The Best & Only Intake That Works. $25-40usd

[Toysrme]

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:

Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.

Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot / Auto store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.

1) Drill / grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange

2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)

3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Goop/Epoxy/Whatever the hose barb in

4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on

5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM

6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it

7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY

8) Reconnect the AFM

9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-!Removed!. Then replace it.

This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.

Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.

Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.

(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.

You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous posts on that.

[norbertk]

Can you do that to my car?

[SKperformance]

That is the worst way to mod an intake and always causes problems by throwing a intake system drawing in engine bay air you should know that.

[dcfish]

That is the worst way to mod an intake and always causes problems by throwing a intake system drawing in engine bay air you should know that.

HMMMMMM, No CAI ???

[SnesleyWipes]

Oh my! BTW, what is that orange filter you have up top there?

[steviej]

Oh my! BTW, what is that orange filter you have up top there?

I reckin that there be a FRAM Extra Guard with SureGrip. :whistles:

[SnesleyWipes]

Oh my! BTW, what is that orange filter you have up top there?

I reckin that there be a FRAM Extra Guard with SureGrip. :whistles:

Funny location. Thats alotta moddin there! Sweeet..

[SKperformance]

Oil filter relocation kit.

[Toysrme]

No. No CAI. In an engine bay like ours, without exhaust anywhere near the driver's side of the engine bay, which is large & open - there is no point for a CAI.

Hot air escapes the bottom of the engine bay, leaving no real point in sectioning off an intake.

You also get into that adding a pod filter in the "gills", and general fender area only gains a few degrees cooler air when the car is moving - which also results in cooler engine bay temps. Measure that against the increased pressure drop (& complexity if you're using hard pipe instead of crappy flex stuff) by the longer intake, and you wind up with nothing really constructive.

You wind up going from no inches of water with an open filter, to several with most CAI's. That's restrictive.

Then you get past CAI's into ram-airs. They're only able to provide miniscule amounts of positive pressure. (We're talking 2 on average for one that works. For the great ones, centered on the airflow split on the car driving @ 60mph, *maybe* up to 7in/water)

Even then, that's *only* at part throttle!

Please don't confuse in/water to psi... 7in/water of pressure = about 0.25284 psi.

2in/water = 0.07224psi.

(If you can't hit the red dot, a ram/cai isn't doing 50% what it could be!)

If you think I'm wrong, then do something to prove it. Watch the resistance of your own temp sensor, and make a quick manometer to check with. I spent about a month this time last year doing nothing but building every different style intake I know possible. *The* only single intake I can think of that I didn't try would be a huge pipe, multiple entry ram air.

Everything else, filter less, CAI's, ram airs, short & direct intakes. Even two air-flow meter bypass's. They don't change much one way to another.

Yes, it's some kind of Fram filter. Until I get done "playing" with flushing my crankcase out, I'd rather spend $2 a filter, than waste my few Denso filters I have left. The nearest Toyota dealer with good prices is 30-40 miles away. Cheap > high end Denso when it comes to flushing. ;)

I made a thread about it awhile back. Takes like... $5-10-15 to make one, opposed to like $30-45 to buy one.

& nothing is "taped" minus the old FPR VSV wires.

The filter mount is bolted to the engine using an M7 1.25mm 10mm hex bolt.

[SKperformance]

I have removed about 4 short ram intakes for 1mz and 3vz's which all suffered from bad judgment on their owners part . They all got into the hype of the people selling them and once it was installed the noise just made them feel sporty which also came from reduced vacuum which increased the throttle response. Problem is when the heat from under the engine which is only removed when the car is moving at a high rate of speed causing carbon issues in the intake track especially with the throttle body iacv and egr. Once that began their fuel mileage also went to hell as well. After reinstalling the OEm box minus the baffle they all began to run much stronger with greater hp and gas mileage . I have never seen a short arm work on any car. Just simple physics, sorry.

[Toysrme]

Whatever sk, I think you don't know what you're talking about LoL! That, right up there is still *the* best intake possible without stuffing in n2o, or air into it. Like I said, if you don't believe it, make a manometer, and start reading temps. The bay isn't that hot to begin with in that area, and when the car is moving, it's not hot at all.

[justin97]

Whatever sk, I think you don't know what you're talking about LoL! This is still *the* best intake possible without stuffing an n2o, or shoving air into it. Like I said, if you don't believe it, make a manometer, and start reading temps. The bay isn't that hot to begin with in that area, and when the car is moving, it's not hot at all.

ui removed the stock tube from the stock air box that runs into the fender and under the fuse box...and i lost time at the strip......

[Toysrme]

So you're going ......

And yet you didn't build what's in this thread did you?

[ArmyofOne]

So you're going ......

And yet you didn't build what's in this thread did you?

I totally agree with you Brandon, a CAI is pointless if you cant put it under the center of the car. its also dangerous for your engine and makes going through any water of considerable depth impossible. dont drive at freeway speeds in the rain either. If you really want a true CAI thats BEST, remove your hood and stic the filter straight up off a pipe in the center of the engine bay going straight down to the TB. It woudl look rediculous, but it would be functional.

your right SK, it is simple physics. Simple physics says (to me and my experience and education from VoTech school) that the less distance air has to travel to get to the chamber the better. This intake, has 2 small bends, a CAI will have 3 or 4 extreme angles, in addition to having to travel an additional 2 ft. to get to the combustion chamber. the air will have to flow UP as well, and without a turbo this is VERY INEFFICIENT.

like i said...physics.

[dcfish]

So you're going ......

And yet you didn't build what's in this thread did you?

I totally agree with you Brandon, a CAI is pointless if you cant put it under the center of the car. its also dangerous for your engine and makes going through any water of considerable depth impossible. dont drive at freeway speeds in the rain either. If you really want a true CAI thats BEST, remove your hood and stic the filter straight up off a pipe in the center of the engine bay going straight down to the TB. It woudl look rediculous, but it would be functional.

your right SK, it is simple physics. Simple physics says (to me and my experience and education from VoTech school) that the less distance air has to travel to get to the chamber the better. This intake, has 2 small bends, a CAI will have 3 or 4 extreme angles, in addition to having to travel an additional 2 ft. to get to the combustion chamber. the air will have to flow UP as well, and without a turbo this is VERY INEFFICIENT.

like i said...physics.

Explain why toyota engineers have put cai's in all of there vehicles and not short intakes ? Do you really think you are out engineering the best of the best ?

[SKperformance]

Actually a good cold air system can be made with only 2 90 degree angles .

A short arm intake is worthless , but hey ,you wil see.

but don't you have a turbo'd engine?

[ArmyofOne]

Actually a good cold air system can be made with only 2 90 degree angles .

A short arm intake is worthless , but hey ,you wil see.

but don't you have a turbo'd engine?

I dont, Brandon does, his turbo comes in and out constantly. LOL, every time he tears his engine apart, his setup changes. he could have that turbo back on there and retuned in a day if he wants.

My engine isnt turboed...yet...BUT, i am running an 11.0:1 compression ratio...on a STOCK intake. because i havent found anything less restrictive, or that gives more than a modest gain for the money.

Oh, and a 90 degree angle is VERY restrictive.

[justin97]

Actually a good cold air system can be made with only 2 90 degree angles .

A short arm intake is worthless , but hey ,you wil see.

but don't you have a turbo'd engine?

I dont, Brandon does, his turbo comes in and out constantly. LOL, every time he tears his engine apart, his setup changes. he could have that turbo back on there and retuned in a day if he wants.

My engine isnt turboed...yet...BUT, i am running an 11.0:1 compression ratio...on a STOCK intake. because i havent found anything less restrictive, or that gives more than a modest gain for the money.

Oh, and a 90 degree angle is VERY restrictive.

u would need to draw air from the bumper area to make it a littel bit effective.. i played around with a tacoma short intake on the car once, and found out with a little movin stuff around, there was aslight increase with the filter element down under the bumper .

i always heard 6-12 inches away from the throttle body was best for the mas/maf

[dcfish]

Actually a good cold air system can be made with only 2 90 degree angles .

A short arm intake is worthless , but hey ,you wil see.

but don't you have a turbo'd engine?

I dont, Brandon does, his turbo comes in and out constantly. LOL, every time he tears his engine apart, his setup changes. he could have that turbo back on there and retuned in a day if he wants.

My engine isnt turboed...yet...BUT, i am running an 11.0:1 compression ratio...on a STOCK intake. because i havent found anything less restrictive, or that gives more than a modest gain for the money.

Oh, and a 90 degree angle is VERY restrictive.

u would need to draw air from the bumper area to make it a littel bit effective.. i played around with a tacoma short intake on the car once, and found out with a little movin stuff around, there was aslight increase with the filter element down under the bumper .

i always heard 6-12 inches away from the throttle body was best for the mas/maf

Hey Toys, Why not do this mod to a stock intake ?