rookie03 Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 Has anyone painted the lower cladding pieces to match the body? IM refering to a black 94 es300. Id like some pics if possible, i think it would look good.
NeiLtYmE Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 Has anyone painted the lower cladding pieces to match the body? IM refering to a black 94 es300. Id like some pics if possible, i think it would look good. ← took this pic of my car long while back. but should answer your question
rookie03 Posted November 30, 2004 Author Posted November 30, 2004 That looks good, did you use factory paint codes? How much did you get charged or did you do it by yourself? Did you paint them while it was on the car?
NeiLtYmE Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 lol, bought the car like that. Panels should need to come off inorder to get a perfect coverage. however, if you decide to get it done and have no real experience with body painting, dont touch it. Get it done professionally as it is like getting any other panel painted. Depending on the shop, some may sand it down far enough where you may need to apply paint primer for the polyurethane which i believe that cladding us made of.
lexusk8 Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 rookie03, for a decent professional paint job of the lower cladding to match the rest of the body color, expect to choke up in the range of $800 - $1000 at a reputable body shop, maybe more.
mxl4729 Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 rookie03, for a decent professional paint job of the lower cladding to match the rest of the body color, expect to choke up in the range of $800 - $1000 at a reputable body shop, maybe more. ← i think 800 to 1000 is a little high i had a body kit for an is300 painted last week for 400 bucks from a good body shop around from my house. i took it to 4 different places to get an est and they ranged from 350 to 600. but i went with the one for 400 because they painted a spoiler for me one time and i know they do a good job
rookie03 Posted November 30, 2004 Author Posted November 30, 2004 I know a couple people in the buisness. Thanks for the info
NeiLtYmE Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 300 is good. kinda high but ok i guess. anything more, your over paying. For a professional, this cladding is a no brainer. Pretty quick job too. If your getting that repainted, and have alot of key marks and dings on your door, it would be smart to get those repainted too. i say that since your already paying for the labor to remove the cladding.
SKperformance Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 300 is dirt cheap for a basic job. It needs prep work to sand it down as it being ureathane it needs to have a good amount of flex agent to bend with the panel and not crack off. Second for a good job you need to remove the panels from the car which means taking the insed panels off to loosen the hanger bolts. $300 is the pricce for labour of removal and prep another 350 for paint and 300 for paint application. 700 is a good price anything less and you get what you pay for which includes snading marks ,paint runs, masking lines, fisheyes ,dust in paint ,and the best is insufficent priming and painting causing the finish to flake and chip off with ease of any stone chip
ArmyofOne Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 300 is dirt cheap for a basic job.It needs prep work to sand it down as it being ureathane it needs to have a good amount of flex agent to bend with the panel and not crack off. Second for a good job you need to remove the panels from the car which means taking the insed panels off to loosen the hanger bolts. $300 is the pricce for labour of removal and prep another 350 for paint and 300 for paint application. 700 is a good price anything less and you get what you pay for which includes snading marks ,paint runs, masking lines, fisheyes ,dust in paint ,and the best is insufficent priming and painting causing the finish to flake and chip off with ease of any stone chip ← dont have to remove the inner panels on mine. i can take mine off and take them to a shop to have them painted...in about 15 minutes they canbe fof the car. there are 2 little plughs that cover the scres on the bottom of the driver and passenger doors, and the rest is held on by double sided tape and clips.
SKperformance Posted December 1, 2004 Posted December 1, 2004 you also have a first gen so that is a totally different answer. So it bear no affect on a 94 ES that he has
NeiLtYmE Posted December 1, 2004 Posted December 1, 2004 my apologies, i didnt account for the bumpers that go also become repainted as they are the same color as the cladding
Lex3486 Posted December 1, 2004 Posted December 1, 2004 you also have a first gen so that is a totally different answer.So it bear no affect on a 94 ES that he has ← But isn't it the same on the second gen. also?
SKperformance Posted December 1, 2004 Posted December 1, 2004 i wouldn;t say it was different if it wasn;t their is nothing on a 1st gen that is the same on a 2nd gen except maybe an oil filter and "L"'s
SW03ES Posted December 2, 2004 Posted December 2, 2004 I agree, really shop this and make sure you get it done right. Polyurethane bumpers and mouldings like this are tricky to paint. The paint has to be mixed with flex additives, too little and the paint will chip and flake, too much and the paint will bubble off. Its really a science. I've had a lot of bumpers repainted, and its usually a 50/50 shot whether the repaint lasts more than a couple years. Then there's the whole issue of paint matching. Matching the paint is more than just making the color match, they need to make the peel and look of the new paint match the original paint too. You don't want to have bodywork done on the cheap on a nice car like the Lexus, you're better off just leaving it like it is. I had someone back into my car and got a whole lot of estimates. The estimate I chose was $800 just to repaint the rear bumper...alone. I chose the shop that I felt the most comfortable with, had the highest number of expensive car clients, had the nicest facilities, was the most comfortable with me touring their facility and had the estimator that spent a whole hour with me discussing the intricacies of doing a repaint on a polyeurethane bumper like this.
NeiLtYmE Posted December 2, 2004 Posted December 2, 2004 I agree, really shop this and make sure you get it done right. Polyurethane bumpers and mouldings like this are tricky to paint. The paint has to be mixed with flex additives, too little and the paint will chip and flake, too much and the paint will bubble off. Its really a science. I've had a lot of bumpers repainted, and its usually a 50/50 shot whether the repaint lasts more than a couple years. Then there's the whole issue of paint matching. Matching the paint is more than just making the color match, they need to make the peel and look of the new paint match the original paint too. You don't want to have bodywork done on the cheap on a nice car like the Lexus, you're better off just leaving it like it is. I had someone back into my car and got a whole lot of estimates. The estimate I chose was $800 just to repaint the rear bumper...alone. I chose the shop that I felt the most comfortable with, had the highest number of expensive car clients, had the nicest facilities, was the most comfortable with me touring their facility and had the estimator that spent a whole hour with me discussing the intricacies of doing a repaint on a polyeurethane bumper like this. ← the wonders of insurance. Paying high premiums and all that, its always worth it to find the best body shop and get the most out of money.
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