norbertk

Try pulling your 15A EFI fuse for 10 or more seconds. If that doesn't work I'll go digging in the factory manual

I put in the new actuator, and still no dice. I tested the actuator, and it accelerates/decelerates fine, unlike my other one. I also unhooked the battery from my car hoping it might clear any error codes from the CC ECU. I'm still under the impression the light failure sensor is still causing it from operating correctly.

Got it, Thank YOU! I'll let you know how it goes.

The actuator is located in the engine compartment, to the right of the engine. It's housed in a black plastic box, and is also linked to the throttle position sensor. I hooked up the actuator to my battery, and it clicked, but the control arm did not move. I can send you over the FSM if you'd like. I also searched ebay and found no 1993 model actuator, the only ones there were for '94. I'm going to have to try a scrap yard by O'Hare sometime next week. Are you an airbus driver?

Cruise Control Actuator is not working.. Dealer wants $1100 for it.. Anyone know a good online scrap yard?

In regards to airbus's post, while the bulbs themselves might not interfere with it, it triggers the Light failure sensor, which in turn won't allow the cruise control system to work. Further, I replaced the stop light switch today and unfortunately no dice, which brings me back to either the light failure sensor or the wiring harness's for the stop lights. I'll have to play around with those later and I'll report back. Unfortunately there is no way to get around the stop light switch failure, as it also controls the clutch lock. I'll also check the cruise control ECU terminals and see if anything turns up. Unless there is a way to also bypass the light failure sensor. :cries: Here are the two diagrams to show what's going on:

I've been trying to fix the endless list of electrical malfunctions that have been plaguing my car. Starting with my Light Failure Indicator. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood, and all are OK. I went in and replaced all bulbs on the taillights and the high mount, as well as cleaned all the connectors with contact cleaner. I tested the voltages, and see no significant interruptions. I took apart the Light failure sensor, as well as cleaned the wire harness, and still haven't had any success. I attempted to inspect the stop light switch under the dash, but couldn't for the life of me get it unconnected. I'm afraid that if I remove the brake pedal spring and the nut, I'll screw it up. Why did they have to mount it there?? In any case, it only goes on once I actually press down on the brake pedal, so I'm figuring it's the root of the problem. I could take my cluster out and just remove the damn bulb, but this might lead into my second problem with the cruise control. I've gone through the signal checks with the cruise control, and all diagnosis are normal. While driving it indicates that it's functioning normally. I'm hoping that the stoplight switch problem is resulting in the cruise control not working, per the wiring diagram. I also jumped the Te1 and E1 and got a flashing O/D light, which I've gathered is the speed sensor. If that was malfunctioning I wouldn't be able to get a speed on my speedometer, no? I'll try and kill myself tomorrow over the stupid stop switch and hopefully it will solve this. Any other suggestions would be helpful.

Yes, just pop it out from the bottom, and there is a wire for the heater which you just unplug.

I went in again and checked all the sockets with my ohm meter. All the sockets were reading about 55 ohms, except for one which read about 45. I cleaned it thorougly and still same read. The indicator is still on, and it's really starting to aggrivate me.

I mean originally, it went on because my license plate lights were out, so I replaced those, and the indicator still goes on. I'll try playing with it later tomorrow.

Will it update the indicator while I tap them? Because it only goes on once I press down on my brake pedal.

I found a few topics, so I went in and changed all the bulbs, but the indicator keeps coming on. I changed the brake light (inside), license plate lights, and all bulbs in the tail. Do I need to unplug my battery for a little bit, or any other suggestions?

Seems like you got ripped off, a universal oxygen sensor is < $40, and wire splicing takes 2 seconds. No need for diagnostic obviously. You could have done it yourself.

I had my mechanic replace it for me and my heating/hvac is back to normal, except seems like 80- > HOT doesn't deliver much warmness. If I wanted to fix my speed sensor how would I go about doing that?

Is it just me or are there color differences from blue to white on the backlighting?

Can you do that to my car?

Would the speed sensor have anything to do with cruise control?

The motor... I floor the accelerator and it just boggs down... No slipping at all it goes, but crawls... then it gets the power back and its back to normal.... seems like it happens when the car sits for a long period of time... Same with my ES... you have to let it warm up.

Thanks for the reply.. anyway you can find the page with a diagram of where the o2 sensor is so I can replace it? Thanks.. Also the code 61, is this something serious I should have looked at? I purchased a Bosch premium oxygen sensor part 12031, anyone verify this is the correct one?

I pulled Code 28 from the CEL, and the o/d was also blinking code 16 it seemed.. here is the video of it.. http://www.flythevirtualsky.com/video.wmv According to other posts, Code 28 is the main O2 sensor. Would this explain why my heating/hvac is screwed up?

Why is it covered in tape?

Like this?

I'm quite aware of the 9 million posts on how to do it, could it possibly be I don't want to take the risk and screw up my ECU?

About a month ago my CEL went on while driving down a road. After a few hours it went off, but then I started to notice something strange with my HVAC. Even if I had the temperature set at 72* it would still blow the same hot air all the way through 85*. If it goes below 72 it slowly becomes cold, then only at COLD it turns cold. Another thing I've noticed is if my car is sitting in idle it will jump up to about 900-1000 rpm. Felt like the air compressor going on during the summer. Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm trying to find someone with an OBDI reader, but until I find out the severity I'm not gonna pay $150 for a diagnostic fee. Thought I would also mention the engine temperature is normal. I have a 93 Es300.

To follow up on the sunroof discussion, if I have a cracked glass piece, how painful is it to install a new/used unit?