery...all worked fine (though obviously really weakly w/ a small battery).

Half of my problem, was just not understanding what I was reading here... looking back, everything makes pretty solid sense. So after I figured out I needed to take the entire locking mechanism off (but not out) it got a little easier. Here is a picture of the old actuator and locking mechanism squeezed as far out as I can get it (I loosened the window guide rail to get it this far but didn't take it or the window out).

I put a red dot in the picture to show where I drilled the hole to attach the metal rod aka linkage... however, I used a piece of copper rod that I bought at Home Depot b/c it was a bit softer and easier to work with (but not too soft obviously). Once I drilled my hole I bent my rod in and bent it out the other end (like the original wire is bent above it) and followed it out the same line as the original wire and casing. Then I reattached the entire locking mechanism/old actuator w/ new rod attached... had to be pretty careful here.

From there you can see that I attached my new actuator in the big access hole with 2 of the brackets... pretty snug fit.

This one shows it a little bit closer, and where I soldered the new actuator wires into... the ones I tapped into were blue with a black stripe and blue with a red stripe. You can just mess with which one is on which wire by testing it until it is in sync with your other locks.

The only think i'm worried about is that the new actuator has about double the throw (movement) than the old actuator arm needed... did anyone do anything to adjust for this... I had a few ideas in mind, but i wanted to see what everyone else did (if anything).

Thanks to everyone who posted before with instructions, I really appreciate your help, this would have cost me like $1400 to do both doors if I did it at the Lexus dealership in LA... amazing.

Now, for the front, driver side door :).

[code58]

I did this over the weekend... It was a little more difficult than I hoped, but i got it done w/o ever having taken a door panel off of a car, or soldered before. One of the earlier links was broken so this is the actuator I used:

Generic Actuator

I ordered 3 just in case (I'm doing 2 doors), and tested them all with a weak 12v battery...all worked fine (though obviously really weakly w/ a small battery).

Half of my problem, was just not understanding what I was reading here... looking back, everything makes pretty solid sense. So after I figured out I needed to take the entire locking mechanism off (but not out) it got a little easier. Here is a picture of the old actuator and locking mechanism squeezed as far out as I can get it (I loosened the window guide rail to get it this far but didn't take it or the window out).

I put a red dot in the picture to show where I drilled the hole to attach the metal rod aka linkage... however, I used a piece of copper rod that I bought at Home Depot b/c it was a bit softer and easier to work with (but not too soft obviously). Once I drilled my hole I bent my rod in and bent it out the other end (like the original wire is bent above it) and followed it out the same line as the original wire and casing. Then I reattached the entire locking mechanism/old actuator w/ new rod attached... had to be pretty careful here.

From there you can see that I attached my new actuator in the big access hole with 2 of the brackets... pretty snug fit.

This one shows it a little bit closer, and where I soldered the new actuator wires into... the ones I tapped into were blue with a black stripe and blue with a red stripe. You can just mess with which one is on which wire by testing it until it is in sync with your other locks.

The only think i'm worried about is that the new actuator has about double the throw (movement) than the old actuator arm needed... did anyone do anything to adjust for this... I had a few ideas in mind, but i wanted to see what everyone else did (if anything).

Thanks to everyone who posted before with instructions, I really appreciate your help, this would have cost me like $1400 to do both doors if I did it at the Lexus dealership in LA... amazing.

Now, for the front, driver side door :).

lmnop- In looking at your pictures I believe you mounted it in a totally different place than most people mounted them. I'm sorry I didn't take any pictures when I did all 4 doors on my DIL's RX about 2 1/2-3 years ago. If you look on post #4 on page 1 of this thread, on the picture posted, the right lower picture shows the way most have attached the actuator. In that picture you see a white arm that he has attached the rod to. The actuator then sits down in the lower part of the door with the arm going up at about an 80 degree angle to the rear on the front door and about a 50 degree angle to the rear on the rear door. My actuators were completely hidden down in the door. The white arm that you see in the mentioned picture even had an unused existing hole which was perfect for the "Z" in the rod to fit into. The rear door had the same unused hole in the arm that the front door has. It virtually looks factory because I used the existing factory bracket that was on the Ford actuators that I used. Some of them have said that their lock assemblies didn't have that arm but mine did. It is on the lock assy. facing the inside of the car right where you want it. I wouldn't worry about the added throw of the new actuators, the way they work is the motor isn't powerful enough to do any harm, it just stops short of it's capability. The reason it has so much longer throw than the original is where you drilled the hole, very short coupled! Drilling in that arm you didn't have a choice. Look for the white arm facing inward with the hole like the picture, maybe you'll luck out! Good Luck!

[lmnop]

code58- yeah, i wasn't too comfortable putting it in the door b/c of the window (I'm sure there is plenty of room though) and I liked having easy access to the actuator, so I figured that was the best place to put it. I found that rubber band bound arm, but from what I remember the hole had an open side that i was afraid the arm might slip out of.

Anyway, after taking apart the driver side front door last night, I think I'm going to have to attach it at the location you're describing this time.... it is really tight around the old actuator with the door lock/handle arms, window guide etc all butted up in there.

[magicgsm]

Thank you all, great help guys, bravo, great job!!! Just lost my driver side actuator(great time to brake it, right in the middle of winter), followed your postings and ordered aftermarket one. Will install as soon as weather get's a bit warmer. Thanks once again!!!

[code58]

code58- yeah, i wasn't too comfortable putting it in the door b/c of the window (I'm sure there is plenty of room though) and I liked having easy access to the actuator, so I figured that was the best place to put it. I found that rubber band bound arm, but from what I remember the hole had an open side that i was afraid the arm might slip out of.

Anyway, after taking apart the driver side front door last night, I think I'm going to have to attach it at the location you're describing this time.... it is really tight around the old actuator with the door lock/handle arms, window guide etc all butted up in there.

lmnop- It sounds to me as though you have the type of arm that some have spoken of with the open slot rather than an unused hole like I had on both front and rear locks. As far as room, there is actually room in both front and rear doors. Nothing wrong with what you did, especially if you want easy access to the actuator. I had just never seen it done that way before. Let us know if you have the open slot in the white nylon arm rather than the hole. Since I have never seen one of the locks with the open hole, I would love it if someone would post a picture of it. I'm wondering if it is anything like some of the rod holes that I have seen over the years that are a quick way to simply "snap" the rod in from the side rather than having to "thread" the Z through the hole. They do have a molded tab that spring locks the rod in.

[lmnop]

code58, here are two pictures of the open arm... think it is safe to put it through that?

[code58]

code58, here are two pictures of the open arm... think it is safe to put it through that?

lmnop- I don't know what to say- Lenore said he put it through that and used a paper clip somehow to secure it. Is there enough meat to drill above or below that open slot? I can't believe the # of different configurations. If you'll notice, the pictures on the 1st. page of this thread have it through what looks like the same slot, but with it enclosed. ???? My DIL's RX has these beautiful arms with the nice round holes at the end that were unused. Now I feel bad that I thought maybe some of you were missing the arms with the holes because they are on the opposite side of the lock from where the little wires from the door controls are. Dirty pool I'd say. I had to blaze my own trail when I did them but I had the advantage of ideal arms w/holes to work with. I'm sure you could use the slot- just drill 2- 1/16in. holes above and below the slot and to the side a little and use a heavy paper clip like Lenore, to close that opening so that the rod can't come out. Good Luck!

[RCNV]

anyone has done this repair on the front door recently?

[lenore]

code58, here are two pictures of the open arm... think it is safe to put it through that?

lmnop- I don't know what to say- Lenore said he put it through that and used a paper clip somehow to secure it. Is there enough meat to drill above or below that open slot? I can't believe the # of different configurations. If you'll notice, the pictures on the 1st. page of this thread have it through what looks like the same slot, but with it enclosed. ???? My DIL's RX has these beautiful arms with the nice round holes at the end that were unused. Now I feel bad that I thought maybe some of you were missing the arms with the holes because they are on the opposite side of the lock from where the little wires from the door controls are. Dirty pool I'd say. I had to blaze my own trail when I did them but I had the advantage of ideal arms w/holes to work with. I'm sure you could use the slot- just drill 2- 1/16in. holes above and below the slot and to the side a little and use a heavy paper clip like Lenore, to close that opening so that the rod can't come out. Good Luck!

I was able to drill a very small hole....The paper clip was the only material that would be firm and fit...sorry no pictures.

[lmnop]

I actually ended up doing a much simpler fix on the front door... it could be done on any of the doors (assuming the back door panels leave as much room as the front door panels). I attached the new actuator to the door lock w/in the handle... so you don't have to get into the door very deep, just take off the panel.

Basically, i just took a thinner rod/wire (than is included) and wrapped one end into loops that piled below each other (by wrapping it around a pair needle nosed pliers). Basically I created a small cylinder on one end that i could slip the metal connector at the end of the old actuator's wire into (there is a half cm of extra arm sticking out the bottom of the lock... when viewing it from the back side). My cylinder was big enough that it doesn't have enough room to fall off the extra half cm of arm... i should probably take my door panel off and take a picture of this connection as my description isn't doing it justice.

I ran that wire from the back of the handle to the new actuator (i used a little bike brake cable housing to protect it), which i positioned to make sure that the panel would go back on.

Anyway, here is the picture of it:

Basically, this is just flipping the same manual lock switch that you see when the door panel is on. No idea how long it will work for, 2 weeks so far so good.

[code58]

I actually ended up doing a much simpler fix on the front door... it could be done on any of the doors (assuming the back door panels leave as much room as the front door panels). I attached the new actuator to the door lock w/in the handle... so you don't have to get into the door very deep, just take off the panel.

Basically, i just took a thinner rod/wire (than is included) and wrapped one end into loops that piled below each other (by wrapping it around a pair needle nosed pliers). Basically I created a small cylinder on one end that i could slip the metal connector at the end of the old actuator's wire into (there is a half cm of extra arm sticking out the bottom of the lock... when viewing it from the back side). My cylinder was big enough that it doesn't have enough room to fall off the extra half cm of arm... i should probably take my door panel off and take a picture of this connection as my description isn't doing it justice.

I ran that wire from the back of the handle to the new actuator (i used a little bike brake cable housing to protect it), which i positioned to make sure that the panel would go back on.

Anyway, here is the picture of it:

Basically, this is just flipping the same manual lock switch that you see when the door panel is on. No idea how long it will work for, 2 weeks so far so good.

That's clever Imnop, I never thought about operating the lock up there. I would say no one else has either, at least I haven't seen anyone post who has done it that way. Kudo's to Ya!

[artbuc]

I actually ended up doing a much simpler fix on the front door... it could be done on any of the doors (assuming the back door panels leave as much room as the front door panels). I attached the new actuator to the door lock w/in the handle... so you don't have to get into the door very deep, just take off the panel.

Basically, i just took a thinner rod/wire (than is included) and wrapped one end into loops that piled below each other (by wrapping it around a pair needle nosed pliers). Basically I created a small cylinder on one end that i could slip the metal connector at the end of the old actuator's wire into (there is a half cm of extra arm sticking out the bottom of the lock... when viewing it from the back side). My cylinder was big enough that it doesn't have enough room to fall off the extra half cm of arm... i should probably take my door panel off and take a picture of this connection as my description isn't doing it justice.

I ran that wire from the back of the handle to the new actuator (i used a little bike brake cable housing to protect it), which i positioned to make sure that the panel would go back on.

Anyway, here is the picture of it:

Basically, this is just flipping the same manual lock switch that you see when the door panel is on. No idea how long it will work for, 2 weeks so far so good.

Nice work! I wish I would have thought of that!!

[deus85]

I am so close but still too far, have the inside cover open and I can see the inside now, but just don't understand or say don't trust myself to un-screw the original actuator and hook up the new one, specially the rod alligntment, size, etc, Is any of you are in Houston, TX area and help me out, I will pay you or buy you a decent meal or whatever, I hate to put it all back without fixing it. thanks

P.S. please reply to my email: getsw@alltel.net

To bad you're not in the So. Cal. area, I would be happy to do it free for you. If you have any mechanical aptitude, once you've done it once you'll see how easy it is and you could come close to doing it with your eyes closed the second time. I would actually use the "dog knot" on the actuator end and use a modified "Z" (2- 90 degrees) on the other end where it attaches to the original actuator. With the door panel off, it shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to do the actual hook up once you have done 1 and have a clear understanding of what to do (and how easy it is).

Hey Code58,

I have the same problem with my lock. I've been reading the thread, and its pretty confusing to me. Do you think you could help me with it if I bring my car over, or unless you want to come over to my home. I am off Euclid/405. Thanks

[code58]

Hey Code58,

I have the same problem with my lock. I've been reading the thread, and its pretty confusing to me. Do you think you could help me with it if I bring my car over, or unless you want to come over to my home. I am off Euclid/405. Thanks

I would be happy to help you with it. I tried to send you a PM and it wouldn't let me. I don't know if it's because you don't have enough posts or if you have to disable PM block. Give me an e-mail add. or ph.# to make contact.

Roger

[deus85]

Hey Code58,

I have the same problem with my lock. I've been reading the thread, and its pretty confusing to me. Do you think you could help me with it if I bring my car over, or unless you want to come over to my home. I am off Euclid/405. Thanks

I would be happy to help you with it. I tried to send you a PM and it wouldn't let me. I don't know if it's because you don't have enough posts or if you have to disable PM block. Give me an e-mail add. or ph.# to make contact.

Roger

Hi Roger,

I tried IMing/messaging you too but it won't let me. I have no idea what's up with it.

My email is deus85@gmail.com Thanks

[code58]

I actually ended up doing a much simpler fix on the front door... it could be done on any of the doors (assuming the back door panels leave as much room as the front door panels). I attached the new actuator to the door lock w/in the handle... so you don't have to get into the door very deep, just take off the panel.

Basically, i just took a thinner rod/wire (than is included) and wrapped one end into loops that piled below each other (by wrapping it around a pair needle nosed pliers). Basically I created a small cylinder on one end that i could slip the metal connector at the end of the old actuator's wire into (there is a half cm of extra arm sticking out the bottom of the lock... when viewing it from the back side). My cylinder was big enough that it doesn't have enough room to fall off the extra half cm of arm... i should probably take my door panel off and take a picture of this connection as my description isn't doing it justice.

I ran that wire from the back of the handle to the new actuator (i used a little bike brake cable housing to protect it), which i positioned to make sure that the panel would go back on.

Anyway, here is the picture of it:

Basically, this is just flipping the same manual lock switch that you see when the door panel is on. No idea how long it will work for, 2 weeks so far so good.

I installed the L. front door piggy back actuator for deus85 yesterday. He lives close to me so it worked out and was a learning experience for both of us. Thanks to lmnop for putting us in the right direction. I used the rod that comes with the actuator kit and just flattened the end after I had cut it to proper length. I then drilled a 9/64 hole in the end (the size of the shaft that lmnop formed the small cylinder for). I drilled a 5/32 hole through the 2 walls of the plastic handle housing and used a very small flat file to put a slot for the flattened end of the rod through without enlarging the holes for the rod. Took a couple of minor bends to line the rod up with the male protrusion on the end of the factory lock cable. If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion. I was able to use just the single mount strip that comes with the kit to mount the actuator in the correct place. I twisted a wire pair (use aircraft safety wire pliers) and went forward and connected to the wires in the factory loom on the inside of the door high and maybe a foot back from the front of the door. It's very easy to tap in there and since it's totally dry there (I use 3M 90 degree taps) it worked out well. Didn't have to disassemble any thing in the door. This is the simplest of all lock piggy-back repairs. I wish I had thought of it when I did my DIL's- would have saved me a lot of work. Maybe deus85 will post pictures- he took quite a few and you should be able to see exactly what we did on the back side. Thanks again lmnop for an excellent contribution to this forum that I think will aid a lot of people. Roger

[lmnop]

Hey code58 & deus85,

Glad to know that I could help. This forum gave me the confidence and insight that I needed to take a stab at this in the first place (since I've done little to no car repair in the past). It might have taken me a few hours over the course of a few nights, but I definitely enjoyed the mechanical problem solving that went into this and the sense of accomplishment I get every time I lock and unlock my doors remotely. Also, I feel a bit of civic responsibility to contribute back what I learned (since I learned so much from everyone else here). Thanks again for everyone's help, no way I would have been able to do this without it.

I think I might be ready to take on the next issue with my RX 300... the weird moaning noise that happens when I turn my steering wheel (used to happen when it was cold outside, now it happens all the time...anyone have a fix for this :) ?).

[lenore]

you both did a great job, satisfaction of doing it yourself, and Code58 you as usual are awlsome. Nice writeup Code58, another solution to the ongoing failures.

[deus85]

I installed the L. front door piggy back actuator for deus85 yesterday. He lives close to me so it worked out and was a learning experience for both of us. Thanks to lmnop for putting us in the right direction. I used the rod that comes with the actuator kit and just flattened the end after I had cut it to proper length. I then drilled a 9/64 hole in the end (the size of the shaft that lmnop formed the small cylinder for). I drilled a 5/32 hole through the 2 walls of the plastic handle housing and used a very small flat file to put a slot for the flattened end of the rod through without enlarging the holes for the rod. Took a couple of minor bends to line the rod up with the male protrusion on the end of the factory lock cable. If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion. I was able to use just the single mount strip that comes with the kit to mount the actuator in the correct place. I twisted a wire pair (use aircraft safety wire pliers) and went forward and connected to the wires in the factory loom on the inside of the door high and maybe a foot back from the front of the door. It's very easy to tap in there and since it's totally dry there (I use 3M 90 degree taps) it worked out well. Didn't have to disassemble any thing in the door. This is the simplest of all lock piggy-back repairs. I wish I had thought of it when I did my DIL's- would have saved me a lot of work. Maybe deus85 will post pictures- he took quite a few and you should be able to see exactly what we did on the back side. Thanks again lmnop for an excellent contribution to this forum that I think will aid a lot of people. Roger

Here are the pics.

The first pic shows the close-up of the attachment site of the rod to the lock lever.

The second pic shows the overview of the front side of the lock lever and where the rod was placed.

The third pic shows where the actuator was placed relative to the lock lever.

Finally, the last pic shows the taps that were placed onto the two wires.

Roger did an amazing job!

[artbuc]

I installed the L. front door piggy back actuator for deus85 yesterday. He lives close to me so it worked out and was a learning experience for both of us. Thanks to lmnop for putting us in the right direction. I used the rod that comes with the actuator kit and just flattened the end after I had cut it to proper length. I then drilled a 9/64 hole in the end (the size of the shaft that lmnop formed the small cylinder for). I drilled a 5/32 hole through the 2 walls of the plastic handle housing and used a very small flat file to put a slot for the flattened end of the rod through without enlarging the holes for the rod. Took a couple of minor bends to line the rod up with the male protrusion on the end of the factory lock cable. If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion. I was able to use just the single mount strip that comes with the kit to mount the actuator in the correct place. I twisted a wire pair (use aircraft safety wire pliers) and went forward and connected to the wires in the factory loom on the inside of the door high and maybe a foot back from the front of the door. It's very easy to tap in there and since it's totally dry there (I use 3M 90 degree taps) it worked out well. Didn't have to disassemble any thing in the door. This is the simplest of all lock piggy-back repairs. I wish I had thought of it when I did my DIL's- would have saved me a lot of work. Maybe deus85 will post pictures- he took quite a few and you should be able to see exactly what we did on the back side. Thanks again lmnop for an excellent contribution to this forum that I think will aid a lot of people. Roger

Here are the pics.

The first pic shows the close-up of the attachment site of the rod to the lock lever.

The second pic shows the overview of the front side of the lock lever and where the rod was placed.

The third pic shows where the actuator was placed relative to the lock lever.

Finally, the last pic shows the taps that were placed onto the two wires.

Roger did an amazing job!

Thank-you for the great pictures. Roger, you should have been a brain surgeon! What is the black material you used to hold the wires against the door? Where did you get the wire connectors?

[code58]

I installed the L. front door piggy back actuator for deus85 yesterday. He lives close to me so it worked out and was a learning experience for both of us. Thanks to lmnop for putting us in the right direction. I used the rod that comes with the actuator kit and just flattened the end after I had cut it to proper length. I then drilled a 9/64 hole in the end (the size of the shaft that lmnop formed the small cylinder for). I drilled a 5/32 hole through the 2 walls of the plastic handle housing and used a very small flat file to put a slot for the flattened end of the rod through without enlarging the holes for the rod. Took a couple of minor bends to line the rod up with the male protrusion on the end of the factory lock cable. If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion. I was able to use just the single mount strip that comes with the kit to mount the actuator in the correct place. I twisted a wire pair (use aircraft safety wire pliers) and went forward and connected to the wires in the factory loom on the inside of the door high and maybe a foot back from the front of the door. It's very easy to tap in there and since it's totally dry there (I use 3M 90 degree taps) it worked out well. Didn't have to disassemble any thing in the door. This is the simplest of all lock piggy-back repairs. I wish I had thought of it when I did my DIL's- would have saved me a lot of work. Maybe deus85 will post pictures- he took quite a few and you should be able to see exactly what we did on the back side. Thanks again lmnop for an excellent contribution to this forum that I think will aid a lot of people. Roger

Here are the pics.

The first pic shows the close-up of the attachment site of the rod to the lock lever.

The second pic shows the overview of the front side of the lock lever and where the rod was placed.

The third pic shows where the actuator was placed relative to the lock lever.

Finally, the last pic shows the taps that were placed onto the two wires.

Roger did an amazing job!

Thank-you for the great pictures. Roger, you should have been a brain surgeon! What is the black material you used to hold the wires against the door? Where did you get the wire connectors?

Deus did the photography duty for which I am grateful because when I'm doing a project, I'm on a mission and seldom make it a priority to take pictures. Then always wish afterwards that I had because I am a very visual person and always want to see the pictures. I also am not highly computer skilled in the details and consequently have not learned the art of posting pictures and some of the other things I have long wished I had time to learn but haven't. Thanks again Deus, for taking and posting the pictures- all in all it was a community effort.

Artbuc- the connectors are 3M 90 degree taps that you should be able to obtain a lot of places. Any good electronic store would have them as well as any GOOD automotive supply store. That's the real deal, am not sure about Autozone and the like. We are fortunate in this area to have a couple of EXCELLENT electronic stores. (Adult candy stores) You use a male blade connector on the end of the actuator wires. This type of stuff is very readily available on the net if you don't feel like hunting locally for it. I use that type of connector when it's in a dry area and not too heavy a load (though I believe they are rated for a minimum of 10A and maybe 15A), because they are so easy to use. I used them sparingly when doing Code3 work. The black stuff is "Magic". It's actually "butyl tape", the same stuff that the edge of your inside door weather shield is attached with. You generally buy it at an automotive paint store (body shop supply) ands it has a million uses. I couldn't get along without it. If anyone is ever interested in using it though, PM me and I'll give you some tips you'll thank me for.

[artbuc]

If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion.

Roger, please elaborate. I'm not getting how you are keeping the flattened end of the actuator rod was popping off the shaft. Thanks.

[code58]

If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion.

Roger, please elaborate. I'm not getting how you are keeping the flattened end of the actuator rod was popping off the shaft. Thanks.

Artbuc- If you look at the pictures again you'll see (though the handle assy. is flipped over to take the picture, so it's upside down), that I had to keep the 2 holes for the rod to a minimum in size so that when it passed through there and was bent slightly (in 2 bends) upward to line up with the male stub that it fits on, that the 2 holes would be responsible for keeping enough upward pressure on the rod to keep it well attached to the male stub. Now that I have you thoroughly confused, as I said my preference would have definitely have been to have one of the small round push-on clips to hold the rod on the stub, but they are not easily obtained from any local hardware source that I am aware of. I think I know where I could get them but it would have cost me probably an hour total that I simply didn't have. If I had them, it makes it much easier because you then drill the passage 2 holes about 1/4 in. and don't have to worry about engineering the correct pressure up on the rod to keep it on the stub. Hope that explains it, if not PM me.