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Oil Types 10w30 Or 5w30 On Ls 96?


apezam

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On my new "old" ls 96 all the records show that previous owner used 10W30 engine oil. Is that OK?

I thought that correct oil type is 5W30.

Please advise.

R.

I personally use MOBIL 1 5W30. The 5W30 should get marginally better fuel economy. I also have a 96 LS.

HUMBLETO

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We live in Michigan.

Where do you live Humbleto?

R.

On my new "old" ls 96 all the records show that previous owner used 10W30 engine oil. Is that OK?

I thought that correct oil type is 5W30.

Please advise.

R.

I personally use MOBIL 1 5W30. The 5W30 should get marginally better fuel economy. I also have a 96 LS.

HUMBLETO

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On my new "old" ls 96 all the records show that previous owner used 10W30 engine oil. Is that OK?

I thought that correct oil type is 5W30.

Please advise.

R.

I use 5W30 in mine (that's what the owners manual suggests, but says 10W30 is OK). Is it regular dino oil or synthetic?

:cheers:

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The previous owner used regular deno oil

R.

On my new "old" ls 96 all the records show that previous owner used 10W30 engine oil. Is that OK?

I thought that correct oil type is 5W30.

Please advise.

R.

I use 5W30 in mine (that's what the owners manual suggests, but says 10W30 is OK). Is it regular dino oil or synthetic?

:cheers:

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The manual states certain temp. ranges and driving conditions for use of either 5w or 10w.

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  • 1 month later...

Either mult-grade is just fine. At normal running temperature the engine will not know the difference. At start-up a gentle argument could be made that the 5W reaches all the oiling points in the engine faster, and that fuel mileage will be slightly, although not measureably, better.

I use Mobil 1 5W-30 year round and always will, regardless of the mileage the engines achieve.

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the reason that 10w30 is used in ars with hher mileage is because after time the cylinders begin to wear due to the constant friction even though you couldnt tell the 10w30 is thicker so its supposed to fill in the lost shavings thereby reducing the blowby into the crankcase

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I'm shifting over to mobile 1 synthetic now too, with 101k miles on a 95. What's this I hear that you can't go back to dino oil after running synthetic or it will make your piston's go bad? Mine only ran on synthetic for like 15 miles, and it's at the dealership right now having the oil pan replaced "stipped out thread on oil pan, walmart paying for fix". But the dealership will replace the oil with their regular stuff. I'm gonna have that dumped tomorrow for mobile 1 again. Am I gonna wreck the engine with this stuff and in this scenario?

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Mobil 1, and most synthetics, are perfectly compatible with dino oils, and you can switch back and forth without problems.

15W-50 is far too heavy a viscosity for these engines, considering how tight the clearances are. There is no need to use anything other than 5W-30 or 10W-30.

If you had a clapped out old British sports car with a tractor engine you could use 15W-50.

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I’m using mobile1 synthetic 10W30 but I’m thinking about switching to 15W50. Is 15W50 better for hot climates like Phoenix? Are there any benefits or drawbacks for using such a grade?

I'd say 15-50 would be OK to use IF you can come up with evidence that Toyota / Lexus approves of the use of oils thicker than 10W-30 in Lexus V8's sold in other troptical and desert climates of the world. Example: Do the owners manuals of Lexus V8's sold in Saudi Arabia state that oils thicker than 5W-30 or 10W-30 are OK to use?

In any case, cooling system care is far more important to engine life in hot climates than choice of oil viscosity. Just look over this forum and you'll find dozens and dozens of posts from owners who admit driving with the temp gauge reading higher than normal and not getting seriously worried until the gauge needle rose to the Red Zone. These owners fail to understand how they are shaving tens to hundreds of thousands of miles off their engine life's potential by driving with even moderately elevated temperature gauge readings. They also fail to understand elevated readings are caused by negelected preventive maintenance of the cooling system and failure to use factory original parts and coolant when servicing the system. They also fail to understand the reason no car care websites emphasize the importance of maintaining the cooling system in factory original operating condition is because to do so requires the use of factory original parts and fluids, not aftermarket parts and fluids. Since car care websites are financed by sales of aftermarket parts, filters, lubes and fluids, it would be self defeating for them to stress the importance of maintaining the cooling system in factory original operating condition. So they don't and in this way the Asian car owners are kept dumbed down instead of educated by American car care websites.

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I think I’m going to stick to 10W30 for the time being.

Speaking of cooling system, I’m really amazed at how constant my engine temperature is. It’s always the same regardless of outside temperature; A/C on or off; and load. About 10 days ago, I drove my Lexus to the high country going about 75 mph (more at some times), A/C was on most of the time and the engine temperature never flocculated. Which makes me wonder: does this car know that it was going uphill most of the road from Phoenix to Flagstaff? And my coolant wasn’t even clean at that time.

I believe a constant engine temperature contributes to longer engine life since thermal stresses will be less.

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