Nunyabiz

I have been using 0w-30 series 2000 Amsoil and went from 25-27Mpg (car had fresh change of petroleum oil when I bought it) up to over 30mpg using Amsoil. I just went on a long trip last weekend, NC to Miami, this oil has been in car about 10+ months and after trip about 8,000 miles and I got 31.83mpg on my last tank. So Im getting 5-6mpg more compared to petroleum oil, although that does include changing the OEM paper air filter to a K&N which probably also helped a bit. 1999 ES300

To each is own, Im perfectly happy with Amsoil series 2000 and changing the oil every 8000 miles or so, the extra 2-3+MPG easily makes up the difference. When I got the car 4 years ago it had a small amount of sludge under the cover (just small amounts in the nooks & crannies, car was 3 years old when I bought it), I was watching the mechanics at Carmax when they checked and I took a good long look at it before buying the car. Last year I checked again just to see, was virtually nothing the amsoil alone in 3 years of running it had not only not created ANY sludge it had actually cleaned most of what was there from the petroleum oil. So if anything the Amsoil is cleaning the engine it certainly is not making anymore sludge. Im sure LC20 is just fine and dandy used with Mobil 1. But FACT is the Amsoil 2000 by itself and changed every 8000-9000 miles works great and I dont have to be a "pro oil analysis" to figure that out. The car runs better, it gets 2-3+mpg more, and in 3 years of running the Amsoil it has actually CLEANED my engine not sludged it and the only "analysis" i needed was to open my eyes and look...LOL

Well I have been using Amsoil series 2000 0w-30 with an Amsoil oil filter and changing the oil about once a year (12-14 months) which with me is only about 8,000-8,500 miles. When I got the car (1999 ES300) it had regular petroleum based oil and OEM paper air filter that was just installed by Carmax. I got about 25-26MPG Hwy & 18-20mpg city, my first oil change to amsoil 0w-30 and also changed the paper air filter to a K&N filter I got over 30MPG. Just drove to Florida (Im in NC) this past weekend (July 29-30) and got 31.83mpg on my last tank with cruise control set to 72mph. The Amsoil after 8,000 miles on it is in better condition than ANY petroleum based oil after just 500 miles. Amsoil I dont mind going a year (8-9,000miles) on it....Mobil 1 I would probably change at 7,500. My last oil change was about 10 months ago and checked oil just before trip, had not burned more than a tablespoon probably as it was still dead on the mark it was when I put it in, the oil also felt and looked very good. I get an extra 2-3+MPG using this oil so it totally pays for itself, not to mention zero sludge possibility.

I will still put my old 27 year old Porsche flat 6 up against ANY 6 banger on the road. 3.6L dyno'd 449Hp @5700rpm(96octane)~430fpt 0-60~3.9sec (with me driving) taken to track 3X back in 1990 right after I had it rebuilt (which was day after I bought it) pulled 12.2/115 1/4mile. That is V10 viper competition which I beat btw by 2/10ths B) Bought the car ($14K) with 142K miles on the 3.3L was still running decent but slightly tired put $1K a month into it for 6 months, so for 20K I had a virtually brand new rocketship with a 3.6L, K27 Hybrid hiflow Turbo 1.0 bar of boost, 964Cams, 8.0:1 compression, 3.2 Carrera intake, ported polished, 55lb injectors, full bay 800ci intercooler, Borla exhaust, few other odds N ends. I could have just as easily bumped the Hp to over 575hp If I wanted to do away with my AC put in a different flywheel couple other odds N ends. But I gotta have my AC and right now the car has little over 88,000 miles and running strong as an Ox get between 18-22mpg, I haven't done a thing to the car since 1990 but brakes and tires and oil changes. Very reliable This 3.6L is really nothing but an typeII upgrade from the older 4th gen engine to basically a 7th gen. Giving my 1977 Turbo 1990+ power. Porsche> Honda Vtec any day of the week, not even in the same league. The new TL is about comparable to the Mazda RX8. From what Iv seen the Nissan 350Z pretty easily beats any Honda Vtec. If im not mistaken the times you listed for that TL is only for the "A-Spec" version which I believe is $5200 more tacked on, somewhere around $40,000+ that's pretty ridiculous, be much better off getting a Lexus and plop a Turbo on it for about the same price and walk all over that Acura PLUS be driving in quieter better built car to boot. http://motortrend.com/roadtests/coupe/112_...hree/index.html As far as AWD, Porsche still beats anything on the road. Of course you will pay out your nose for a C4 Porsche though, or the new 450Hp Chyenne SUV. Here is a Lexus that will smoke any Acura/Honda on the road, few modifications of course (TwinTurbo 2jz-gte engine) http://www.turbolexus.com/ If you dont mind some rather long download times there are some decent little homemade videos here http://www.racingflix.com/browsevideos.asp?p=5 One showing the above Lexus literally walking the dog on 2 RX7s and Viper500 on the hwy like they are standing still. (Lexus Catchup) Nothing bad about Honda/Acura TLs or S2000 etc. Vtecs, BUT you seem to somehow think they are the fastest best made cars on the road, in that context they are not even close. That old 1998 Toyota Supra TT would walk all over that Acura TL, you would see nothing but tail lights. :P

This is my "sporty" car that I have owned for about 14 years now. http://www.europeanlocators.com/sa-lr.html Except mine is British racing green with a tan leather interior. Its a 1977 Porsche 930 with rebuilt engine is now 3.6L with intercooler oversized K27 turbo, 187Mph top end 0-60~3.9sec 450Hp. Haven't met a car on the road in 14 years that can touch it so far, including 2 Vipers and a supercharged Vette that i left in the dust. Acura TL I wouldn't have to take it out of 2nd gear. You can pick up a nice older Porsche like this for 20K. Fast and realiable

I think the whole used car situation all boils down to management of the various places, some good some bad. Myself I was most impressed with "Carmax" believe it or not. We got our 1999 ES300 from them for $1500 less than Blue Book (17K). Was the Coach edition with every option. On the sheet detailing what they had done to the car was over $2000 worth of stuff, $520 for Keys, (we got 2 master, 2 Valet, 1wallet). $512 in V rated Tires, rear bumper was painted (was perfect job I could not tell at all) New battery, all new belts, all fluids replaced, did a valve train inspection to check for sludge (none found), all 4 disc brakes done, plus various small scratches (all classic shopping cart type nothing bad at all) were repaired although they were just the usual "touchup paint" method, was about 7-8 small little scratches done like that which I basically expect with a used car. All N All for a 5+ year old car was in like new condition. With Carmax you get 5 full working days to drive the car long and hard as you like, take it anywhere you want to have it checked and if after that 5 days you dont want it, just take it back and does not cost you a penny and no questions asked. We also have the 3/36000 mile warrantee which covers everything bumper to bumper, complete with road side assistance and free loaner car if any work needs to be done. Other than 53K on the odometer and a couple repaired minor scratches the car is literally like brand new. But then again that is THIS Carmax, you may go to one near you and have a completely different experience.

Cool you should be GTG. The Toyota oil is "exactly" this exxonmobil "drive clean" oil just rebadged. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedpr...iption.asp?2224 Fair oil, nothing special, certainly not synthetic Id change it every 3-4K. If you live in a very cold climate I would highly suggest a good synthetic like either Mobil 1 or Amsoil

you want a real Acura that is "sporty" then get this one. http://www.dupontregistry.com/search/srDet...6-3F6E786AE098} Otherwise for someone your parents age especially there is no way you can beat the Lexus. We just bought a 1999 ES300 equipped with every available option had 53K miles on it, popped valve cover just to make sure it wasn't sludged and it looked very clean, the rest of the car inside and out literally looks like brand new, New tires, new brakes on all 4s, all belts brand new, new battery. we paid 17K complete with 3/36,000 mile warrantee that covers everything but oil changes. Im extremely impressed with the car myself, very well made, outstanding ride comfort, quiet, easily seems to me like a 40+K car that we just stole for 17K. If as was said here the 02+ are even better, then I dont how you could posibly go wrong with the Lexus

Black

LOL, you're hilarious, this catch phrase means absolutely NOTHING. IF Toyota is saying that they MAKE the oil its a flat out LIE. Is it made specifically for nothing but Toyota vehicles? please explain to me how any oil can be specifically made for any specific vehicle? Toyota uses the very same materials, same gasket materials, same everything as any other car manufacturer. What about 1970 Toyotas? 1980, 1990, 4,6,8 cyl? so just how "specific" can it be? So if you use this oil in your Dodge it will what? Explode~~~BOOM! :o Get a grip dude. Oh and upon further investigation the so called "Genuine Toyota motor oil" GTMO is actually rebadged exxonmobil "Drive clean oil" my bad, :whistles: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedpr...iption.asp?2224 Here is how it tested against several other motor oils, (not so good IMO) http://www.tripleplate.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=7977 How about the MSDS straight from Exxonmobil stating they make Genuine Toyota oil, that be good enough for ya? http://www.host1.exxonmobil.com/psims/psims.aspx K now this is their "Drive clean" oil MSDS sheet, look at sect 9 "PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES" note they are both EXACTLY the same in every respect. http://www.host1.exxonmobil.com/psims/psims.aspx Hmmm looks like same dang address probably wont got to it, might need to click the information in yourself, under product just put "Toyota" select the top one of the 3 that come up , then do it again and put in "Drive clean" then select the first 10W40W under Drive clean oil, the MSDS is EXACTLY the same for both. " Now the MSDS for the so called "Genuine Toyota Motor oil" K I think we can lay the GTMO is really rebadged Exxonmobil oil to rest. It is nothing but fair to decent petroleum based oil. Don't forget your "Genuine" Toyota oil filter which is made by "Nippon" Your Genuine Toyota spark plugs that are made by Denso, these are precisely the very same oil filters and plugs made by these manufacturers just rebadged and with a higher price. If you want to pay more for the EXACT same product simply because it has the word "Toyota" on it, that is of course your prerogative. Like Mburn stated its is nothing but a marketing ploy and you fell for it Hook line and drainplug. :P

They are pretty much identical, both definitely made by Exxonmobil, and most certainly not any magic elixir. You want the best oil for your lexus then use Synthetic, if you like that Toyota oil then buy Mobils top product Mobil 1, not that cheap Toyota petroleum stuff. Personally I like Amsoil, but Mobil 1 is very good also, especially if you are changing it in less than 7500 Miles then it makes no difference, both are vastly superior to ANY petroleum oil.

Not much can be said about this but BULLSHYTE BTW your Genuine Toyota motor oil is nothing but rebadged Exxon Superflo oil.

http://www.getahelmet.com/tech/syntheticoil/ http://www.exxonmobil.com/Corporate/Newsro...nr_050104_1.asp http://anyboard.net/autos/cars/cars/posts/831.html Toyota is not the only ones having this oil sludge problem related to higher oil drain rec. using PETROLEUM oil http://intrepidhorrorstories.blogspot.com/ http://www.datatown.com/chrysler/ Seems like car manufacturers would eventually pull their head outa their !Removed! and recommend 5-7K Oil drains using "Synthetic oil" ONLY. Petroleum based oil simpy can NOT handle the higher cylinder head temps and various other newer engine designs.

Not so, Iv seen many test that very clearly shows that synthetic oil gives greater protection especially after just 1000-2000 miles when Petroleum oils have already lost quite a bit of their properties, especially in these engines since they have such hot cylinder head temps which has little to no effect on the synthetic and breaks down the petroleum fast. This fast break down is VERY pronounced in "Multigrade" petroleum oils, (You know, exactly the oil recommended and no doubt what you use 5W30W) This is because 5W30W "Petroleum" oil starts its life as a 5W base oil, then large polymer chains are ADDED to get the 30W rating, those chains break down FAST especially in an engine with such high cylinder head temps, which produces small chains with an open electron charge at the ends. These ends attract grim and form SLUDGE. Here is an interesting fairly non biased (not done by some Amsoil or Mobil salesman) post from some NASA Engineer "Tribologist" that I think explains it well enough. http://forums.yellowworld.org/archive/index.php/t-1136.html Also that first 15-30 secs when you start your car up in the morning especially if it is cold outside is where you get allot of your engine wear, your internal parts are reciprocating with minimal lubrication that was left from your oil residue the last time you shut off your engine. This is where synthetic becomes important. The residue of synthetic has FAR superior lubrication and viscosity properties than regular oil, allowing more protection until the pump brings more to the top of the engine. Second, synthetic maintains viscous properties at far lower temperatures than any petroleum based oil and will be pumped to the top of the engine and flow through those journals much quicker. I personally get approx. 1 Mpg more using Amsoil 5W30W than I did using whatever petroleum based oil that was in it when I got it. I get 1 Mpg more in my Jeep also using synthetic. That's not much but doesn't hurt, saves me maybe $2-3 a month in fuel tops. But in the 6 months life cycle of the oil that's about $12-18 to help offset the cost of synthetic, Plus IF I were to use petroleum I would never let it go past 3k for an oil change, with synthetic I have no worries going to 5K at all. You will notice Im not saying let the oil go to 12-25K miles, just only WHAT THE OWNERS MANUAL RECOMMENDS which is 5-7500, which as far as im concerned in these vehicles is too far for petroleum oil, the oil simply can not handle the heat these engines put out. I have also come to the almost obvious conclusion that one of the main problems that these 3400+ people with engine failure due to Oil gelling is that these people most likely are thinking that they are doing everything exactly right, many probably think that they are not putting hard miles on their engine so opt for up to a 7K+ oil drain interval that the OWNERS MANUAL recommends, probably using whatever "Bulk" multigrade oil the dealership is throwing in there, running it for at least 6K up to maybe 8K miles then a couple 1000 miles down the road when that petroleum oil is clogging those drain holes from the cylinder heads thus making it "appear" as though they are as much as a full 1 quart LOW, they put in another quart which is Overfilling the engine which just makes matters way worse, causing the oil to froth and oxidize way quicker. That multigrade petroleum oil was actually history 4-5K miles back. So technically since I spend on average $45-52 for an oil change, (I buy the oil and filter) then take it to Carmax (They have certified mechanics not the $6 help you get at jiffylube) which charges $29 for a change and $21 if you bring your own, I can also usually within that 6 months get a coupon in the mail for $5-10 off an oil change that I keep and put aside, so usually $15 or so is what I spend so I don't have to screw with oil disposal, I also stand right there and watch to make sure everything is done right. The Amsoil & Filter are $32.50. ($4.50x5 +$10) A normal (petroleum)oil change comes to be just under $32 and is good for 3K MAX. IMO That's about 3-31/2 months. so $64 for 6 months. I if you call it that "Let my synthetic go" for 5-6K which is 6-7months which is extremely excessive for synthetic & I guarantee my Amsoil with 5K on it is performing much better, is protecting & CLEANING my engine better, than the petroleum oil is the day after you put it in. Regular petroleum oil change $64 for 6 months Amsoil for 6-7 months is $45-52 THEN I save approx. $12-18 in fuel cost using synthetic for 6-7months. lets say an average of $15 savings from the $52 oil change comes out to approx. the equivalent of $37 compared to the guaranteed $64 I would spend on petroleum based oil. You know when you first put in that fresh (petroleum) oil how your car sounds and runs? real smooth and sweet for the first few days, well my car keeps that fresh oil change sound and feel throughout the whole 6 months, because my oil is not breaking down nearly as much every mile I drive. Ever wonder why everyone clearly states emphatically to never put synthetic in your brand new car with 0 miles on it? It is because petroleum breaks down and does does NOT protect your engine even close to as well as synthetic, the rings will take a long time to "seat", what causes the rings to seat? metal on metal engine WEAR. So run petroleum oil for the first 500 miles then drain it out change oil filter, put in synthetic and your GTG. That fact alone should clue you in on how much better Synthetic oil protects your engine, regardless of drain intervals. As you can see I would actually spend MORE $$ to run petroleum based oil since there is no way I would trust any multigrade petroleum in this engine much past 3K miles but I have no problems at all trusting synthetic oil to 5-6K which is well within recommended drain intervals. This whole discussion reminds me of some Religion Vs Reality debate, kinda funny actually. We have the religious (petroleum users) on one side preaching out of that old bible, "believing" and having "faith" in that old petroleum oil. Then the Atheist (synthetic users) simply going by common sense and empirical evidence and scientific fact that quite clearly is on their side. I know what I know, others believe what they believe. B)

That picture is of a 1989 Corolla which does not have this problem of the oil not draining back down into the oil pan properly, nor does it have the very high cylinder head temps. Show me a pic of a 1997 Camry with 300,000 miles on it with 5K drain times with standard petroleum oil and point will be noted. Until then I still say you are much better off running 100% synthetic and draining every 5K or so, synthetic actually CLEANS your engine as you run, does NOT break down, has very little if any oxidation within 7500 miles. Petroleum oil starts to break down within 5 min after fresh oil change. The cylinder head temps on this engine reach over 260deg, that WILL break down petroleum based oil, that temp will not even effect 100% synthetic oil. Granted if you are meticulous with your oil changes doing them every 3K miles odds are very good you wont have any problems anyway, even though that petroleum oil after just 3K miles on it has no where near its original protection/properties, but that still doesn't change the fact that 100% synthetic is a FAR superior oil that all but alleviates the possibility of sludge forming in the first place. You cant have a sludge problem with an oil that doesn't break down or oxidize. Thus doing an oil change in the "recommended" 5-7500 mile intervals are not a problem, and are not anymore expensive at all since you can safely get more than 7500 miles out of that oil without any problem regardless of your driving conditions & habits. I fail to see why this is even a debatable issue. Im actually quite surprised that Toyota just doesn't come right out and recommend synthetic oil be used. Then of course there is the other extreme which is basically NO oil changes at all with Synthetics, or at most every 50K+ miles like this. http://www.synlube.com/testcars.htm Here is another independent test done on Synthetics, so far they have only completed the Mobil 1 part, and probably about 1/2 way through the Amsoil part. Currently it is hard to say, but Amsoil seems to be a bit better at the 9000 mile mark, time will tell. But either one is FAR superior to what a top quality Petroleum based oil would register, that test would probably end by the 3000 mile mark. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html Synthetic>Petroleum