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Changing All My Fluids In My Es 300


mxl4729

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I bought my 1997 Lexus es300 with 70000 miles about 6 months ago. It now has 85000 and I think it is time for some service. My plan for the weekend is to do this but I have some questions

1. Change the anti freeze ( should I use the Toyota red or pink antifreeze?)

2.Change the power steering fluid ( using Pennzoil dexron III)

3.Change the tranz fluid by dropping the pan and cleaning the pan out. Putting he pan back on refilling the pan and disconnecting the return. Then starting the car and pumping the old out as I refill it with more Pennzoil dexron III till it comes out clean. ( Does Lexus make a gasket for the pan or should I just use RTV silicone?)

4.Change the differential oil with Pennzoil dexron III

Am I missing anything or should I be doing anything different or using different fluids. Any suggestions from people that have done this stuff before.

thanks matt

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Since you're at the 85K point, you mind as well schedule service for the 90K as soon as you can. You can do that at either a Lexus or Toyota dealership. I prefer Lexus for the quality of the work, all backed up on a one-year warranty should anything go wrong. You also get a free loaner vehicle for 2-3 days, depending on how long it takes for Lexus to finish servicing your car.

Besides the typical fluid changes, the 90K service includes the all-important timing belt and water pump replacement, the most critical items in a Lexus. Be prepared for a large bill in the end, at least 2 grand.

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Since you're at the 85K point, you mind as well schedule service for the 90K as soon as you can.  You can do that at either a Lexus or Toyota dealership.  I prefer Lexus for the quality of the work, all backed up on a one-year warranty should anything go wrong.  You also get a free loaner vehicle for 2-3 days, depending on how long it takes for Lexus to finish servicing your car.

Besides the typical fluid changes, the 90K service includes the all-important timing belt and water pump replacement, the most critical items in a Lexus.  Be prepared for a large bill in the end, at least 2 grand.

Well i am doing all this work my self no money to pay someone else. How long have people let there timing belt go for. Is the ES interference motor because if it is i know it is not worth the risk. If it is not I will just take my chances and weight till the water pump or the timing belt goes

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your 97 is a non-interference so if the TB breaks you are just dead in the water.

My friend just had his 98 Avalon TB and WP done at a good independent and it cost him under $500. If you have this done, the coolant flush can be done at the same time. They got to drain it anyway to do the WP.

Brake fluid is the only other fluid you left out.

Like SK said, stick with what you got now. red....stay red. you don't have the pink cause it just came out.

steviej

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ok i am doing the job this weekend and i will take pic to post when i am done. if anyone else has any suggestions about what i am about to do let me know.

the red pink question only came up because i went to toyta and asked for antifreze for a 97 es and they asked red or pink.

and when i asked for tranz fluid they gave me pennzoil dexron III

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I have a 95ES w/82Khow many quarts of toyota trans fluid should I buy for a drain & refill? I plan to take the car and fluid to my mechanic.

take four, and tell him to give you back what he doesn't use.

You can very easily do this in your driveway and save the money. I posted a thread in the tutorial section with pictures. Think about it before you spend the $50.

steviej

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I have a 95ES w/82Khow many quarts of toyota trans fluid should I buy for a drain & refill? I plan to take the car and fluid to my mechanic.

take four, and tell him to give you back what he doesn't use.

You can very easily do this in your driveway and save the money. I posted a thread in the tutorial section with pictures. Think about it before you spend the $50.

steviej

Thanks, should I have him drop the pan or not necessary. The fluid's not red anymore but not real dirty looking either. I bought car with 37k miles (82k now)and have not changed ever. I think it was done once but not sure.

BTW_ It's just too much PITA for me to do myself. Lexus dealer wanted $80!!

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You have approx 15-17 quarts of ATF in the whole car. Most is in the torque converter, some in pan, and some in the ATF cooler lines. I would suggest a power flush of the whole amount. There is a detailed desccription of which system is better. www.gadgetonline.com I will be doing a power flush next week sometime and refilling with Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

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If you are not going to replace the thermostat or flush the radiator system, then stick with the red stuff. I switched to the pink stuff but I flushed the whole system. Pink is longer life. I would also suggest you flush the brake fluid if it is not bright yellow. (almost cooking oil color). Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water which can rust internals of a brake system. To flush the fluid, it is eaiser with 2 people. Remove 1 tire, then locate the bleeder on the caliper. It's covered with a rubber plug. Then remove the plug and loosen the bleeder. Attach a rubber hose to it. Ask someone to pump the pedal and the fluid will come out. Make sure the resivour does not run empty. Keep it full ALL THE TIME. Pump it a good 6-8 times and tighten the bleeder again and recap it. Repeat for other 3 wheels.

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were is this thread in the tutorial section with pictures?

here it is.

It is a toss up on dropping the pan. If you do, that is easy too. There is no filter, just a screen that has to be cleaned. You will have to replace the pan gasket with a new one and make sure all of the old one comes off. I do not think that is included in the $80 job at the dealer....you might ask them if it is.

As for the power flush....it's is more than $80 and is not a bad idea either if you want to spring for it. A cheaper alternative to get most of the fluid switched over to new stuf would be to do 3-4 drain and fills yourself over the course of the next 1500-2000 miles.

steviej

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were is this thread in the tutorial section with pictures?

here it is.

It is a toss up on dropping the pan. If you do, that is easy too. There is no filter, just a screen that has to be cleaned. You will have to replace the pan gasket with a new one and make sure all of the old one comes off. I do not think that is included in the $80 job at the dealer....you might ask them if it is.

As for the power flush....it's is more than $80 and is not a bad idea either if you want to spring for it. A cheaper alternative to get most of the fluid switched over to new stuf would be to do 3-4 drain and fills yourself over the course of the next 1500-2000 miles.

steviej

thanks for the link. Is it the same deal on my 95ES?

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thanks for the link. Is it the same deal on my 95ES?

It should be, however, the tranny and the diff may have separate drain plugs. On the 02, I could only find 1 plug and I got about 3.5 qts to drain.

steviej

on my 98 the drain for the diff is about 6" behind the front driver side wheel. I know it is a PAIN in the %$^ to loosen due to it being very close to the uni-body

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I would drop the pan and filter every other time put that is me. It is only $24 for a filter and rubber gasket.

The "filter" is actually a washable and reusable fine mesh metal screen that's intended to trap non-magnetic wear particles But the screen almost never gets filled with wear particles unless the car is abused in some way like used for street racing or trailer towing. Therefore, the filter

doesn't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles.

Most of the wear particles are magnetic and these are trapped by the magnets Toyota installs in the bottom of the transmission oil pan. Here again the magnets don't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles unless the car is used for something abusive like street racing or trailer towing.

American car makers don't use magnets in the transmission oil pan or a metal mesh filter screen. Instead, they use a big paper filter to catch the large amount of wear material that is generated from their planned early obsolesence transmissions.

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I would drop the pan and filter every other time put that is me. It is only $24 for a filter and rubber gasket.

The "filter" is actually a washable and reusable fine mesh metal screen that's intended to trap non-magnetic wear particles But the screen almost never gets filled with wear particles unless the car is abused in some way like used for street racing or trailer towing. Therefore, the filter

doesn't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles.

Most of the wear particles are magnetic and these are trapped by the magnets Toyota installs in the bottom of the transmission oil pan. Here again the magnets don't generally need any attention for at least 150,000 miles unless the car is used for something abusive like street racing or trailer towing.

American car makers don't use magnets in the transmission oil pan or a metal mesh filter screen. Instead, they use a big paper filter to catch the large amount of wear material that is generated from their planned early obsolesence transmissions.

I agree about the metal filter since American cars use a felt paper, but so far I have never seen an American car NOT have a magnet in the tranny pan. I have only change fluids since 1986 but all have magnets so far..

Yup, you are correct it is a cleanable filter but for $24 for it and a gasket, my time is worth more.

Good info though. Either way is correct but my OCD wins for me everytime!!!!! :) :)

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