mxl4729

Nice job. I used a impact gun to get mine off. i was not able to get the cam gears off. made a tool and it just bent. gave up and cut the shield around the water pump to get it off.

this will tell you everything and anything you want to know about AC http://www.volkspage.net/technik/manuaisecatalogos/01/AutomotiveHeatingandAirConditioning.pdf

I have a 97 es300 that has a squeal when turning the wheel. i looked under and it was leaking power steering fluid. one of the lines had rusted at a bend untill it started leaking. cut out the rusted section and replaced it with brake line and some rubber hose. refilled the fluid and it has been fine ever since. mine takes ATF fluid. if u put power power steering fluid instead of ATF it will squel. make sure u use ATF if it take ATF

anything and everything u ever wanted to know about AC and fixing AC http://www.volkspage.net/technik/manuaisecatalogos/01/AutomotiveHeatingandAirConditioning.pdf

I have a 6 disk changer that mounts in the truck out of my 1997 ES300 i would sell. let me know if you are intrested freematt55555@gmail.com

i would say it is just becaue of the cold. now that it is warming up i think u will see it go back. two reasons why it gets bad in the winter Weaker gasoline Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a gal of winter gas as you will on a gal of summer gas. Temp Have a gander at these calculations for a Honda Civic hybrid at 60 MPH in varying ambient temperatures: MPH-----AMBIENT-TEMP-----MPG (US) 60------------95----------52.98 60------------85----------52.62 60------------75----------51.16 60------------65----------49.12 60------------55----------47.22 60------------45----------44.67 60------------35----------43.05 60------------25----------41.54 60------------15----------39.41 60------------05----------38.09 Look at the extremes: the coldest MPG is 28% lower than the warmest.

I did valve guide seals on a 1986 ford ranger V6 a few years back and it took me about 12 hours. Had to use a tool to connect my air compressor to the spark plug hole and keep the cylinder under pressure so the seals could be removed and replaced. All i can say is the job was a huge pain in the !Removed!. the way to tell if it is the rings or the valve guide seals is simple. all you need is some oil and a compression checker. first check the compression in each cylinder and write it down. next add about 3 cap fulls of oil to each cylinder right before you check the compression again. if the number go way up its your rings that have gone bad. if they do not go up then its your valve guide seals. hope this helps Matt

So all the key fobs i had for my 1997 ES300 when bad. The cheepest replacment i could find was 80 bucks. So i figured for 25 i can get a remote start with keyless entry. So i got the Bulldog RS1100 Remote Starter with Keyless Entry http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-RS1100-Remote-Starter-Keyless/dp/B00009WC2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270051118&sr=8-1 Installed the unit using the wireing digram below. The only wire that i did not connect was the DOOR TRIGGER. well i can remote start the car and it will run for 10 seconds then turn off. then it will remote start again and turn off and the alarm will go off. I called tech support and they said the only way to get around this was to use the factor key fob then the remote start. This does not work becuase i no longer have the key fob. anyone have any idea or have a remote start in the lexus ES 300 1997 and up matt http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=18879&MakeID=27 MODEL YEAR(S) ES300 1997 - KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER N/A N/A N/A PART COLOR LOCATION 12 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS STARTER RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS STARTER 2 N/A IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS IGNITION 3 N/A ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A KEYSENSE N/A PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) GREEN (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN/ORANGE (+) or GREEN/BLACK (+) @ WHITE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX POWER LOCK DARK BLUE/WHITE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1 @ ORANGE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX POWER UNLOCK DARK BLUE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1 @ ORANGE PLUG, BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX DOOR TRIGGER RED/WHITE (-) TOP RIGHT SIDE OF FUSEBOX, in 7-PIN PLUG DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay TRUNK RELEASE RED (-), Requires Part #775 Relay @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A HORN GREEN/BLACK (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS TACH GRAY See NOTE *2 WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ BOTTOM OF FUSEBOX FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS WITH UNLOCK ANTI-THEFT N/A EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE *1 THE LOCK AND UNLOCK WIRES ARE ABOUT 18 GAUGE.THEY WILL ONLY TEST BY TURNING THE KEY IN THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER. NOTE *2 ON THE 6 CYLINDER MOTORS USE THE GRAY WIRE LOCATED AT THE IGNITIOR ON A BRACKET, JUST IN FRONT OF THE DRIVERS SIDE STRUT TOWER.THE MODULE SAYS "DENSO" ON IT.

from what i undersdand you can no longer get split boots. the ones that you glue would fail becuase people would get glue in the joint and then it would not seal. the ones that came with hardware would fail becuase people would over tighten them and the boot would split. Thanks. I guess you are right since I found zero with lots of web searching. I'm off to buy "real" boots and learn how to change! I am in the same boat right now. from what i have found 2 boots cost you 50 bucks and a new half shaft is only 75. so i might be worth it to just get the half shaft and save your self the time of cleaning out the cv joint and putting a new boot on. also do you know how to get the axel out? have been reading up on it and it looks like there is a clip but not sure where and how to remove it

Are you serious about gluing the boots ? :o I can't beleive that would last They no longer make the split boot that you could glue together. the axel must be removed and the CV joint seperated so the boot can be changed. I gess my new question is how to get the axel out? I am looking in alldata and it says there is a snapring. were is this snap right and do i need a special tool to get it off

from what i undersdand you can no longer get split boots. the ones that you glue would fail becuase people would get glue in the joint and then it would not seal. the ones that came with hardware would fail becuase people would over tighten them and the boot would split.

I did the timming belt and water pump in my 1997 lexus es 300 myslef and it took me something like 12 hours to do. the problems i ran into was i could not get the cam sprockets off to remove the plate behind them which also covers part of the water pump. I tried eveything to get the sprockets off with no luck. i ended up cutting the cover with a dremel tool so i could get the water pump out. but the studs were so long it hit the frame rail. i had to disconect the motor mounts so i could jack the engine up just enought to slip the water pump out. But i did get it done and it was my first time. just make sure you have a service manual when you did it. If you do not i can email you the info you need to get it done Matt Thanks for the reply Matt. I have the factory service manual, so I think I am good there. Also, I have changed timing belts in the past, just not on this car...in fact, I have not done much of anything on this car. When you did this, did you replace the cam and crank seals too? While I have everything open down there, I want to try and do as much of the little things that I can to avoid any issues in the future. I also planned on the whole weekend to get this done...so I should be good there. Thanks again for the reply. I did not replace any seals. They were not leaking so i left them alone. I did mine about a year ago when my car reached 100k i have put about 30K on with no problems. The only problem i had durring the job was the cam sprockets. i was never able to get them off.

I did the timming belt and water pump in my 1997 lexus es 300 myslef and it took me something like 12 hours to do. the problems i ran into was i could not get the cam sprockets off to remove the plate behind them which also covers part of the water pump. I tried eveything to get the sprockets off with no luck. i ended up cutting the cover with a dremel tool so i could get the water pump out. but the studs were so long it hit the frame rail. i had to disconect the motor mounts so i could jack the engine up just enought to slip the water pump out. But i did get it done and it was my first time. just make sure you have a service manual when you did it. If you do not i can email you the info you need to get it done Matt

I have a 1997 Lexus es300 One of my CV joints seems to be leaking grease around the clamp but the boot has not ripped yet. I think it is early enough that I can change the boot and add more grease OR I can replace the entire half shaft with an aftermarket one The price is about the same for two new boots from Lexus or an a aftermarket half shaft. Does anyone know the quality of aftermarket half shafts? They seem so cheep is the only reason I ask. Has anyone done this job? Do I need any special tools to remove the half shaft?

i under stand the adding grounds and i can see how that will help. but i have a question what is the Voltage Stabilizer? is it a big capacitor or something? does anyone know? can i make one out of something? I have seen them before and thought it was a lot of money for something that might not do anything

well i may try this I found this store on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Curve they have flex pipes and sections of pipe with lots of different bends so u can put together what ever u need. the problem is still the ends and the time it takes to make one. I would need an old one to use as a template so i could still use my car. i will keep my eye out for a used one and if i find it i may do it

Toysrme i like what i see but i have a couple more questions how did u bend your pipe that is one thing i do not have access to also were could i get the flanges to mount them to the headers and were could i get a flex pipe so as not to have the engine brake my headers when i hit the gas I have welded in a couple of cat and removed a couple of cats and welded in a pipe before so i am sure i could do it. Is it realy that much of a HP gain? and if it is y does no aftermarket make one?

u have any pics or info on this y pipe i would love to put the welder to use

do u think it is going to be a problem that i trimed this metal around the water pump? i did not think of it at the time but looking back it seams that the timming belt area is sealed up and now it is no longer becusae i trimed around the water pump

its a lot of work to take off the valve covers. i am not even sure how u get to the rear is that how they do it in the dealer ship? is there any other way?

has anyone goten the waterpump out themselfs?

Not sure about the RX but i have IS rims on my ES and they did not fit with our spacers in the rear. the hole difference from rear to front wheel drive. well i add 3/16 spacers in the rear and got them to fit. i have had them on for over and year and 20000 miles and the wheels have not come off yet. i would not go bigger then 3/16 with out changing the studs though. sory i can not be more help Thanks for the help... how much did you pay for those spacers? like 20 bucks shipped from ebay i got the 3/16 inch ones thats all i needed for my clearence. i added washers till i had eought space then i took them off when i had enought and measured them thats how i came up with the 3/16. again i only put them in the rear i had enought space in the front. but when i turn the wheel all the way i get a little bit of rubbing. spacers might fix that but i would rather not run spacers on the driving wheels of the car

We last week i did the timing belt and water pump. please take a look at my pics i had a lot of problems and to some i found some half !Removed! solutions. like i was unable to get the cam sprocket off so if anyone knows how to do that i would love to know Ok i got to here and could not get the cam sprocket off. i tryed everything i even tryed making a tool pictured below to hold the sprocket but it just bent it up. I have no idea how to get them off and would love to know how any one did it all bent up and it still would not come off so i gave up and cut the cover with my dremell here i start cutting i realy did not want to do this but i had no other idea how to get it out when the waterpump was free it still would not come out becuase the studs are to long and it hits the frame. i had to put wood under the oil pan and jack up the engine a little to wiggle it out to reset this little timingbelt tencher u need to use a press and push the plunger back in and put a alen key in there to hold it

Not sure about the RX but i have IS rims on my ES and they did not fit with our spacers in the rear. the hole difference from rear to front wheel drive. well i add 3/16 spacers in the rear and got them to fit. i have had them on for over and year and 20000 miles and the wheels have not come off yet. i would not go bigger then 3/16 with out changing the studs though. sory i can not be more help

i would like to beleve you but, with out a pic it makes it very hard