Interval With Synthetic

[camlex]

Hello,

I did search but nobody talked about Interval between oil change.

I learn that Mobil 1 is the best.

I have 194,000 on my 97 ES 300. Presently using Castrol Synthetic blend 5W30.

And changing oil every 4000 miles. Since i am driving a lot. and sick of changing oil.

If i switch to synthetic oil, How many miles i can drive between oil change?

Thanks in advance.

[mburnickas]

The very best way is to do an oil test and see what the outcome is. Since your engine is specific to your enviroment, fluids, heat,driving etc etc

I have been dealing with Terry at DA.

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/pages/1/index.htm

I have learned that there is no best. Since you need to find one that is good to you. Are you looking for longevity, price, lowest wear, etc.

I have started using LCD products. It has made my oil better then ever. The thing I am looking for is the best/lowest wear and the longest use...Hard thing to do so I need some help/options. This is where Terry comes in.

I do not want to turn this into an oil debate so I am leaving brands out.

[steviej]

I do not want to turn this into an oil debate so I am leaving brands out.

Neither does The Management!

steviej

[monarch]

The Owner FAQ's at lexus.com and toyota.com warn owners not to extend oil changes when using synthetic oil. Jason, owner of JPImportz has told us he had seen '97 on up ES engines like yours ruined by sludge when some owners extended oil change intervals after switching to Mobil 1

[Toysrme]

Mobil 1 5000/7500 I would change at 5000/7500.

Toyota v6's are very easy on oil & analysis on bobs show mobil to be an awesome fit to Toyota v6's in general. Many higher quality oils are doing 7500 miles & coming back with some life left in them.

Toyota v6's in general are just not that hard on oil.

The synthetics... Honestly I'd flush it, then do synthetic & drive 9,000 - 10,000 miles & send THAT off for analysis. Things like the mobil 1 synthetics are showing life left at 9,000m (Good UAO's & TBN). The last report of mobil 1 synthetic (EP) that I remember had analysis done at 10,000m, then 12,000m & had some life left, but they guy dumped it anyways.

So... 5000 / 7500 on a good oil, 10,000+ on synthetic.

The simple truth is that... None of us know crap!

You'll need to spend your $20-30 on oil analysis & let people that know stuff tell you when to change it!

[abrarcool]

but then there is also a possibility of oil leaks resulting from switching from regular oil to synthetic oil since sometimes it leads to oil seal failure

even though u have been using a blend of both oils there is a slight chance which can never be eliminated though i might be wrong

and also since these engines are succeptable to gelling or sludge

why take the chance of prolonging the duration between oil changes

i would rather make it shorter time duration between oil changes like 3000 miles

but then we are all just yapping about our opinions arent we

[SW03ES]

I absolutely agree, change the oil every 5k miles. Look, oil changes are cheap and they're easy. I run synthetic too, is it neccissary? No. Does it make a real difference? Probably not but I do it anyways. I still change the oil every 5k though and I drive 2300 miles a month. I mean, come on. Even if you had to do it every month, just pulling into a Jiffy Lube every 5k isn't a big deal. At 195k you've had fabulous service from your ES. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'd keep doing exactly what you've been doing those 195k miles, running standard oil and changing it every 5k.

[camlex]

Thanks,

I am very happy with car. I will continue with Castrol Synthetic Blend 5W30.

While talking with toyota service I learned, they are using same oil and requesting customers to change oil every 5000.

I am going to increase 1000 miles on oil changes.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[98es]

I've noticed that lexus dealerships (at least the 2 i've been to) do 5,000 mile intervals with regular dino oil. I had to specially request for them to print the sticker out for 3,000 miles, but am only really a stickler about it on the '98 because of the threat of sludge.

[mburnickas]

The simple truth is that... None of us know crap!

You'll need to spend your $20-30 on oil analysis & let people that know stuff tell you when to change it!

BINGO!!!!!

To this day I never figured that out. People send $200 to $600+ a month for a car but will not spend $20 to $30 on an oil test. But ha, we all do things in life that make use happy...

[camlex]

Hello,

Can someone explain me what oil test result will help me.?

Thanks,

[Toysrme]

All of them. They'll let you know a ton of things about your engine you wouldn't know otherwise.

The general condition of alot of points.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

is a good quick over-view. But there are a lot of things most places report on not on that list.

[monarch]

Of the dozen + Toyota owners I've become acquainted with over the years that drove over 400,000 miles without needing an engine overhaul, none spent time or money on oil analysis. They spent time and money on preventive maintenance so their engines would never suffer from excessive wear caused by running too hot, running with worn out filters, worn out spark plugs, etc. However, if you want a way of evaluating the running condition of your engine, the simple, no cost method is to simply keep track of your fuel economy. High and consistent fuel economy = an engine delivering peak power and lowest emissions. Deteriorating fuel economy = deteriorating power and emissions = some parts(s) are getting old or dirty and require attention (e.g. the oxygen sensor is getting lazy or the throttle plate is accumulating gummy deposits). In States that have annual or biannual tailpipe emission tests, the test results are also a good way of keeping track of the running condition of your engine. A Toyota engine with barely detectable levels of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide is an engine running at peak efficiency and is an engine in like new mechanical condition.

[camlex]

Thanks

[Lexusfreak]

Hello,

I did search but nobody talked about Interval between oil change.

I learn that Mobil 1 is the best.

I have 194,000 on my 97 ES 300. Presently using Castrol Synthetic blend 5W30.

And changing oil every 4000 miles. Since i am driving a lot. and sick of changing oil.

If i switch to synthetic oil, How many miles i can drive between oil change?

Thanks in advance.

Might want to consider Amsoil ASL 5W 30 synthetic.......when using their oil filters you can go 1 year or 25k miles between oil changes......however I am not comfortable going that long on my vehicles so I do it every 6 months so only 2 oil changes per year regardless of mileage. ;) For more info.....click the link below. I will be using it on my new 06 Subaru Forester XT Turbo as well. ;)

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

[mburnickas]

I absolutely agree, change the oil every 5k miles. Look, oil changes are cheap and they're easy. I run synthetic too, is it neccissary? No. Does it make a real difference? Probably not but I do it anyways. I still change the oil every 5k though and I drive 2300 miles a month. I mean, come on. Even if you had to do it every month, just pulling into a Jiffy Lube every 5k isn't a big deal. At 195k you've had fabulous service from your ES. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'd keep doing exactly what you've been doing those 195k miles, running standard oil and changing it every 5k.

Sw- Might want to watch this! LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1J7d2ssc3Y...9%2D4496%2Dad7c

[steviej]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1J7d2ssc3Y...9%2D4496%2Dad7c

I have always maintained "if you want it done right and you can do it yourself........then do it yourself"

steviej

[SW03ES]

mburn- nice LOL

[Lexusfreak]

Cool video! I never have, nor will I ever take any of my vehicles to one of these 'lube' joints. :chairshot:

[blake918]

Jiffy Lube..... ooops, we forgot to refill the car with oil, there goes your engine, that is if they even bother to change it in the first place! The District Rep was too funny! Anyone else notice the LS about 54 seconds in?:whistles: I hope it's not for a LOC member! LOL

[Toysrme]

I forget who it happened too, god love you if you ever run across this post, because I think it was an ES owner.

Took his car to jiffylube. They flush the brake fluid with Dexron III ATF.

Mornons LoL!

[Nunyabiz]

Well I have been using Amsoil series 2000 0w-30 with an Amsoil oil filter and changing the oil about once a year (12-14 months) which with me is only about 8,000-8,500 miles.

When I got the car (1999 ES300) it had regular petroleum based oil and OEM paper air filter that was just installed by Carmax.

I got about 25-26MPG Hwy & 18-20mpg city, my first oil change to amsoil 0w-30 and also changed the paper air filter to a K&N filter I got over 30MPG.

Just drove to Florida (Im in NC) this past weekend (July 29-30) and got 31.83mpg on my last tank with cruise control set to 72mph.

The Amsoil after 8,000 miles on it is in better condition than ANY petroleum based oil after just 500 miles.

Amsoil I dont mind going a year (8-9,000miles) on it....Mobil 1 I would probably change at 7,500.

My last oil change was about 10 months ago and checked oil just before trip, had not burned more than a tablespoon probably as it was still dead on the mark it was when I put it in, the oil also felt and looked very good.

I get an extra 2-3+MPG using this oil so it totally pays for itself, not to mention zero sludge possibility.

[mburnickas]

I agree and I personally think you are only “saved” with minimal sludge, note not zero, is their Series 2000 has a little better adds and more shear stable. You would / could have a better outcome (if you tested) using there cheaper oil and LC20. Based on my use of this product, it keeps amsoil from thickening and wear rates are better then any oil they make. I would also just run Mobil and save some money. Even use a dino with LC and I bet 100 to 1, it will outperform Amsoil or Mobil alone. After use Lc and Amsoil, Amsoil is good but not that good. Plus it is getting overpriced.

But as most know I am pro oil analysis. So unless you have some oil data (with a baseline), you are guessing out your wazoo.

[Nunyabiz]

I agree and I personally think you are only “saved” with minimal sludge, note not zero, is their Series 2000 has a little better adds and more shear stable. You would / could have a better outcome (if you tested) using there cheaper oil and LC20. Based on my use of this product, it keeps amsoil from thickening and wear rates are better then any oil they make. I would also just run Mobil and save some money. Even use a dino with LC and I bet 100 to 1, it will outperform Amsoil or Mobil alone. After use Lc and Amsoil, Amsoil is good but not that good. Plus it is getting overpriced.

But as most know I am pro oil analysis. So unless you have some oil data (with a baseline), you are guessing out your wazoo.

To each is own, Im perfectly happy with Amsoil series 2000 and changing the oil every 8000 miles or so, the extra 2-3+MPG easily makes up the difference.

When I got the car 4 years ago it had a small amount of sludge under the cover (just small amounts in the nooks & crannies, car was 3 years old when I bought it), I was watching the mechanics at Carmax when they checked and I took a good long look at it before buying the car.

Last year I checked again just to see, was virtually nothing the amsoil alone in 3 years of running it had not only not created ANY sludge it had actually cleaned most of what was there from the petroleum oil.

So if anything the Amsoil is cleaning the engine it certainly is not making anymore sludge.

Im sure LC20 is just fine and dandy used with Mobil 1.

But FACT is the Amsoil 2000 by itself and changed every 8000-9000 miles works great and I dont have to be a "pro oil analysis" to figure that out.

The car runs better, it gets 2-3+mpg more, and in 3 years of running the Amsoil it has actually CLEANED my engine not sludged it and the only "analysis" i needed was to open my eyes and look...LOL

[mburnickas]

Unless you removed the valve covers both times, you are not seeing 60% of the real results here. The clues are in the oil pan, puck-up screen and oil tests. 100 to 1 your TBN of S2000 is low with these little miles, viscosity is high if not in next grade, OXD and NOX are normal and wears are average at best. I could/can get same numbers with a group3 oil or a dino with $2 of LC20 (with 50 to 100% less wear). Amsoil is good on extended drain but wear results on yours and my engine could/can be drastically reduced using other methods, not Amsoil 100%.

I have used Amsoil for 15 years and every oil they make on gas and diesel engines (and motorcycles); a long time here. Even have there Series 3000 in my tractor and it is good but not worth the money. I even was a dealer (6 years) but you look for better products out there. If you are waiting to have Amsoil clean, you will be waiting a LONG time. The ester count is too low to do anything. It prevents sludge etc, not cleans. That is the design function of the oil. It prevents sludge (with adds etc) and adds other thing. A better selection would be to clean, still low, would be a HDEO; but, it will not clean per say. You need a 100% all ester base, LC20 or tear down and use something like a Reliable hydrocarbon solvents –Cyclohexanes, Kerosenes or Heavy aliphatic napthenes,

Example: Here is a family car that has Amsoil 100% synthetic for 5+ years using a OLM; I take care of. It was all black inside the complete time over 41,000 miles using Amsoil oil and filters! Amsoil does not clean. It is starting to get clean in this pix due to using Auto-RX, not Amsoil.

I have done too many tests (on various engines) and have seen my own valve covers. Was it clean, sure but not "CLEAN". I thought like you did, until I tried LC20 last year based on Dyson Analysis comments.I am now tring Auto-RX to clean and LC20 to prevent other things. After 100 miles using LC20 in Amsoil, it was “tar black” on my ES (and other engines). What does that mean? It (LC) is cleaning and removing carbon, sludge etc that Amsoil or any synthetic could not. Redline has a higher ester base then Amsoil; that would perform better in this area; but you will need about 20K miles to do what LC could do in 2,000 miles. If it [Redline or Amsoil] did anything at all.

I am/was doing 10 to 12K drains and Amsoil worked. But again there oil is getting to high priced along with the EAO filters. And the tests showed it could get better using other oils and adds along with low price methods.

Here are some pix to what looked very good/clean using Amsoil all the time; before LC20 and Auto-rx. Then I added LC20 and the Amsoil was black (not shown). Now using Auto-Rx and the oil went in clear on dipstick! after 550 miles it look like brown honey! I will take some pix tonight of the oil. The car would last WELL over my use but other items I use make the engine smoother, more power and more MPG (FP60).

Again, if you have done some oils tests you would think differently on Amosil oils. I like their products, as you but they are not worth $5 to $8 dealer cost per qt. I can do 2 oil changes using Mobil 1 then (1) Amsoil and still have better numbers all around/ Nevermind the shipping price either. If you used LC20 you WOULD reduce your wear #’s more then Amsoil could have dream. These are from results, not speculation. If you look at Amsoils UOA, you will see it is good but Mobil, Redline etc can keep up with them, and at lower prices. Something to think about if not FYI. :D