Sufficient Cabin Heating In Winter?

[W201 sweden]

Having tested three different LS 400 (I still want one...), I have to ask:

is the heating sufficient in cold climat?

In the last Lexus I tested (a -95 LS 400) the air from the upper outlets was only luke warm, and even the floor nozzles were far from hot.

I had set temp to "HOT", turned the AC "OFF", and tried both "AUTO" and arrows "front" + "floor". The engine was warm, needle in the

middle of scale, and I tried all fan speeds, with little difference in air temp.

The winters in Sweden are cold, -20 degrees C are not uncommon even in the southmost parts. (I guess climat here is similar to Canada's.)

If this car was OK, an LS will not cut it for me. I'd hate to pass on Lexus just b/c unsufficient heating! Or do you who drive Lexus in cold climat have different experiences?

/Alexander - still in a MB...

[VBdenny]

My LS has always put out great heat, never a problem. Now my AC is another issue.

[W201 sweden]

In that case, does anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

I consider to buy the car in spite of the heating problem, but it would be nice to know what cost there is to it.

/Alexander

[wwest]

Because of a unique, patented, design it is fairly difficult to get warm airflow from the dash and/or the windshield defog/demist/defrost outlets. Don't know about the MY you refer but the 92 has a push pull cable through the firewall to operate the hot water control flow valve. As you move the coltrols from max hot to max cold you should be able to observe the control valve being moved full travel.

[jc19907]

Because of a unique, patented, design it is fairly difficult to get warm airflow from the dash and/or the windshield defog/demist/defrost outlets. Don't know about the MY you refer but the 92 has a push pull cable through the firewall to operate the hot water control flow valve. As you move the coltrols from max hot to max cold you should be able to observe the control valve being moved full travel.

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I submitted a similar post which is also currently on this forum. My heat acts the same way. However, with careful review and curiosity. I believe I have the simple solution. Start the car and let it warm up completely - keep the heat and fan off. Then turn on to MAX HOT - no A/C. Use any vent you like - recirculated air or not. Mine burned me out of the car today. This is a simple measure of being patient and knowing your car.

Additionally, in my observation, I've noticed that the HVAC system will give you gradual cool - heat in just a minute or two after starting the car - this would explain the inadequate heat many are getting. The valve mentioned in the response above must be responsible for all of this. I'm sure that is in place to keep your cars heat where it should be upon winter start up - in the engine, not the cabin. So, let your car warm up and then turn on your system. The engine will heat up faster too.

[blake918]

Personally, I've never been impressed with the HVAC system in my LS. The air is always ice cold, but the fan just doesn't blow hard enough for my liking (certain American cars we've had turn the interior to ice if you left them on high too long). My heater goes from very hot to tepid at stop lights; I've read a few good suggestions on where to start with this problem. Hopefully they'll pan out!

[monarch]

My '91 LS400 puts out scalding hot heat from ALL vents.

I recorded the following measurements on a 45 degree F morning with the controls set in the Vent, outside air, and maximum heat positions:

157 degrees F from drivers side dash vent: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/dash.jpg

148 degrees F from the center dash vent

140 degrees F from the windshield defroster vent (controls set in the Defroster position andwith the AC compressor running)

121 degrees F from the rear console vent that directs heat to the rear seats.

In the summer months the center dash vent temp is a truly frigid 32 degrees F

LS's also have powerful blower motors so the velocity of the air coming out the vents

is very high (if none of the air filters in the system are clogged)

[michjm]

From Minnesota (nearby Canada). I have driven my car at -40C, it kept warm without a problem. It started hard, but once running it was fine. I have probably driven my car at least a hundred times at the -20C temperature you reference and never had a complaint about the heater.

If the car you looked at didnt produce heat, something was wrong with it.

[1990LS400]

Sweden's problem sounds like a classic case of a bad thermostat. It could be stuck in the open position or opening prematurely.

I used a grill cover and a block heater on the W123 Mercedes (1979 240D) I drove through all of the 1980's.

If I lived a lot further north, I would consider doing something similar on the LS. Currently a block heater is a $232 (Canadian) option on an LS430. I loved the block heater on our Mercedes - nothing like starting off on a cold winter's day with the engine already at operating temperature and the heater putting out it's maximum amount of heat.

[Jim2shou]

Sweden's problem sounds like a classic case of a bad thermostat. It could be stuck in the open position or opening prematurely.

I used a grill cover and a block heater on the W123 Mercedes (1979 240D) I drove through all of the 1980's.

If I lived a lot further north, I would consider doing something similar on the LS. Currently a block heater is a $232 (Canadian) option on an LS430. I loved the block heater on our Mercedes - nothing like starting off on a cold winter's day with the engine already at operating temperature and the heater putting out it's maximum amount of heat.

I had the same problem on my 95 LS400. My mechanic said to check my anti-freeze level and sure enough it was low. After adding more water & anti-freeze the problem was solved. Nice and warm now! :)